MEPering

Welcome to the build, Alde.  I will be following your Glad Tidings as well.  Looks like your planking is coming along well.  I am a total noob to ship building, so all info is good info to me.
 
Matt

Salutations and welcome to my build log!
 
This is going to be an interesting experience for me.  I have never attempted a model ship before, but should probably tell you something of my modeling experience first.  This isn't my first model, though.
 
I come from the model railroad world, having scratch built around 30 structures of my own design.  Most have been from wood, but I have also made patterns and silicone molds for things like brick and cinderblock and other repetitive things like that.   Here is one example of a structure molded in resin:
 
 

 
I don't happen to have an example of a structure that I have built from wood, but I do have an example of some of my relief carving:
 

 
This is the sort of work I do on a daily basis, so I thought I would not be intimidated by the complexity of the Model Shipways model of the USS Constitution, which arrived at my door today.  I was wrong.  It looks like it is going to be an extreme challenge, and once I got over the initial shock, I started to get excited about it.  I found I had a new hobby, that is, checking parts against the parts list!  I am still not finished with that task.  But I don't see the amount of planking they included will actually do the job.  But then again, I am considering cutting my own decking from a pile of maple I have here in my workshop, so it might not be an issue.
 
The plans look absolutely excellent.  Though I would prefer a couple of sheets more, but I only spent 2 hours reviewing those, so I may have missed some things.  I have only rigged one other plastic model, so this is still intimidating, and I think a little more on that would have been good.  As for the instructions, I downloaded those a month ago from the Model Expo website, and they are a bit lacking too.  They assume you know more than you actually do, unless you are an experienced ship builder.  This is the one thing that has held me back from buying this kit for the last 10 years... They were not telling me how, but what to do. 
 
But then I found MSW, and was able to work up the courage to buy the kit.  This site is incredible.  I thank you that founded this as such a wonderful resource for those of us who never would have completed on of these incredible model, or would have even attempted one.  I thank those of you who post your build here as well.  I learned more on my first day here reading build posts than I did in a month of my own research.
 
Anyway, I shall soon be posting pics of my build, and will continue to follow others on this long trip.  I am going to try and complete the Constitution in 3 years.  I am not a fast builder, but I am a precise builder.  If you have the patience to see me through this, then we should have a complete ship then.  The woodwork should be easy for me, but the rigging still scares me to death.  We shall see how it goes, and it will be what it will be.
 
Matt
 

Mtaylor... That is good advice, but I have a ton of hard (sugar) maple scraps lying about.  And silver maple would be fine, since decking really doesn't require that much strength.
 
Q A's Revenge...  There is information out there on beveling and burnishing scrapers.  It took me a bit of practice to learn to use a scraper properly, but I do prefer the finish to sandpaper now.  But learning to get the proper burnished edge was the harder thing for me to get right.  And I agree with your comment on masonry nails too... Though I don't know how well they hold an edge, but with the wood we use, it shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Jaager...  It sounds like you might be having a couple of problems.  Perhaps your scraper is not sharp enough, perhaps you are using too much pressure on the scraper or the wood you are trying to scrape is too soft.  Soft woods can be scraped, but only very light pressure can be applied.  I did try it on a piece of basswood, and to my surprise, it worked when I used very light pressure.
 
Matt

Welcome to the build, Alde.  I will be following your Glad Tidings as well.  Looks like your planking is coming along well.  I am a total noob to ship building, so all info is good info to me.
 
Matt

Mtaylor... That is good advice, but I have a ton of hard (sugar) maple scraps lying about.  And silver maple would be fine, since decking really doesn't require that much strength.
 
Q A's Revenge...  There is information out there on beveling and burnishing scrapers.  It took me a bit of practice to learn to use a scraper properly, but I do prefer the finish to sandpaper now.  But learning to get the proper burnished edge was the harder thing for me to get right.  And I agree with your comment on masonry nails too... Though I don't know how well they hold an edge, but with the wood we use, it shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Jaager...  It sounds like you might be having a couple of problems.  Perhaps your scraper is not sharp enough, perhaps you are using too much pressure on the scraper or the wood you are trying to scrape is too soft.  Soft woods can be scraped, but only very light pressure can be applied.  I did try it on a piece of basswood, and to my surprise, it worked when I used very light pressure.
 
