Keith Black

Next, I rigged blocks for lifts and sheets for the lower topsail.

Spent some time today wrapping up some belaying of roya/topsail control lines before I begin to work on the lower topsail.

Mark, thank you........KB

Mark, thank you........KB

I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. 
 I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc. 

In getting back to the deck guns I went over the gatling guns, signal cannon, and the one, eight inch Dahlgren gun I've completed. I've decided I can't do any better on the gatling guns. These are the 4.0 model and as poor as they are this is as good as it gets. They kinda look like gatling guns a couple of feet away?

I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. 
 I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc. 

The signal cannon was another story. I've always thought the first one I made looked more like a field piece than a signal cannon. On to signal cannon 2.0, 1.0 is on the left 

In getting back to the deck guns I went over the gatling guns, signal cannon, and the one, eight inch Dahlgren gun I've completed. I've decided I can't do any better on the gatling guns. These are the 4.0 model and as poor as they are this is as good as it gets. They kinda look like gatling guns a couple of feet away?

The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal. 
 1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file.
 2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle.  
 3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube)
 4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two  
 pieces.  

Those cannon look great form here and considering their size, they look very good.   My hat is off to you Keith.

It is my personal opinion that it is correct as I show it.
 

 
But everyone can make their own own decision.   Its a simple thing to adjust although it would be wrong for the period in my experience.  
 
In the Kriegstein example....yes the rigging is new....but the horse is not.  You only need to contact the owners of that beautiful model to find that out.  I dont know why everyone is fixating on this.....just do it the way you would prefer it to be.   I have said dozens of times that both methods are acceptable.  Yet the same people keep obsessing and challenging.
 
Let us not forget that I am making a model of a model here......and this is the way it is presented on the contemporary model.   You folks can alter it very easily.  Just please stop beating a dead horse about it....literally.   If you want me to say that all of you "over the tiller" guys are correct and it was never done the way it was show....I will do so if only it will put this issue to rest.

I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. 
 I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc. 

The signal cannon was another story. I've always thought the first one I made looked more like a field piece than a signal cannon. On to signal cannon 2.0, 1.0 is on the left 

In getting back to the deck guns I went over the gatling guns, signal cannon, and the one, eight inch Dahlgren gun I've completed. I've decided I can't do any better on the gatling guns. These are the 4.0 model and as poor as they are this is as good as it gets. They kinda look like gatling guns a couple of feet away?

Thanks Pat.  I am encouraged knowing that anything will *Pop* into my head.
 
Rob

Rob, it wasn't a waste of time, you learned something. Keep up the great work........KB

I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. 
 I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc. 

Waste of time was not the right description......
You are very correct....the only time I meant that was wasted was the time utilized for experimentation that was not used in actual building.
 
Time spent experimenting is NEVER wasted.
I just lurnt how not to make convincing fluffy billowing sails.
 
Rob

Rob, it wasn't a waste of time, you learned something. Keep up the great work........KB

Just a note:  After exhausting all other ideas to form billowing sails that represent a sail that is being drawn in via its bunt, clew and sheets....it has become apparent to me that attaining a similar look...one that is in harmony with all the other sails....is not easily done with such dissimilar material.
 
Starching the paper sails was not an option, because the overall look was altered..and an uneven micro wrinkled surface was also not acceptable.
Similar translucency was never achievable (Not to my liking anyway).  Vacuum forming was my best option for achieving the best results for great billows....however..they never looked natural and joints between billows never materialized with the neatness and cleanliness I  had so desired.
I have no photographic evidence....because in experimentation mode, I generally do not take images.  Not until I have found a successful...repeatable technique do I then record those efforts.
 
So my friends....it looks as if the brilliant idea of incorporating several fluttering sails as was depicted in the Glory of the Seas painting won't be part of this build.  No real tragedy.....a full set of sails is impressive enough and the technique I have developed for this model will suffice.
 
So now it's back to the shipyard(and out of the laboratory), and time to put my hands to making the lower topsail.
I will add the shroud fairleads to the starboard side(Port side is complete), and run the top sails control lines, the topsail yard downhaul and such.
 
Thanks for enduring my little charade.  I gave the impression of success....when in fact,  all I did was experiment, and waste time. 
 
Rob

I myself have found that while waiting for genius I've gotten more poop than pop...........fiberglass resin also works very well as a plaster sealer. 

Good thought, just be sure to seal the mold.

Yes, that's the one. The kit came with the long bottle-nose as a way to update the kit to a GR3 (?) if one wished to do so.
Sounds like you have some good memories of your Dad with model building.

Model as it currently sits, back to making deck guns.