mojofilter

Hello Hamilton -
Looks like you've already started the plates.
I've edited my very first post to show what the copper plates looked like before I put the patina on.  The tape with the pounced rivets and embossed plate lines are three plates high (except where they are tapered in). I added them to my post rather than clutter up your post.  Take a look if you want.
At scale I guess it does look a bit overbearing - not nearly as extreme looking after the (heavy) patina though.
 
- Tim

Nicely done Hamilton!!
What did you use to glue the caprail to the top of the bulkhead with?  Mine has been through some rough times, especially when she was inverted for coppering.
One thing you may want to take a quick look at before you get much further is the line of the bowsprit through the hole under the forward caprail.  The fit of the square section of the bowsprit was pretty tight, Also the angle of the bowsprit is set by where it sits on the top of the bow (top of the keel? - there's a name for that part ), and the aft end which sits in the anchor windlass.  Paintings and old photos seem to show a variety of vertical angles of the bowsprit, some almost parallel to the waterline.  I put mine as high as I could, which wasn't much.
Can't wait to see the copper start going on.  Are you going to simulate rivets?
 
- Tim

Nicely done Hamilton!!
What did you use to glue the caprail to the top of the bulkhead with?  Mine has been through some rough times, especially when she was inverted for coppering.
One thing you may want to take a quick look at before you get much further is the line of the bowsprit through the hole under the forward caprail.  The fit of the square section of the bowsprit was pretty tight, Also the angle of the bowsprit is set by where it sits on the top of the bow (top of the keel? - there's a name for that part ), and the aft end which sits in the anchor windlass.  Paintings and old photos seem to show a variety of vertical angles of the bowsprit, some almost parallel to the waterline.  I put mine as high as I could, which wasn't much.
Can't wait to see the copper start going on.  Are you going to simulate rivets?
 
- Tim

Hi Hamilton - Great to see your America again!!
That's a beautiful deck - I really like the three-staggered butt planking. The oil really brings it out.  Don't worry, my America is about 80% filler (I figure it will keep the ship worms out ;-).  Can't remember if you had decided what to copper with - glue-on plates or tape.  I was afraid of my tape not sticking well to the filler (and its dust) so I sprayed a light coat of lacquer over the lower hull.  Don't know if it was necessary but the copper is still on there.
Anyway, hope you have a great summer of modeling!
 
- Tim

Hello Jörgen - Beautiful!
So what is the material you ended up using for the sails?
Some of the nicest I've ever seen.

Hello Jörgen - Beautiful!
So what is the material you ended up using for the sails?
Some of the nicest I've ever seen.

For the coils, the rope was just soaked in 50/50 Elmer's and water.  Tried to get it as dry as possible with paper towels, then coiled on the pin.  Put plastic wrap on the deck underneath.  I've seen much better on this site.  Also they are unrealistically short - it would not cover the vertical rise of the gaff if brought down. 
The supplied rope is 24mm, 40mm, & 80mm, or so Mamoli says (no practical way to tell).  I got Syren rope but no direct size match.  I went with the next size up but really, it doesn't look like that much of a difference.  Probably because the Syren rope is much 'tighter' - less fuzz.  

For the coils, the rope was just soaked in 50/50 Elmer's and water.  Tried to get it as dry as possible with paper towels, then coiled on the pin.  Put plastic wrap on the deck underneath.  I've seen much better on this site.  Also they are unrealistically short - it would not cover the vertical rise of the gaff if brought down. 
The supplied rope is 24mm, 40mm, & 80mm, or so Mamoli says (no practical way to tell).  I got Syren rope but no direct size match.  I went with the next size up but really, it doesn't look like that much of a difference.  Probably because the Syren rope is much 'tighter' - less fuzz.  

So it's been a little slow going on the standing rigging but some progress.
 
This is where she lives when not being worked on.  It is so dusty next to the mesa - that and the dog hair . . .

 
The gaff rigging:

 

 

 

 
My attempt at rope on a belaying pin

 
So no more procrastinating - on to the bowsprit.
 
Incidentally, I ordered an excellent book on America called the Low Black Schooner: Yacht America 1851 1945 by John Rousmaniere. (ISBN 0-939510-04-9).
Lots of history, really good drawings, paintings, and even some early photographs.
No wonder so many different model interpretations - she went through many changes between the Isle of Wight and the civil war.
 
