Sunsanvil
-
Posts
83 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
If you are daring, and have access to an airbrush, I would actually try painting the parts the base blue, then using the airbrush paint a lightened mixture, at least 20% white, only in the middle area of each panel or facet which is what we do a lot in scale models to create a subjectively more realistic appearance).
If you look at the side of my Tiger tank, or any of the Mobile Suits, you can see what I mean.
https://thesunsanvil.wordpress.com/
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Yes that's a fairly well documented, but not widely considered phenomenon in scale modeling.
Its kind of funny because you have the military modelers especially who are obsessed with getting THE EXACT shade of whatever for the bt109, Corsair, Tiger Tank, Russian uniform, whatever.....but then lament that it appears to the naked eye subjectively too dark.
Someone actually had a cheat sheet of how much white to add to a color at various scales to compensate.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Yes that's a fairly well documented, but not widely considered phenomenon in scale modeling.
Its kind of funny because you have the military modelers especially who are obsessed with getting THE EXACT shade of whatever for the bt109, Corsair, Tiger Tank, Russian uniform, whatever.....but then lament that it appears to the naked eye subjectively too dark.
Someone actually had a cheat sheet of how much white to add to a color at various scales to compensate.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from EJ_L in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
If you are daring, and have access to an airbrush, I would actually try painting the parts the base blue, then using the airbrush paint a lightened mixture, at least 20% white, only in the middle area of each panel or facet which is what we do a lot in scale models to create a subjectively more realistic appearance).
If you look at the side of my Tiger tank, or any of the Mobile Suits, you can see what I mean.
https://thesunsanvil.wordpress.com/
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from WackoWolf in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Yes that's a fairly well documented, but not widely considered phenomenon in scale modeling.
Its kind of funny because you have the military modelers especially who are obsessed with getting THE EXACT shade of whatever for the bt109, Corsair, Tiger Tank, Russian uniform, whatever.....but then lament that it appears to the naked eye subjectively too dark.
Someone actually had a cheat sheet of how much white to add to a color at various scales to compensate.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from WackoWolf in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
If you are daring, and have access to an airbrush, I would actually try painting the parts the base blue, then using the airbrush paint a lightened mixture, at least 20% white, only in the middle area of each panel or facet which is what we do a lot in scale models to create a subjectively more realistic appearance).
If you look at the side of my Tiger tank, or any of the Mobile Suits, you can see what I mean.
https://thesunsanvil.wordpress.com/
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Steam Bending
These look cool! What is your steam source? A tube connected to a kettle of water or something more sophisticated?
-
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Steam Bending
These look cool! What is your steam source? A tube connected to a kettle of water or something more sophisticated?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Not necessarily. LiPo has taken off in the RC hobby mainly because of the power-to-weight ratio which is critical for flight applications. It would be impossible to do all the micro helicopters, planes, and drones without it. That said, I avoid them whenever possible as they can be much more temperamental. For terrestrial, where weight is not as great an issue, I still like good old NiMh battery tech.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from aydingocer in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Not necessarily. LiPo has taken off in the RC hobby mainly because of the power-to-weight ratio which is critical for flight applications. It would be impossible to do all the micro helicopters, planes, and drones without it. That said, I avoid them whenever possible as they can be much more temperamental. For terrestrial, where weight is not as great an issue, I still like good old NiMh battery tech.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Robin Lous in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Well, I've finally had time to reset the modelling table and start this project. I feel very confident with the overall process but already have some wood related questions.
Here is my false keel:
Sorry for the poor light. What l'm trying to show is that at the top edge (the one resting against the strait edge), is out of true by, litterally, 1mm (gap between it and the strait edge at the mid point). I have no idea if that's crazy unaceptable or within normal wood tolerances at this size and scale. The bottom edge is perfect. I've read about soaking and clamping parts such as this to strait edges etc but I really wonder if I mightn't make it worse rather than better.
The other starting question is on laminating the two keel halves.
The instructions caution against using wood glue, suggesting instead CA/super glue but I'd rather not the later if possible. If one is judicious with the amount of wood glue, and weight it down against a perfectly flat surface, is there that much danger of warpage?
Also wondering if someone can suggest a good set of files? The ones I have now are too fine. Great for plastic, but no good for shaping wood.
Thanks all....
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Well, I've finally had time to reset the modelling table and start this project. I feel very confident with the overall process but already have some wood related questions.
