GemmaJF

Thanks for looking in.   So far, so good on planking.
 
 
 
This Deathstar II, Rev2.   I think.  Ah.. just call it Deathstar III.  I've got one pesky setting that won't stay in place on a mirror adjustment.  Considering my options....  Locktite, epoxy, or weld it.   
 
 
Jason, 
 
Here's a couple of screen shots that might help.
 
The first is complete drawing (as of today) with all the layers of which there are 10.  I started with a scanned image of the deck, then added reference lines (red and blue).  Then each part of the deck got it's own layer so I could lock it and turn it on or off as needed.
 
The red tick marks off the vertical lines is where the planks cross the beams (actual measurements).  I started in the center and worked both ways by copy/pasting the original set of marks and then adjusting the size to fit the space (scaled them).  So far, so good.  It seems to be working.    This is a computer variation of the planking fan that Chuck uses in his planking methods.
 

 
 
This shot is of the cutting layers for the plankings....  
 

 
Any questions, feel free to ask.

Lower band of planking. 1st plank (Garboard is 3/16" aft tapered to 1/8" forward). It is beveled to seat into the rabbit created by the side pieces on the former (keel). It is then followed by 8 strakes of 1/8" x 1/16".
 
 

First band of planking below wale on Port side (12 x 1/8" x 1/16")
 
 

Oops! I stand corrected; I goofed. I plead wooly-headedness due to 'flu! The power of 8 it is. I didn't have enough brainpower today....

Hi Chris, I will answer you privatly
 
Hi GemmaJF,
 
1/24= big and even bigger when you see it for the first time.

Scratch model of the sloop Providence  is coming along. Thanks to a member here that loaned me with the plans of the Virginia Armed sloop, . I'm using it as a rigging guide.
 
Add to Post
 
In the image is a jig I made to rig up the top mast shrouds. A similar one was made for the main mast( see above post ). I found it easier to tie in the rat lines off the actual model.(fat thumbs get in the way )
 
Add to Post
 
Add to Post
 
In the other images( with sails showing) the  main shrouds are in place on the mast. but the dead eyes lanyards not reeved. This allows me to place the entire shrouds P&S out of the way to access the various lines of the running rigging to be belayed to their pins near the mast and the bulwarks etc. Near the finish of the running rigging the deadeyes will be rigged. Having the sails hoisted up for me needed a different approach to rig the model as they get in the way otherwise.
 
Notice in the images the yards are not braced. When finished they will braced like the sloop is on a close reach and the display will have the vessel healed on the port tack.
 
The top sail is just in place. It will be lifted off to enable me to place the topmast shrouds on the top mast as well as the jib stay. 
 
BTW I did find some (to me) errors in the V.A. Sloop plans.Like the orientation of the dead eyes ( sheet 5 middle deadeye holes reversed) and on sheet 4 showing possible rig with sail. plan shows the bunt line on the back of the sail and the clew line in the front. To me it should be the other way around.
 
SOS

Ahoy all Modelers,
 

 
Coming along on the model. and got the swivel guns mounted on the poop deck. Also an officer was piped aboard this week to help supervise the further construction. I got a different scheme for mounting the gun port lids that might be unorthodox. If it works Ill post it here. Still to go some kind of binnacle , channels and deadeyes ( awaiting the blackening agent).
Notice the cable going to a holes in the fwd. grating and below to the cable locker.
 
Thanks for the help in various questions I posted in other threads.
 
S.O.S.
 
 

]Lower deck guns rigged and run out .. ready for the first broad side... well ...almost. Got all of the poop deck to do as well as its fittings  rails and swivel guns. etc. (  deck not glued down in the image") For now I'd like to know just what sort of binnacle was typical for a 18th century ship during the American revolution. The plans I have show a deck box and I assume engine controls probably a compass etc . Also where the ships bell might be.
 
My big question is a rigging plan. My plans show only standing rigging and main peak & throat  blocks  halyards etc.with no clue as to just where they might go. So my question is any one here knowledgeable where all the running rigging should go and belay to?  
 
