king derelict

She looks very good. A great result from a less than average kit. Congratulations

Alan

Looks very nice

A beautiful model; the finish is great and the photography is superb. The shots with teh reflections are especially nice.

Alan

Yesterday was another day that tries the patience of men. I was adding some highlights to the tunic of the Yellow Boy and the glue (Gorilla Glue) I used to secure the base to the pill container being used as a handle cracked away and the figure dropped. It landed hard, the base separated and the head fell off again. I decided to try 15 minute epoxy to resecure everything and had just placed the head back and thought it was settled when it fell off AGIN. Only this time it landed smack in the little tray of mixed epoxy and got a liberal coat. I gave it a liberal spray of alcohol which I had handy and wiped it off as best I could. Of course most of the paint came off too.

I switched to five minute epoxy and tried again and this time I think I got a good bond. Activity was suspended for the day to reconsider and repair the shower.

I initially thought of going back and air brushing the black and white undercoats but I suspect I wasn't able to get all the epoxy off and if so then over spraying it was going to obscure details.

I decided to use white primer hand brushed where needed and after it was dry, this morning, I started repainting. I may have lost some of the pre-shading on the turban but I think its good enough to carry on. I can try using different shades to deepen the folds. I see a couple of spots on the face which may need attention too then back to qorking on the details

I got ambitious and started adding the basic paint to Nabopolassar. In some ways it might be a simpler figure to work on. Its a great sculpt regardless.. The tan colour is an undercoat for the gold decorations that will follow - at least that's the idea.

Thanks for looking in and for the likes and comments

Alan

On 5/19/2024 at 7:17 PM, Roger Pellett said:

I haven’t painted any 54mm for over a year but recently became interested in doing so between work on my current ship modeling project.  Like the kit ship my figure stash has too many figures representing different interests when I bought them.  My first step is to finish my collection of American Civil War figures starting with the last of several mounted Union Cavalry Men.  My objective is to improve my technique before moving onto more difficult subjects. I have outfitted myself with a wet palette, mechanical paint mixer, and fingernail striping brushes should arrive soon.

 

My first subject is the Cavalry horse.  I became interested in trying the technique of “pre-shading” via posts on building a Titanic model here on MSW.  The idea seems to shade selected primed areas with a dark color and then paint over with tin coats of a lighter color.  The horse has large enough areas to allow airbrushing.  Using it on figures might not work.

 

Roger

I will be very interested to see how the shading works out on a horse. I have a Historex one in the pile which I bought to finally satisfy an early teenage want. As I remember back in the late sixties Historex recommended using oils.

Alan

On 5/19/2024 at 5:37 PM, mtaylor said:

Hmm.. that hand stabiliser looks like an interesting tool.  How big is it and how is it used?  I've familiar with the old sign painters method using a long stick of wood but not sure how something that small would work.

Mark

I think its the same sort of thing. I think it will only be useful for working over a small area but that's really what I want it for. It certainly firms up my uncertain brush when it comes to painting details.

This is the guide that was inside the box

Alan

On 5/19/2024 at 4:31 PM, Egilman said:

Only cause you haven't tried yet brother...

 

Doing them as small as you have been doing should make the larger ones easier I imagine... Anyway I would have a lot of confidence in your ability to paint any figure at this point...

Exactly; its a bigger canvas to showcase your skills

Alan

On 5/19/2024 at 3:58 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Looking good  Alan,   I do washes  over my  28mm   figures  but how well  I would  get  on  doing that  at this  scale  - I dont know,  you  could  try  a  very  slightly darker  shade  of Yellow  and  paint  the  shadows,  then  a  slightly  lighter shade of Yellow  and  dry brush  the  highlights  and  raised  areas,   I haven't actually  successfully  painted  any larger  scale  figures.

 

OC.

