Keith Black

The Tennessee was 355 feet in length and 45 feet two inches at beam. The model hull is 30 inches in length and 5.5 inches at beam. The shortness of the hull is most noticeable at the stern. I've had to crowd a number of elements at the stern and that disturbs me but that's having to play the hand I was dealt.  
 After getting the stern area hollowed out as needed I turned my attention the the ports. Once again the shortness of the hull made it necessary to cut only ten ports on the second deck level verses eleven as was on the Tennessee. I had to plug and fill in the top deck ports of the original model as they were in no way positioned correctly to allow for the chain rails. On the original model the ports had glued paper as covers. After cutting the ports square I let in wood port covers a fraction to create shadow lines. Once the ports were done I then added the chain rails, added the piece of wood just below the top of the bulkhead that runs from each side of the bow completely a round the model, anchor guards and anchors.
 Making the starboard and port galleries proved to be the most complicated part of the hull. The trick was not so much in the making of one, it was making two that looked alike!
 If I've not given the proper name or term to an element, PLEASE provide the correct name/term where I'll know, thank you.
 I then started work on the inside bulkhead filling and sanding the vertical pieces of wood from the original model (I think the vertical pieces were bamboo) running horizontal strips for ports and the pin rails. I'm not real pleased with the pins put once they're covered with looped line I don't think one will see very much of them. 
 I still need to cut four ports at the stern, two each both starboard and port side of the eagle. 

As this is a solid wood hull my first step in correcting the model was to hollow out the stern section where I could get the ship's wheel and binnacles under the upper stern deck. The original model had the ships wheel in the open forward of the mizzen. H&H photos of the ships wheel can be seen in the previous post. 

Before I get too far a field I need to take a moment to thank those in the Nautical/Naval History side of this site. If not for member Talos I wouldn't have the majority of the H&H photos I have to reference and has also provided other photographs and drawing. Mark Taylor, Roger, Druxey, Canute, Steven, Dave and others have provided ideas, support and encouragement. If they hadn't been there for me, I wouldn't be here.
 In some of my photographs you see a little stick figure sailor, that's "Bob". I got tired of constantly trying to place my machinist ruler on the deck to gauge how high I needed to make an element. So I made Bob to represent a man 5'11'' in height (he's just shy of six tenths of an inch tall. Bob isn't going to be part of the final build but there maybe a Bob 2.0   

As this is a solid wood hull my first step in correcting the model was to hollow out the stern section where I could get the ship's wheel and binnacles under the upper stern deck. The original model had the ships wheel in the open forward of the mizzen. H&H photos of the ships wheel can be seen in the previous post. 

The Hatton and Hart photographs were/are my primary source for trying to create as much model authenticity as possible. Sometimes I have to assume, which I hate. Example being, on the upper stern deck a partial funnel profile can be seen behind and to the port side of a binnacle. (I may as well jump on this grenade while I'm here. This binnacle appears to be about five and a half feet tall, a foot and a half above the standard four feet. Access to viewing the compass is aided by a two step ladder propped up against it seen in the first of the four H&H photos.. I'm guessing the reason for the extra height is where the compass is above the railing and other metal objects. Please jump in with comments should you have other thoughts) All other photographs from the starboard point of view are and blurred and of no use determining if a starboard funnel is actually there. I chose one to be there due to ship designers seemingly love of and necessity for symmetry.     
 

You need not be afraid.  Everyone has been where you are and the amount of help is incredible.

Keith, your recovery is making for a very nice rebuild. I especially like your main deck, the dark color is beautiful. Your Tennessee belongs here as much as any scratch ship model. Keep up the good work and I pray you continue to recover (and build).

There have been several repairs of old models (many of which really weren't terribly accurate in the first place) undertaken by members of this forum, often with very good results, considering the limitations of the original model. I believe yours fits in well with these and you certainly have nothing to be ashamed of in putting this log up on the scratch build section.  I agree with mark and Roger - a very nice, clean and attractive piece of work.
 
And in its own right, it's a good record of a model of a type belonging to that time and place - in itself, a piece of history.
 
Steven

Druxey
It's territory I have the upmost respect for. For whatever reason I seem to be having a hard time coming up with a one word description of how I feel about the scratch build section of this site. Scared may not be the correct word but it's somewhere in that vicinity. 
 
Steven, thank you.

I was recently commissioned to restore to "Original Condition" A 1:100 model of the steamship Albertic. The model was knocked over and sustained considerable damage to the port side lifeboat deck Funnels and railings along with vents and all sorts of lines and wire stays.
 
