Tigersteve

Looks beautiful. Love the presentation. 
Steve

Fantastic!
Steve

Good morning everyone, these are the last photos I am putting up of the Requin, I have finished this beautiful model that has occupied me for almost 6 years. I wanted to thank all of you who have intervened in my construction site over time, thank you very much and see you for the start of a new model.

@BobG
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the positive affirmation.

I would also like to thank you for the many LIKES.
 
Continued: Equipment of the big yard - Blocks for buntlines and clewlines - Poulies de cargue fond et poulies de bouline
According to the relevant table in the monograph, the blocks for the buntlines and clewlines are only 3.4 mm long and 1.3 mm thick at a scale of 1:48. With this block size, the sheaves with a thickness of d= 0.5 mm are not used separately, but worked out. In total I need 12 blocks for the main yard and fore yard.
Before I start "series production", I made a "prototype" in the usual way and equipped it with a served strop. The eye is used to attach to the jackstay.

 
In the following image I have shown different block types and sizes compared to a block for a buntlines.

The next picture shows how these blocks are attached to the jackstay by means of tying.

Sequel follows …

Cross-jack yard, mizzen and topsail mizzen yard.

Hung the first whale boat. Four more to go.  

I added the keelson today.  This is made up from 4 laser cut lengths.   There are probably many ways to attack this.  But I decided to assemble all 4 pieces first.  There are scarph joints between each length.   Then I sanded it clean of laser char.   It may be hard to see below but I also drew a reference line down the center of the keelson.   This is where the bolts will go.  It was easier to mark the center of this 3/8" wide keelson now instead of when its on the model.  I used a compass opened to 3/16" with a pencil on one side.  I handy tool to have around.
 


I test fit it on the model.  The shape is so specific to each model after inboard that yes I had to tweak the bottom of the keelson and the bottom of the hull inboard to get a good fit in places.  I used various riflers and sanding sticks to match the curve and shape of the keelson as closely as possible.  Then the bolts were added.  I used 30 pound black fishing line.   One bolt goes every other frame.  This is except for the scarph joints which get two bolts.  Now the inboard side of the hull is completed for now.  Its nice and clean.   I can now return to planking the outboard side of the hull.
 

Thanks Matt and Glenn. Also thanks for all the likes and advice throughout this wonderful build.
 
A special thanks goes out to Chuck for putting together such fantastic model!
I started this adventure back on September 30, 2019. It has been a great learning experience. I got to watch some very nice Winnies being built. Enjoyed the comradery and friendship from so many of you who have the same passion as I do.
 
Well, the lantern has been completed and added to the stern and with that my version of the Winchelsea is finished.


Again, thank you for stopping by and most of all for your support, guidance and friendship!

Once I shaped the and sanded the proper sheer it was time to add the fairing cap.   I did in fact sand the top of the sheer as Greg describes.  Either a side to side sanding with the stick posted in the last update or by holding the stick on one side as a pivot.  Then sanding on the opposite side with the stick moving it in an arch fore and aft.  
 
The fairing cap will now be added.  This serves two purposes and I discovered with the Winnie project that this is a great design element to help me when fairing inboard.
 
First it establishes a consistent width along the entire sheer.  It will be hard to screw that up as long as I dont sand into the strip.  The fairing cap is 5/32" wide.
 
In addition,  the fairing cap is glued to the top of each frame which really strengthens the hull.  There is no wiggle in any of the frames as you fair inboard or out.
 
There are 2 sections of fairing cap for the waist.   I added the forward piece first (#1)...then the aft section (#2).   These must be added first because a hance piece sits on top of the forward length.  We will add that later.  These are labeled #1 and #2 on the laser cut sheet.  When gluing these on the outside edge is flush with the outboard framing which should already be faired.  You can see below what remains inboard to be faired.  The only fairing I have done inboard up to this point is whatever I managed to get done progressively after raising a half dozen frames.  I had reached inside under those cross jigs to at least get rid of the heavy stuff.  But the cant frames are virtually untouched.
 