 
 
Thanks
 
S.O..S

Well the Providence is moving along. For me the rigging of the cannons was challenging but  I had to install at least 4 of them before the poop deck work was to proceed as the beams and deck would make access to those 4 cannons difficult. ( for me at least) I first tried to rig up the tackles separately, attach them to the cannon and then move the cannon into place tackle and all. That didn't work.as there was a lot to manage all at the same time So I next  stropped the block with becket & line to the bulkhead  by drilling a small hole that matched the stropped block in the bulkhead and just glue in the block, strop and line. Same goes for the  single block on the gun carriage Then I glued the gun carriage in place, let the glue dry. With tweezers, two needle threaders I rigged up the tackles as depicted in the photo. The coils are separate and all glued down. I still have to install the  gun barrels and iron work to hold down the trunnions.
 
The in place deck beams are not complete as there are two extensions P&S from the existing beams. All other deck work shown are removable for now to give more space for installing the other 6 cannons and tackles..
 
I gave up the idea of furnishing the main cabin as peering into it would be hopeless  with the eventual  poop deck, case would permit. I'll let the imagination of the viewer supply what John.Paul Jones and officers had for comfort. maybe even a wench or two. After all guys are guys.  Thanks for viewing.
 
S.O.S

Here is the hull painted above the waterline. I think the French blue came out pretty nice. I did not use a waterline jig. Bluejacket provides one, if you prefer, but I find them too cumbersome. I took measurements from the plans and then marked the hull at intervals.

Here is the hull after initial sanding. Bulwarks are fitting in nicely.

Here is my update on fitting the stern post. This kit is a step up from the entry level solid hull kits, and the lugs required some work to remove. In reading through different posts in MSW, I gather there are those that find solid hull kits more difficult than plank on bulkhead. It is certainly an art, and not as precise. I recommend with this kit to use the actual stern post as well as the stern template. As you can see in the photos, the template fit looks pretty close, but I over sanded the aft end at the keel. This required me to cut out a "prosthesis" out of scrap wood and fit it in the gap. I think I can fill it in with bondo or spackle and be okay. Does anyone have a good recommendation on a good gap filler? Bluejacket recommends either above and recommends against wood filler.

Attached are photos of the initial carving on the hull. This required chisels and a saw prior to sanding. This has been about four hours over two days. Templates are good, and it is coming nicely with just sanding at this point.

hahahahaha, Thanks Gemma, problem is, then I would be long on kits and short on time.
 
mike

WOW, I didn't post this thread with the intentions of looking for a buyer, but mainly to get an idea of how I plan to proceed with the build. But I have had 3 offers within the last few hours, some wants it with everything, one wants it with just drive train and one wants it with a gas engine in it. Like a friend told me once, "just build it and they will come" was spot on.
 
 
mike 

Thanks Gemma, I have all the equipment needed to make it operational. But I was just trying to feel out the demographic to see which way they would prefer to buy it if given the opportunity and had a need for it. To me it's kind of like building a house and you wind up over building for that particular market or location. You end up cutting down the amount of folks who would be interested in the house forcing it to sit on the market for a long time. 
 
This has happened to me a few times when building radio control planes.

Interesting. However, gun ports were never placed one above the other on different decks.

マストの製作を開始しました。
I started the production of the mast.

マストの仮組です。
マストの一時的なグループ

過去の、製作工程です。It is a past production process.
モデルはコレ－ル社　SM４です。
The model is corel company sm4. It is an old kit.

Hi all
 
A trick/ technique that I use is to trace the 'false deck' onto paper and then draw up planks and planking pattern on it before beginning. Experiment by drawing up a shift pattern, say 4 or 5. If you are not happy with how it looks, flip over and redraw on the other side. You can then track/ check off on this pattern as you plank your deck. The image below is of the deck of my current build (HMS Bounty). Note that I have written the plank pattern near the bow and ticked off each plank as it is fitted. This technique may not be for everyone, but it helps me
 

base for winch and the fish boxes complete next I will turn my attention to the trawl doors

It took a longer time to finish the construction of the deadwood.





 

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Thank you.
Work is still much to do. If I have health, and continuing to work with thread is bound to be.