Sunsanvil
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Microwaving the wood?
I'm approaching the point in my build where I'm going to be doing my first bending of wood. I'm in Canada, the house is sealed up tight for the coming winter, and as such a kettle or pot of perpetually boiling water is a big no-no (mold and mildew).
I read that the microwave might be a vaible option for me. Does anyone have any experience they can share? Soak the wood first? Wrap it in wet paper towel? Roughly how many seconds/minutes to start with?
Thanks.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
Just be sure to unplug it when not in use. There is a youtube about the blower element turning on, even when the unit is switched off, due to a failed triac.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Microwaving the wood?
I'm approaching the point in my build where I'm going to be doing my first bending of wood. I'm in Canada, the house is sealed up tight for the coming winter, and as such a kettle or pot of perpetually boiling water is a big no-no (mold and mildew).
I read that the microwave might be a vaible option for me. Does anyone have any experience they can share? Soak the wood first? Wrap it in wet paper towel? Roughly how many seconds/minutes to start with?
Thanks.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Bending with heat only
Just be sure to unplug it when not in use. There is a youtube about the blower element turning on, even when the unit is switched off, due to a failed triac.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Building frame is just about ready. Keel is ready, rabbet carved.
What to do about this abomination...
Is the consensus to put it on the inside and hide it with stowage? I don't have the right material to make my own.
I'm a little confused about carving the taper at the stem. Concave, convex, othe...?
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks Cap'n. I was inclined to just use the false keel as is but thought it best to ask. It occurred to me though that it does mean the top of the center frame will be ever so slightly off kilter, probably by only 0.5mm, relative to the stem and stern, but on an 18" model made of wood which is going to change and shift over the course of the build anyway, perhaps a non issue?
As for CA, I actually like using it for certain things but a big long keel like that, to me, is asking for trouble: apply the thin CA without the two halves being perfectly perfectly flat and one might just end up locking in a warp.
Thinking ahead to the frames, it strikes me that, where they are all nicely marked for the sheer tabs/guides, would I not be wise to leave the sheer tabs off until after fairing of the frames? They have to be faired past the tabs anyway and that would be a lot easier if the tabs weren't there at the time....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Except the fairing guides on the few which have then end up on the wrong side. Not a big deal but seems like an oversight in the design/instructions...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Finally getting back to this and have my building frame ready to assemble. The instructions are very clear, in several places, that the shear tabs should face forward on molds 9-15 and rearward on 1-8. But doing so means that the dotted fairing guide lines on 1-3 and 15 are on the wrong side. Just short sighted design?
I've laminated the real keel and stem parts and scarf joined them. Lines up perfect with the plans at the bow but I notice that the whole thing is shorter than what is on the plans by about 1/8". The frame notches do not all line up with what is on the plans but do line up with molds on the false keel though so I'm thinking its the printout which is wrong....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks Cap'n. I was inclined to just use the false keel as is but thought it best to ask. It occurred to me though that it does mean the top of the center frame will be ever so slightly off kilter, probably by only 0.5mm, relative to the stem and stern, but on an 18" model made of wood which is going to change and shift over the course of the build anyway, perhaps a non issue?
As for CA, I actually like using it for certain things but a big long keel like that, to me, is asking for trouble: apply the thin CA without the two halves being perfectly perfectly flat and one might just end up locking in a warp.
Thinking ahead to the frames, it strikes me that, where they are all nicely marked for the sheer tabs/guides, would I not be wise to leave the sheer tabs off until after fairing of the frames? They have to be faired past the tabs anyway and that would be a lot easier if the tabs weren't there at the time....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Jeff59 in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Farbror Fartyg in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from -Dallen in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from riverboat in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from popeye the sailor in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mrshanks in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from CDW in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Ryland Craze in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Finally getting back to this and have my building frame ready to assemble. The instructions are very clear, in several places, that the shear tabs should face forward on molds 9-15 and rearward on 1-8. But doing so means that the dotted fairing guide lines on 1-3 and 15 are on the wrong side. Just short sighted design?
I've laminated the real keel and stem parts and scarf joined them. Lines up perfect with the plans at the bow but I notice that the whole thing is shorter than what is on the plans by about 1/8". The frame notches do not all line up with what is on the plans but do line up with molds on the false keel though so I'm thinking its the printout which is wrong....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Old Collingwood in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Jealous!
Have you considered adding....
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
If you are daring, and have access to an airbrush, I would actually try painting the parts the base blue, then using the airbrush paint a lightened mixture, at least 20% white, only in the middle area of each panel or facet which is what we do a lot in scale models to create a subjectively more realistic appearance).
If you look at the side of my Tiger tank, or any of the Mobile Suits, you can see what I mean.
https://thesunsanvil.wordpress.com/
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Yes that's a fairly well documented, but not widely considered phenomenon in scale modeling.
Its kind of funny because you have the military modelers especially who are obsessed with getting THE EXACT shade of whatever for the bt109, Corsair, Tiger Tank, Russian uniform, whatever.....but then lament that it appears to the naked eye subjectively too dark.
Someone actually had a cheat sheet of how much white to add to a color at various scales to compensate.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
If you are daring, and have access to an airbrush, I would actually try painting the parts the base blue, then using the airbrush paint a lightened mixture, at least 20% white, only in the middle area of each panel or facet which is what we do a lot in scale models to create a subjectively more realistic appearance).
If you look at the side of my Tiger tank, or any of the Mobile Suits, you can see what I mean.
https://thesunsanvil.wordpress.com/
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Yes that's a fairly well documented, but not widely considered phenomenon in scale modeling.
Its kind of funny because you have the military modelers especially who are obsessed with getting THE EXACT shade of whatever for the bt109, Corsair, Tiger Tank, Russian uniform, whatever.....but then lament that it appears to the naked eye subjectively too dark.
Someone actually had a cheat sheet of how much white to add to a color at various scales to compensate.
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