Bender

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

Ian, Frank, Don, and Red:
Thanks for your kind words and for looking in on this log.
 
Don,
D-construction has happen a lot on this build. I have mentioned a few cases but not all. If one were to look back at the "in process" decking of the bridge deck and then look at the finished bridge deck, you could see that the hatch is in a different location. I'm still,trying to figure out where my head was when I was planning out this.
 
I've finished all the vertical reinforcement timbers and finished the railing on the forecastle. I used a thicker piece of wood for this top rail with plans in my head for some added details later. Also, the middle balusters on both sides of the forecastle railing are not supposed to connected to the vertical reinforcement timbers. Again, this is part of plans to a few added details later. I'll point out this change below in the pictures.
 
These first two pictures show all the progress as a whole.
 

 

 
The two small horizontal rails below the thicker top railing is supposed to be attached on the outside of the balusters as it is on the backside of the forecastle railing. On The left and right sides you can see I've inset the small horizontal rails on the inside of the balusters. This was needed because of changing the shape of the balusters.
 

 
The picture below better shows the inset small rails. Also notice the five vertical timbers.
 

 
The plans show only the first and fifth vertical timbers and balusters as one piece. As you can see I made all five as one piece.
 

 
 

 
The curved pieces are also different. The plans show these pieces being curved 90 degrees where I cut them with a 180 degree curve.

 

 
This pictures shows the thick upper rail. I used a piece twice as thick as the plans called for.
 

 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the plans as they are. All of these little changes are just me chasing wild ideas.

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

I need to repost the first picture in the last post. It seems to have been cropped.

The building continues but at a slow pace. I'm still making the vertical reinforcement timbers.
 
These pieces go on the forecastle.
 

 
I needed to remove a vertical piece I had attached earlier. You can see the scuffed planks at the front edge of the forecastle.
 

 
It is alway "fun" trying to figure out a way to clamp each piece.
 

 
I also needed a curved piece. I tried to make it out of walnut, but the walnut kept snapping. I had some boxwood. I'm always amazed at how easy It is working with boxwood. I made one piece wide enough for the two pieces I needed.
 

 
And then cut the two pieces to the size I needed.
 

 
 

 
Here's how it looks now
 

 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

It seems like the rail would be high enough, but I guess these guys didn't want a sea monster climbing on board. This rail sits on top of the bridge deck railing. These are the rails at the left and right edge of the next picture.
 

 
and the top edge of this picture.
 

 
Each post leans in toward the center line. See the top picture. And sits vertical on the top rail that runs at a slope. See second picture. The Byrnes saw does not have a tilting blade, so I came up with this way of cutting the needed compound miter.
 
By placing this piece against the t-slide and holding the 4X4 Tilted back against this piece at 45*, and setting the t-slide at 73*, I was able to get compound angle.

 
I Used a spacer between the 4X4 and the saw fence to keep the cut piece from wedging between the blade and the fence and flying away.

 
You can see the gap between the piece and the fence.

 
I needed 14 posts but cut 25 pieces.

 
After cutting the 25 pieces, I needed to cut two slots in each post to except the horizontal rails.
Here the blade is 1.5 mm high.

 
My fingers were very close to the blade when I cut the slots. I couldn't get an actual picture of me cutting these pieces. By using the wood piece against the t-slide, I was able to keep my finger further from the blade than this picture shows.

 
Here is what the slots look like. I also drilled a hole in the bottom of each post and glued in a brass pin.

 

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

Ian, Frank, Don, and Red:
Thanks for your kind words and for looking in on this log.
 
Don,
D-construction has happen a lot on this build. I have mentioned a few cases but not all. If one were to look back at the "in process" decking of the bridge deck and then look at the finished bridge deck, you could see that the hatch is in a different location. I'm still,trying to figure out where my head was when I was planning out this.
 
I've finished all the vertical reinforcement timbers and finished the railing on the forecastle. I used a thicker piece of wood for this top rail with plans in my head for some added details later. Also, the middle balusters on both sides of the forecastle railing are not supposed to connected to the vertical reinforcement timbers. Again, this is part of plans to a few added details later. I'll point out this change below in the pictures.
 
These first two pictures show all the progress as a whole.
 

 

 
The two small horizontal rails below the thicker top railing is supposed to be attached on the outside of the balusters as it is on the backside of the forecastle railing. On The left and right sides you can see I've inset the small horizontal rails on the inside of the balusters. This was needed because of changing the shape of the balusters.
 

 
The picture below better shows the inset small rails. Also notice the five vertical timbers.
 

 
The plans show only the first and fifth vertical timbers and balusters as one piece. As you can see I made all five as one piece.
 

 
 

 
The curved pieces are also different. The plans show these pieces being curved 90 degrees where I cut them with a 180 degree curve.

 

 
This pictures shows the thick upper rail. I used a piece twice as thick as the plans called for.
 

 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the plans as they are. All of these little changes are just me chasing wild ideas.

I need to repost the first picture in the last post. It seems to have been cropped.

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

Ian, Frank, Don, and Red:
Thanks for your kind words and for looking in on this log.
 
