Telp

A helpful hint:  Study the stern sections of 18th century sailing ships that had stern windows and you'll find, with very few exceptions, that the base and the top of the windows form an arc that usually coincides with the curvature (camber) of the deck.  It is easier to visualize than actually construct, but I thought I'd throw it out there.  Looking nice!

Looking really nice indeed, love the planking too, very nice.

Looking really nice indeed, love the planking too, very nice.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

After a few attempts to put a set of self made Windows at the stern, I finally went for some Windows I got cheap off the net, now painted and glazed, I just need to do a few fine cuts and sanding tasks to make them look a bit tidier. Thank heavens for dolls houses :-)

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

The Tamils tape is great stuff, it should as such at that width be able to meander to the line if it isn't a perfect straight line. Another trick I used in the past was to lay the tape then with a very fine wet and dry paper, run the paper along the tape edge it flattens it perfectly. I use to paint military aircraft for a living and masking a 360 degree circle by hand for roundels was a great way to use masking tape as a tool.
 
Even though the hull is black I'd be tempted to white prime the hull, mark the waterline on the white primer, then mask inside those lines so you create the waterline part under the tape, slightly rub along the tape then spray the hull black, this is the tricky part, don't wait for the black to dry totally, leave a little tab at the end of the tape and take the tape off, do it in one delecate pull and this will prevent any bleeding drying on or under the tape pulling any black away. Let it dry then mask the black up and spray the White. Black over white will be perfect for seeing the coverage. Do gentle coats as well, 3 good thin coats just wet enough to cover would be ideal rather than 1 thick coat which will bleed. Acrylic is perfect and it drys pretty fast as well but I'd be tempted to give the black 48 hours before placing masking tape on it.
 
Just one other, give the white primer a little scuff with one of those gentle kitchen scouring pads, they do a nice job without marking the primer. Best of luck and it the tape needs cutting in half just lay it on a clean table and cut down the center so you have two good edges with one bit of tape, the Tanya stuff is very forgiving and re sticks perfectly.

I would do as joe, little trick to do with the masking tape is to tear a thin strip from the main strip and mask the line as the thinner the tape the easier it is to make a line and any slight bends to the line can be easily done with a thinner strip. Then mask over the original masking line with a wider bit. Also, before applying the tape run the sticky side across your trousers, jeans ect as this removes any ailments on the sticky section and creates a tighter fit to the area being masked.

The Tamils tape is great stuff, it should as such at that width be able to meander to the line if it isn't a perfect straight line. Another trick I used in the past was to lay the tape then with a very fine wet and dry paper, run the paper along the tape edge it flattens it perfectly. I use to paint military aircraft for a living and masking a 360 degree circle by hand for roundels was a great way to use masking tape as a tool.
 
Even though the hull is black I'd be tempted to white prime the hull, mark the waterline on the white primer, then mask inside those lines so you create the waterline part under the tape, slightly rub along the tape then spray the hull black, this is the tricky part, don't wait for the black to dry totally, leave a little tab at the end of the tape and take the tape off, do it in one delecate pull and this will prevent any bleeding drying on or under the tape pulling any black away. Let it dry then mask the black up and spray the White. Black over white will be perfect for seeing the coverage. Do gentle coats as well, 3 good thin coats just wet enough to cover would be ideal rather than 1 thick coat which will bleed. Acrylic is perfect and it drys pretty fast as well but I'd be tempted to give the black 48 hours before placing masking tape on it.
 
Just one other, give the white primer a little scuff with one of those gentle kitchen scouring pads, they do a nice job without marking the primer. Best of luck and it the tape needs cutting in half just lay it on a clean table and cut down the center so you have two good edges with one bit of tape, the Tanya stuff is very forgiving and re sticks perfectly.

The Tamils tape is great stuff, it should as such at that width be able to meander to the line if it isn't a perfect straight line. Another trick I used in the past was to lay the tape then with a very fine wet and dry paper, run the paper along the tape edge it flattens it perfectly. I use to paint military aircraft for a living and masking a 360 degree circle by hand for roundels was a great way to use masking tape as a tool.
 
Even though the hull is black I'd be tempted to white prime the hull, mark the waterline on the white primer, then mask inside those lines so you create the waterline part under the tape, slightly rub along the tape then spray the hull black, this is the tricky part, don't wait for the black to dry totally, leave a little tab at the end of the tape and take the tape off, do it in one delecate pull and this will prevent any bleeding drying on or under the tape pulling any black away. Let it dry then mask the black up and spray the White. Black over white will be perfect for seeing the coverage. Do gentle coats as well, 3 good thin coats just wet enough to cover would be ideal rather than 1 thick coat which will bleed. Acrylic is perfect and it drys pretty fast as well but I'd be tempted to give the black 48 hours before placing masking tape on it.
 
