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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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- 3,560 replies
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- 3,560 replies
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- 3,560 replies
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Starting to focus and add details while they still can be easily done. Adding bracing to the davits. While in port Glory stowed her davit gear…….retaining only the head double blocks. Even at sea……these items were stowed. Added the coop now and am adding lift blocks and eyebolts for the foremast. Rob
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Beautiful..... In your scale that will work well....I'm sure, but in my scale I use rope not much bigger then sewing thread. That would be like braiding spider silk. Can't wait to see you use this rope on your model. Rob
- 286 replies
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Rope making....? That's one trail I'll never go down. I want to finish my model before I completely fossilize. I have other models to build before that inevitable day. Great work on her Rob. Rob
- 286 replies
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Good job...I waited to add the foot ropes to them until after I rigged the shrouds.....but adding details to the mast while it is off the hull....IMHV....is the best practice. You can move the mast around with ease and can work freely, without endangering the finished hull and its workings. Great progress. Rob
- 481 replies
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Part of my mastery is practicality. I indeed have left off the addition of these braces to lessen the stress on the mainmast…….since there is no adequate counter force that would otherwise be applied by the main mast stays. Plus the topsail yards and the main yard sheets need their sheeves prepped in the hull. I have plenty to do till I begin the yards for the fore mast. Thanks for the great support and encouragement. Rob
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AND don't forget to use dark thread...or black for the lanyards. They are just as much part of the standing rigging as is the shroud above. Rob
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Looking good Rob...protect what you can. I know, when I have to flip Glory around...I have to pick her up....leave the small shop and turn around in the next room, and then come in and place her on the bench in the opposite direction. I have so many things that can be bumped and broken....and my bowsprit is stickn out there, ripe for breaking. However, I am so diligent in the process of *flippin*, that I take my time and make sure my appendages are all accounted for before I make any moves. Your hull is quite large...larger then I had originally thought. Well done. Rob
- 286 replies
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Thanks to everyone for the fine compliments...I appreciate it very much. One thing must be pointed out(well several)..... When preparing to rig, you must faithfully consider how much rigging you are up for. Standing rigging is a gimmy....... but running rigging can come in all shades of complexity. The minimalist rarely strays from lifts and braces. The biggest dilemma is making sure you comprehend the true complexity of line location, and belay points.. Having a bunt line descend down the mast from a skysail yard... must not in any way tangle, twist or interfere with any other of the lines demanding the same treatment....and then effortlessly find its appropriate belay pin on the rail. All , without entanglements. I quickly realized (AS I ALWAYS DO), that if I wanted to *fully* rig my Glory...I had to put in the homework and most of all.....visualize...with 3-D vision.....the clear unobstructed path for each line. I have on a number of frustrating occasions....had to un-belay and rerun a line that was clear of all other lines....but one.....hiding behind a shroud. Good thing I always check and recheck (from every angle)....lines before I glue them in place. It will not take long before the forest of lines becomes a structure in of themselves....this is why, within the body of your homework, you must make sure you use appropriate line size for the scale you are replicating. How many times have we seen an otherwise beautiful model being overpowered by over sized rigging lines....and them, of the wrong scale color! For my purposes, I generally use 3 sizes of line...one for lifts and downhauls for yards and the others two for sail control and top mast bracing. Rigging always has to be smaller then you think. No one hauls a yard purchase the size of a baseball bat......that would be a main mast shroud. I just wanted to help those, thinking, or beginning rigging on their own models. 3 things I want to leave you....1: Use the appropriate size cable for your rigging (Smaller is better). 2: Use the appropriate color, Greyish tan is best, (deadeye lanyards are NOT running rigging...stop using tan cord) 3: Rig as much as you are comfortable with(but if you put that much effort into your hull build...why stop there, challenge yourself, you'll be a better modeler because of it). Rob
- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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(and 2 more)
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- 3,560 replies
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- clipper
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- 3,560 replies
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There is, but if you reeve from the knot in the right hole or from the left hole….you can induce a twist that is either counter or equal to the twist of the rope/string. Rob
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Model Ship World posted on their Facebook page a picture of my Glory on the work bench…….pointing out how all of us have experienced a messy building bench. I was honored, at the same time, realizing my work area is a mess…….worthy of pointing out. Rob
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Great job Rich…….I’m gonna use the name / scroll and redo mine, I think. Super work. Rob
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