aliluke

Stunning work Timmo - simply stunning! It looks like a contemporary model rather than one from a modern kit. Bravo!

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Mick

Your first experiment with the chain plates...bin it mate - to be frank. The hardest job you'll have with that is repeating it and it doesn't look the part to my eye anyway. I suggest looking at Cornwall Models, or similar, for fittings from other manufacturers if you aren't happy with the Occre ones. Making these parts  by hand is really, really hard and not necessary when there are good alternatives available for little cost from another kit maker. They are a difficult but critical part of the model - both in terms of look and strength. Save yourself the grief in my humble opinion and buy something that suits.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Bob

Based on all your previous work this is going to be stunning. I really look forward to your log from here on.

Cheers

Alistair

You're doing well Mick. As you say - keep it up!

Cheers

Alistair

Definitely a recommended buy Steve - afterwards you will wonder how you did without them. I bought mine when I was doing my AVS cannons with 3mm blocks. I now don't work without them on - dorky? yes! but helpful too. I forget what lenses I got, there are various types based on distance and magnification.

Cheers

Alistair

Steve - you don't have a magnifying glass?! I amazed you do that beautiful work without one! I use Optivisors - they make me look like a complete dork (how my wife laughs at me proves that) but they are now my favourite tool. Buy a pair! They turn your model into what is seen in the photographs of it.

Totally agree with you in response to Pierre. I use MSW to help others (where I can), seek advice and to be inspired by, and learn from, those with skills that are very much higher than mine.

Cheers

Alistair

Great planking Vitus. Nice to have you well ahead of me, I can follow and learn!

Cheers

Alistair

Every aspect of this build is fantastic. I decided to not go as far as you with the decking on my Fly - didn't have the confidence, but your deck sure looks good. I too used that method for my rope coils on the AVS (posted on the old MSW) - it is nearly fool proof.

I'll keep up with your superb work!

Cheers

Alistair

That is damn good building. Well done mate, I'm enjoying this.

Cheers

Alistair

That silhouette shot is great - a fantastic idea for photographing rigging which I haven't seen here before. Not only good rigging but brilliant presentation.

That looks superb Timmo. Much, much better than the other representation. Will definitely try this with my stern decorations but you are a much more masterful painter than I.

Cheers

Alistair

Stunning work Matti, the brush work is great and the overall hull - and all parts of your build - is brilliant.

Thanks for sharing,

Alistair

Hello Glenn

I remember your stunning work from the old MSW. It would be nice to see your Pegasus again but I'll settle for the Vanguard too. I'm using Jeff's holly for my Fly decks but I'm caulking with pencil lead. It will be interesting to see how it turns out. I thought about no caulking - which is probably more accurate for the scale - but the very thin pencil line was my choice. I'm also debating treenails at this scale too - do you intend to try to depict them? Today I experimented with a wood paste so pale that it matched the holly and I made invisible treenails! Smart!?

I think you are being too overly anxious about your heads/bow. No one will know. It is beautiful work that you have done on this piece and re-rendering will only be a risky waste of time in my opinion. Go with relaxed and point out the mistake when it is all finished. I can here them say "You cared about that? Are you kidding me?"

I really look forward to your updates! Love your work.

Cheers

Alistair

Absolutely beautiful work Steve. Just stunning!

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Mick

Looking good.

As to your question - if there is tension on a part from the rigging in particular, you should use pins as well as glue. If the part fails during rigging you'll regret not having reinforced it. Much easier to pin now and be safe later! If it is not going to be under any stress then CA should do. For the most stressed pieces I also tend to use epoxy glues even though I really hate working with them. Epiglass Epiglue for instance, once cured (that takes 4 days!), forms a bond that will be stronger than the pieces it connects. In other words the wood will fail before the bond does. CA is much more brittle especially if there is not a lot of bonding surface.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Alistair

That planking is looking really good vths. I'm also looking back in your log and admiring the deck planking work too. Just being in this phase makes me realise what a fine job you did on that. I never contemplated tapering the deck planks towards the aft - as good as that looks - it is hard enough just to cut them square and to length!! Impressive work by you.

