RGL
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the pointy end, the Bow scrolling seems very ornate, and the kit left it on, which is clumsy and quite ugly. the eduard fret offers a nice bit of PE to attach, so the Bow was scraped down before painting for this purpose. It is not as ornate as the real thing but sometimes less is more.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
A couple of updates. the stern on the real thing has the Russian eagle, the kits and Kagero book make no reference to it. The North Star models aftermarket fret has a couple, so I added the smaller one to the stern walk. I also added the nameplates, it is the only inaccurate thing so far but I just love them. I painted them white then scraped the letters back to brass.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Back to the Hull, the brass portholes. I wanted them to stand out so I have left them off to date, and after 2 hours I have gotten the Starboard side done. They are tiny and have to be cut from the fret to trim them. Applied with one of my kids colour pencils as it is the only thing that won't get stuck on the CA.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Back to the Hull, the brass portholes. I wanted them to stand out so I have left them off to date, and after 2 hours I have gotten the Starboard side done. They are tiny and have to be cut from the fret to trim them. Applied with one of my kids colour pencils as it is the only thing that won't get stuck on the CA.
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RGL got a reaction from Old Collingwood in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Back to the Hull, the brass portholes. I wanted them to stand out so I have left them off to date, and after 2 hours I have gotten the Starboard side done. They are tiny and have to be cut from the fret to trim them. Applied with one of my kids colour pencils as it is the only thing that won't get stuck on the CA.
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RGL got a reaction from Jason in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Back to the Hull, the brass portholes. I wanted them to stand out so I have left them off to date, and after 2 hours I have gotten the Starboard side done. They are tiny and have to be cut from the fret to trim them. Applied with one of my kids colour pencils as it is the only thing that won't get stuck on the CA.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
My first attempt at masking ever. I used a Tamiya rattle can with tamiya mask. A little bit of overspray but there are that many protruding bits above the waterline, when I reverse the mask to pain it white above the waterline it should work fine.
I think I'll leave it 24 hours to let it set as hard as possible.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
First primer coat (well, I did do a layer and found a huge gap in the Bilge Keels which needed fixing). So many sins.
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RGL got a reaction from popeye the sailor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Deck fittings and netting. There are a heap of very small pieces that need to be affixed to the deck, and they all require to be the colour black. Instead of painting, I used the Krick blackening agent so as not to lose the details under paint. There are little bit of netting that need to go onto the hull, which appear to be grates that go in front of the barrels for cleaning.
The base of the bollards and also the base of the turret rings are also in this lot. A boring post but it will make sense eventually.
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RGL got a reaction from Old Collingwood in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Deck fittings and netting. There are a heap of very small pieces that need to be affixed to the deck, and they all require to be the colour black. Instead of painting, I used the Krick blackening agent so as not to lose the details under paint. There are little bit of netting that need to go onto the hull, which appear to be grates that go in front of the barrels for cleaning.
The base of the bollards and also the base of the turret rings are also in this lot. A boring post but it will make sense eventually.
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RGL got a reaction from Captain Slog in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Deck fittings and netting. There are a heap of very small pieces that need to be affixed to the deck, and they all require to be the colour black. Instead of painting, I used the Krick blackening agent so as not to lose the details under paint. There are little bit of netting that need to go onto the hull, which appear to be grates that go in front of the barrels for cleaning.
The base of the bollards and also the base of the turret rings are also in this lot. A boring post but it will make sense eventually.
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RGL got a reaction from Canute in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Deck fittings and netting. There are a heap of very small pieces that need to be affixed to the deck, and they all require to be the colour black. Instead of painting, I used the Krick blackening agent so as not to lose the details under paint. There are little bit of netting that need to go onto the hull, which appear to be grates that go in front of the barrels for cleaning.
The base of the bollards and also the base of the turret rings are also in this lot. A boring post but it will make sense eventually.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from Old Collingwood in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from docidle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from dgbot in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from mtaylor in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from ccoyle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
My first attempt at masking ever. I used a Tamiya rattle can with tamiya mask. A little bit of overspray but there are that many protruding bits above the waterline, when I reverse the mask to pain it white above the waterline it should work fine.
I think I'll leave it 24 hours to let it set as hard as possible.
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RGL got a reaction from Canute in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
Now the top layer. Nice strait line. There are a few errors above the line that I just cannot fix without a complete strip of the paint. I'm getting an airbrush again I think, much more accurate than the rattle can.
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RGL got a reaction from Old Collingwood in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
My first attempt at masking ever. I used a Tamiya rattle can with tamiya mask. A little bit of overspray but there are that many protruding bits above the waterline, when I reverse the mask to pain it white above the waterline it should work fine.
I think I'll leave it 24 hours to let it set as hard as possible.
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RGL got a reaction from RRLittle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
First primer coat (well, I did do a layer and found a huge gap in the Bilge Keels which needed fixing). So many sins.
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RGL got a reaction from docidle in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
My first attempt at masking ever. I used a Tamiya rattle can with tamiya mask. A little bit of overspray but there are that many protruding bits above the waterline, when I reverse the mask to pain it white above the waterline it should work fine.
I think I'll leave it 24 hours to let it set as hard as possible.
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RGL got a reaction from Captain Slog in VARYAG by RGL -FINISHED - Artwox - 1/350 - Plastic, resin and photoetch - Protected Cruiser
My first attempt at masking ever. I used a Tamiya rattle can with tamiya mask. A little bit of overspray but there are that many protruding bits above the waterline, when I reverse the mask to pain it white above the waterline it should work fine.
I think I'll leave it 24 hours to let it set as hard as possible.
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