Ondras71

The moment has finally come, "finally", because I made two sails all week long and made a total of 12 of them. Each time something went wrong (stains), I made a mistake (wrong course of the warp and weft), after the third attempt it turned out that  I drew the template wrong, the fourth one had stains again, etc. But finally the model is finished.
All in all, with such simple rigging there is not much to describe, so maybe I will share an idea (found on YT and simplified) for a different way of making coils of ropes hung on belaying pins.
There are, of course, several methods for making and hanging coils, and one of them involves tying them in such a way that there is a single loop at the top and only this loop is attached to the belaying pin. The original video is here: How to make coils.
Taking into account that the scale is smaller, I used a 6mm round dowel in which I quickly cut a groove.
1. I braided dowel 4 times

2. I passed one loop

3. I put the second loop into the first loop

4. I tightened everything together

5. the size of the loop can be adjusted with the free end of the rope

I don't know how this method will work at 1:100, but at 1:50 it's certainly a good idea.
 
And now a few pictures:








Greetings
Tomek

Hello everybody,
I'm slowly making progress with the building of the quarter galleries. First Im made myself a certain supply of mouldings. These mouldings have to be prebent. On a scale of 1:32, boxwood mouldings are quite stubborn. Cold bending and clamping them in place is not an option, nor is it any fun, as the slightest slippage disturbs the whole arrangement considerably. Heating with an iron doesn't work with mouldings either. After some try and error, I got stuck with the hot air gun. However, you have to work carefully with it, so that the moulding can be bent and remains in its curved shape, it has to be heated quite strongly, but the surface should not get brown. A moment too long will result in a charred surface. The model in the Nationalmuseet at Copenhagen has painted mouldings, but I prefer to leave them natural.
 
Here you can see my somewhat primitive bending device.

The bent moulding is then filed at the ends so that the ends match the profile.

 
In the corner areas, however, the curves become so tight that bending no longer works.
I used the scraper to round off the middle moulding, which was very tedious. In the protruding corner area of the lower gallery end, I cut a round disc with the circular hole saw, clamped it in the upright drill and inserted the scraper there while the machine was running. The long wood areas turned out well, the cross wood areas can be thrown away. But it only needs a 50-60° cut-out, so it worked.
 


The lower "drop" of the side gallery was sanded freehand from a piece of pear wood.
 

Now a few more photos from the state of construction
 

 

 

The windows do not fit very well, I will make new ones, now, that the exact shape is fix.
Best regards,
Matthias
 

I assembled half of the ship's hull.

I started building the ship from the bow. I want to build a small part, then sand the inside. If the fragment is large, sanding will be inconvenient.

 

Thanks to all.
Knee of the head.
With Le Gros Ventre, I installed the knee of the head only on the already completely finished hull, which caused me a bit of a problem (the gap between the stem and the knee of the head). That's why I decided to make and attach the knee of the head already at this stage of the construction. In this case, the installation went without any problems.        

Sorry, the anchor stock was backwards :

Well, that's where we are at the moment.

I think the books have some errors...
Standard 81T0833

This arrangement is therefore not correct at all.

And is shamelessly copied in the next book.

And this is what it actually looks like in the drawing.
A channel or rigging rail a little bit lower.
The Calderkraft model also follows this arrangement. Thanks @Mr Pleasant 
 
 
And so does our Russian colleague.
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=71379  thanks @firdajan

next
horizontal planking or curved straight
Most from this period seem to go for horizontal.
The curved straight ones are starting to become a bit old-fashioned in this period, it seems to me

Thanks for following

In the meantime, i continued with the fore castle basis.
 
This time I checked in time whether any problems will arise with the schrouds.

So yes, my cardboard structure was much too wide at the top. Error corrected just in time.

The base starts at an angle of 45° following the (few) remains of the fore castle. And then with a curve upwards. As always too high or too long, shortening later is easier than lengthening.

Applying the second was a little more challenging.

