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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    Hi Turcic, I made the eyebolts myself. I used 0.6mm brass wire and the inner diameter of the eyelets is 1mm.
  2. mtbediz
    The chain plates and deadeyes have been mounted to the main channel on the starboard side.
  3. mtbediz
    The stancions look fantastic, Peter, very good job. I only worked with a miniature file set and some sandpaper when making them. I was just wondering what kind of cutters you used to make the stancions. I'm sorry they hurt your hands.
  4. mtbediz
    Prepare the tackle outside as shown in the photo and tighten it with a pair of tweezers after attaching it in place. This will make it much easier.
  5. mtbediz
    Here's what actually happened. When I first made the stancions, I tried using the three-jaw chuck on the lathe, but I couldn't get the square part to center properly, so I bought Proxxon's DB 250 lathe-compatible plastic four-jaw chuck and used it to make the stancions. I just realized I didn't show this in my build log. I see you have a four-jaw chuck, too, and can easily turn square parts. So, you won't need to make a shank.
  6. mtbediz
    I started mounting the chain plates to the fore channel.
  7. mtbediz
    One more thing Peter. To mount a square workpiece in a three-jaw chuck, drill a hole at one end of the workpiece, insert a screw or stud of appropriate diameter, and cut its head to create a round shank. Then, clamp the shank into the chuck. There will be no loosening of the shank since the cutter will apply a force in the tightening direction to the screw while the workpiece is rotating. (Apologize for the terrible drawing. It was a bit rushed)
  8. mtbediz
    By the way, I sometimes use the milling machine as a lathe. I do this by clamping the workpiece in the chuck and the cutter in the vice. This way, I can move the workpiece (up and down) and the cutter as I please. In this case, the cutter does its job while the workpiece is rotating. Keep that in mind.
  9. mtbediz
    Good decision. To be honest, I'm not entirely satisfied with how the canopies I made look either. They're still in place for now, but the thought of removing them keeps crossing my mind. I might replace them with a basic rope guardrail.
  10. mtbediz
    Looks like a great cutter, Peter. What's the maximum thickness of brass sheet metal it can cut? And if you don't mind me asking where you bought it?
  11. mtbediz
    Here, anyone can ask anything Greg. We all learn. It's a wonderful thing.
  12. mtbediz
    Great model, congratulations! Will you add the canopies on the hatchways?
  13. mtbediz
    I'd be very happy if you visited me, you're always welcome. As for the rings, I really don't have any idea about their purpose.
  14. mtbediz
    Thanks for sharing these pictures, Jon. Yes, I knew that the chain plates are made in two parts, but I chose to make them as a single piece. If I were building this model for a competition, I would have followed the real-life design. But in the end, this model will just sit in a corner of my living room, waiting to be looked at and the people who’ll look at it will definitely not be experts in sailing warships anyway.
  15. mtbediz
    Hi Thomas. First, I make a deep mark along the line I’m going to cut using a steel ruler and a sharp knife, and then I cut along that mark with sheet metal shears. This mark prevents the shears from slipping sideways.
  16. mtbediz
    I gave up on making the chain plates from brass wire because I'm not very good at hammering 1mm thick brass wire into flat strips. The strips don't come out very smooth. Instead, I cut 1.5mm-wide strips from 0.4mm thick brass sheeting I had on hand. After cutting the strips and drilling the bolt holes, I chemically blackened them. I haven't decided yet whether to settle for blackening or paint them black as well. I mounted a deadeye onto the pre-made chain plate and mounted it in place as a test. I used some black 0.6mm diameter nails I had on hand. I haven't glued it in yet.
  17. mtbediz
    When I first got into ship modeling, my initial two builds were kit based. To be honest, I didn’t enjoy them much, and at one point, I even considered giving up the hobby altogether. But while browsing through the build logs on this forum, I stumbled upon some incredible scratch built models. That discovery changed everything for me. Inspired, I decided to try my hand at a relatively simple scratch build. I started by gathering the basic tools needed for scratch building and set out to see what I could create. To my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed the process. Working from scratch gave me a sense of freedom I hadn’t felt with kits I wasn’t confined by pre made parts or instructions. As time went on, I gradually expanded my toolkit and began tackling more detailed projects. Of course, scratch building demands both time and patience, and having a dedicated workshop space is essential. But for me, the creative freedom and satisfaction it brings make it all worthwhile.
  18. mtbediz
    Thank you Rick.
  19. mtbediz
    When attaching the deadeyes to the chain plates, I'll use the same method I used on the Cutter Alert model, as this is the closest I can get to the appearance of the real ship. P.S. : I flatten the 1mm diameter brass wire by hammering it and use it in the production of chain plates and I drill two holes for the bolts with a 0.6 mm drill bit.
  20. mtbediz
    Yes you are right, I forgot to write it. Diameter of the dowel is 6 mm.
  21. mtbediz
    I haven't sanded the deadeyes yet. I'll post photos of that later. I've used it before and it works well.
  22. mtbediz
    After this step, there are a lot of small parts like deadeyes and blocks that need to be sanded clean, so I made a simple sander to make the job easier. You just drop the parts in, turn the sander with a motor, and they come out clean and sanded.
  23. mtbediz
    I have reached the point where I need to make deadeyes. At first, I considered buying ready made ones but I decided to fabricate them myself. I began by using a triangular file on the lathe to carve the classic grooves into the dowel. Next, I sliced the dowel into discs of the correct thickness using a circular saw, then drilled three evenly spaced holes in each disc using a 0.8 mm bit. After drilling, I remounted each piece on the lathe and gently chamfered the edges with a file. This final touch gave them a smooth, polished finish. The result: clean, functional, and completely handmade deadeyes.
  24. mtbediz
    I don't have any idea about rolling pins but the others look like truckles for the carronade carriages.
  25. mtbediz
    I have the same problem, but I have to leave it as is. Otherwise, I would have to remove the beams that the hatch sits on and many other things.

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