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About DBorgens

  • Birthday 01/20/1957

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    Seattle, WA

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  1. Boats are certainly welcome. Mine hasn’t been kicked out yet. Dave B
  2. Unfortunately I don't have the proper tools now to for these good ideas. I did file another set using a lighted magnifier and a magnifying visor. Was able to make the axles round by working slowly. Found it somewhat relaxing which is good as I have a few dozen axles to file. 🙂 Dave B
  3. Allan, Great solution! Sure beats trying to make them round with a flat file. Thanks, Dave B
  4. Switching to guns. As other Pegasus builders have mentioned the canons and carriages are out of scale and not the most pleasing. I broke down and bought canons and carriages from Syren. My first freehand attempt had too much taper, I can do better. As I considered making a jig to assemble the carriages, a group member pointed out Chuck's jig for carriages on his Winchelsea log. His is similar to what I considered. So I started measuring calculating and making jigs. My second one was a success. See my description in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and ot
  5. Welcome aboard Matey, You're in the right place. Look around the build logs and search for a San Francisco log. I have learned a great deal simply reading logs and looking at pictures. Don't be afraid to ask questions and pick our brains, at least those who still have some. Dave B
  6. I purchased Syren canons and carriages for my Pegasus build and needed a jig to assemble consistent carriages. This article describes one method of making a carriage jig. This jig is sized for the smallest of Chuck's carriages. (Disclaimer; I considered making a jig when a club member pointed out Chuck's jig shown in his Winchelsea build log. Chuck's is similar to the one I planned.) Before building the jig, separate the sides and axles from the laser cut carriage kit and sand the laser char off from these parts. The first block is a trapezoid that sets the taper of the carriage sid
  7. Pegasus took a holiday as we did some home improving. Currently I have completed the second planking. Started at the bottom of the wale working down and with the garboard plank working up while alternating sides to keep everything symmetrical. At least somewhat symmetrical. With box wood becoming scarce, I used the kit walnut under the copper. Time to install the upper counter. There is no laser cut pattern for this piece so, after a couple of cardboard patterns, I made and installed the counter. During time I discovered that I am too narrow at the stern fas
  8. Keith, Wonderful work! Pardon my asking,but shouldn’t the vents face forward (see post 1147)? Perhaps my eyes are working backwards today. Dave B
  9. Does anyone else find starting the final planking intimidating? I so want to get the run of the strakes reasonably right. So I spent much time marking the location of the wales and the waterline (for reference). Judging from the plans the wale should be a few millimeters above the waterline at the waist. Having set the lines, it’s time to get started. I am using Chuck’s method of edge bending using dry heat. Practicing with a walnut strip, I found it fast and actually fairly easy. Switching to the boxwood plank, I formed the edge curve, then I formed it around the bow (actually freehan
  10. My original attachment of the gun port strips to bulkheads 5, 6 & 7 (which will be removed later) using double sided tape and clamps did not produce the proper contour. You can easily see the gaps. Why not try reheating and clamping in place? Since I could not use a hot water soak again, I applied heat using a covering iron from my RC sailplane days. I used the highest heat setting on the iron which produced a nice toasted effect. I’ll need to keep this in mind if I use the iron for final planking. After several heating and clamping cycles (fortunately, they cooled
  11. Mugje and Voyageur, Thank you for joining. The partitions were fun and provide an opportunity to work on the details while doing the heavier construction. We had company over the weekend so I haven’t been on the forum. I have a bit more catching to post and will do so shortly. Dave B
  12. Getting started with first planking. The kit supplied lime wood is nice to work with. Gap forming at bulkhead 1, looks like time to spile. The kit does not provide lime strips for spiling, so I switched to 1/2 inch wide basswood strips. First planking almost finished. The last strake had to be made in halves as ½ inch was not quite wide enough for the full curvature. Dave B
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