Additional temporary supports were then installed. And i continued with finishing the waist. 

Gluing done on starboard side, now on to port side. Sanding is for later.

10,
 
Pictures of the early Pinas.








 

All ship models together so far. All on a scale of 1 : 87.
Top from left to right; Chebec, Venetian Pinque, Ghanjah (Oman)
Under; Tartane, Swelhals,  Cog, Pinas, Galeotta.
Not in the picture; Egyptian (Pharao time) merchant ship, English Canalboat, Stadsaeck (Zutphen 1684)
See also;  www.constantwillems.nl
 
Constant
 

Hello everyone.
Last year I successfully completed the construction of the Le Gros Ventre model according to Gerard Delacroix's monograph and I chose L'Amarante as the next model (also according to GD's monograph). I started the construction of the POF at the end of last year and will gradually publish photos from the construction process here.
First, I made a jig for installing the individual frames on the keel and started assembling the keel.
     

Thank you very much friends, I am trying my best..😁
 
Finally the main lower parts of the masts..🔥
 


Temporary direction signs created for exact machining directions..
 

The tops are machined and holes drilled for the location of the lower tie-down points..
 


Finished lower parts of the masts..
 


(Manual dividing device)

Done..💥


Now tops and topmasts..🔥

5
 
The rudder was composed of two planks glued together with graphite in between.
I made the hinges from very thin brass plate, copper tube of 1.2 mm thick externally and copper wire of thick.0,8 mm
 
First the making of the tubes, with a length of about 1.2 mm.

Then the tails to be attached to the stern. They were bent into the right shape and fixed on a piece of wood of the same thickness as the stern. Through this an aluminum rod of about 1 mm thick. This rod should prevent solder from flowing into the tube. Aluminium cannot be soldered with normal soft solder. All this secured with tape and then soldered. Finally, excess solder was carefully filed away.
The pre-bent tails for the rudder were clamped on a piece of wood of the same thickness as the rudder and connected with a copper rod. This was soldered to the tails.
 

After filing away excess solder, the rod between the tails was cut loose and the individual parts were brought to the correct length.
This created the hinges ready to be attached to the rudder and stern


I never paint the iron parts (including the cannon barrels) black on my models. You don't see this anywhere on old images, always a kind of dark grey, REVELL matt 46.
 
Because it is far from certain what the workplace at the bow looked like, I had to rely on the rather different opinions of Hoving and de Weerdt.
 
As I mentioned before, the windlass could also be used to secure the anchor cable. The anchor bitt has therefore become superfluous and can therefore be omitted. That gives a lot more space at the bow. That extra space seems necessary to me because there had to be room on the deck of Barents' expedition ship to accommodate two boats. The boats could not be towed because they had to sail constantly between large ice floes. Moreover, Gerrit de Veer writes twice in his book that the boats had to be put out.
But there is always the possibility that both boats were stacked on top of each other.
 Hoving omits the anchor bitt and puts the windlass close to the foremast. De Weerdt does place the anchor beting together with the windlass. As a result, there is not enough space for the two boats.
 Because I make a model of a pinas, and not the specific ship of Barents, my model can suffice with one boat.
 
The situation on the photo above is entirely my responsibility.
Directly behind the foremast are dubble bitts with a cross-piece, with holes for a number of belaying-pins for attaching the various ropes that come from above and the front. In addition, there is a bittt, necessary for hoisting the yards in the foremast and the windlass.
 
 
 

Next,
The further finishing of the cannon deck. And start building the basis for the  waist and the fore castle.

There is also a cabin at the front. The crew of the (optional) cannon has a lot of space again...
The sloping side of the cabin will later serve as a basis for a staircase

I run out of wood supplies. So the men from the sawmill were put to work (me...)
There is material of 3,4,5,6,7,8 and 9mm thickness back in stock.