The qdeck fairing cap (#3) needs to be beveled on the aft end to sit flush against the transom.   The bow section of fairing cap is self explanatory.   Just make sure its flush with the outboard framing for all four of these pieces.   Then you will know exactly how much material you need to remove inboard.   
 


In this photo after the fairing cap was added,  the two hance pieces were added at the bow.  You can see how it sits on top of the waist fairing cap.  Also check out the framing plan for clarity.  Its at the break in the waist up to the fcastle sheer.   A scroll will be added much later after we finish planking everything.
 

I originally thought that I would need to wait until all the outboard planking was completed before I could fair inboard.  But the hull seems so strong with the fairing caps glued on so I just decided to go for it.
 
The gull has now been completely faired inboard...or about 98% there.   There are still some areas that will require some "noodling".  But I really wanted to get this done because it makes so much dust and its a pain in the butt.  I started with 60 grit sandpaper to get rid of the heavy steps from frame to frame.  Then I switched to 150 grit and then to 120 grit.  Remember when you are doing this NOT to reduce the fairing cap.  Its inevitable that you may hit it from time to time and you may remove the laser char but try and keep the width of the sheer as consistent as you can.   The fairing cap helps you do this.  Here is a picture after finishing up the inboard fairing.  Now I can return to the outboard planking with a much cleaner hull. Although I am compelled to add the keelson first just to make the inboard area even cleaner.   Its nice NOT to have to look at all that unkempt framing and laser char.  It cleaned up rather well dont you think?  
 

So after the 3 strakes of the wales were completed,  I started working my way towards the sheer.  There are five more 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   So far I have added two of them.   I wouldn't normally post an update for simply two strakes of progress.  But in this case its good to point out a few things.
 
First, with five strakes now on both sides I think the hull is sufficiently solid to remove all of the cross jigs along the top of the model.   But I could very well have just kept going.  But above this last strake is where you have to start notching the planking around the port opening and sweep ports.  So I thought this was as good a time as any to remove those jigs.
 
In addition,  I would note that on many ships the planking above the wales is pretty straight forward.  There is no real tapering of the strakes at the bow or stern.  So you can more or less just use planking strips all the same width (in this case 7/32" wide).   But for Speedwell,   these five 7/32" wide strakes do in fact taper at the bow.   At least they should if you want the end up with a proper run of your sheer.  As you can see below.
 

These five 7/32" wide strakes will taper from about the forward sweep port and get narrower as they hit the stem.   So there are many ways you can do this planking.   You could literally pasted this template onto a 3/64" thick sheet of Cedar and cut your planks out.   They would be the exact shape you need.  And yes I could simply laser cut them for you but it is unlikely that the cedar I use for these would match in color with the cedar you use for the remainder of the planking.  So folks will have to cut their own.  
 
You could also transfer the lines from this smaller template of which a PDF copy will be available...to your hull frames.  This would give you the tick marks for your individual strakes and you would proceed to plank just we did on the Winnie or any other model.  There are so many ways to do this.  You guys can pick your own.   As this project is considered an advanced one,  I wont repeat myself and do a blow by blow on how to properly plank a hull.
 
Here is my hull with those two additional planks above the wales.  I used a 4H pencil to simulate caulking.   
 
Remember that the strakes for the wales have no taper at the bow.  Those are straight 7/32" wide strips.   BUT, the next five strakes above the wales do taper at the bow as discussed.  
 

 
So if the hull is not sufficiently strong at this point so I can remove the cross jigs then something is seriously wrong.  These five strakes are very carefully glued to each frame.   So everything should and will stay intact after we remove them.
 
To start this process...The first thing I did was remove all the tape along the top of the jigs holding them together.  Easy-peasy.
 
Then I just used a pair of nippers....flush cutters,  to snip the strips on the cant frame jigs first.
 

This will allow you to actually remove the whole jig after you cut those strips on both sides.  I see lots of inboard fairing in my near future!!!
 

