Keith Black

Thank you, Rick. You're correct, my earlier mistakes are mostly forgotten but these new ones bug the snot out of me.

Thank you, brother Tom. I got the shaky hand syndrome also, another reason to sally forth. It's a real challenge to reach into the midst of the center rigging with a tiny drop of CA to fix a shroud knot. I almost get dizzy watching the end of the needle.

Thanks, Mark. What bugs me the most is, it's a mistake I could easily have avoided.

Johnny, in the photos of the Tennessee the deadeyes are dead straight and of course I was/am trying to replicate that. Thank you for the reassurance. "Good point, as I hadn't noticed the deadeye until it was pointed out and I looked again closely ('Just ordered new glasses because my prescription changed, but it will take 1 - 2 weeks to get them). 'Guess Keith and I share a couple traits, since on a Pennsylvania long rifle I made (and was showing to some new friends recently) - I kept pointing all the things I 'did wrong' (mostly small details). A man with some expertise in antique firearms said to forget real or imagined 'faults' - he thought it was beautifully done ... as is Keith's U.S.S. Tennessee !" Thank you, Johnny.

Too funny.

Chris, what is the life expectancy for a paper model? I asked Mr Google but he didn't know diddly.

Johnny, thanks for taking the time. Good on ya.

My thoughts as well, Paul.

Micha, tear it back. Remove the planking if possible and see how that goes. If you can't remove the planking maybe we can come up with something that will help you save the build. Off the top of my head, if the planks can't be removed, you might try building up the inside keel height. you could also remove rib notches and or make new notches. Isn't the keel covered? If so building up the keel hight wouldn't show. Glad to see you bought another Roar kit. Even if you manage to save Roar 1.0 it's always going to bug you. Building Roar 2.0 will go much better because this time you're aware of what you need to do and where the pitfalls lie. Proceed forth with great vigor......and have fun with it. That's what all this is about, finding enjoyment working with your hands.

Chris, thank you for the comeback. The way you reworded the title is fine, I was curious as to the why of it, itch scratched.

I can't/couldn't build just one if I tried. I'm constantly amazed at you guys that can take two dimensional paper and create a three dimensional realistic object. I bet ya'll are great at putting up wallpaper!

Johnny, I knew about the Madawaska's name being changed to the Tennessee before I started the build log. I did not to include Madawaska in the original build log title. That was added 6/8 weeks ago? I guess it's okay that it was but I think I should have had a say or at the very least notified. Just saying. In fact, see my post #634, page 22.

My build log's name was changed not by me but by someone within the MSW organization. I kind of don't care but then I kinda do. I wasn't asked, notified or told why. One day I logged in and saw the log name had been changed. I follow builds where I see those log names have also been changed. It's been awhile since the name was changed for my build log but it's been gnawing at me so I thought I needed to ask.

Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. Maggie update.....her progress has slowed these past two weeks due to an infection but hopefully once that clears she'll continue making strides in her recovery. Thank you again to each of you for your prayers and thoughts for her, I've been able to make some limited progress on the Tennessee's main shrouds. I look back with envy at those days when when I was able to devote eight hours plus at the worktable. I should have worked longer hours back then as now my eyesight for close work is diminishing. I've always been a bit of a perfectionist and so naturally my mindset when I first started working on the Tennessee was get it done as perfect as possible. Because the grains of sand drain ever faster my mindset now is, better quit messing about and get it done. It was never going to be perfect, I no longer have the luxury of tilting at windmills. Notice the loupe among the tools used for running the shrouds. I had to start using the loupe to check my work on the deadeye lashings as on one pair I ran the line through the same hole twice. I didn't catch this till after the deadeyes were glued in place and the shroud line attached. Once upon a time I would have redone it, now, I let er fly. I don't think anyone will ever notice and I really can't tell and I know which pair it is. But it nags at me, so be it. I went back through the log and I couldn't find where I explained the how and why I lash the deadeye pairs off ship. The reason being the deadeyes are too small and there just isn't the room. The main's channel shrouds requires the measurement from one deadeye top the the other deadeye top to be 0.70 inches, same size as a US penny. To keep the size constant I've superglued the rotating adjust balls of the third hand to keep the distance fixed. That way I don't have to use a ruler to check each pair though I do spot check to make sure the adjustment is still set correctly. Starboard side. Try as hard as I might, I can't seem to get em perfect aligned. Oh well, more shadows in the wind. Port side. The second pair in from the left is the pair where I ran the line through the same hole twice, top deadeye, top hole. I've always intended for the model to be viewed from the starboard side so it was pretty easy 'let it fly' rationalization. Nine more pair of deadeyes and shroud lines and I can set about with ratline weaving. Again, thank you to all.

Marcel, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

MM, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

Congratulations on another fine build, Bob. Another peach on an ever growing tree.

There ain't no backtrackin' when you start drinkin' kraken.

That looks great, Bob. I'm impressed with your water especially considering it's your first attempt.

Fred, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

You're definitely not cheating. Inlay is not my cuppa on a ship as you have pictured (though you did a very nice job of it) but I think it's a great idea for the right boat/ship. A gondola comes to mind and maybe a 15th century vessel. Maybe trimming off the rope bands and only using the middle band applied around the galleries might look okay?

Perfect, Valeriy.

Yeah, glue marks wouldn't look natural. I thought you were talking about chipped paint and a scratch or two.

Eric, slight/constant scarring would have been part of Peerless's life, is it really necessary to remove the scars? You're doing a great job of building an honest boat.

IMHO, what makes the footropes look as realistic as we modelers can achieve is evenness along the yards. I notice that on the starboard side of your main main's yard the line between the stirrups droops too far down. Making the footrope lines even between stirrups and attached points will make a world of difference in appearance.