I have made extensive photographs of the condition as I received it, and have begun recording the removal of the damaged parts that were still attached, A few surprises that were not evident when I viewed it at the clients premises have come to light.
I cobbled together a quick trolley so that I can move the model around, I will make a lightweight dust cover to keep the dust off the model.
 
I will no doubt be calling on the expertise of the membership for advice as I move forward.
 
As tragic as the damage is I am hoping that this will be a good experience and that I  rise to the occasion with a smile as things become repaired.
 
here are a few pictures to show the extent of my task.
 
Builders Name plate

 
Port side sustained the most damage
 

 
Starboard side suffered mostly inertial damage
 

 
The funnels took a beating because they are heavy and brass
 

 
A lot of loose parts were piled on the deck in front of the bridge
 

 
The stern end of the port lifeboat deck is badly bent and twisted
 

 
The stairs didn't fair too well either
 

 
Below the port lifeboat deck is the most damage on the hull I am really hoping that this area can be reworked without having to repaint the entire side, we will see?
 

 
A box of the loose pieces now lifted off the ship
 

 
Ouch
 

 
This will keep me busy over the next couple of three months. As I was removing all the big loose parts I was noticing how much of the fine lines and wire cables have also been damaged. many of the parts were attached with micro brass pins, all the lifeboat davits for instance.
 
Michael
 
 

Thank you for the welcome back and kind words, it means more than you'll ever know. 
 This is supposed to be the stern of the Tennessee. Anyone know what the element is directly next to the eagle's port side wing tip? Bath? The two elements below the eagle in line with the officer's latrines above? Flags? Thank you........Keith
 

First and foremost, to any that I offended during my first visit, my most sincere apologies! I came here loaded with an abundance of ignorance and I didn't try to hide it.
 Approximately three weeks after my original posting on January 14th, 2017 I had a stroke. I lost 30% of the vision in my right eye and my left hand was completely paralyzed. In fact, my stroke occurred while I was working on the Tennessee lifeboats. 
 Through the grace of God and dedicated physical therapist, I recovered the full use of my left hand. The vision in my right eye will remain at a negative 30% the rest of my life. 
 During recovery I vowed that should I regain the use of left hand, I would set about to make the Tennessee as right as I possibly could given the short comings of the hull, 10 inches too short and an inch to wide at the beam.
 For a year I tried to learn as much about the Tennessee as I could pouring over the Hatton and Hart photographs of scenes onboard the Tennessee, seeking out photographs other wood hull screw frigates, models, books and picture postcards. January of this year I stripped the model down to the bare hull and started over. This has been my therapy and what's kept my juices flowing
 Coming back two years later is just as awe inspiring as was my first time here. What you folks can do, the magic you fingers work leaves me in utter amazement!  
 I post a couple of pictures of my efforts to date, not so much as "look what I've done" but to complete a circle, to apologize, and to thank each and everyone here whom it was my pleasure to meet. 

I'll post pics shortly. I failed to mention the scale is 1:120. If there's fault with the original modeler it was his lack of maintaining scale which has lead me to think that that the model may have been created somewhere other than the US?? I'll leave that to discussion. I've tried to correct that by reducing the size of the cannon. I fought with this battle with myself for months. If all the original cannon and carriage had been there, I probably would have used them for the sake of originality. But because I would have had to make 50% of both for total complement I chose to go with smaller guns and off the shelf carriages (though I've had to modify them to make them work) As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words, shortly. Thank you for making me feel welcome......KB

Thank you Roger, Talos.
 I'm going to blue tape where and how I think the ports are located. I'll black out what I made for the officers latrines and come back with a photo and you can correct me if needed. I thought the top split cover was an element unto it's self and not that of the top part of a hatch cover. 
 Do you guys think I need to move this discussion to the scratch build section? I'm somewhat loath to do so as I'm not sure this project is worthy of what I consider pretty sacred territory. Neither do I want to clutter up this area of discussion if this isn't the proper place??.........Keith

Thank you Talos, I've thought of you many times as I poured over the link to images of the Tennessee you provided. 
 So you're thought is that the four rectangles (eagle in the middle of the four) are all gun ports? I could see that being the case for the top two but the bottom two? Wouldn't that mean they'ed be in the middle of and taking space away from the officers quarters? Also there's the color difference between covers of the top two and bottom two, plus the top two covers seem to stand proud from the hull where as the bottom two covers seem to be flush.  
I for sure don't know but I'll happily cut and make them all gun ports if that's your verdict. I just wanted to make sure before taking the knife to the hull. Thank you again..........Keith

Thank you Roger, Talos.
 I'm going to blue tape where and how I think the ports are located. I'll black out what I made for the officers latrines and come back with a photo and you can correct me if needed. I thought the top split cover was an element unto it's self and not that of the top part of a hatch cover. 
 Do you guys think I need to move this discussion to the scratch build section? I'm somewhat loath to do so as I'm not sure this project is worthy of what I consider pretty sacred territory. Neither do I want to clutter up this area of discussion if this isn't the proper place??.........Keith

I'm glad those were helpful in the past!
 
