aliluke

I vote for Goodwin - down the middle, easier and no one is going to measure your masts and say "Oh no! You didn't follow Lees'".

My opinion and I admire your research - another dimension to our obsession...

Cheers

Alistair

Mick

There is plenty of "cheating" going on in ship model making - paper for brass, styrene for wood, glue for nails...I reckon finding a method that is easier while also being more accurate to the scale isn't cheating, it is just plain smart! All the same enjoy your challenge and your swivel gun posts look good with brass too. I look forward to your frequent updates.

Cheers

Alistair

Mick - A quick and very effective way of doing the brass strips on your swivel gun posts is to use paper. Blacken the paper with a Sharpie, cut the strips, blacken the edges and wrap. No one will know and they will fit tighter to the posts and be much more in scale. Paper is a very good friend in model making both as a finished piece and also as a template that can't be seen. It is cheap too...

I'm slightly surprised by how black everything looks. What's the plan there? Are you staining the pieces?

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Vitus

Your planking is really great - looks near perfect - if I get it that good I'll .

But - it maybe the photos? - it looks very stripped, pale, dark, pale, dark etc. Perhaps pause for a look at the overall effect if it isn't otherwise dressed - copper plates and paint? Could be the photos, could be my taste...

Just my thoughts

Alistair

Good stuff Hamilton

I find it hard to grasp your scale at 1:100 - it is extremely small and makes your work all the more impressive. I'm just getting my head around 1:64. Go for 1:48 next time!

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Richard

I'm guessing this has drifted a little off the subject of your log - Syren. I don't want the following to further the discussion in your log - it could/should be sent to another forum - but I do want to say this...

Although I have no experience of power tools, I find a knife, a file and some sandpaper can do everything I want. Why buy all of this expensive stuff when you are not sure what to use it for? Keep your money in your pocket in my opinion. Power tools do not make you a better builder, they are just tools. I have no intention of ever using a power tool to make a model (I'll probably regret saying that...I'm tempted by a mill but only just tempted) and I like my models just fine. So do some other people...  I also find that without power tools my work space is easy to maintain - I don't need a lot of space.

I guess my point is that these machines might improve accuracy and speed but you are better off developing the accuracy by hand and then only look to the machines for increased speed and  (maybe) improved accuracy. In this hobby there is nothing a machine can do that you can't do by hand, my opinion again. You have only to look at the amazing models from the 18th C, made without power tools to get the point.

My preferred sequence is first knife, then file, then sand - seldom and with great care. For bigger pieces add in a hand saw at the front end. You'll spend longer figuring out how your machines work than it takes to do the basic woodworking.

Anyway - to get back on your topic. Your build looks very challenging and I look forward to your updates. Keep it simple and build! She's a beautiful ship.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Slog

Have looked here before but not posted on your log. Your work is extremely good, clean, accurate and precise - all those words...I'd encourage you to go for fully rigged cannons. They will really add to the model and your model deserves them. Possibly look at after market cannons and carriages such as Chuck's? The carriages you have from the kit look a bit rough - you can buy much better and the cost/time benefit it is easy to justify (to yourself at least...). It can be done and your skills can do it!

My thoughts - a wonderful model in any respect regardless.

Cheers

Alistair

Looking good Mick and I'm glad my thoughts on your chain plates didn't offend. I don't really know enough about Endeavour to answer your rope coil question but to my eye they always look good if done well and not to excess. Also they are about the last thing to add which is a lot further down the road than where you are at. I like doing deck furniture - enjoy!

Cheers

Alistair

Pawel

I've just been down this treenail path with my Fly deck and agree with B.E and Ray. However I have just added them at about 0.5mm diameter and then filled them with a wood paste so that they are barely visible. I like the subtle detail effect but it is up to you how you go and I certainly do not like very visible, black treenails.

I'd certainly look at rebuilding the quarter badges versus those given in the kit.

Pandora is a beautiful ship and I too recommend the AoTS book if you can get a copy.

I look forward to your updates.