Thanks for following

4
 
In order to meet reality as much as possible, it was necessary to make an elevation along the bulwark. In reality, a stringer ran along the struts, covered with a plank. I made that as a beam along the bulwark with  the struts placed on top later. Underneath it ran the nibbling strake. At the top right you can see how I thought the deck planks were notched in a plank along the struts. Hovink thought that was exaggerated and stated that everything had to be done cheaply and quickly with those small ships, and advised to leave that out.
 


On the deck the six king planks, with the planks in between. The planks don't bend with the shape of the hull, but I made different widths that sometimes interlock. On excavated wrecks you never see nice neat straight planks like we do today. It was not important when a plank tapered as also can be seen everywhere in floors of old buildings in those days, and then often very wide. The tree from which they sawed the planks had not the same thickness everywhere.
 
The deck finished. There are three entrances to the deck below. In the middle the large hatch which will be equipped with gratings.

 In front of the entrances to the cabin is an elevation with a slot underneath. Through that slot protruded the tiller in which at the end was a vertical stick operated by the helmsman, who stood on the elevation in front of the mizzen mast  Behind it the hole for the mizzen mast. So the base of the mast was on that elevation.
It is not the well-known construction with a whipstaff. There is reason to believe that this was the case here, according to Hoving's research.

 After applying the rahout, this phase was finished and the two superstructures above the rahout could be started, as supports for a large bend wooden lattice.
 
To keep checking the correct shape of the construction of the after castle and midship, I glued a cardboard mold to the first stanchions with a few dots of glue. On it I drew the shape. Since the stanchions above the deck end up above the rahout, slots had to be made through them.
 

The deck on the cabin is also equipped with planks. The mould has been removed here and the stanchions are ready to be planked on the outside.
 


 The drawings in Gerrit de Veer's report show that geometric figures were drawn on the head knee, which was common on such ships of that time. Since I'm not going to paint the model, I had to do it in a different way, and I chose a cut relief.
First I copied the contours of the drawing, and sawed out the part.
 

Then I attached it to a board with double-sided tape. The object is so small that it is impossible to edit it without it being fixed on something.


 First the drawing was applied in pencil, guided by the images of Gerrit de Veer and the interpretation of Ab Hoving. The pattern wasn't quite the same because otherwise it would be way too small.
With the following tools I cut it out. Two razor-sharp screwdrivers, a pin and a snap-off knife.


 The head knee was then attached to the stem.

 

The planks I use are made of pear wood and paranapine. If I want a plank of 3.5 mm wide, I take a board of that thickness and draw parallel lines every 1,5/2 mm. When I saw them out by hand with a fret-saw I have planks of a size of 1,5 x 3,5 mm. After filing and sanding, I am left with about a little more than a millimeter. I do have a fret-saw machine , but it's way too fast and inaccurate.
 
 
In the picture a number of planks, ready to be attached. In real life, those planks are often no longer than seven meters, so that also has to be taken into account.

When attaching to the trusses, it is a matter of fitting and measuring to get a good gradient in width. Especially at the bow it needs to be bent. I then hold that plank in boiling water (or sometimes in my mouth) for a while.
 
To show the caulking seams, the sides of the planks are smeared with pencil in the softest possible hardness. It makes a lot of mess when gluing, but when the whole thing is fixed and I start sanding/filing it all disappears and it looks beautiful. I use a lot of paper tape and elastic to get the planks in place. I never use nails.
 
The result after careful sanding of the hull. At the bow, the lower planks will become sometimes too narrow at the end. So two planks have to be replaced by one plank which can  be seen here.
 
And here at the stern sometimes one plank had to end in two planks.
 
After that work, it was the deck's turn. First, a deck of 0.6 mm thick plywood, which would serve as an underground for the planks. The places of six king planks were drawn on it. In the deck, they provided a strong longitudinal connection over the rafters, and were about twice as thick as the deck planks. In the end, there is not much left to see because the top is sinked down between  the deck planks.
 