I am still up in the air about sails.  At the very least I will add some of the running rigging.
Getting close now. 

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

So it's been a little slow going on the standing rigging but some progress.
 
This is where she lives when not being worked on.  It is so dusty next to the mesa - that and the dog hair . . .

 
The gaff rigging:

 

 

 

 
My attempt at rope on a belaying pin

 
So no more procrastinating - on to the bowsprit.
 
Incidentally, I ordered an excellent book on America called the Low Black Schooner: Yacht America 1851 1945 by John Rousmaniere. (ISBN 0-939510-04-9).
Lots of history, really good drawings, paintings, and even some early photographs.
No wonder so many different model interpretations - she went through many changes between the Isle of Wight and the civil war.
 
I am still up in the air about sails.  At the very least I will add some of the running rigging.
Getting close now. 

So it's been a little slow going on the standing rigging but some progress.
 
This is where she lives when not being worked on.  It is so dusty next to the mesa - that and the dog hair . . .

 
The gaff rigging:

 

 

 

 
My attempt at rope on a belaying pin

 
So no more procrastinating - on to the bowsprit.
 
Incidentally, I ordered an excellent book on America called the Low Black Schooner: Yacht America 1851 1945 by John Rousmaniere. (ISBN 0-939510-04-9).
Lots of history, really good drawings, paintings, and even some early photographs.
No wonder so many different model interpretations - she went through many changes between the Isle of Wight and the civil war.
 
I am still up in the air about sails.  At the very least I will add some of the running rigging.
Getting close now. 

Hello Primey -
 
I too will pull up a chair and watch your build.  I must say, so far, nicely done!
I lurk on the CS build logs as I have one (Mantau/Sergal, also 1:78) under the workbench, waiting for Yacht America to be finished.  A ways off but in the meantime, soaking up tips and wisdom like a sponge on a puddle of spilled Coopers.
My only advise at this point is to consider copper plating the hull.  CS looks so nice with a copper bottom, and there are many examples and tips on it.  The Mantua kit comes with something like 1300 individual plates.  Think of it this way, that's only 650 per side!  Piece of cake!
Ive seen other kits with self-adhesive tape, one plate wide that I gather, goes on like planking.  I think you have to apply the 'rivets' first.  On America, I used tape that was three plates wide and ~eight plates long (3/4" wide X 6" long) and applied the 'rivets' with a pounce wheel from the back side.

 
Either way, she looks like she is going to be a fine build.  Looking forward to your progress!
 
- Tim

Hi David - 
 
As for which side out?  Your ship is so beautiful that you must put it on a table in the middle of the room so people can walk all the way around it!  I say all sides out!
 
- Tim

Got a minute to update a little.
Still have to finish the gaffs.  The kit came without the Britannia-metal gaff jaws or a design for the clappers indicated on the Arthur Montgomery plans.  I shall fashion the jaws out of walnut.
The shroud lines are temporarily rigged to the deadeyes.  Per someone's good advice, I won't apply the lanyards until the rest of the rigging in on.  Here's a bunch of pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will be hanging the gaffs and the rest of the standing rigging.  The bowsprit, jib boom and the main boom worry me because they really stick out in harm's way.  I can be pretty ham-fisted . . .
I figure it's time to get her on a pedestal but haven't decided on what to use yet.  I'm pretty sure it won't be the 'cradle' that came with  the kit.
 
- Tim

Hello Primey -  
 
I have used the pounce wheel on my Yacht America and I think it looks pretty good.  I think I've read of a number of people who have used this technique.  My recommendation would be the one that is not the needle point.  Mine looks like the other you show with the light colored handle.  I didn't want to pierce the copper - I even dulled it a little on a sharpening stone.  I pounced from the back and used a hardboard backing.  Too hard and it seemed to want to pierce it, too soft and it didn't have a good definition.
I used 3/4" self adhesive copper tape as seen in this log (post #23).  The tape was scored from the front with a dulled #11 Xacto blade to look like individual plates.  If you chose to use this method, you might want to use tape that is 1 plate wide - could be easier to control.
I see your CS is 1/78 scale.  You could also order the plates that come with the Mantua CS kit - ~1300 individual plates.
Can't wait to see what you come up with.
 