Cheers

Alistair

Nice stuff Hamilton - the boat looks great. I'm waiting for Syren - Chuck - to come through with a boat or boats but I'm far from needing them at the moment. I'll have to stick to decking and planking for a while yet!

Cheers

Alistair

Very nice work Ken

It reminds me of the AVS and one thing, amongst others that are good about their kits, is the number of bulkheads that MS kits provide are a great foundation for a hull. Other manufacturers give you great distances to span.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Mick

The main keel should definitely be painted white with the hull. Below is a link to my model of the AVS (I still haven't figured out to link it through my signature....) You can see the effect. Work out a painting sequence allowing for the addition of the strakes and other bits. Painting requires as much patience and thought as all parts and while you'll have to do touch-ups as you go you want to get the sequence right in the first place. I haven't done the Endeavour and urge you to look at the other logs for it and look at the approaches to the sequence. You've got the hull sorted out - take your time and make the rest really sweet!

For masking I'd suggest Tamiya masking tape. I know that lots of others here use it. Properly applied it has no bleed.

Take your time and enjoy.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/392-armed-virginia-sloop-by-aliluke-model-shipways-148/page-1

Cheers

Alistair

Looks really good Mick

I wouldn't rush into the painting. Have a look at other logs - it might be wise to do some other work first. In other words, I'd plan a sequence to work out when painting is "the next step". The paint is the finish and if you damage it during the rest of the build it is very hard to fix (I speak from bitter experience).

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Timmo

Solid wood over ply every time. Right choice and very nice work by you on the fenders and steps.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Mick

I didn't understand your question until I realised, from the later photos that this was your third layer of planks. You have probably spotted the issue but you have to much space midships for planks compared to the bow and, particularly, the stern. The area looks like a lens in shape with a wide centre and points at both ends. I don't think this is going to go away whichever direction you head in. The "lens" will get smaller but it will not go away. It means you'll be bringing planks to finish as points. This isn't correct.

I wouldn't despair however. My advice is:

- Finish your planking as best you can and with regard to making it symmetrical - port/starboard - at best.

- Fill and sand the hull below the waterline until it is smooth as a baby's bum.

- Paint the hull below the waterline (this is no shame and it looks good too!).

I've never built Endeavour but have tackled a hull as difficult if not worse - The Dutch Whaler by Sergal. My planking of this is totally wrong but I had no idea at the time and no internet and no other leads. However it worked in the end. The trick, I think, is you have to get some upward sweep of the planks fairly early on instead of running the planks parallel. The upward sweep gets rid of the consequence you are now facing. I'd post some pictures here but I don't think they'd be useful.

My thoughts.

Cheers

Alistair

Great work Ron. Home straight now and she's going to be a beauty (already is).

Cheers,

Alistair

Hi Mick

You'll get there! The most important aspect of your effort is that your difficult hull now has the correct shape. Please don't take this the wrong way but your lower planking set out is a bit eccentric. The upper works look great though. I'd  suggest a painted - aged white - lower hull to the waterline. This is consistent with how the Endeavour was finished. Just my thoughts...

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Steve

I used blackened jewellery wire for my hooks. It is very soft but holds the tackles to the eyebolts just fine. It goes down to very thin gauges and is very cheap. I've got 2mm blocks for my Fly model - 1:64 - but I agree that even if they look right they are ridiculously small to try to work with. I might have a go, they came as a part of the upgrade kit, but will probably settle for 3mm blocks too. The AVS cannons even at 1:48 are smaller than the Fly cannons and 3mm blocks worked out fine for them. I also bought different cannons for the Fly about a year ago but wish I'd waited for Chuck to come out with his. They look much better...maybe I will indulge...

Look forward to your updates - it is very nice work that you are doing.

Cheers

Alistair