mojofilter

Thanks ragrove - next time I have her off the jig I'll snap some pics.
Thanks Hamilton - I try to keep it fun, mainly by not thinking about the magnitude of this undertaking.
I've got a few pics here...
I'm gonna do the main deck first.  Gluing down - nobody breath . . .

As I mentioned I'm going to do the bulwarks in solid brass, simulating the 5' by 15' iron plates.  Don't quite know how to cut them out yet.
I've seen cross section drawings of the bulwarks where there is the bulwark itself, attached at the lower edge to an iron sheer strake.  I thought I'd just extend the brass down below the top of the timber strakes and attach the brass to the bulkheads.  I need help on how to treat the transition from the main deck bulwark, forward to the sides of the fore deck, and aft around the poop.  Pictures of the iron work in these areas would be nice.
m
Building some of the deck furniture so that I can miter around their base.  The aft deck house still needs some trim paint.



Still need to glue down the fore deck.  In spite of my efforts. it is still trying to curl up like a potato chip.  I need to figure out what the aft edge of the deck attaches to.
I think the main rail is supposed to run from the top of the lower bulwark, straight onto the fore deck and poop deck (??).
 
- Tim
 

Thanks ragrove - next time I have her off the jig I'll snap some pics.
Thanks Hamilton - I try to keep it fun, mainly by not thinking about the magnitude of this undertaking.
I've got a few pics here...
I'm gonna do the main deck first.  Gluing down - nobody breath . . .

As I mentioned I'm going to do the bulwarks in solid brass, simulating the 5' by 15' iron plates.  Don't quite know how to cut them out yet.
I've seen cross section drawings of the bulwarks where there is the bulwark itself, attached at the lower edge to an iron sheer strake.  I thought I'd just extend the brass down below the top of the timber strakes and attach the brass to the bulkheads.  I need help on how to treat the transition from the main deck bulwark, forward to the sides of the fore deck, and aft around the poop.  Pictures of the iron work in these areas would be nice.
m
Building some of the deck furniture so that I can miter around their base.  The aft deck house still needs some trim paint.



Still need to glue down the fore deck.  In spite of my efforts. it is still trying to curl up like a potato chip.  I need to figure out what the aft edge of the deck attaches to.
I think the main rail is supposed to run from the top of the lower bulwark, straight onto the fore deck and poop deck (??).
 
- Tim
 

Thanks ragrove - next time I have her off the jig I'll snap some pics.
Thanks Hamilton - I try to keep it fun, mainly by not thinking about the magnitude of this undertaking.
I've got a few pics here...
I'm gonna do the main deck first.  Gluing down - nobody breath . . .

As I mentioned I'm going to do the bulwarks in solid brass, simulating the 5' by 15' iron plates.  Don't quite know how to cut them out yet.
I've seen cross section drawings of the bulwarks where there is the bulwark itself, attached at the lower edge to an iron sheer strake.  I thought I'd just extend the brass down below the top of the timber strakes and attach the brass to the bulkheads.  I need help on how to treat the transition from the main deck bulwark, forward to the sides of the fore deck, and aft around the poop.  Pictures of the iron work in these areas would be nice.
m
Building some of the deck furniture so that I can miter around their base.  The aft deck house still needs some trim paint.



Still need to glue down the fore deck.  In spite of my efforts. it is still trying to curl up like a potato chip.  I need to figure out what the aft edge of the deck attaches to.
I think the main rail is supposed to run from the top of the lower bulwark, straight onto the fore deck and poop deck (??).
 
- Tim
 

Thanks ragrove - next time I have her off the jig I'll snap some pics.
Thanks Hamilton - I try to keep it fun, mainly by not thinking about the magnitude of this undertaking.
I've got a few pics here...
I'm gonna do the main deck first.  Gluing down - nobody breath . . .

As I mentioned I'm going to do the bulwarks in solid brass, simulating the 5' by 15' iron plates.  Don't quite know how to cut them out yet.
I've seen cross section drawings of the bulwarks where there is the bulwark itself, attached at the lower edge to an iron sheer strake.  I thought I'd just extend the brass down below the top of the timber strakes and attach the brass to the bulkheads.  I need help on how to treat the transition from the main deck bulwark, forward to the sides of the fore deck, and aft around the poop.  Pictures of the iron work in these areas would be nice.
m
Building some of the deck furniture so that I can miter around their base.  The aft deck house still needs some trim paint.



Still need to glue down the fore deck.  In spite of my efforts. it is still trying to curl up like a potato chip.  I need to figure out what the aft edge of the deck attaches to.
I think the main rail is supposed to run from the top of the lower bulwark, straight onto the fore deck and poop deck (??).
 
