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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    Thank you so much Jon, you are the king! This is exactly what I was looking for. The definitive solution to my problem
  2. mtbediz
    Yes, if the strops are strong enough, there's no need to glue them. You just have to try them and see.
  3. mtbediz
    I did the chamfering with my sander. Of course, the strips were too thin to hold by hand, so I used metal clamps to hold them while sanding.
  4. mtbediz
    Thanks for the plans, Jon. They’ll be helpful to me, but the given dimensions are a bit confusing. In the plan, I see the width of the main mast’s top as 21 feet. That’s roughly 6.4 meters, which seems quite large to me. Is it really that big? Or am I misreading the plan?
  5. mtbediz
    Dear friends, I have a question. I couldn't find any information on the plans regarding the size of the fighting tops on the masts. The fighting tops on all three masts are similar in design, but their sizes should be different. If you have information about their sizes in the documentation, could you please let me know? Thank you in advance.
  6. mtbediz
    I completed the chafing fish of the main mast using 1.5 x 2.2 mm basswood strips, chamfering their edges so they fit snugly around the mast without gaps.
  7. mtbediz
    I think it's a good solution, but don't forget to glue the strops to the deadeyes.
  8. mtbediz
    I began preparing the masts with the main mast. Using my milling machine, I squared off the top and chamfered the corners, as indicated in the plan. I don't know how much work is involved in completing this task yet. I think too much
  9. mtbediz
    The wood strip caps were added to the channels and entire channels and plates were varnished.
  10. mtbediz
    I installed the fife rails first, but now that I think about it, it makes more sense to put the masts in place first.
  11. mtbediz
    The Fife rails look great. Very clean work as always.
  12. mtbediz
    Thank you so much Jon. Great photos, taken from exactly the angles I was hoping for, they will be very helpful.
  13. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon.
  14. mtbediz
    Hi Greg, I would be very grateful if you could share photos of the details on the channels. Thank you.
  15. mtbediz
    The fabrication and installation of the chain plates is complete. The entire job took 15 days. Unless I'm mistaken, a total of 64 chain plates were installed on the ship. It was a repetitive and somewhat tedious task, but it's finally finished.
  16. mtbediz
    I did it exactly as Greg described.
  17. mtbediz
    Peter is right, if you look at post #34 you will see that the grate on the bow has changed in size and shape. Actually, I am making a lot of things by looking at the images of the ship on the internet.
  18. mtbediz
    Sorry my friend, I didn't understand the question.
  19. mtbediz
    Clever solution.
  20. mtbediz
    I bought 0.5-0.6-0.7mm cutters from Ali Express. They're not expensive, so I recommend them. You might need them again.
  21. mtbediz
    I used my mill with 0,6mm cutter to make the sheaves.
  22. mtbediz
    Unless you're adding sails, there are lot of belaying pins that won't be attached anyway. I'd leave the holes empty; it looks more natural.
  23. mtbediz
    I've often considered sourcing small parts like blocks and deadeyes, which are used in large numbers in sailing ship models, from external suppliers. Sometimes I wonder if all the effort I put into making them myself is really worth it. The quality of the rigging ropes truly makes a significant difference in the overall appearance of sailing ship models. Since I couldn't find a supplier in my country that offered the quality I was looking for, I started making the ropes myself. I was pleased with the results, so I’ve continued doing it ever since.
  24. mtbediz
    Hi Turcic, I made the eyebolts myself. I used 0.6mm brass wire and the inner diameter of the eyelets is 1mm.
  25. mtbediz
    The chain plates and deadeyes have been mounted to the main channel on the starboard side.

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