EdatWycliffe

Ken, what dimension wood strip did you use for the fancy rail? The plans call for a 3/16 x 5/32 strip but the parts do not include, and the parts list does not mention, a strip with those dimensions. In fact, the list does not mention a fancy rail at all. The strip included with the kit that is closest to the fancy rail is 3/16 square. Also, did you use a filler aft of BH 16. Sheet 5 of the plans mention a filler strip under the fancy rail, but I can't visualize that it would be needed. Thanks, Ed.

The main topsail yard is constructed and the sail furled.  There are more lines to keep track of – buntlines in addition to sheets and clue lines.  I also added stud sail booms which are not glued in place yet.  I used paper for the iron bands and they are attached to the boom with 28 gauge wire.  So the booms will be attached to the yard by the wire.  I realized that I made a mistake with the top gallant yards in that the clue line must pull the sail clue up behind the sail, not in front; so I fixed both top gallants.
 
Looking ahead, I am very confused about how to tie the main (spanker) sheet to a cleat attached to a block.  I have looked at both Lees’ and Peterseen’s book, but neither shows how to do that.  The FA documentation is no help either. If someone knows, I wish they would explain it to me.  I have plenty of time to figure it out, however.

The fore topmast is installed with its standing rigging.  I like the placement of the fore topmast backstay much better than the main topmast backstay.  Everything went like it was supposed to.   The only hard thing was drilling the fairlead holes in the knightheads.
I plan to install the topgallant masts next, and then work on the jib stay and bowsprit horse.

The cannons and cannon rigging are done and the deck furniture added. The eyes, padeyes and rings need to be added to the deck, but I see a start to masts and rigging soon.
 


 
Rigging the cannons was difficult, but through the trial and error process, I learned a technique for wrapping the blocks and preparing the pulley rigging that I'd like to share. The pictures below reflect the following steps:
 
1. I purchased 3/32 single boxwood blocks from Syren. Using a jeweler's saw with a very fine blade, I scored the groves a little deeper on both sides of the block.
 
2. Cut two pieces of 28 gauge wire each about 1" long. I used black colored Artistic Wire purchased at Michael's. Its has both strength and flexibility.
 
3. Lay each wire on the block and add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the block. (I use Zap medium+ gap-filling formula).
 
4. By hand, bend the wire around each block. At the end of one of the blocks, lay a piece of rigging rope about 5" or 6" long between the wire and the block. ( I used .20mm tan rope I purchased from Syren and was very pleased with the quality.) Leave about 1 1/2 " of rope at one side of the wire and the remaining length on the other side. I first prepared the rope by passing it through a block of bee's wax I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. Add another drop of CA on top of the wire on this side of the block.
 
5. Bend the wire around the block until it goes entirely around the block. Add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the end of the block and press down on the wire with the flat end of a needle nose plier (or other tool) so that the wire lays flat against the end of the block. 
 
6. I then used a #76 drill bit to ream out one of the holes in the block (I chose the hole closest to the wire bend that is furthest away from the end of the wire where the hook will be formed) to make reeving the rope easier. This step may not be necessary.
 
7. Seize the rope on one of the blocks. This block will eventually attach to the bulkhead and the other block will eventually attach to the eyelet on the cannon.
 
8. For, a hook at each at the end of each block. I used a needle nose plier with round ends.
 
9. Reeve the rope through the blocks and add the finished block and tackle assembly to the cannon. I found reeving so much easier of I dipped the end of the rope through a small amount of CA to make the rope stiff.
 

The cannons and cannon rigging are done and the deck furniture added. The eyes, padeyes and rings need to be added to the deck, but I see a start to masts and rigging soon.
 


 
Rigging the cannons was difficult, but through the trial and error process, I learned a technique for wrapping the blocks and preparing the pulley rigging that I'd like to share. The pictures below reflect the following steps:
 
1. I purchased 3/32 single boxwood blocks from Syren. Using a jeweler's saw with a very fine blade, I scored the groves a little deeper on both sides of the block.
 
2. Cut two pieces of 28 gauge wire each about 1" long. I used black colored Artistic Wire purchased at Michael's. Its has both strength and flexibility.
 
3. Lay each wire on the block and add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the block. (I use Zap medium+ gap-filling formula).
 