- Tim


 

 

Hi David - 
 
As for which side out?  Your ship is so beautiful that you must put it on a table in the middle of the room so people can walk all the way around it!  I say all sides out!
 
- Tim

Hi David - 
 
As for which side out?  Your ship is so beautiful that you must put it on a table in the middle of the room so people can walk all the way around it!  I say all sides out!
 
- Tim

Got a minute to update a little.
Still have to finish the gaffs.  The kit came without the Britannia-metal gaff jaws or a design for the clappers indicated on the Arthur Montgomery plans.  I shall fashion the jaws out of walnut.
The shroud lines are temporarily rigged to the deadeyes.  Per someone's good advice, I won't apply the lanyards until the rest of the rigging in on.  Here's a bunch of pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will be hanging the gaffs and the rest of the standing rigging.  The bowsprit, jib boom and the main boom worry me because they really stick out in harm's way.  I can be pretty ham-fisted . . .
I figure it's time to get her on a pedestal but haven't decided on what to use yet.  I'm pretty sure it won't be the 'cradle' that came with  the kit.
 
- Tim

I think I mentioned somewhere before that the supplied Britannia metal cheek blocks for the end of the main mast boom and the gaff were way too big - double sheaves and way too heavy.  I fashioned my own out of sterling silver (didn't have any brass, plus my wife is a silversmith) and turned a little sheave.  I used the supplied little brass nails.  I will file the heads of the nails to look like hex bolts but I'm afraid that only 9 year olds and people like me with magnifiers will notice...
 

 
 

Got a minute to update a little.
Still have to finish the gaffs.  The kit came without the Britannia-metal gaff jaws or a design for the clappers indicated on the Arthur Montgomery plans.  I shall fashion the jaws out of walnut.
The shroud lines are temporarily rigged to the deadeyes.  Per someone's good advice, I won't apply the lanyards until the rest of the rigging in on.  Here's a bunch of pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will be hanging the gaffs and the rest of the standing rigging.  The bowsprit, jib boom and the main boom worry me because they really stick out in harm's way.  I can be pretty ham-fisted . . .
I figure it's time to get her on a pedestal but haven't decided on what to use yet.  I'm pretty sure it won't be the 'cradle' that came with  the kit.
 
- Tim

Got a minute to update a little.
Still have to finish the gaffs.  The kit came without the Britannia-metal gaff jaws or a design for the clappers indicated on the Arthur Montgomery plans.  I shall fashion the jaws out of walnut.
The shroud lines are temporarily rigged to the deadeyes.  Per someone's good advice, I won't apply the lanyards until the rest of the rigging in on.  Here's a bunch of pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will be hanging the gaffs and the rest of the standing rigging.  The bowsprit, jib boom and the main boom worry me because they really stick out in harm's way.  I can be pretty ham-fisted . . .
I figure it's time to get her on a pedestal but haven't decided on what to use yet.  I'm pretty sure it won't be the 'cradle' that came with  the kit.
 
- Tim

Got a minute to update a little.
Still have to finish the gaffs.  The kit came without the Britannia-metal gaff jaws or a design for the clappers indicated on the Arthur Montgomery plans.  I shall fashion the jaws out of walnut.
The shroud lines are temporarily rigged to the deadeyes.  Per someone's good advice, I won't apply the lanyards until the rest of the rigging in on.  Here's a bunch of pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will be hanging the gaffs and the rest of the standing rigging.  The bowsprit, jib boom and the main boom worry me because they really stick out in harm's way.  I can be pretty ham-fisted . . .
I figure it's time to get her on a pedestal but haven't decided on what to use yet.  I'm pretty sure it won't be the 'cradle' that came with  the kit.
 
- Tim

I think I mentioned somewhere before that the supplied Britannia metal cheek blocks for the end of the main mast boom and the gaff were way too big - double sheaves and way too heavy.  I fashioned my own out of sterling silver (didn't have any brass, plus my wife is a silversmith) and turned a little sheave.  I used the supplied little brass nails.  I will file the heads of the nails to look like hex bolts but I'm afraid that only 9 year olds and people like me with magnifiers will notice...