 
On the deck, the places are cut out for the masts.  The large hatch, which will soon consist of two grid hatches, has already been cut. There will be two more hatches in the deck, but since they will be closed I didn't make any holes for them.
What will also has to stand  on the deck are the windlass, bitts and  bitts with cross-pieces.
 
The windlass itself can function very well as an anchor bitt for small ships. Hoving places the windlass directly behind the foremast. In the Dutch city Harlingen a replica is built of this ship on which the windlass stands a long way further. In the 17th century description of shipbuilding from that time: "De Nederlandsche Scheepsbouwkonst" by Cornelius van Yk (1697) it is made clear on page 112 that no anchor bitt is needed for small ships and that the windlass can be used instead of a capstan.  
Section of page 112 in the book.
 
Once the slab was secured under the deck, it was time to make the bulwarks. Because the bulwarks tilt slightly backwards everywhere, it formed a problem at the bow. I hadn't made any plywood struts there. On the bow I now made a mold that formed the right angle for the bulwark at the edges. To prevent the planks from gluing themselves to the mold, I covered it with cello tape. Wood glue does not adhere to them. Furthermore, the mould had to be able to slide backwards when unloading because the deck is wider there.
 
 
After attaching the planks of the bulwark, the mold could be removed. The two small holes that were needed to secure the mold later disappeared under the deck planks. The bulwark is three planks high, but the construction is sturdy enough to stand in that shape without a mold. This was followed by the removal of the plywood trusses. I broke it down with a pair of tongs. This was followed by a precise job of filing the stumps that remained in place on the same hight  of the deck.

The cabin was fitted with two doors on the deck side. Doors and planks (veneer thick approx. 0.8 mm.) are glued to a piece of plywood of one mm. thick. The wall of the cabin is also a truss mould for the further construction at the rear of the ship.
At the location of the future gun ports, I made the necessary openings in plywood. The front gun gate has not yet been made here. It is positioned in the curve of the bow and appears in a closed state when the hull is finished. Also, the top wale has already been installed here.

 

To protect the underlying construction of the superstructure during the planking of the hull, I made roughly both sides above the upper timber from cardboard. The hull is already partly equipped with planks. The part between the upper two wales, in which the gun ports are placed, are made of paranapine. The wood is fine-grained, not too hard and easy to bend and work with. The planks are a maximum of 3.5/4 mm. wide. Which equates to about 33 cm in reality.
The curve above the transom is now also provided with planks. The opening for the rudder pin, the tiller, has been cut out.
 
The joints of the planks are provided with lip weldings. It is important that the entire connection is fitted together for two planks outside the ship. If that is exactly right, they are all different, then one of the planks is attached and the other is provided with a lip seal, at the other end, with a third plank on the other side. This second plank is then attached and the entire length of the ship is finished. Planks on wooden ships were never lomger than 7 m.


The stern was made before the  planks were attached. The planks go over it.
 
The very dark planking between the two wales were too dark. I removed them and replaced them with pear planks.
The part between the upper wales was finally closed. You can clearly see how the lip welds are placed between the planks.
 

One of the mysteries of such ships concerns the large number of gun ports, sixteen of them. If you count that there were 17 men on the ship, it is hard to imagine that there was a cannon behind every port. In those days, no seabattle was fought by firing all the guns at the same time from the broadside of the ship. Rather, we should see that as skirmishes with a few very light artillery pieces, at most 3 pounders, and  muskets. The large number that appears in many prints from that time (not only in the account of Barents' voyage) with the mouth of a cannon from each gate should rather be seen as an interesting depiction of a ship.
 
It is not possible to find out how many cannons this early Pinas had, perhaps at most about four. They were small cannons on mostly three-wheeled carriages. Small fire mouths, rear loaders, which stood with a gaff in a hole on the side wall were also used.
My assumption is that those many gun ports could also have served well to row the ship in case of an emergency. The ship is very small and can certainly be moved with oars. Somewhere in De Veer's report it is also said that the ship is being rowed. Whether it means that it is pulled by a rowing boat or that it was rowed independently will never be clear.