Then I repeat this process at the stern for those cant frames.   But the very aft jig should just come right out.  Then just repeat the process to remove the aft cant frame jig.
 

 
So far so good.
 
Next I started tackling the extensions for all of those cant frames.  For this I prefer to use my home-madesaw.  Its basically just a scroll saw blade in an Xacto knife handle.  Its has fine teeth but is somewhat wide to prevent bending while in use.  I just cut myself a short length of blad to insert into the handle.
 
Start carefully cutting the extensions.  As you can see below...I am sawing them off one at a time.  But I am not sawing along the sheer too closely.  I am cutting in the center of the notches cut from the top-timbers.  I want some wiggle room when I finally establish the proper sheer.
 

With those removed for all of the cant frames we are almost done.   Now we must tackle the jigs for the square frames.  I am just using the very same scroll saw blade to cut the top timber extension on the port side.  Then I do the same to the top timber extension on the starboard side and the cross jig for that square frame will be freed.  
 

When all of the cross jigs are removed,  you will be ready to establish a proper sheer.  To do this we need to use our trusty templates once again.  Place them back on the model.  Line up the bottom edge of the template with the top edge of the wales.  This will give you a nice idea where the  sheer of the model should be.  With the template on the model I am going to use various sanding sticks to bring down the top timbers so they are flush with the top of the template.  In a few cases the sheer may fall higher or lower than those notches on your frames.  This is fine as long as you match the template.  We will be adding a fairing cap to the top of those frames in the next step.   
 
I have lots of inboard fairing to do!!! 
 
But I will wait to start that until after the outboard side is completely planked…for extra strength for the hull.   
 


 
 
bow planking strakes template.pdf

The first thing that needs to be done in preparation for planking is to paint the port openings.  It is much easier to do so now and those familiar with all of my Syren projects will recognize this step.   I am using the same Crimson Acrylic red for this model that I use for all of them.   
 
One note however,  rather than just start painting,   this model has many laser cut sweep ports.   The insides of the sweep ports have laser char on them.   You really cant successfully just paint over that.   The red wont cover it and will appear too dark.  You dont want to sand it off.  That would be bad.  It would change the precision shape of those port openings.  
 
Instead of sanding,  I painted the insides of the sweep ports with a very light tan first.   This will cover the char without compromising the shape of the sweep ports.   I mixed Titanium White with some brown and yellow Ochre.  Once that paint dried I switched to the Crimson.
 
One additional note....The quarter badge opening and window area was painted tan and will NOT be painted red.   This will be left tan as the great cabin will remain unpainted.
 
Once the painting was complete I taped the two templates into position on both sides of the model.
 

This is a VERY important step.   Just like when using a batten,  you must view the hull at all angles.  Ensure that the template is even on both sides of the hull.   The bottom edge of the templates represent the top edge of the wales.   You will be carefully tracing along the bottom edge of each template to mark the location for the first planking strake to be placed on the hull.
 
Make sure the run is good and at equal height at the bow and stern both port and starboard.
 

I forgot to mention that you should cut out all of the sweep ports and gunports from the template before taping it on the hull.  In addition,  cut out the fixed blocks on the templates too.   You will be tracing and marking the exact locations for the fixed blocks and the sweep port covers as well as the bottom edge of the templates.
 
We will be adding the sweep port covers to the hull soon so we can plank around them.  The same is true for the fixed block shells.  
 
Use a hard lead pencil so it keeps a sharp point longer.  Yes the lead will leave a lighter line but it will be more precise. Use a 4H or even a 6H pencil for marking the hull.
 
When you are done tracing these elements and the bottom edge of the templates, remove the them carefully.  We will be using them again many times.  Cut away any tape that hangs over the edges of the template.  Dont try and remove it...the template will tear.   Then store the templates safely for later use.
 
Here is what the hull looks like after removing the templates.
 

You can hopefully see my reference line that shows the top edge of the wales.  But its hard to see the sweep port lines in the photo.  Thats OK.  Just know that they are there.  You can see the locations of the fixed blocks.
 