Matt

Salutations and welcome to my build log!
 
This is going to be an interesting experience for me.  I have never attempted a model ship before, but should probably tell you something of my modeling experience first.  This isn't my first model, though.
 
I come from the model railroad world, having scratch built around 30 structures of my own design.  Most have been from wood, but I have also made patterns and silicone molds for things like brick and cinderblock and other repetitive things like that.   Here is one example of a structure molded in resin:
 
 

 
I don't happen to have an example of a structure that I have built from wood, but I do have an example of some of my relief carving:
 

 
This is the sort of work I do on a daily basis, so I thought I would not be intimidated by the complexity of the Model Shipways model of the USS Constitution, which arrived at my door today.  I was wrong.  It looks like it is going to be an extreme challenge, and once I got over the initial shock, I started to get excited about it.  I found I had a new hobby, that is, checking parts against the parts list!  I am still not finished with that task.  But I don't see the amount of planking they included will actually do the job.  But then again, I am considering cutting my own decking from a pile of maple I have here in my workshop, so it might not be an issue.
 
The plans look absolutely excellent.  Though I would prefer a couple of sheets more, but I only spent 2 hours reviewing those, so I may have missed some things.  I have only rigged one other plastic model, so this is still intimidating, and I think a little more on that would have been good.  As for the instructions, I downloaded those a month ago from the Model Expo website, and they are a bit lacking too.  They assume you know more than you actually do, unless you are an experienced ship builder.  This is the one thing that has held me back from buying this kit for the last 10 years... They were not telling me how, but what to do. 
 
But then I found MSW, and was able to work up the courage to buy the kit.  This site is incredible.  I thank you that founded this as such a wonderful resource for those of us who never would have completed on of these incredible model, or would have even attempted one.  I thank those of you who post your build here as well.  I learned more on my first day here reading build posts than I did in a month of my own research.
 
Anyway, I shall soon be posting pics of my build, and will continue to follow others on this long trip.  I am going to try and complete the Constitution in 3 years.  I am not a fast builder, but I am a precise builder.  If you have the patience to see me through this, then we should have a complete ship then.  The woodwork should be easy for me, but the rigging still scares me to death.  We shall see how it goes, and it will be what it will be.
 
Matt
 

Mtaylor... That is good advice, but I have a ton of hard (sugar) maple scraps lying about.  And silver maple would be fine, since decking really doesn't require that much strength.
 
Q A's Revenge...  There is information out there on beveling and burnishing scrapers.  It took me a bit of practice to learn to use a scraper properly, but I do prefer the finish to sandpaper now.  But learning to get the proper burnished edge was the harder thing for me to get right.  And I agree with your comment on masonry nails too... Though I don't know how well they hold an edge, but with the wood we use, it shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Jaager...  It sounds like you might be having a couple of problems.  Perhaps your scraper is not sharp enough, perhaps you are using too much pressure on the scraper or the wood you are trying to scrape is too soft.  Soft woods can be scraped, but only very light pressure can be applied.  I did try it on a piece of basswood, and to my surprise, it worked when I used very light pressure.
 
Matt

Kurtjohnson,
 
First, my apologies for misunderstanding your question.  And for me, it depends on the job I have at hand.  As I mentioned, I work with chisels on a daily basis to build things which I sell, and one of the main tools I use in that work is a chisel.  For relief carving for instance, I will use gouges, skews, a V-gouge and straight chisels mostly.  For rapid wood removal, I tend toward your average straight chisel, but also a gouge for certain areas.  For silver wire inlay, or any wire inlay work, I have some home made chisels that work quite well.  They are home made, because nobody offers them for sale that I know of.  And yes... Old files are great steel for making chisels.
 