Cheers

Alistair

Can't answer your question Matti but I'm still enjoying your work. The painting of the stern features is fantastic and even with footless knights it all seems to fit together very well. Very impressive!

Cheers

Alistair

Stunning work Timmo - simply stunning! It looks like a contemporary model rather than one from a modern kit. Bravo!

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Mick

Your first experiment with the chain plates...bin it mate - to be frank. The hardest job you'll have with that is repeating it and it doesn't look the part to my eye anyway. I suggest looking at Cornwall Models, or similar, for fittings from other manufacturers if you aren't happy with the Occre ones. Making these parts  by hand is really, really hard and not necessary when there are good alternatives available for little cost from another kit maker. They are a difficult but critical part of the model - both in terms of look and strength. Save yourself the grief in my humble opinion and buy something that suits.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Bob

Based on all your previous work this is going to be stunning. I really look forward to your log from here on.

Cheers

Alistair

You're doing well Mick. As you say - keep it up!

Cheers

Alistair

Definitely a recommended buy Steve - afterwards you will wonder how you did without them. I bought mine when I was doing my AVS cannons with 3mm blocks. I now don't work without them on - dorky? yes! but helpful too. I forget what lenses I got, there are various types based on distance and magnification.

Cheers

Alistair

Steve - you don't have a magnifying glass?! I amazed you do that beautiful work without one! I use Optivisors - they make me look like a complete dork (how my wife laughs at me proves that) but they are now my favourite tool. Buy a pair! They turn your model into what is seen in the photographs of it.

Totally agree with you in response to Pierre. I use MSW to help others (where I can), seek advice and to be inspired by, and learn from, those with skills that are very much higher than mine.

Cheers

Alistair

Great planking Vitus. Nice to have you well ahead of me, I can follow and learn!

Cheers

Alistair

Every aspect of this build is fantastic. I decided to not go as far as you with the decking on my Fly - didn't have the confidence, but your deck sure looks good. I too used that method for my rope coils on the AVS (posted on the old MSW) - it is nearly fool proof.

I'll keep up with your superb work!

Cheers

Alistair

That is damn good building. Well done mate, I'm enjoying this.

Cheers

Alistair

That silhouette shot is great - a fantastic idea for photographing rigging which I haven't seen here before. Not only good rigging but brilliant presentation.

That looks superb Timmo. Much, much better than the other representation. Will definitely try this with my stern decorations but you are a much more masterful painter than I.

Cheers

Alistair

Stunning work Matti, the brush work is great and the overall hull - and all parts of your build - is brilliant.

Thanks for sharing,

Alistair

Hello Glenn

I remember your stunning work from the old MSW. It would be nice to see your Pegasus again but I'll settle for the Vanguard too. I'm using Jeff's holly for my Fly decks but I'm caulking with pencil lead. It will be interesting to see how it turns out. I thought about no caulking - which is probably more accurate for the scale - but the very thin pencil line was my choice. I'm also debating treenails at this scale too - do you intend to try to depict them? Today I experimented with a wood paste so pale that it matched the holly and I made invisible treenails! Smart!?

I think you are being too overly anxious about your heads/bow. No one will know. It is beautiful work that you have done on this piece and re-rendering will only be a risky waste of time in my opinion. Go with relaxed and point out the mistake when it is all finished. I can here them say "You cared about that? Are you kidding me?"

I really look forward to your updates! Love your work.

Cheers

Alistair

Absolutely beautiful work Steve. Just stunning!

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Mick

Looking good.

As to your question - if there is tension on a part from the rigging in particular, you should use pins as well as glue. If the part fails during rigging you'll regret not having reinforced it. Much easier to pin now and be safe later! If it is not going to be under any stress then CA should do. For the most stressed pieces I also tend to use epoxy glues even though I really hate working with them. Epiglass Epiglue for instance, once cured (that takes 4 days!), forms a bond that will be stronger than the pieces it connects. In other words the wood will fail before the bond does. CA is much more brittle especially if there is not a lot of bonding surface.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Alistair