4. By hand, bend the wire around each block. At the end of one of the blocks, lay a piece of rigging rope about 5" or 6" long between the wire and the block. ( I used .20mm tan rope I purchased from Syren and was very pleased with the quality.) Leave about 1 1/2 " of rope at one side of the wire and the remaining length on the other side. I first prepared the rope by passing it through a block of bee's wax I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. Add another drop of CA on top of the wire on this side of the block.
 
5. Bend the wire around the block until it goes entirely around the block. Add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the end of the block and press down on the wire with the flat end of a needle nose plier (or other tool) so that the wire lays flat against the end of the block. 
 
6. I then used a #76 drill bit to ream out one of the holes in the block (I chose the hole closest to the wire bend that is furthest away from the end of the wire where the hook will be formed) to make reeving the rope easier. This step may not be necessary.
 
7. Seize the rope on one of the blocks. This block will eventually attach to the bulkhead and the other block will eventually attach to the eyelet on the cannon.
 
8. For, a hook at each at the end of each block. I used a needle nose plier with round ends.
 
9. Reeve the rope through the blocks and add the finished block and tackle assembly to the cannon. I found reeving so much easier of I dipped the end of the rope through a small amount of CA to make the rope stiff.
 

The cannons and cannon rigging are done and the deck furniture added. The eyes, padeyes and rings need to be added to the deck, but I see a start to masts and rigging soon.
 


 
Rigging the cannons was difficult, but through the trial and error process, I learned a technique for wrapping the blocks and preparing the pulley rigging that I'd like to share. The pictures below reflect the following steps:
 
1. I purchased 3/32 single boxwood blocks from Syren. Using a jeweler's saw with a very fine blade, I scored the groves a little deeper on both sides of the block.
 
2. Cut two pieces of 28 gauge wire each about 1" long. I used black colored Artistic Wire purchased at Michael's. Its has both strength and flexibility.
 
3. Lay each wire on the block and add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the block. (I use Zap medium+ gap-filling formula).
 
4. By hand, bend the wire around each block. At the end of one of the blocks, lay a piece of rigging rope about 5" or 6" long between the wire and the block. ( I used .20mm tan rope I purchased from Syren and was very pleased with the quality.) Leave about 1 1/2 " of rope at one side of the wire and the remaining length on the other side. I first prepared the rope by passing it through a block of bee's wax I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. Add another drop of CA on top of the wire on this side of the block.
 
5. Bend the wire around the block until it goes entirely around the block. Add a small drop of CA on top of the wire where it lays on the end of the block and press down on the wire with the flat end of a needle nose plier (or other tool) so that the wire lays flat against the end of the block. 
 
6. I then used a #76 drill bit to ream out one of the holes in the block (I chose the hole closest to the wire bend that is furthest away from the end of the wire where the hook will be formed) to make reeving the rope easier. This step may not be necessary.
 
7. Seize the rope on one of the blocks. This block will eventually attach to the bulkhead and the other block will eventually attach to the eyelet on the cannon.
 
8. For, a hook at each at the end of each block. I used a needle nose plier with round ends.
 
9. Reeve the rope through the blocks and add the finished block and tackle assembly to the cannon. I found reeving so much easier of I dipped the end of the rope through a small amount of CA to make the rope stiff.
 

I'ver worked lately to get better at seizing lines for the cannons. While waiting for Syren blocks to arrive, I pulled all the breech line eye bolts and rings I installed in the bulkhead. I should have installed them off deck when I rig the cannons. So now I've complete the breech lines for all 14 cannon. See picture. I will soon face the task of finishing the cannon rigging and from Ken's description, my hands are already shaking. Perhaps I'll take a cannon break and work on the bowsprit and jib boom. Ken's turned out nicely.
 

The last 4 guns have been rigged and installed.  That completes the work on the hull, except for some items used for rigging, such as the channels and sheet horse.  Also, I didn’t add the bow sprit bitts since that determines the final angle of the bow sprit.  So I’m going to have a little private launch party and begin on the bow sprit and the rest of the rigging.