Yes, those ports are right in the middle of the Great Cabin. The guns are normally not mounted there and only moved there when needed. During battle, the entire cabin is disassembled anyway, so it's all clear deck there.
 
If you look at this photo of the inside of Constellation's great cabin, you can see her four main deck stern ports (currently open and with windows installed). As Roger commented, note how the inside is white-washed. The covers on the bottom ports aren't opened fully, so you're seeing the black paint on the outside of the port reflecting light. I'm also attaching a plan for the sailing sloop USS Plymouth's great cabin. Also a smaller ship and a different configuration (no quarter galleries for the latrines), but a round stern too so you can see how it affected the cabin..

Below deck area were often whitewashed to better reflect available light.  The white squares are the insides of the lids in whitewashed areas.
 
Roger

First and foremost, to any that I offended during my first visit, my most sincere apologies! I came here loaded with an abundance of ignorance and I didn't try to hide it.
 Approximately three weeks after my original posting on January 14th, 2017 I had a stroke. I lost 30% of the vision in my right eye and my left hand was completely paralyzed. In fact, my stroke occurred while I was working on the Tennessee lifeboats. 
 Through the grace of God and dedicated physical therapist, I recovered the full use of my left hand. The vision in my right eye will remain at a negative 30% the rest of my life. 
 During recovery I vowed that should I regain the use of left hand, I would set about to make the Tennessee as right as I possibly could given the short comings of the hull, 10 inches too short and an inch to wide at the beam.
 For a year I tried to learn as much about the Tennessee as I could pouring over the Hatton and Hart photographs of scenes onboard the Tennessee, seeking out photographs other wood hull screw frigates, models, books and picture postcards. January of this year I stripped the model down to the bare hull and started over. This has been my therapy and what's kept my juices flowing
 Coming back two years later is just as awe inspiring as was my first time here. What you folks can do, the magic you fingers work leaves me in utter amazement!  
 I post a couple of pictures of my efforts to date, not so much as "look what I've done" but to complete a circle, to apologize, and to thank each and everyone here whom it was my pleasure to meet. 

Thank you Talos, I've thought of you many times as I poured over the link to images of the Tennessee you provided. 
 So you're thought is that the four rectangles (eagle in the middle of the four) are all gun ports? I could see that being the case for the top two but the bottom two? Wouldn't that mean they'ed be in the middle of and taking space away from the officers quarters? Also there's the color difference between covers of the top two and bottom two, plus the top two covers seem to stand proud from the hull where as the bottom two covers seem to be flush.  
I for sure don't know but I'll happily cut and make them all gun ports if that's your verdict. I just wanted to make sure before taking the knife to the hull. Thank you again..........Keith

Welcome back Kieth. Glad that you've had a good recovery.

Can you find a larger photo or circle the area in question?   That whole area looks in shadow.

Nice, clean workmanship of an interesting subject.
 
Roger

Welcome back, Keith and it's great the recovery went well.   The model looks great.

First off, welcome back, I'm glad to hear about your recovery and see you back here.
 
As for the picture, do you mean the white rectangle right next to the eagle? That's the inside of the lower half of the port spardeck stern gunport.  The darker ones below are the black outsides of the two main deck stern ports, which are reflecting light because they are openly partially opened. In your lightened one you can just barely see the lower half of the portside port almost on edge with the camera. 
 
Tennessee had a round stern, where the timbers of the sides wrapped around the back continuously. This meant that instead of the open light structure and the array of windows like the stern of the frigate Constitution and other older ships, which were a major weak point (raking), it was as robust as the sides of the ship. It also meant that they could fit ports in the stern to cover the large blind spots on the quarters of the ships (roughly forty-five degrees back on either side of the ship). The sloop Constellation in Baltimore has a similar, but earlier form of this stern.
 
Though the ship is smaller and lacks the quarter galleries, you can see two similar gunports on either side of the sloop Hartford's stern eagle here.