- Tim
 

I am at this point here - the sub-frame is glued in and all the bulkheads trued.
 

 
The sub-deck is just laid on for now.
My plan is to use brass sheet for the bulwarks.  I wasn't going to have any wood inside the bulwark under the main rail.  I am planning to solder up the stanchions per Longridge and solder them to the joining butt straps.  I don't know if I can pull off real rivets to attach them - if not I'll solder them.
I am considering gluing down the sub-deck, cutting off the bulwark risers, and then planking the deck up to the waterways.  Actually just short of them, and adding a margin board.  I intend to joggle the decking up to the fo'c'sle deck (up there too).  I will use 3mm maple deck planks per bonedoctor51's approach as I agree 2mm would be too busy.  I've read in at least one thread that planking is way easier before the bulwarks are in place, at least on the main deck.  Trying to decide if I need to put down a strake or two at and below the maindeck level first.
 
- T
 

Thanks Hof - Looks like your gammoning chain is at (under) the end of the jib boom and forward.
Beautiful by the way!
 
- Tim

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

I am at this point here - the sub-frame is glued in and all the bulkheads trued.
 

 
The sub-deck is just laid on for now.
My plan is to use brass sheet for the bulwarks.  I wasn't going to have any wood inside the bulwark under the main rail.  I am planning to solder up the stanchions per Longridge and solder them to the joining butt straps.  I don't know if I can pull off real rivets to attach them - if not I'll solder them.
I am considering gluing down the sub-deck, cutting off the bulwark risers, and then planking the deck up to the waterways.  Actually just short of them, and adding a margin board.  I intend to joggle the decking up to the fo'c'sle deck (up there too).  I will use 3mm maple deck planks per bonedoctor51's approach as I agree 2mm would be too busy.  I've read in at least one thread that planking is way easier before the bulwarks are in place, at least on the main deck.  Trying to decide if I need to put down a strake or two at and below the maindeck level first.
 
- T
 

So here is the slot for the Gammoning chain.  The chain seems the right scale.  It is silver plated brass which should go black with liver of sulfur. 

I used 10-32 X 1" threaded stand-offs epoxied into the keel.  These will be the final pedestal mounts, but should also come in handy for holding her in different positions during the build.

Now that all is done (?) to the keel while it's flat, on to the bulkheads.

So, research has begun in earnest.
Rather than mark up my Longridge with the 1:48 to 1:78 conversions, I started a notebook for these, and also a paper log.
 
The new build-board is done.  I will apply posts spaced at mast locations for upside down work.


Longridge (and many of you) have a gammoning chain applied.  It looks like it is centered about 5mm forward of the end of the jib boom.  Any suggestions on exactly where (on this 1:78 Manoli kit)?

I plan to also install 10/32 X 1" threaded standoffs into the keel for eventual display mounts.  And I'm considering Longridge's set screws under the mast steps for final adjustment of shroud and stay tension.  Masts will be 3/8" brass tube for main and fore masts, 11/32 for mizzen mast and bowsprit.  I must say that the K&S Precision Metal tubing is perfect for nesting sizes.  the 0.3785 fits perfectly over the 0.3465 for rings about the bowsprit and mizzen mast.  The 0.408 fits perfectly over the 0.3785 for rings etc. over the main and fore mast.  I want to get everything milled on the keel before I fix the bulkheads.  I'm wondering if rabbeting a bearding line groove on the keel for the garboard strake and the strake ends is desirable and/or necessary?
 
- Tim

Since I will be relying on Longridge so much, and his build was 1:48, I made an Excel spreadsheet that converts his dimensions (always fractional) to the 1:78 of the Sergal/Mantua kit.
I'm looking for brass tube for the three lower masts (and bowsprit - same as mizzen) in 3/8 and 11/32 dia.  I used to be pretty good at silver soldering so this could be a clean way to outfit the lower masts.
I really like his idea of the set screw height adjuster at the step of the masts.  Could be the answer to saggy shroud syndrome.
All this fun and I haven't even opened the box yet - well, not much more than that.
 
- Tim
 

Hello all -
Well, it's been long enough since America was finished that mention of setting up the shipyard at the end of the dining room table again did not get me keelhauled by the Admiral.  I like working there but I need a way to move it away when the table is needed for actual dining.  I shall make a new table-top protector, felt on the bottom, that can be picked up from both sides and moved to a small trestle in the den.  My dining table is just wide enough to accommodate her 45" LOA.
 