I've been on the high seas for the past few weeks with erratic email and no internet reception. I'm just catching up with the discussion regarding the rigging of the gun carriage. I'll be there soon and much appreciate the inputs. First I need to finish the dead eyes and chain plates (see pics attached). I stepped a faux mast so that the angle of the chainplates was not completely off. After the channels and chainplates,  I'll fine tune the deck furniture. Then, finally, I'll start from the aft and place cannon carriages and deck furniture in that order. It's very nice to be back in the chip yard. Yep, better than being on a real (modern) ship. Ed

I've been on the high seas for the past few weeks with erratic email and no internet reception. I'm just catching up with the discussion regarding the rigging of the gun carriage. I'll be there soon and much appreciate the inputs. First I need to finish the dead eyes and chain plates (see pics attached). I stepped a faux mast so that the angle of the chainplates was not completely off. After the channels and chainplates,  I'll fine tune the deck furniture. Then, finally, I'll start from the aft and place cannon carriages and deck furniture in that order. It's very nice to be back in the chip yard. Yep, better than being on a real (modern) ship. Ed

I've been on the high seas for the past few weeks with erratic email and no internet reception. I'm just catching up with the discussion regarding the rigging of the gun carriage. I'll be there soon and much appreciate the inputs. First I need to finish the dead eyes and chain plates (see pics attached). I stepped a faux mast so that the angle of the chainplates was not completely off. After the channels and chainplates,  I'll fine tune the deck furniture. Then, finally, I'll start from the aft and place cannon carriages and deck furniture in that order. It's very nice to be back in the chip yard. Yep, better than being on a real (modern) ship. Ed

Thanks, Bob, Ken and Gary--appreciate the kind words. Gary, my understanding is that rudder vibration was lessened by tapering the rudder and adding a groove along the aft end.
 
Just completed the starboard main channel and I'm starting to fashion the chain plates. I used Bob's technique to attach the dead eyes to the channel leaving a loop under the channel on which to attach the hook of the chain plate.

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

With apologies, I have not posted for too long a time, so this post is overly long. I'll try to do better in the future.
 
Deck: I first added the raised portion of the deck and then finished the starboard and port sides simultaneously. Tree nails were simulated with small drilled holes colored with a sharp pencil lead. Plank lengths were simulated by Xacto knife scoring traced with a sharp pencil point. I primed the hull with spray gray auto primer and applied a first coat of Pollyscale acrylic paint according the plan paint scheme.
I took several breaks while planking the hull and the deck to fashion a binnacle, tree pumps, capstan bitts, cannon (14) and rudder. I followed Bob's lead and made the grudgeon and pintle from folder stock. The main rail came next.  I then added the ringbolts for the cannon carriage rigging, cleats and pin rails. (I still have the two bow pin rails to add.) I drilled scuppers and the fairleads into the hull and added the gangway stairs and chess tree. The transom was a bit of an engineering challenge because I built it too narrow. It resulted in just four windows rather than the six in the plan (or five if you did not want windows beyond the width of the great cabin.) Still, once the transom was painted, it looked OK, even if it lacked authenticity. I fitted the rudder to the stern post and then put it aside until the ship is mounted. (I knocked the rudder off the stern post twice before I got the brilliant idea, to put it aside until later.) 
 
As the photos indicate, I kept the quarterdeck open so that the great cabin could be "finished" per the Lauck Street Shipyard plans. I had a good time modeling the great cabin and adding details such as the checkered floor and a cleat used to tie off the rope that opens the gun port cover. The door to the great cabin is probably too small at the ship's scale, but in order to build it to five feet, it would have had to be 1 1/4" high and I simply did not know how to do that. So, I'll assume that my captain was very short. The "HL" door hinges were also made from folder stock painted black. I then planked the inside of the transom and added the flagstaff chock and socket and the main sheet horse.
 
The fancy rail, quarter badge and fashion piece came next. I made my own gun port cover and hinge assembly, copying Bob's ("Rafine's") work and the plans. Then the beak head--wow! That's as close as my hobby ever came to work. Nothing measured right and I ended up relying on the seat of my pants as much as the plans. I hope it looks half decent. (I do not have Bob's bending and laminating talent, or any other of his great ship-building skills, so I cut the rails from a solid piece of birch plywood.) Next came the timber heads, knight heads and catheads. I did manage to fashion the sheaves in the catheads by filing, drilling, adding the skinny part of a toothpick and laminating the sides. The channels and chain plates are in progress and I still need to add the steering wheel standard assembly. I anticipate another month or so to complete the hull and place the cannons, rigging and deck furniture.
 
I'm looking forward to starting the masts, spars and rigging. Great thanks to Bob and Ken for the invaluable guidance in their Fair American posts.

I just wasn't happy with the spacing of the gun ports on the starboard side. So, remembering, after all, that the model is wood, I spend a couple of hours (or so) moving gun port five about 5/16" aft. I think that it came out OK. (Photo attached) Onward to the inboard planking.