It sounds like your skiff house may be timber framed, and if that is the case, they use tools identical to the old shipwrights.  Large chisels that were struck with a mallet.  It really depends on the size of the job you are doing, and what you are trying to accomplish.
 
It would help if we knew what project you are thinking of approaching, and then advice might be more easily acquired.  Are you going to attempt a model ship?  If so, what scale and how are you going to have to use these chisels?  For Boxwood or Pear, they are nice woods to cut/carve, but it depends on the cutting you are attempting as to what chisel should be used.  But I am sure you already know this.  I work primarily in hard maple, and that doesn't change my chisel, but it does change the way I work compared to nice, smooth basswood or boxwood or pear.  Maple can be quite jerky in it's grain structure.
 
The main chisels I use in my work are a straight, a gouge and a skew.  That will do probably 99% of the work you need to do to build a model ship.  The smallest ones I have are about 1/16th inch across.  These are custom made by me out of 1095 steel, and heat treated.  I have another set made by Dockyard Models that are about 1/8th inch across, and they are great too.  I bought them about 20+ years ago though, so I can't vouche for their current quality, since I have never had to replace them.  I still use that same set frequently.  Besides, now that I can forge small items, I rarely buy a small chisel these days.
 
Matt

Some more content pictures:


Some photo etched brass parts:

I organized the blocks, deadeyes, and bulls eyes in these small containers:

For the wood strips, I used these plastic golf bag tubes that I got from my father. I had originally planned to use these to organize all the extra wood strips I had in the workshop, but I had to go to something that could handle more strips, which you can see in the picture after this one. I was pretty amazed that the strips just in this kit filled up these tubes.

What I use now to organize my wood supply in the shop:

As I pondered my next step in addressing the head rail structure at the bow I quickly realized that careful installing and positioning of the cat heads was needed. First I sanded then drilled the holes for the sheaves at the end of the cathead. Once the slots were hand cut they were hardened with CA. and then cleaned again   I machined the sheave axle from 1/16" brass bar having a square head. The square nuts are made from 1/64" basswood,drilled and hardened with CA. Then the eyebolts were added and the cathead painted black and green prior to installation.
 
Following are some images of my efforts.
 

The critical part was the installation making sure that both matched each other form the bow stem and rails.




 
Next to sort out the head rail structure now that the cat heads are in place.

Robboxxx, if that is what it takes, I am not too proud to do the same.  If it were a tool I expected to last, I would use better steel, but if it is something for a one-off job, there is nothing at all wrong with that,  as long as it gets the job done.  I have done it, actually.
 
I have also made scrapers to do specific jobs.  Some people don't know it these days, but scrapers used to be used rather than sandpaper for smoothing wood.  And scrapers are much faster than sandpaper, if properly formed and burnished.  And they leave a finish that is hard to describe, which sanding doesn't.  In fact, I may choose to scrape the decks of my current model rather than sand it... I will have to think on it for a while.  Basswood would not be suitable for a  scraped surface, but I am considering sugar maple for my decks.  It depends mostly if I figure out a way to not have the maple show much figure.
 
Matt

Robboxxx, if that is what it takes, I am not too proud to do the same.  If it were a tool I expected to last, I would use better steel, but if it is something for a one-off job, there is nothing at all wrong with that,  as long as it gets the job done.  I have done it, actually.
 
I have also made scrapers to do specific jobs.  Some people don't know it these days, but scrapers used to be used rather than sandpaper for smoothing wood.  And scrapers are much faster than sandpaper, if properly formed and burnished.  And they leave a finish that is hard to describe, which sanding doesn't.  In fact, I may choose to scrape the decks of my current model rather than sand it... I will have to think on it for a while.  Basswood would not be suitable for a  scraped surface, but I am considering sugar maple for my decks.  It depends mostly if I figure out a way to not have the maple show much figure.
 
