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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Along the edges of each house….where the walls meet. I’m still trying to figure out the structure. Anyway….here are some updates. I’m adding the shrouds and belaying some of those lines. Rob
  2. Welcome aboard Rob. May you find hours of pleasurable reading and comradery. Rob
  3. I try to leave nothing undone. but things do happen... I would like you to research the corner venting system for Glory's houses. It is true she had louvered venting(black corners) on each of her buildings....main cabin, boys cabin, carriage house. I'm going to add them(Super detailing).....but a bit more research would be nice. I know how in-depth your searching can be and it will contribute to your drawings...if you have not already done so. Thanks man..... Rob
  4. Rob...she is looking beautiful...just beautiful. You have really proceeded nicely...clean , precise and mastered skillfully. Rob
  5. Indeed it looks daunting....and it will take time, but I have properly located the lifts in their own fairleads at the head of the top....and they will belay to their appropriate pin on the forward fife rail. The bunt lines are further aft in the lubbers hole and will find their place down along the shrouds and through their particular fairlead and then to the main rail along the gunwale. The returning yard tack lines from the mizzen will find their appropriate blocks on the mainmast and then down to their belay pins on the aft of the fife rail(these lines have yet to be installed). I installed all the control tack line blocks for the mizzen on the main mast...when I installed the spencer gaff and its gear. I needed to install all this inner gear prior to installing the stays for the mizzen. You kinda have to work through the install process and make sure you install details in their order...or you will find yourself having to work in tight quarters and you can possibly break stuff. (One...I can't see it and I can't reach it...so I break stuff) Working inward to out...after the stays are installed....THEN...I will be able to add the back stays. Currently.....I finished with the most inner subjects/details....now the main mizzen stay.....and then the main shrouds/ratlines. Everything in its order. Couple this process with time.....and there you have it. Rob
  6. I’ll leave the chicken house off while I belay lines to the main fife rail. Just easier that way. Rob
  7. Keeping lines untangle is at a premium. I worked on the main mast gaff and iron mast bar for bending its sail. Rob
  8. It is the only image that shows the large cut-out made to access her deck easily. A real violation of her integrity. Even, the only other image of her port side, of her on the beach at Endolyne doesn't show this breach. I can't wait. Rob
  9. Fantastic! This particular image is quite revealing, concerning her gunwale height and channel detailing. Rob
  10. I mounted the main mast today. Just need to let her dry fully, then I’ll rig the mizzen lower stay before I begin the shrouds. Rob
  11. Vlad…..what in the world…….? How did you do that? You do know you need those fingers……right? Rob
  12. I think this is the same pier she was at when she had her figurehead removed.....Well what's left of it.. Rich....can you see if Mike has this image in his clear collection of images?
  13. Sweet. Very nice and clean. Now the real challenge begins...Rigging. One of my favorite things about clippers. It's good you are doing your homework. I built my first CS back in 1975~76 and I didn't have the internet to help in my study.... It was the library and the plans that came in the kit, Pretty good for the earlier kits. Rob
  14. Well...... Forbes actually invented the double topsail. However, his lower topsail was also movable, but it road up and down along the topgallant mast in the doubling. Both the top and lower topsail yards were movable. It was Howes who fixed the lower topsail yard to the lower mast top cap doubling iron and hung it with an iron crane...like what you see on my Glory build. The whole notion was to eliminate the burdensome man hours required to lower and furl the giant topsail of previous rigging designs. Forbes imagined a design that split the topsail into two smaller sails and when you wanted to reduce the upper topsail, you could nullify its wind catching ability by lowering it in front of the lower topsail. This required less work and was also easier to furl, then the much larger single topsail alone. Rob
  15. Right…….I see the confusion. The difference about these two types of gin blocks is that the GR was using the Forbes designed double top sails. Glory is using the Howes double top sails. The difference is that the GR’s topsail lift’s origin was found in the cap of the main mast. Instead of a chain running through the mast down to a gin block and then it’s purchase……. The chain lift left the mast cap went to the yard block, went up to the large gin block mounted on the mast cap the down to another set of blocks and then to its purchase. The GR masts we’re so large they needed this extra blocking……..also because of the Forbes design. Just review the images and you’ll see the difference. Rob
  16. Lastly, a coat of black paint. There you go. One more down and one more to go.
  17. The gin block is used to lift the yard. It translates the purchase energy from a stationary point on one side of the ships gunwale up to the block, back down to the opposite side of the ship to a series of blocks to reduce the load of the yard , making its lift easier on the men. I will take picks of how I make the next one First, I use a strip of light cured plastic. I cut it to the proper width and thickness of the gin block.
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