-Dallen

With your current tool selection I would recommend buying the wood from one of our sponsor sites that specialize in wood for ship building. They are on the front page, lower right. You can get milled lumber in any dimensions you would want as well as sheet material. This would be preferred as you do not have the tools to cut and mill rough cut lumber that could be obtained at a lumber yard.
 
Starting a ship from a pile of lumber is a hard thing to do. I would start trying to modify kits and see what types of materials and tools you may want or need before diving into scratch building. This will familiarize yourself more with ship building and also allow a slower accumulation of tools which will make scratch building easier.

thanks for your confidence Dupree.  I though about doing it,  but my lack of knowledge kept me from following through.  I may try it out on a future project, but not at the moment  {no way to install it anymore}.   anyway......I appreciate the thought.  

first day of my four day week end.............I got up........snow.   I had my coffee,  and I planked.   the Syborn sat on the main table untouched this day.
 
second day of my four day week end........I got up.....unsettled and snow.  I had my coffee,  and I planked.   it was good to see the light at the end of the tunnel.   the syborn sat on the main table,  but there was a brief shuffle of the clutter that lay on the table.   a pair of parts were painted,  and lines got ties off.   the dead eyes are now all tied off,  and the forward haul lines are tied off as well.......I just need to cut the excess thread.   the spreader bars are painted.....they need to be added to the shrouds.   there are only two lines that need to be added {one added,  one terminated},  to finish off  the mid ship.   I laid out the stuff I need to make the rope coils for the haul lines on my desk,  but there was a lot of sanding dust about,  so I cleaned my desk.   it turned out to be enough of a distraction,  to set me off on another tangent {the previous one I was on before}.  back to planking.
 
this third day of my four day week end.......I got up.....supposed to get some freezing rain today,  but my big toe says no    I have my coffee......my camera and adapter lay before me,  after I've shuffled through all the pictures I took during the days before.......appalled that bad lighting had ruined some of the key pictures.   hopefully,  I can fill in the gaps somehow.   I found that I did take one picture of the syborn.......the lines tied off and such.   I hope to do more today.   I brought out a tool that I had made during my Cux build........it will be interesting to see how many folks remember it  
 

 
the day is young........even I don't have a clue,  as to what I'll find myself doing this day   

welcome to MSW Bruce. all the best in your new hobby. Geoff

Hi Bruce,
I'm guessing that you are Canadian since you linked to Amazon Canada and the model you identified is the Bluenose from Nova Scotia.
 
A wooden model of the Bluenose that is often suggested as a challenging first build is the Model Shipways Bluenose.  You can find it on the Model Expo website (modelexpo-online.com).  It's more expensive than the one you linked to.  But customer support is good.
 
The other good thing about the Model Shipways Bluenose is that there's a good "practicum" for it produced by Lauck Street Shipyard.  This practicum provides step-by-step instructions on the build as well as a list of recommended tools.  The author, Bob Hunt, is also very helpful should you have any questions.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Best,
Rabi

Response from StewMac;
 
Thank you for contacting us.  We are waiting on some machine parts from our production facility, before we can list this item as "in stock".  We hope to have all items available later this week. You can always sign up to receive an email when this item is ready, by clicking the "email when in stock" link under the item number.
If you have any other questions or comments, please contact us.

Best regards, 

Jayme Arnett
Customer Service Manager
Stewart-MacDonald

Have the Dremel Plunge Router attachment and it works well within its limitations. It will not handle close tolerance. I tired to run a rabbit on a keel and it would not consistenly hold aline. However I do use it on Doll House furniture where tolerance is not so critical. With the router (Dremel 4000) in place and the base on a flat surface you can "wiggle" the drill .010 -.020 laterally and .010 front to back. I've tried to order the Stewart McDonald tool but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. Sent an availability request to maker and waiting for response.

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

Bruce,
 
I don't know for sure but Dusek Maristella might have some "starter" kits.  From what I've seen of the models being built, they're pretty good.

Hi Bruce,
 
You've got some great input from the others.  So I'll just say "Welcome to MSW".

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

I have a lot of scrap wood left over from projects.  I find that if the piece is big enough to handle easily I keep it.  Really small stuff gets tossed.  Also if I find that I am accumulating a lot of one type of material, like the left overs from kit laser cut sheets, I tend to throw out the less useful bits.  No rules, just do what works for you.

Just now received Ed Tostis' book. Looks like the book I'm currently reading about HMS Valkyrie will have to go on hold for a few nights.
 
Dupree

Update.... Milled Keel assembly in 1:32 scale. Have included a photo to show the contrast in dimensions. I'm currently preparing the frames for layout and cutting. Quite an experience for me and this is only a cross section.
 