Matt

Kurtjohnson,
 
First, my apologies for misunderstanding your question.  And for me, it depends on the job I have at hand.  As I mentioned, I work with chisels on a daily basis to build things which I sell, and one of the main tools I use in that work is a chisel.  For relief carving for instance, I will use gouges, skews, a V-gouge and straight chisels mostly.  For rapid wood removal, I tend toward your average straight chisel, but also a gouge for certain areas.  For silver wire inlay, or any wire inlay work, I have some home made chisels that work quite well.  They are home made, because nobody offers them for sale that I know of.  And yes... Old files are great steel for making chisels.
 
It sounds like your skiff house may be timber framed, and if that is the case, they use tools identical to the old shipwrights.  Large chisels that were struck with a mallet.  It really depends on the size of the job you are doing, and what you are trying to accomplish.
 
It would help if we knew what project you are thinking of approaching, and then advice might be more easily acquired.  Are you going to attempt a model ship?  If so, what scale and how are you going to have to use these chisels?  For Boxwood or Pear, they are nice woods to cut/carve, but it depends on the cutting you are attempting as to what chisel should be used.  But I am sure you already know this.  I work primarily in hard maple, and that doesn't change my chisel, but it does change the way I work compared to nice, smooth basswood or boxwood or pear.  Maple can be quite jerky in it's grain structure.
 
The main chisels I use in my work are a straight, a gouge and a skew.  That will do probably 99% of the work you need to do to build a model ship.  The smallest ones I have are about 1/16th inch across.  These are custom made by me out of 1095 steel, and heat treated.  I have another set made by Dockyard Models that are about 1/8th inch across, and they are great too.  I bought them about 20+ years ago though, so I can't vouche for their current quality, since I have never had to replace them.  I still use that same set frequently.  Besides, now that I can forge small items, I rarely buy a small chisel these days.
 
Matt

Matt,
 
Consider silver maple instead of surgar.  Silver seems to have very little figure.  It's look almost like holly but not as white.

Robboxxx, if that is what it takes, I am not too proud to do the same.  If it were a tool I expected to last, I would use better steel, but if it is something for a one-off job, there is nothing at all wrong with that,  as long as it gets the job done.  I have done it, actually.
 
I have also made scrapers to do specific jobs.  Some people don't know it these days, but scrapers used to be used rather than sandpaper for smoothing wood.  And scrapers are much faster than sandpaper, if properly formed and burnished.  And they leave a finish that is hard to describe, which sanding doesn't.  In fact, I may choose to scrape the decks of my current model rather than sand it... I will have to think on it for a while.  Basswood would not be suitable for a  scraped surface, but I am considering sugar maple for my decks.  It depends mostly if I figure out a way to not have the maple show much figure.
 
Matt

Kurtjohnson,
 
First, my apologies for misunderstanding your question.  And for me, it depends on the job I have at hand.  As I mentioned, I work with chisels on a daily basis to build things which I sell, and one of the main tools I use in that work is a chisel.  For relief carving for instance, I will use gouges, skews, a V-gouge and straight chisels mostly.  For rapid wood removal, I tend toward your average straight chisel, but also a gouge for certain areas.  For silver wire inlay, or any wire inlay work, I have some home made chisels that work quite well.  They are home made, because nobody offers them for sale that I know of.  And yes... Old files are great steel for making chisels.
 
It sounds like your skiff house may be timber framed, and if that is the case, they use tools identical to the old shipwrights.  Large chisels that were struck with a mallet.  It really depends on the size of the job you are doing, and what you are trying to accomplish.
 
It would help if we knew what project you are thinking of approaching, and then advice might be more easily acquired.  Are you going to attempt a model ship?  If so, what scale and how are you going to have to use these chisels?  For Boxwood or Pear, they are nice woods to cut/carve, but it depends on the cutting you are attempting as to what chisel should be used.  But I am sure you already know this.  I work primarily in hard maple, and that doesn't change my chisel, but it does change the way I work compared to nice, smooth basswood or boxwood or pear.  Maple can be quite jerky in it's grain structure.
 