Thank you OC, I think your suggestion is better than just using brown or black washes. I watched a couple of videos which recommended the same technique

Alan

Run a layer of paper soaked in dilute white glue over the foam and any cracks will be lost beneath it. I tend to think of the foam layer as the base and refine it with paper towel etc 

alan

On 5/19/2024 at 3:50 PM, Javlin said:

You know Alan something I read the other day about the eyelid always covers half the eye........I have always done figures as Bug Eyes then something to keep in mind...you may already know this?Keep up the good work.

Thanks Jav. That is a good tip. I have seen some great painted figures with pop eyes and it turns them into cartoon figures. I would rather leave the eyes if I can't get it right. I'm still working up the courage to attempt the pupils

Alan

12 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

  I will  see  what they  say  when they  are  open again  (China Time)   They  initially  responded  straight away  when I messaged them  -  full  of apologies   saying they would  send a  replacement  but knowing  that would also arrive damaged  - I told them in no uncertain  terms  that  I did not want a  replacement   but I wanted a  Full Refund  as  I completely  blamed them for  not  packaging it  in bubble wrap  or similar,  they went quiet on me after  that.

 

I hope that works out for you OC. It does seem a lottery buying from China via eBay. I'm in the same situation. I've generally been impressed with DSPIAE modelling tools and ordered their magnetic paint stirrer. It sounded like an interesting idea. You drop a small steel rod in the paint bottle and a motor on teh base spins the rod round extremely fast. Mine arrived and I gave it a try. It wouldn't even rotate the rod in the paint. Thinking the paint might be too thick I tried it with water and got a similar result. So far communication has been great and they apparently have a replacement on the way. We shall see. I should have listened to @Egilman about paint stirrers.😄

Alan

40 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Afternoon all,   my  styrene  base has   turned up  from China  - I will  let the  photos  speak for them selves  -  to say I am  not amused   is  putting it  mildly   - 

 

OC.

I hope a replacement or refund is on its way. Thats not acceptable at all

Alan

A quiet Sunday morning and a bit more progress. I completed the turban, started the belts and cummerbund. I got brave and added the whites of the eye which I guess commits me to doing the pupils. Some touching up to do with the belts but I am happy with the face. I added a black wash to the beard and I like it.

I need to decide on the next step. The guide picture shows a lot of fine detail patterns on the sash and the turban. Thin stripes of red and brown on the yellow. I'm inclining to just going with some broad stripes seeing as this is my first figure and I want to end up with something I feel okay with rather than a shameful mess. I suspect the guy that painted the figure for the guide might have done a few other figures before attempting that one

I'm also looking for a bit of advice. I am wondering whether to try to use a wash to bring out the details and whether to spray a clear coat onto the figure before attempting the wash. Any thoughts or advice?

I bought this rather odd-looking device after browsing the DSPIAE range. Its a hand stabiliser to try to control motion when painting detail or using tweezers on small parts. I'm still adapting to working with it and it seems very helpful. I will definitely be using it when I get brave enough to try to paint the pupils.

Thanks you all for looking in and for the encouraging comments and suggestions

Alan

13 hours ago, CDW said:

You are really getting the hang of the figure painting, Alan. Looks great!

Thank you Craig. Its a big learning experience but its hugely enjoyable - and the finished product doesn't take up much room. But they are quicbker to complete so maybe they end up taking the same space as a complicated ship model.

Alan

On 5/16/2024 at 9:07 PM, Jack12477 said:

Looking good Alan ! 👍 

Thank you Jack. A lot of learning ahead

alan

On 5/16/2024 at 7:55 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Very nice work Alan - quite a colourful chap.

 

OC.

Thank you OC. Let’s see how I do on the details! As I understand it Skinners Horse are the only British Army unit to have worn yellow. Very distinctive. I’ve just found that Art Girona has a lot of 19 th century Indian army subjects in their 70 mm range. That could solve birthday presents for a while (or frighten the credit card)

alan

On 5/15/2024 at 8:59 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Alan  I  have used  the  LifeColour  Acrylic  range   for  my  HMS Warspite   -  they  come   in matched  colour  ranges  and  are  really  good  on plastic,  before  I had  an Airbrush  I even  brush  painted  them  and got very good results.