I've been reviewing the Mantua plans (skimpy, inadequate, and in some places, just plain wrong), the C. Longridge books, the Campbell plans, and most importantly, the many MSW logs here.  It will be a challenge to weave all of this - many times conflicting - information into a decent build.  I will need your help!!
The Campbell plans are a frustration because they are obviously wonderful, however my set is almost, but not entirely, illegible.  They look to be copies of copies of copies . . .  These came from the museum store.  Is there any better source?
 
Following the new build table will be a keel fixture of some sort.  I've seen some interesting approaches here.  Anyone have a favorite for a hull this large?
Also considering balsa(?) blocks between bulkheads, at least at the stem and stern.  Thoughts?
 
- Tim
 
 

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

Hi Gary -
 
Just found your log.  I shall pull up a chair and watch if I may.  I built the Mamoli America POB at 1:66 scale.  I passed on the Bluejacket because they said it was a solid carved hull.  Didn't know it was sliced like this.  Intriguing.  1:48 will be nice.
If I may offer a couple of suggestions,  take a look at Syren Ship Model's (www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com) boxwood rigging blocks and their selection of scale rope.  Both are superior items (especially compared to what came in the Mamoli kit).  Their rope is fuzz-free and came in black, which I used for shroud rigging, and tan for the rest of the standing rigging.
I also bought their serving machine for serving the shroud lines.  Cheap and works like a charm.
I would highly recommend coppering the hull.  I used adhesive backed copper tape and a ponce wheel to simulate rivets.  Probably not exactly true to the original plates but it looked pretty good.  There are a couple of books that I mentioned in my log - don't quite remember the titles but they had some good drawings and paintings, and even some actual photographs.
Do you plan on doing sails?
Anyway, your work looks fantastic!!  Please keep it up and post pictures.  I can't wait.
 
- Tim

So here is the slot for the Gammoning chain.  The chain seems the right scale.  It is silver plated brass which should go black with liver of sulfur. 

I used 10-32 X 1" threaded stand-offs epoxied into the keel.  These will be the final pedestal mounts, but should also come in handy for holding her in different positions during the build.

Now that all is done (?) to the keel while it's flat, on to the bulkheads.

I am at this point here - the sub-frame is glued in and all the bulkheads trued.
 

 
The sub-deck is just laid on for now.
My plan is to use brass sheet for the bulwarks.  I wasn't going to have any wood inside the bulwark under the main rail.  I am planning to solder up the stanchions per Longridge and solder them to the joining butt straps.  I don't know if I can pull off real rivets to attach them - if not I'll solder them.
I am considering gluing down the sub-deck, cutting off the bulwark risers, and then planking the deck up to the waterways.  Actually just short of them, and adding a margin board.  I intend to joggle the decking up to the fo'c'sle deck (up there too).  I will use 3mm maple deck planks per bonedoctor51's approach as I agree 2mm would be too busy.  I've read in at least one thread that planking is way easier before the bulwarks are in place, at least on the main deck.  Trying to decide if I need to put down a strake or two at and below the maindeck level first.
 
- T
 

I am at this point here - the sub-frame is glued in and all the bulkheads trued.
 

 
The sub-deck is just laid on for now.
My plan is to use brass sheet for the bulwarks.  I wasn't going to have any wood inside the bulwark under the main rail.  I am planning to solder up the stanchions per Longridge and solder them to the joining butt straps.  I don't know if I can pull off real rivets to attach them - if not I'll solder them.
I am considering gluing down the sub-deck, cutting off the bulwark risers, and then planking the deck up to the waterways.  Actually just short of them, and adding a margin board.  I intend to joggle the decking up to the fo'c'sle deck (up there too).  I will use 3mm maple deck planks per bonedoctor51's approach as I agree 2mm would be too busy.  I've read in at least one thread that planking is way easier before the bulwarks are in place, at least on the main deck.  Trying to decide if I need to put down a strake or two at and below the maindeck level first.
 
- T
 

I planked the deck with 3 mm x 0.6 walnut all the way to the bulwarks then added the waterways.  Quite a job bending them.  The deck is planked by the rule of 5 's, not the rule of 2's as shown on the plans.  The staggered fives are more realistic.  Actually I would have had to use 2 mm walnut to be on scale, but one place where you can cheat a little on scale is on the deck.  Otherwise it looks too busy.  So 3 mm was the choice.
 
I did the deck first then the waterways to bring the height of the waterways up to the correct level for the scuppers.  Putting the waterways down first made them too low.
 
For the bulwarks I used the brass sheets on the outside and planked the interior.  Looks better that way.  Be very careful about the deadeyes and belaying pin locations.  They are backwards on the supplied plans.  Use Underhill and Longridge as guides.  The deadeye internal chain plates are way over scale.  I used 0.81 brass wire painted white for these and the bulwark stanchions.  Same problem.  I personally cannot tolerate overscale parts.
 