The main chisels I use in my work are a straight, a gouge and a skew.  That will do probably 99% of the work you need to do to build a model ship.  The smallest ones I have are about 1/16th inch across.  These are custom made by me out of 1095 steel, and heat treated.  I have another set made by Dockyard Models that are about 1/8th inch across, and they are great too.  I bought them about 20+ years ago though, so I can't vouche for their current quality, since I have never had to replace them.  I still use that same set frequently.  Besides, now that I can forge small items, I rarely buy a small chisel these days.
 
Matt

Kurtjohnson,
 
First, my apologies for misunderstanding your question.  And for me, it depends on the job I have at hand.  As I mentioned, I work with chisels on a daily basis to build things which I sell, and one of the main tools I use in that work is a chisel.  For relief carving for instance, I will use gouges, skews, a V-gouge and straight chisels mostly.  For rapid wood removal, I tend toward your average straight chisel, but also a gouge for certain areas.  For silver wire inlay, or any wire inlay work, I have some home made chisels that work quite well.  They are home made, because nobody offers them for sale that I know of.  And yes... Old files are great steel for making chisels.
 
It sounds like your skiff house may be timber framed, and if that is the case, they use tools identical to the old shipwrights.  Large chisels that were struck with a mallet.  It really depends on the size of the job you are doing, and what you are trying to accomplish.
 
It would help if we knew what project you are thinking of approaching, and then advice might be more easily acquired.  Are you going to attempt a model ship?  If so, what scale and how are you going to have to use these chisels?  For Boxwood or Pear, they are nice woods to cut/carve, but it depends on the cutting you are attempting as to what chisel should be used.  But I am sure you already know this.  I work primarily in hard maple, and that doesn't change my chisel, but it does change the way I work compared to nice, smooth basswood or boxwood or pear.  Maple can be quite jerky in it's grain structure.
 
The main chisels I use in my work are a straight, a gouge and a skew.  That will do probably 99% of the work you need to do to build a model ship.  The smallest ones I have are about 1/16th inch across.  These are custom made by me out of 1095 steel, and heat treated.  I have another set made by Dockyard Models that are about 1/8th inch across, and they are great too.  I bought them about 20+ years ago though, so I can't vouche for their current quality, since I have never had to replace them.  I still use that same set frequently.  Besides, now that I can forge small items, I rarely buy a small chisel these days.
 
Matt

Kurtrjohson,
 
I have to concur with druxey and Jaager... It is not so much the brand, but how sharp it is honed too.  Sure, some manufacturers use a better quality steel than others, and they hold a keen edge longer, but even a cheap Chinese chisel will hold a good edge for a while, if it is honed well to begin with.  The key is to get it sharp and keep it sharp.
 
I work with wood chisels on a daily basis, not just on model ships, but on other things as well.  I am not going to mention any brand names I prefer, since there are so many out there that are made of great steel.  I probably have close to 50 chisels of various makers, shapes, and sizes.  Of course, I also various stones on which I sharpen them.  I will say that I prefer a Norton water stone for my 4000 and 8000 grits, which I also use to sharpen the straight-razors I shave with.  Also as mentioned above, get yourself a strop.  About any old piece of leather will do.  For my razor, I have a regular razor strop.  For my chisels, I have old pieces of an old leather belt glued to a board, imbedded with stropping compound. 
 
If you have carved for 25 years, I am probably telling you nothing new.  But my preference is a sharp cheap Chinese tool well honed, to an expensive Sheffield tool that is dull.
 
Matt

Kurtrjohson,
 
I have to concur with druxey and Jaager... It is not so much the brand, but how sharp it is honed too.  Sure, some manufacturers use a better quality steel than others, and they hold a keen edge longer, but even a cheap Chinese chisel will hold a good edge for a while, if it is honed well to begin with.  The key is to get it sharp and keep it sharp.
 