 

OC.

Thanks OC. I bought the Life Colour RN Eastern Approaches set which has all three colors I need. Great suggestion.

alan

I managed to get a bit of time yesterday and today and got out the colours. About five coats of yellow on the tunic and I am not sure if its too much. I'm feeling my way with the glaze technique. Not too terrible so far. The first coat on the red parts of the turban and some black details.

I'm still learning how to use the wet palette so this is all a bit learning experience.

The paints are Vallejo Model paints and the BBs really make a difference to mixing them. The face and hands are using Mig Ammo flesh tones which I think are very nice. He may be a bit dark but I will see how he looks with the beard filled in. 

I'm a bit leery of the clamps after the earlier problem so I think I will glue him to a temporary base of some sort for the remainder of the work

Thanks for looking in and all teh helpful comments and suggestions

Alan

Those are going to really add to the battlefield.

Alan

The B-25 cockpit looks terrific. Great work. That ZM kit looks superb and reading the blog shows it to be a fantastic build. I look forward to seeing you work on it. Your kit choices are excellent.

Alan

As a postscript to the above I hauled out my stock of thinners and experimented. Reading around the internet a lot of people were claiming great results from Mr Color leveling thinners with AK paint. Mind you there were also people claiming great things about using Tamika acrylic thinner which at least for me is a guaranteed way to block the airbrush solid. 
I just learned that Mr Color leveling thinner causes the AK paint to congeal. Tamika lacquer thinner does the same.

As a last shot I tried Mig Ammo acrylic thinner and it thinned nicely. 
Yet curiously MiG Ammo acrylics thin with Tamiya acrylic thinners too. 
 

so it looks like I can avoid using water as a thinner 

Onwards 

Alan

This is hardly a progress report today.

I sprayed the relevant sections of Zinnia with the AK MS3 paint and found it was hardly distinguishable from the light grey already in place and nothing like the colour chip I have for MS3. I mixed up a blend of IJN grey / green and dark green from Tamiya and used that. I liked the result a lot better so went ahead and added the dark grey.

Today, a day later, I stripped the masking and found that the light grey had bled all over the red lower hull and over the dark grey deck. The dark grey had bled all over the grey / green and the light green. Its far too extensive to touch up.

I haven't had anything as bad as this before. 

The grey green didn't seep anywhere. i think the problem was the AK acrylics which are water based and had to be diluted with water. They sprayed on very wet and I think that resulted in the seeping. The grey / green is Tamiya which I think has an alcohol base and dried fast.

Sorry no pictures I was too disgusted. Its going to need to be stripped down and redone. I need to see if I can use something other than water with the AK paints - or dump them and use all Tamiya ones.

Another day, another lesson learnt

Alan

Today was the day when the modelling gods decided I needed a good poking. 

I soaked the paper for the wet palette and soaked the sponge. Added BBs to the paint and got a good consistency. New brushes at hand and ready to go.

I picked up the daffadar in the universal clamp and had a brushful of yellow paint poised and, to my horror, the figure fell out of the clamp. I guess I didn't clamp the base tight enough.

The day being what it was the daffadar landed on the Nabopolassar figure which was lurking on the bench. Both heads detached and the soldiers base fell off. 

No obvious damage and the pieces were glued back in place but that shut down any painting plans for the morning. I turned my attention to removing the masking from my Flower Corvette and found that paint had seeped through the masks EVERYWHERE. I've never had a result as bad as this.

Maybe stuffing teddies isn't a bad idea after all.

Alan

A spectacular result. One of the very best I have seen. I think the water running down the side of the ship looks impressively realistic. I may go and take up knitting.

Alan

The engine looks great

Alan