Here is my false keel:
Sorry for the poor light. What l'm trying to show is that at the top edge (the one resting against the strait edge), is out of true by, litterally, 1mm (gap between it and the strait edge at the mid point). I have no idea if that's crazy unaceptable or within normal wood tolerances at this size and scale. The bottom edge is perfect. I've read about soaking and clamping parts such as this to strait edges etc but I really wonder if I mightn't make it worse rather than better.
The other starting question is on laminating the two keel halves.
The instructions caution against using wood glue, suggesting instead CA/super glue but I'd rather not the later if possible. If one is judicious with the amount of wood glue, and weight it down against a perfectly flat surface, is there that much danger of warpage?
Also wondering if someone can suggest a good set of files? The ones I have now are too fine. Great for plastic, but no good for shaping wood.
Thanks all....
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Great build log. I've read through it like 3 times now and am subscribed. Very inspirational. I've put this kit on my bucket list now (since I will likely never ever see a real one, let alone ride in one...never mind owning one ).
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from WackoWolf in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Great build log. I've read through it like 3 times now and am subscribed. Very inspirational. I've put this kit on my bucket list now (since I will likely never ever see a real one, let alone ride in one...never mind owning one ).
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from aydingocer in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Great build log. I've read through it like 3 times now and am subscribed. Very inspirational. I've put this kit on my bucket list now (since I will likely never ever see a real one, let alone ride in one...never mind owning one ).
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from cog in Riva Aquarama by aydingocer - FINISHED - Amati - RADIO - A new challenge for a so-far static ship builder
Great build log. I've read through it like 3 times now and am subscribed. Very inspirational. I've put this kit on my bucket list now (since I will likely never ever see a real one, let alone ride in one...never mind owning one ).
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Bounty Launch by Canute - Model Shipways - 1/16 - Small
Just taking this one out of the box myself. Gone over the instructions 20 times. Can you see any reason why a person couldn't add the shear guide tabs after fairing the bulkheads? I'm thinking that would make fairing easier since you have to go beyond the tabs anyway.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Coverage question?
More than you'd think, as long as you're not wasteful. Airbrushing, despite the overspray, is actually a very efficient application of paint. That said, a 1:200 Bis has a lot of area to paint. A 22ml bottle of unthinned paint might just do you for the hull red but in terms of primer and other greys I'm guessing you are going to need more.
Only reference I can give is that of a 18ml bottle of pr-thinned Valejo ModelAir lasting me three 1:35 tanks or 1:32 aircraft.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in gluing pre-stained wood
Does pre-staining wood with something like Minwax prior to assembly have any effect on the efficacy of normal wood (carpenter's) glue?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Oar locks on MSW Bounty Launch
Does the position of the oarlocks on this one seem a bit odd to any one? Seems they are positioned for rowers to face forward and push-row.....
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in gluing pre-stained wood
Does pre-staining wood with something like Minwax prior to assembly have any effect on the efficacy of normal wood (carpenter's) glue?
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from vossy in Coverage question?
More than you'd think, as long as you're not wasteful. Airbrushing, despite the overspray, is actually a very efficient application of paint. That said, a 1:200 Bis has a lot of area to paint. A 22ml bottle of unthinned paint might just do you for the hull red but in terms of primer and other greys I'm guessing you are going to need more.
Only reference I can give is that of a 18ml bottle of pr-thinned Valejo ModelAir lasting me three 1:35 tanks or 1:32 aircraft.
-
Sunsanvil reacted to Jaager in gluing pre-stained wood
A wood dye should have no effect on a PVA bond. A stain is a surface coat - similar to paint - it would depend on the specific product - but there is a chance that a bond may fail because the stain seals the wood pores and blocks penetration of the glue polymers.
Your best bet is to do the experiment on scrap wood and determine the effect. The stain manufacturer could have altered the formulation and if someone had an answer from years ago, it may not apply to your situation.
-
Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Coverage question?
More than you'd think, as long as you're not wasteful. Airbrushing, despite the overspray, is actually a very efficient application of paint. That said, a 1:200 Bis has a lot of area to paint. A 22ml bottle of unthinned paint might just do you for the hull red but in terms of primer and other greys I'm guessing you are going to need more.
Only reference I can give is that of a 18ml bottle of pr-thinned Valejo ModelAir lasting me three 1:35 tanks or 1:32 aircraft.
Our Emblem ®
