MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
×
mtbediz
-
Posts
1,280 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by mtbediz
-
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Yes you are right, I forgot to write it. Diameter of the dowel is 6 mm. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I haven't sanded the deadeyes yet. I'll post photos of that later. I've used it before and it works well. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
After this step, there are a lot of small parts like deadeyes and blocks that need to be sanded clean, so I made a simple sander to make the job easier. You just drop the parts in, turn the sander with a motor, and they come out clean and sanded.
-
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I have reached the point where I need to make deadeyes. At first, I considered buying ready made ones but I decided to fabricate them myself. I began by using a triangular file on the lathe to carve the classic grooves into the dowel. Next, I sliced the dowel into discs of the correct thickness using a circular saw, then drilled three evenly spaced holes in each disc using a 0.8 mm bit. After drilling, I remounted each piece on the lathe and gently chamfered the edges with a file. This final touch gave them a smooth, polished finish. The result: clean, functional, and completely handmade deadeyes.
-
I don't have any idea about rolling pins but the others look like truckles for the carronade carriages.
-
I have the same problem, but I have to leave it as is. Otherwise, I would have to remove the beams that the hatch sits on and many other things.
-
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Yes my friend, I will do the rigging. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Yes, due to the angle of the photos, the paths and stairs used to reach the monastery are not visible. Getting there is a bit challenging and tiring, but it is safe. -
You know how to take advantage of the dividing attachment's capabilities. I have one too, but I've realized I haven't been making the most of it yet.
-
Clean and precise work, as always. I absolutely agree with your opinion about the Proxxon mill. Every modeler should have it. I was wondering how you would made the square holes for the capstan bars, but I assume you're leaving them round, or will they be square?
-
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hi Peter. The outer diameter of the pipe on my grommet is 2.4 mm. I believe the 2 mm measurement on the grommet you found is the inner diameter of the hole, and the outer diameter is probably equal to mine. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hi Greg, no I didn't cut these from brass tubing. I bought them from a hobby store.The diameter of the flange is 3.6 mm and the outer diameter of the pipe is 2.4 mm. I first drilled 2.4 mm holes in the ship's hull and placed the portholes inside.
-
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I am sorry I just noticed your message, Peter. I know it's too late for this, but I'll answer anyway. My curtains are 0,8 mm thick. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
mtbediz replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I'm back at my shipyard after a long break. At this stage, I've decided to add the berth deck portlights. I'll be making the channels and chain plates next. I've completed the installation of the starboard portlights. They will be painted black later.
-
Nice detail.
-
Thanks Greg, I'm planning to finish my vacation next week and go back to my shipyard. I really miss working
-
Hi Greg, you're adding gun deck details. Why don't you consider building the bowsprit bits, forward bits and chain stoppers from scratch in accordance with the original? You have the skills and tools to build them from scratch.
-
Looking good, Greg. This build log looks like it will be a good guide for future modellers who add a gun deck to this kit.
-
I left the bottom straight without thinking too much about it. Since the lids would be open anyway, they wouldn't be visible
-
To plank completely correctly, spiling is required, particularly from the lower end of the wales to the keel. However, we don't know if the wood Dave will use for the second layer planking will allow for lateral bending.
-
I noticed this too. Your ship has a Bluff bow. Making the garboard shorter seems difficult. To create a planking pattern that matches the photo you've attached, you can apply a planking pattern similar to the one I've tried to draw on your photo in the second layer. To do this, you could end the planking from the bulwark down to the lower end of the wales, then work your way up from the keel. Sorry, I am not good at drawing on the computer but I think you can understand what I wanted to show.
-
Everything is going well, Greg.
-
Yes, I guess with that thought, I also mounted the pin rails in place before the carronades.
Our Emblem ®