I work with wood chisels on a daily basis, not just on model ships, but on other things as well.  I am not going to mention any brand names I prefer, since there are so many out there that are made of great steel.  I probably have close to 50 chisels of various makers, shapes, and sizes.  Of course, I also various stones on which I sharpen them.  I will say that I prefer a Norton water stone for my 4000 and 8000 grits, which I also use to sharpen the straight-razors I shave with.  Also as mentioned above, get yourself a strop.  About any old piece of leather will do.  For my razor, I have a regular razor strop.  For my chisels, I have old pieces of an old leather belt glued to a board, imbedded with stropping compound. 
 
If you have carved for 25 years, I am probably telling you nothing new.  But my preference is a sharp cheap Chinese tool well honed, to an expensive Sheffield tool that is dull.
 
Matt

Kurtrjohson,
 
I have to concur with druxey and Jaager... It is not so much the brand, but how sharp it is honed too.  Sure, some manufacturers use a better quality steel than others, and they hold a keen edge longer, but even a cheap Chinese chisel will hold a good edge for a while, if it is honed well to begin with.  The key is to get it sharp and keep it sharp.
 
I work with wood chisels on a daily basis, not just on model ships, but on other things as well.  I am not going to mention any brand names I prefer, since there are so many out there that are made of great steel.  I probably have close to 50 chisels of various makers, shapes, and sizes.  Of course, I also various stones on which I sharpen them.  I will say that I prefer a Norton water stone for my 4000 and 8000 grits, which I also use to sharpen the straight-razors I shave with.  Also as mentioned above, get yourself a strop.  About any old piece of leather will do.  For my razor, I have a regular razor strop.  For my chisels, I have old pieces of an old leather belt glued to a board, imbedded with stropping compound. 
 
If you have carved for 25 years, I am probably telling you nothing new.  But my preference is a sharp cheap Chinese tool well honed, to an expensive Sheffield tool that is dull.
 
Matt

Kurtrjohson,
 
I have to concur with druxey and Jaager... It is not so much the brand, but how sharp it is honed too.  Sure, some manufacturers use a better quality steel than others, and they hold a keen edge longer, but even a cheap Chinese chisel will hold a good edge for a while, if it is honed well to begin with.  The key is to get it sharp and keep it sharp.
 
I work with wood chisels on a daily basis, not just on model ships, but on other things as well.  I am not going to mention any brand names I prefer, since there are so many out there that are made of great steel.  I probably have close to 50 chisels of various makers, shapes, and sizes.  Of course, I also various stones on which I sharpen them.  I will say that I prefer a Norton water stone for my 4000 and 8000 grits, which I also use to sharpen the straight-razors I shave with.  Also as mentioned above, get yourself a strop.  About any old piece of leather will do.  For my razor, I have a regular razor strop.  For my chisels, I have old pieces of an old leather belt glued to a board, imbedded with stropping compound. 
 
If you have carved for 25 years, I am probably telling you nothing new.  But my preference is a sharp cheap Chinese tool well honed, to an expensive Sheffield tool that is dull.
 
Matt

Kurtrjohson,
 
I have to concur with druxey and Jaager... It is not so much the brand, but how sharp it is honed too.  Sure, some manufacturers use a better quality steel than others, and they hold a keen edge longer, but even a cheap Chinese chisel will hold a good edge for a while, if it is honed well to begin with.  The key is to get it sharp and keep it sharp.
 
I work with wood chisels on a daily basis, not just on model ships, but on other things as well.  I am not going to mention any brand names I prefer, since there are so many out there that are made of great steel.  I probably have close to 50 chisels of various makers, shapes, and sizes.  Of course, I also various stones on which I sharpen them.  I will say that I prefer a Norton water stone for my 4000 and 8000 grits, which I also use to sharpen the straight-razors I shave with.  Also as mentioned above, get yourself a strop.  About any old piece of leather will do.  For my razor, I have a regular razor strop.  For my chisels, I have old pieces of an old leather belt glued to a board, imbedded with stropping compound. 
 
If you have carved for 25 years, I am probably telling you nothing new.  But my preference is a sharp cheap Chinese tool well honed, to an expensive Sheffield tool that is dull.
 
Matt