We will be adding the first strake which represents the first layer for the top of the wales.   This is probably the most crucial of planking steps.  So take you time with it.  If the run and fit for this first plank is wrong then all of your planking will be wrong.   It will be hard to recover from that.
 
The strips are 7/32" x 3/64" Yellow cedar.   I have a whole bunch of them ready to go.  All have been matched for color.  All three strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide.  Try really hard to align the top of the strip with your reference line on the hull.   Make sure you match the placement port and starboard.
 
I wont rehash how to plank and how to bend the strips.   I have done that so many times.   Just refer to the tutorials and many logs on this site.  Or download the respective chapters for the Cheerful or the Winchelsea.   I am using a travel iron and bending and twisting as usual.  The first strake or the upper wales have been completed.  At least the first layer.  I prefer to use two layers.  You could however just use a thicker strip and complete the upper and lower strakes in one layer instead.  Its up to you.   But I personally prefer two layers because I think I can do a much better and cleaner job with the painting and placement.
 
With this upper wale in place...now its time to add two more strakes of the same width and thickness below this one.   It sounds easy enough,  but remember to get a good tight fit against the strakes already on the hull.  I am also using a #2 pencil to shade one edge of each strake to simulate the caulking.   Although on the upper and lower wales its not important.  Its only the first layer.  I would however simulate the caulking on the middle layer of the wales because it is only one layer thick.  I a referring to the butt joints only.
 
One last very important note:   When gluing these three strakes for the wales onto the hull, make sure you glue the strips to each and every frame.   Its the planking that will hold the hull together when we remove the top jigs.   So the frames need to be really secure to the planking.   Place a drop of glue  (your choice of PVA or CA) to each and every frame as you proceed.  When we complete two or three strakes above the wales later,  thats when we will remove the top jigs and establish the sheer properly.  So thats coming up soon.   If the planks arent secured to the frames it might be a disaster in the making.  But maybe not.  I am just a nervous Nelly.

 
 

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Thanks Mike. Don’t worry, I’m not abandoning the project. 
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

Completed gratings on the third attempt. I ended up orienting them so the top of the battens run port to starboard instead of bow to stern. (Hope that makes sense. It’s hard to explain.) I am shocked the transom is still attached after all the deconstruction. 
 
I deleted the redundant posts on this update as well. How many photos of this grating debacle do we need?
Steve

In Chuck's instructions the photos are even more clear on this one than the longboat as to how the garboard is shaped and placed. My plan is to line off the hull using a planking fan before laying them down. This should give the correct shape. 
 
After lining out the hull and making a test garboard, I also edgebend the next plank to make sure it curves around the garboard. If it's too severe, I adjust the garboard to a more gentle curve. I do this before gluing them down. This process is very time consuming, but necessary. Bob F used this method for the first couple of planks on his longboat. Hope this helps. 
Steve

That's looking really good. Looks like the planks are lying against the bulkheads and not lifting. I also bent the planks that way for the longboat and cut off the excess. Bending the plank that hugs against the garboard was the most severe. 
 
Been sanding and removing parts from my laser cut sheets and prepping the keel. Hope to post some pics soon to join you in this project. 
Steve

Another way to go about it would be to plank from the keel upward starting with the garbard streak. Maybe line off the hull and see how that looks. Sorry I haven't started mine yet to give you more insight, but planking upwards like I just mentioned worked for me with the longboat. I really have to start this thing! ;-)
Steve

I think you need to do some edge bending to get the bottom of those planks to lie on the bulkheads. I'm sure it's a beast to plank like the Longboat. 
Steve

Looks good to me!
Steve

Hi folks,
 
here some pictures showing the progress of the last weeks.....catheads done, main headrails and 10 of 12 head timbers done so far. The middle rails are ready to be glued, and next I´m working on the cathead support knees and their joint segments towards the middle rails.
 
Regards 
 
Werner