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flying_dutchman2

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  2. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from firdajan in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  3. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to Louie da fly in How to make windlass.   
    (See my recent post regarding the mast step for the nef I'm currently building. First result pretty bad - second one, totally ok)
     
    Steven
  4. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century   
    As I look at your excellent and meticulous work on your sails, I look at my sails on the Boyer and the Utrecht and we do pretty much the same details. I do all the sewing by hand using many Dutch books for that particular era of the ship I am building. 
    Sails for the Fluit will be much simpler. 
    Marcus 
  5. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Baker in Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century   
    As I look at your excellent and meticulous work on your sails, I look at my sails on the Boyer and the Utrecht and we do pretty much the same details. I do all the sewing by hand using many Dutch books for that particular era of the ship I am building. 
    Sails for the Fluit will be much simpler. 
    Marcus 
  6. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Archi in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  7. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Louie da fly in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  8. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Meriadoc Brandybuck in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    This is great material. Will research it further. Thanks a lot. 
    Marcus 
  9. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  10. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Meriadoc Brandybuck in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  11. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Baker in Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman   
    Thanks for all the likes, suggestions and comments.  
     
    Now that there is less work in the garden I am continuing work on the Zeehaen and working on the windlass. After the 1st try, which went in the wood box the second attempt is much better. I use walnut as I have a lot of that and I like working with that wood. 
     
    This will be an 8 sided windlass. After I pm'd Ab Hoving on this he msgd., me that the Dutch in the 17th century used either a 6 or an 8 sided windlass. It all depended on how large the ship was and how much power you needed to haul material. 
     

    I have a jig to plane 4 sides to a 45 degree angle. 
     
     

    Small vice bolted to a dremel stand clamped to a table. 
     
     

    Mark distance with pencil and use a carving knife and Xacto blade to slowly shave of areas. The outer sides are lower than the inner ones. 
     
     

    Next side. 
     
     

    The end pieces will be cut off. 
     
     

    The square holes are made and still needs to be sanded. 
     
    Marcus
  12. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to Louie da fly in How to make windlass.   
    Yes, I realised overnight that I'd been thinking in terms of my own builds, where the deck furniture is much smaller, due to smaller vessels at a smaller scale.
     
    Steven
  13. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to allanyed in How to make windlass.   
    Hi Marcus,
    Just my own personal take on this, but I would use the hardest and closest grained wood that I could find.  It is easier to control the cut of the hard wood with SHARP chisels, sanding sticks, files and scalpel, taking little cuts at a time.  
     
    Kevlar gloves??  Neat idea, but based on your experience since going to these, do the gloves cause more slips because you lose the feel of the wood when using a scalpel or chisel?  Would love to hear more about this. 
     
    Allan 
     
  14. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to Bob Cleek in How to make windlass.   
    I'm not sure if by this is indicated that your are carving the workpiece while holding it in your hand. If so, it is far better to secure the workpiece solidly and then use both hands to control the carving tool. Two hands are better than one and the Kevlar gloves aren't as necessary. Maybe this is a no-brainer, but I've seen guys trying to do small carving when holding the piece in their hand and in that instance, yes, Kevlar gloves are highly advisable! Two hands on the cutting tool also makes for far more steady and precise cuts. A jeweler's vise of some sort which can be held firmly in a larger vise to hold small parts securely should be part of any modeler's tool kit. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so buy the best professional model you can find. Cheap Chinese knock-offs abound!
     

     
    This style of jeweler's vise is also very good for pulling wire through a draw plate. The serrations on the jaws are sized to hold various gauges of wire.
     

     
    The head of these jewelers' peg clamps screws off so it can be mounted in a bench vise instead of being held in the hand. It will hold all sorts of shaped pieces by moving the pegs around as needed.
     

     
    This Stanley portable bench vise is probably the best of its type on the market. It can be moved so the workpiece is presented at any angle.
     
  15. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to amateur in How to make windlass.   
    Hi Marcus,
     
    To complicate things: are you sure it is an 8 sided windlass?
    Quite often the Dutch use(d) 6-sided ones. 
     
    I don't have much experience in this type, but I think working from the thickest part is the easiest: plane the whole thing 6 sided, starting from (almost:) ) square stock (you can use the sides to mark the part that has to be removed). Then you can mark the thinner ends of the windlass. 
    Finall, remove the middle part, and replace by that iron 'gear'.
    I found making two identical parts more difficult than making one, and splitting it.
    btw the square holes for the spokes are in the outer part, and not, as in your picture in the thicker middle part.
     
    Jan
     
     
  16. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to make windlass.   
    Ab Hoving replied 
    He thinks either 6 or 8 sided existed. Depending on the size of the ship and the power one needed to use it. 
    Free choices. 
     
    For the Dutch speakers. 
    (Ik denk dat beide varianten voorkwamen. Uitgaande van de grootte van het schip en de kracht die nodig was om te bedienen. Vrije keuze dus.
    groet,
    ab) 
     
    Marcus 
  17. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to make windlass.   
    @amateur
     
    Hi Jan, 
     
    Thanks for clearing that up. I looked at all the plans which are all 2D and all the books I have and I can't tell if it 6 or 8 sided. I am just assuming it is 8 sided. I found a picture on another site from a Fluit and he has it 8 sided.
     