In this topic consisting of several episodes, I am going to tell you something about the construction of this ship. Although it is very small in real life, and many times smaller on a scale of 1:87, it was a fairly difficult job to get it done and it is based on a lot of research.
At the beginning of June 2018, I started building a model of the ship on which Willem Barents sailed to Nova Zembla in 1596. The Northern trade route had to be found, but that failed and Barents had to spend the winter on this island in the Arctic Ocean with 16 other crewmenbers. But the year after they returned to Holland.
Shortly after this event, drawings were made of this ship that served as illustrations for the travelogue of Gerrit de Veer, one of the members of the crew.

 The two ships of Heemskerk and De Rijp. The commander was Barents, who was on Heemskerk's ship. The names of the ships are not mentioned anywhere.
 
As a result, reconstruction attempts were made to find out what the ship looked like. Ab Hoving has written a book with fine detailed reconstruction drawings, which form the basis of the construction of the model with which I started.
By the way, I am not supposed to call this model “the ship of Barents”. I never build models of ships that had a name, but only build ship types. In consultation with Ab Hoving, we decided to call this type an "Early Pinas". A Pinas is a very well-known type that was built frequently, especially after 1600 in Holland. This ship dates from just before that time, around 1590, and at that time a number of later inventions had not yet been applied.
Since I have built more ship models on HO scale, so 1:87, it was logical that I would do that again. The models can then be compared in terms of size.
Installing the rigging took a lot of time, also because it was all still unknown territory for me.
 
In the previous 40 years, I did long-term research on Latin-rigged ships that sailed around the Mediterranean, and built models on a scale of 1:87 as a result of those studies. The rigging and hull construction are vastly different from square-rigged ships.
This was my first square-rigged ship. At first I looked despondently at the drawings of the rigging, but after a while I understood all the functions. Repeatedly, I had to remove it again and try again.
 
Ab Hoving was always ready to provide me with the necessary advice. His help was indispensable because he had also carried out the entire research on this ship and had described it in his book;
HET SCHIP VAN WILLEM BARENTS. Een hypothetische reconstructie van een laat-zestiende eeuws jacht  (A hypothetical reconstruction of a late sixteenth century yacht).ISBN 90-6550-772-8
 
Many of the techniques that can be found here are also described on my website; www.constantwillems.nl
And the same applies to this model; it is a reconstruction, so there is a chance that the ship looked different in details.
 
 
The construction of the hull
 
A start was made with transferring the trusses, obtained from data from Hoving's drawings, to paper. Those drawings are on a scale of 1 : 75 and it was a simple action to take those drawings to a copy shop where they were transferred to scale HO., 1 : 87.
 
Like all my models, I built this boat mainly from pear wood.  Part of it is made of paranapine. It is built on rafters of plywood thick 3 mm. Actually a bit too thick but I tried to imitate the lip welds of the original construction and then a wide enough surface is needed to make those welds on those rafters.
 
The trusses as I first drew them
 
I always work with half-trusses, as can be seen in the drawing.
When all the half-trusses on the port side are glued to the central  truss, all imperfections on that side can be repaired very accurately by filing away excess material. When everything is satisfactorily secured, I start with the other side. To this end, moulds are made from the already glued trusses, which are carefully sawn out and glued to starboard. Thus, everything is completely equal on both sides.
 
The longitudinal truss is made of plywood 1.5 mm thick. The bow, keel and stern are made of pear wood. These parts were glued all around against the longitudinal truss so that on the port and starboard side there is still above those parts 0,75 mm to support the ends of the planks. The locations of the numbered half-trusses are indicated on the longitudinal trusses, as shown on the drawings in the book.
 
Because the longitudinal truss is quite thin, it can bend easily, so it was screwed onto a board and I added small distance partitions between the rafters. At the bow arrived a filler piece of balsa wood that had been filed into the right shape to give the planks at the bow the correct shape. After unscrewing the longitudinal truss, it turned out to be an indeformable unit and the other rafter halves could be glued.
 