Just one other, give the white primer a little scuff with one of those gentle kitchen scouring pads, they do a nice job without marking the primer. Best of luck and it the tape needs cutting in half just lay it on a clean table and cut down the center so you have two good edges with one bit of tape, the Tanya stuff is very forgiving and re sticks perfectly.

I would do as joe, little trick to do with the masking tape is to tear a thin strip from the main strip and mask the line as the thinner the tape the easier it is to make a line and any slight bends to the line can be easily done with a thinner strip. Then mask over the original masking line with a wider bit. Also, before applying the tape run the sticky side across your trousers, jeans ect as this removes any ailments on the sticky section and creates a tighter fit to the area being masked.

After a few attempts to put a set of self made Windows at the stern, I finally went for some Windows I got cheap off the net, now painted and glazed, I just need to do a few fine cuts and sanding tasks to make them look a bit tidier. Thank heavens for dolls houses :-)

I am laying walnut as a second planking to my brig, I as such use walnut coloured wood filler thinned down with water to a slightly thickish paste, not too thin to be unable to have it lay. I give the filler roughly five minutes to settle and then I gently sand using one of those flexible rubbing down pads that are all soft and easy to form into a rubbing down shape. Once I have the filler as I want it I then pull a Stanley blade along the work area to bring it as level as I can with the planks above or below.
 
I got to the stage where I do not wait until the whole planking process is done before looking at issues, I lay a plank, sort it out and once I am happy I lay the next one. It will save me a headache in the long term trying to sort a lot out rather than a little at a time. I see the point that ships were not perfect lines ect, but as a model I think they look a lot nicer when well rounded as such as their size shows up everything too much.

I am laying walnut as a second planking to my brig, I as such use walnut coloured wood filler thinned down with water to a slightly thickish paste, not too thin to be unable to have it lay. I give the filler roughly five minutes to settle and then I gently sand using one of those flexible rubbing down pads that are all soft and easy to form into a rubbing down shape. Once I have the filler as I want it I then pull a Stanley blade along the work area to bring it as level as I can with the planks above or below.
 
I got to the stage where I do not wait until the whole planking process is done before looking at issues, I lay a plank, sort it out and once I am happy I lay the next one. It will save me a headache in the long term trying to sort a lot out rather than a little at a time. I see the point that ships were not perfect lines ect, but as a model I think they look a lot nicer when well rounded as such as their size shows up everything too much.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

Thanks rob, I will try the wood in glue bit on any smaller gaps, one thing I'd like to do is get new cannons, I don't like the cut on the kit ones, not one of them is the same cut, I'm not sure of what to get but there must be better ones out there that will work on the brig.

After a few attempts to put a set of self made Windows at the stern, I finally went for some Windows I got cheap off the net, now painted and glazed, I just need to do a few fine cuts and sanding tasks to make them look a bit tidier. Thank heavens for dolls houses :-)

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

After a few attempts to put a set of self made Windows at the stern, I finally went for some Windows I got cheap off the net, now painted and glazed, I just need to do a few fine cuts and sanding tasks to make them look a bit tidier. Thank heavens for dolls houses :-)

Thanks rob, I will try the wood in glue bit on any smaller gaps, one thing I'd like to do is get new cannons, I don't like the cut on the kit ones, not one of them is the same cut, I'm not sure of what to get but there must be better ones out there that will work on the brig.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

She is a lovely little boat to build, it was the first one I done as the wife got me it for Christmas. If it helps, don't fit any masts until you have done everything to the deck as such, like the little eyelet that sits mid way where the sail rigging connects downwards, also, do not glue the oars to the seats as there are several small rigging eyelets that connect in the inner wall for rigging use, basically fit all the eyelets first, I had some choice swear words when I could not fit them and had to remove a couple of things.
 
Also, dipping the sails in black tea for 20 minutes gave them a really nice used look.

Well that's today's efforts completed, back to work tomorrow then a long weekend in London. Found the walnut wood very nice to sand and decided to sort any gaps as I go. An old trick I use to use when I was an aircraft painter was to mix body filler with a small amount of water mixed to a paste then gently fill in any small areas where the planks were not quite square. Captain minion is happy enough for now.