I'll add the two forward ladders later.  I don't like the ones with the kit -- too big.  I'll address that problem later.
 
Please do not hesitate to contact me by private email.  Lou

Hi Lou - Just reviewing your work - really nice.  Wondering if you planked the deck before doing the bulwarks? (I'm at that point)  Also, will you do the little ladders up to the fore deck?
Can't wait to see progress on masting and rigging.   ... And pictures!
 
- Tim

Very nice coil Ed,  don't think you could get much more line on that pin.  Did you make those pins or find them somewhere?  The pins supplied with my 1:78 Cutty are totally wrong scale.  And you've probably covered this before but how do you treat your rope for coiling?
 
- Tim

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 239 – Revisions - Spencer and Headsail Rigging
 
The running rigging described in the last two parts has been revised.  In the case of the spencer gaff the fall of the vang was obstructed by the outer boats on the skid beams.  To correct this, I added lead blocks to the forward topmast backstay and led the fall down to its pin through a fairlead on that stay.  The first picture shows the original configuration on the port side and the revision on the starboard side.
 

 
The revised rig retains the same eyebolt for the standing leg of the vang, which then passes through the block on the shortened pendant, then through the lead block and a fairlead, both on the forward topmast stay.  The fall then belays on the same pin as before.  The next picture shows the starboard lead block and fairlead.
 

 
The old rope coils and belaying were removed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A cotton swab soaked in isopropanol was laid on the rope for a few minutes to soften the wood glue. The rope was then easily removed.
 
The other revision involved the halyards on the three headsails.  I initially considered three typical configurations for these – no blocks, a single block whip from the deck, and a single block at the head of the sail.  I installed the first, simplest method as described in Part 238.  Shortly after installing these, I thought more about this and was concerned about no mechanical advantage on these rather large sails.  In checking (belatedly) the 1870's photo of the ship in New York, the blocks at the lower ends of the stays are clearly visible.  So, that configuration has now been installed on all three stays.  The foot of the topmast stay is shown in the next picture after revision.

This may be compared with the first photo in Part 238.  The revised lower rigging of the outer jib halyard is shown in the next picture.
 

To avoid re-rigging the downhaulers, the lower blocks were strapped to the shackle in place – a most difficult task, especially with shaky hands. The shackle eye was tied first, then the splice at the base of the block.  The inner jib stay at the left of the picture has not yet been converted. 
 
The upper ends of the stays are shown in the next picture with the standing ends of the halyards tied to the stays.
 

The last picture shows all three halyards converted.
 

So, we are now back on track after a short detour.
 
Ed

Very nice coil Ed,  don't think you could get much more line on that pin.  Did you make those pins or find them somewhere?  The pins supplied with my 1:78 Cutty are totally wrong scale.  And you've probably covered this before but how do you treat your rope for coiling?
 
- Tim

Right Hof - I should have said "in relation to the jib boom end".  Longridge mentions a band or strap at the top of the bowsprit, going about the top quarter way round, that acts as a stop for the chain (to keep it from sliding down).  Longridge shows the bowsprit laying right on the false keel in this area.  The kit has the false keel dipping down forward of the knighthead.  All this butted against the knighthead as you say.  I will do the hinged jib boom band like yours.  My bowsprit will be 11/32" brass tube, so I will solder the band(s) to the bowsprit.
 
- Tim

So, research has begun in earnest.
Rather than mark up my Longridge with the 1:48 to 1:78 conversions, I started a notebook for these, and also a paper log.
 
The new build-board is done.  I will apply posts spaced at mast locations for upside down work.


Longridge (and many of you) have a gammoning chain applied.  It looks like it is centered about 5mm forward of the end of the jib boom.  Any suggestions on exactly where (on this 1:78 Manoli kit)?

I plan to also install 10/32 X 1" threaded standoffs into the keel for eventual display mounts.  And I'm considering Longridge's set screws under the mast steps for final adjustment of shroud and stay tension.  Masts will be 3/8" brass tube for main and fore masts, 11/32 for mizzen mast and bowsprit.  I must say that the K&S Precision Metal tubing is perfect for nesting sizes.  the 0.3785 fits perfectly over the 0.3465 for rings about the bowsprit and mizzen mast.  The 0.408 fits perfectly over the 0.3785 for rings etc. over the main and fore mast.  I want to get everything milled on the keel before I fix the bulkheads.  I'm wondering if rabbeting a bearding line groove on the keel for the garboard strake and the strake ends is desirable and/or necessary?
 
- Tim