Don,
D-construction has happen a lot on this build. I have mentioned a few cases but not all. If one were to look back at the "in process" decking of the bridge deck and then look at the finished bridge deck, you could see that the hatch is in a different location. I'm still,trying to figure out where my head was when I was planning out this.
 
I've finished all the vertical reinforcement timbers and finished the railing on the forecastle. I used a thicker piece of wood for this top rail with plans in my head for some added details later. Also, the middle balusters on both sides of the forecastle railing are not supposed to connected to the vertical reinforcement timbers. Again, this is part of plans to a few added details later. I'll point out this change below in the pictures.
 
These first two pictures show all the progress as a whole.
 

 

 
The two small horizontal rails below the thicker top railing is supposed to be attached on the outside of the balusters as it is on the backside of the forecastle railing. On The left and right sides you can see I've inset the small horizontal rails on the inside of the balusters. This was needed because of changing the shape of the balusters.
 

 
The picture below better shows the inset small rails. Also notice the five vertical timbers.
 

 
The plans show only the first and fifth vertical timbers and balusters as one piece. As you can see I made all five as one piece.
 

 
 

 
The curved pieces are also different. The plans show these pieces being curved 90 degrees where I cut them with a 180 degree curve.

 

 
This pictures shows the thick upper rail. I used a piece twice as thick as the plans called for.
 

 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the plans as they are. All of these little changes are just me chasing wild ideas.

Ian, Frank, Don, and Red:
Thanks for your kind words and for looking in on this log.
 
Don,
D-construction has happen a lot on this build. I have mentioned a few cases but not all. If one were to look back at the "in process" decking of the bridge deck and then look at the finished bridge deck, you could see that the hatch is in a different location. I'm still,trying to figure out where my head was when I was planning out this.
 
I've finished all the vertical reinforcement timbers and finished the railing on the forecastle. I used a thicker piece of wood for this top rail with plans in my head for some added details later. Also, the middle balusters on both sides of the forecastle railing are not supposed to connected to the vertical reinforcement timbers. Again, this is part of plans to a few added details later. I'll point out this change below in the pictures.
 
These first two pictures show all the progress as a whole.
 

 

 
The two small horizontal rails below the thicker top railing is supposed to be attached on the outside of the balusters as it is on the backside of the forecastle railing. On The left and right sides you can see I've inset the small horizontal rails on the inside of the balusters. This was needed because of changing the shape of the balusters.
 

 
The picture below better shows the inset small rails. Also notice the five vertical timbers.
 

 
The plans show only the first and fifth vertical timbers and balusters as one piece. As you can see I made all five as one piece.
 

 
 

 
The curved pieces are also different. The plans show these pieces being curved 90 degrees where I cut them with a 180 degree curve.

 

 
This pictures shows the thick upper rail. I used a piece twice as thick as the plans called for.
 

 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the plans as they are. All of these little changes are just me chasing wild ideas.

Hi Don. I have been playing around with linseed oil. I like how it looks on this light colored walnut. I've never used it before so I need to read up on some how tos.
 
I started attaching the top gallant rails.
 

 

 

 

 
I need to add some explanation here. The plans did not have the top gallant rail curving up from horizontal on the bulwark to vertical up the back side of the forecastle and font side the bridge deck.
 
The plans had the rail running parallel to the main deck between the fore castle and bridge deck. And then once the rail was in place, breakwaters were placed on top of the rail and against the forecastle.
 

 
I had a hard time matching the mitered edges while attaching this rail on the aft deck, so I glued the edges together first. It was much easier this way.
 

 

 
Sometimes you just have to stop and clean up the mess.
 

Thanks Mark, Red and Don for looking in and for your comments, and thanks all for all the "likes"
 
Here are some pictures I took while building the head.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am almost finished with the planking.
 
The aft end needed to be finished and shaped first. I didn't take a picture when I finished planking the aft end, but here is a picture as it sits now.
 
 

 
I started at the aft side rail and worked my way down.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It has been a few years since I have started a build log or worked on a model ship. There are many things I will need to re-learn. I noticed the ad banner for Marisstella Models on Model Ships World's home page and found this model of a Ragusian Carrack. I emailed the company, and Zoran Pavlocic' replied. The process went smoothly. I ordered and paid by PayPal, and 12 days later the mailman dropped off the package.
 

 
The model box was packaged inside a sturdy cardboard box.
All the material is top quality. I'm very impressed.
 

 

 

 
The sails have already been stitched.
 

 
Directions are in English
 
.
 
The building will start tonight, and I will have pictures tomorrow. It looks like I need to learn how to take pictures with my iPhone.

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.
 

I am posting my attempt at carving. The kit came with a laser cut sun, but I butchered it badly. This is my third attempt.
 
I copied the image and glued it onto a piece on boxwood.
 

 
Here a picture to show its size.
 

 
I first drilled holes at the base of the sun rays. It seemed to make it easier to stop at the correct spot when band sawing. I used three sizes of bits.
 

 
I then took out a little wood with a bandsaw.
 

 
Then I shaped the sun rays with a small bench belt sander.
 

 

 
I rounded the face.
 

 
I tried to carve the face by using the paper as a pattern, but it didn't work. I ended up needing to draw the face. I cannot draw.
 

 
The is about three hours in.
 

 
And this is the final result.