Dupree

I decided that I would make this my initial build. This build will introduce me to most aspects of model building. I will be using Walnut as my primary lumber as a large walnut tree was blown over on my property last summer and it seems to resaw nicely. I also have a nice supply of Maple and Swiss Pear.  I am considering upscaling to 1:32 and is likely. I have been like a sponge absorbing everything I can on this forum and have built quite a resource library. Looking forward to the hands on now. I handle critiques well, so all are welcome.
 
Dupree

I just had three trees harvested. A Pecan, Cherry and a Walnut. Research suggested two years to dry and cure. To hasten this I have had the logs cut to 24" (rough) an then used my band saw to create 1-1/2" x 3-4" x 24"billets (no bark) and stacked and cross stacked. Hopefully I can use them in a year.

I just had three trees harvested. A Pecan, Cherry and a Walnut. Research suggested two years to dry and cure. To hasten this I have had the logs cut to 24" (rough) an then used my band saw to create 1-1/2" x 3-4" x 24"billets (no bark) and stacked and cross stacked. Hopefully I can use them in a year.

Hey Bruce,
 
Pick up this book - I purchased it back in 1994 when I was getting into the hobby - and successfully built an AL Harvey, POB as my first ship model.  You can find a Harvey on Ebay - very simple hull lines and rig.  While not entirely accurate - its an easy fun build to get your feet wet.  Mastini references this build along with the Blue Nose in the text of his book.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Ship-Modeling-Simplified-Techniques-Construction/dp/0071558675

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

Hello Bruce and welcome to the group. Don't be distracted by "Older Post" as you will find that they usually represent tried and true methods that are very relevant to the current discipline. Choosing to start with plastic or wood is entirely a personal choice. One thing to consider is your current arsenal of tools that can be used without a huge outlay of money until you decide which speciality (or both) to pursue.  Another idea is to browse the build logs and find something or a specific build  that you are interested in. That way you have an immediate resource to help guide you as everyone here is ready to assist you. Welcome aboard and happy modeling.

WOW!
 
Thanks to all that helped in this one!!!
 
Sincerily, Daniel

After many (and many more) hours of effort by numerous volunteers, it is now ready and available for viewing.  Joshua Humphreys is acknowledged as the principal designer of the original six American frigates.  His son, Samuel, was Chief Naval constructor from 1826 until his death in 1846.
 
The Notebook represents essentially an Aide-mémoire or ready reference on a wide variety of information related to ships and shipbuilding.  It opens with the hand copied British Establishment of 1719, and also includes the 1745 establishment, dimensions of many vessels from several nations, and notations on ships wheels, various capstans and much more.  It runs chronologically from the first entry (not dated) - some entries provide clues as to the date (such as a notation "captured by the British in 1813) but that also is sporadic.  For example, there is an entry for "Dimensions of spars of US Frigate President" followed by "Dimensions of Spars of US Frigate Constitution", however they follow entries for the "Dimension of Brig US Nautilus captured by The British in 1812" and "Rules for masting Frigates 1809", and are followed by "Dimensions of Ship Madison Corvette, Built-Launched at Sacketts Harbour on the Lakes November 1812" and an entry titled "Sept 1814 A Better Rule".
 
Overall, there is a great deal of information of various detail provided which can aid in understanding the basis for some of the ship design philosophies of Joshua and Samuel.  Please note that spellings have been retained as they appear in the source document for the most part, so there may be multiple spellings of the same word.  Emendation has generally been restricted to converting the thorn (looks like a y as in ye ) to the appropriate word (such as "the" for ye ), and spelling out certain abbreviations. 
 
It can be downloaded from the Modelshipbuilder website at the bottom of the resources page here:
http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?24
 
We hope that this is a useful reference work for you, and have plans to add to the body of knowledge as we continue transcription of other documents related to the early Navy.

Welcome to you and everyone else I'm a guitarist also, I started doing my own work when a so-called luthier ruined the neck on my 40th anniversary Strat by stripping the truss rod.
 
Luthier supply houses are an excellent place to find ship modeling tools. I'm going to post another thread with a few other things I have that people might find of use. You know those $20k custom guitars with inlay up and down the neck? Chances are it was done with this tool. It really does work extremely well for minute adjustments, and with a little time invested in designing and building a table for it, you should have a very flexible precision tool. I need to do the same, I've had it for a while but except for some pretty thorough tests, I haven't used it in a project yet. I have all the supplies and materials and hardware for a really sweet Strat-type guitar with my own body design, it just hasn't made it to the top of the queue yet. Mostly because ship models are interfering.
 
More places you should spend some time checking out what they have:
 
LMI
 
Philadelphia Luthier
 
Also, if you have the Byrnes table saw or another capable of small scale work, you can get some good prices on wood of most domestic and exotic species by buying fingerboard blanks. They're typically 5/16" x 2.5" - 3" x 21"-25". LMI has good ebony fingerboards in this size for $20-$25, a single one could be resawn (with a nice .03 slittling blade) into quite a lot of ship scale timber.