     
    From a professional model maker 

     

     
    I'll pm Ab Hoving here on MSW and see what his opinion is. He is the expert on 17 century Dutch ships. 
     
    @Louie da fly
     
    Hi Steven, 
     
    Scale of the Zeehaen is 1: 37.5, so it is 110mm. The plan is 1: 75 and I doubled it all to get a bigger model with more details. Just don't know where to put it once finished. Oh well.
    Sharp tools is what I use as well, vice for stabilization, glove depending on what I cut. 
     
    Marcus 
     
  18. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from amateur in How to make windlass.   
    Ab Hoving replied 
    He thinks either 6 or 8 sided existed. Depending on the size of the ship and the power one needed to use it. 
    Free choices. 
     
    For the Dutch speakers. 
    (Ik denk dat beide varianten voorkwamen. Uitgaande van de grootte van het schip en de kracht die nodig was om te bedienen. Vrije keuze dus.
    groet,
    ab) 
     
    Marcus 
  19. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to amateur in How to make windlass.   
    Hi Marcus, 
     
    that drawing is not showing the profile of the windlass, but the cross-section of the ratchet-wheel. Hence the weird appearance.
     
    Jan
  20. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Bob Cleek in How to make windlass.   
    @amateur
    The drawing shows it is 8 sided. Wierd looking 8 sided so I'm doing a regular 8 sided. 
    I am working on two attempts, one is where I will do it in 3 pieces and gluing them together and one is doing it in one piece, again. 

     
     
    @Bob Cleek
    Using a little vice bolted to a Dremel drill stand clamped to the table. I would not attempt holding it in my hand. 

     
     
    @allanyed 
    Allen, 
    Thanks for the advice on the wood, I'll remember that next time when I look in my stash. 
    Not really Kevlar but a fillet glove. 

     
    Yes, you lose the feel of the wood and the wood slides a bit. I just wished the had little rubber grips and they may make something like it. The glove has protected my hand several times from a knife. It is cut-resistant NOT cut proof or puncture resistant. 
     
    Marcus 
  21. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to make windlass.   
    @amateur
    The drawing shows it is 8 sided. Wierd looking 8 sided so I'm doing a regular 8 sided. 
    I am working on two attempts, one is where I will do it in 3 pieces and gluing them together and one is doing it in one piece, again. 

     
     
    @Bob Cleek
    Using a little vice bolted to a Dremel drill stand clamped to the table. I would not attempt holding it in my hand. 

     
     
    @allanyed 
    Allen, 
    Thanks for the advice on the wood, I'll remember that next time when I look in my stash. 
    Not really Kevlar but a fillet glove. 

     
    Yes, you lose the feel of the wood and the wood slides a bit. I just wished the had little rubber grips and they may make something like it. The glove has protected my hand several times from a knife. It is cut-resistant NOT cut proof or puncture resistant. 
     
    Marcus 
  22. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to make windlass.   
    @Gregory
    I'll take a good look at Chuck"s windlass. I like the idea that the slats with the holes are glued on. One can make them more accurate. 
     
    @Bob Cleek
    You should see my box of tried parts. Some items have been done several times. Practice, practice is how it gets better and that item will only have to be done once on the next ship. 
     
    You said it "thinner cuts", I need to control my movements better. I'm using the softer parts of the walnut. Sharp tools is what I use and wearing kevlar gloves so my fingers are protected. 
     
    Marcus 
  23. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How to make windlass.   
    Hi, 
     
    I am attempting to make the windlass for my Fluit, Zeehaen 1639. I made one but it is off on one side, so I want to make a new one. I make them by hand using a small planer, carving tools, knives, files, home made punches and sand paper. 
     
    The first one is from walnut and want to stick with that wood as I have a lot of that and easy to cut. 
     
    The easy part is making 8 sides with a plane and then it becomes a challenge. 
     
    1st attempt 

     
    Original plan (sorry about the measurement scribbles) 

     
    Question. 
    Is it better to make separate segments and then glue them together or one piece ? 
     
    Has someone else done this by hand and are there any other posts on MSW about this? 
     
    All advise is appreciated. 
    Thanks, 
    Marcus 
  24. Like
    flying_dutchman2 got a reaction from Bob Cleek in How to make windlass.   
    @Gregory
    I'll take a good look at Chuck"s windlass. I like the idea that the slats with the holes are glued on. One can make them more accurate. 
     
    @Bob Cleek
    You should see my box of tried parts. Some items have been done several times. Practice, practice is how it gets better and that item will only have to be done once on the next ship. 
     
    You said it "thinner cuts", I need to control my movements better. I'm using the softer parts of the walnut. Sharp tools is what I use and wearing kevlar gloves so my fingers are protected. 
     
    Marcus 
  25. Like
    flying_dutchman2 reacted to Gregory in How to make windlass.   
    If it was me, I would make the end pieces separate, and add the ratchet piece in the middle..
     
    You might also try the building style that Chuck made with his little windless kit, although the shape is somewhat different..
     

     
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