When everything was in place, on both sides of the longitudinal bilge, I made the stern. The construction has quite a few bends and to make that easier, a mold was placed on the work board to make the right shapes.
 
The top piece was made of balsa wood. The black hole is the interior of the cabin where a window was later added. The lower timbers have already been installed here, which already gave the framework a lot of strength. The transom is of one mm. plywood with the planks glued on top in the right pattern. Later, the openings were added.
The support boards between a number of trusses are painted black. They are behind the open, or closed,  gun ports.
The struts for the bulwarks were made of plywood. This is only necessary  to attache the  planks above the deck which form the bullwark. Once they are glued on, the  plywood pieces were carefully removed and then be replaced by the struts in the correct dimensions and material.
 
The top of the bulwark was called the rahout (Dutch word; ra is yard, hout is wood). On an early pinas it was customary to lower the yards on the bulwarks in order to stow or strike the sails. This is how the name rahout came about. On later ships, the sails were stowed or struck on the hoisted yards.

First. The schrouds problem
Fortunately, cherry wood is very flexible and this can be easily solved. By stretching the frames towards each other.
This is something for later, if I do this now I won't have enough space to work in the rear castle.

 
Continued with determining the position of the decks.
And the "gun wale". On this beam were the swivel guns placed on the first version of the Mary Rose, on the current version only 3 would have remained.

Memory aid. Where is what 


Adjustment of the stern

The position of the 3 swivel guns

further surgery of the stern

Upper deck and castle deck determined. Upper castle still to do

current status

Thaks for following

Thank you very much friends, I am trying my best..😁
 
Finally the main lower parts of the masts..🔥
 


Temporary direction signs created for exact machining directions..
 

The tops are machined and holes drilled for the location of the lower tie-down points..
 


Finished lower parts of the masts..
 


(Manual dividing device)

Done..💥


Now tops and topmasts..🔥

Hello,
the construction of the tops is completed.


I will soon continue with the completion of the masts.

Thanks to all for the interest in my report.
In the meantime, I have made some progress on building the
top of the main mast.
Currently, I'm going to make the supports for the railing.

Hello everyone,
Just a small note today, perhaps the information will be helpful for some of you.
The fancy moldings of the TRE KRONER are an important element, so I have been looking around to see if it is possible to get an ornamental scraper wich is more precise than I can achieve by hand with a file and saw.
After several inquiries, I ended up at the company MetallEhrnsberger in Teublitz/Germany, which also accepts such small private orders. I had to send them a CAD drawing of the desired profiles and of course select a material for the scraper, that was all I needed. I chosed 1 mm thick steel, the costs were €40 altogehter. I am very happy with the result. I couldn't have made the scraper that nice.
The material thickness of 1 mm also makes it possible to sharpen the burr several times if it gets a bit round.
I used boxwood as the material for the strips. I had sawn up a supply of it some time ago and left it to dry.
 


 

Matthias
 
 
 

Thank you very much friends, I am trying my best..😁
 
Finally the main lower parts of the masts..🔥
 


Temporary direction signs created for exact machining directions..
 

The tops are machined and holes drilled for the location of the lower tie-down points..
 


Finished lower parts of the masts..
 


(Manual dividing device)

Done..💥


Now tops and topmasts..🔥

Thank you very much friends. thank you for the like.
 
I'm continuing with the rotating chamber cannons on the railing, luckily there will only be four.
I found the current cannon in a book by Ab Hoving: Het Schip Van Wilem Barents and painted it.

Then the turning began. It is very small against already created cannons.

Created pockets for exchange chambers.

Of course, you need to start making a larger number, they slowly decrease during the work..


Added chambers..


Result OK..


 

Děkuji moc přátelé, děkuji za další lajky.😍
 
Kormidlo hotovo..🔥



Loď vypadá na palubě dobře..




Udělám stojan a pevně postavím loď...💥