Fernando E

A good start and careful preparation! A link to a nicely build model as another reference:
https://collection.maas.museum/object/238338
 
There is also a picture of the stern gallery, where you can see all windows and their arrangement.

Thanks Keith, I think they will help give a smoother curve to the planks.
 
Hello All,
I have finished planking the fore bulkhead and the aft cabin bulkhead, I also added the planks to the inside of the transom.
        
The doorway and window still need some work to be done to them before the window and door are fitted.
 
I have also decided to add some extra bow filler blocks in between bulkheads 1 and 2 and bulkheads 2 and 3. 
       
These were cut from 3mm ply sheet and some 8mm pine board, they were roughly shaped and glued into position.
        
        
I have also made some filler blocks for the stern, these will fill the last three gaps in between the stern bulkheads.
        
These were made from a combination of ply and pine board, they were also carved roughly to shape and glued into place.
        
          
           
When all of these are dry the final bow pieces will be glued on. I know this is probably a bit of overkill but I think once all faired in it will give me a nice smooth surface to lay the planks on.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
All comments welcome.
 
 

Yes it is starting to look like something resembling a ship!
 
Thank you Scott.
Yes it does, lucky it isn't or she would be on the bottom in the state she is in.
 
Yes, I plan to use some of the ply strips that were in the slots on the bulkheads and false keel and position them about halfway between the bottom of the slot for the mast and the deck and maybe have some at the bottom of the slot to form a 'step' for the mast.
Does the Endeavour have the mast holes cut into the deck so that you can use them for a guide to drill your blocks?
 
Hello All,
I have shaped the bow filler blocks roughly to the shape I want them with a chisel, rasp, smooth file an sandpaper. 
            
              
                
As can be seen by the pencil lines on the last two photos they are still a bit oversize but I will leave them like that until they are glued to the model and then fair them into the bulkhead. LIke they say it is easier to take material off than to add it on!
The instructions don't call for bulkhead 19, which sits in between bulkheads 3 and 4 at the front of the main deck, to be planked at all, probably because the windlass sits in front of it and they think it won't be noticed but I think parts of it will be seen so I am going to plank it with 0.5mm sapele strips. 
            
             
This is much easier to do off the ship. It will be sanded and painted red ochre when finished.
For part 19 which is the aft cabin bulkhead the instructions call for it to be lined with 0.5mm mahogany and 2 doors, which are 2mm thick, to be painted black and glued to the bulkhead. I think this would not look very nice at all so I have decided to fit one door recessed into the port side of the bulkhead and cut a window into the starboard side, both just off the centre line as access ladders to the quarter deck will be fitted next to the port and starboard bulwarks and there a cabins on either side under the quarter deck.
            
            
The doorway and window was marked out and holes drilled so that the waste could be cut out and then the edges were cleaned up with a file.
            
              
This bulkhead will also be planked with 0.5mm sapele and painted.
Thanks for looking and the likes
All comments welcome.
 

Thanks Cabbie, I haven't settled on what I'm going to use yet but I have ordered a bottle of Micro Klear and I will see how that works when it turns up.
 
Thanks Scott, I am fairly happy with them.
 
Hello All,
The main 14 bulkheads have all been glued to the false keel.
         
          
           
There are two half bulkheads, parts 18 and 19 which fit at either end of the main deck still to be fitted but they need some work done to them before they are glued on.
The kit supplied 4 bow filler pieces which are to be glued to bulkhead one, one into the slot in the bulkhead and the other to the false keel.
           
           
Because of the shape of the bow I don't think there will be enough support to give the planks a nice smooth curve around the bow so I am not going to use these parts and I will shape my own bow filler blocks from 19mm pine.
            
Thanks for looking and the likes
All comments welcome.
 
 

Thanks for the suggestion Keith, I did consider using acetate but I want to keep the transom thickness as close to 4mm as I can, which it will be when these parts are glued together.
Thanks for that Scott I looked it up and did find it at BNA models so will order some when I think of what other supplies I want from them to make the postage worthwhile. 
Meanwhile I did a little experiment with white glue ( which dries clear) and two part epoxy on a piece of scrap.
        
May be a bit hard to see in the photo but the 2 part epoxy is the clearest however it is a bit harder to smooth out and get rid of the air bubbles. Anyway something to think about as there is no rush.
The horizontal frames have been fitted to the window frames and I am fairly happy with how they turned out.
         
          
           
The frames and the inside edges of the frames have been painted white. The transom has also been assembled.
           
            
The transom has also been painted duck egg blue where the window openings are located.
            
I think it will look OK when the transom is completed.
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
        

Hello All,
The rest of the stern windows were cut out and the part cut from the ply sheet.
      
       
The part was reduced in thickness from 2mm to 1mm by carefully shaving off 1 layer of ply and then sanding it to size. The vertical frames for the windows were then fitted.
        
These are made from 0.87mm styrene rod.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
Comments always welcome.
 

Yeah your right Keith, I have been one of those who jumped in to early, just to keen to get started but found out the hard way later on!
Hello All,
Two more bulkheads have been glued to the false keel.
      
While waiting for the glue to dry I turned my attention to the transom area this is made up of 6 parts, 2 bulkheads and 4 supporting pieces which give shape for the counter planks to sit on.
      
2 of the supports fit into slots in both parts but the outer ones just sit flush onto the face of the bulkheads so they were drilled and doweled with 0.75mm brass nails as this area has to be faired into the deck and other stern bulkheads and I did not want them separating when the filing and sanding starts.
The instructions call for the transom to be planked with 0.5mm mahogany and supplied nameplate to be affixed to it with a piece of decorative timber around the top.
      
Which looks OK but after doing some research and looking at a couple of paintings of the ship I am fairly sure that it had deadlights (stern windows) and I have decided to fit them, my first thought was to cut them straight into part 16 but the two slots for the support pieces would interfere with at least 2 of the windows so I marked the shape of part 16 onto a piece of 2mm ply and drew on where the windows would go making sure they were below the line of the quarter deck.
       
        
The windows are 6mm wide and 8mm high, once they and the part are cut out I will reduce the thickness of the ply to 1mm and the thickness of part 16 to 2.5mm so that when they are glued together along with the inner planking it will give an overall width of 4mm (the original thickness of part 16).
Thanks for looking and the likes
All comments welcome.
 
 

Thanks Keith and welcome.
The keel, stempost and sternpost were cut from the ply sheet, I left the tabs connecting them together as it made it easier to clamp the whole assembly to the false keel while the dowel and mounting holes were drilled.
      
       
       
Once that was done the support blocks for the mounts were glued on.
        
They were given a slight chamfer so as not to interfere with the lower planks. 
As mentioned before some of the slots in the false keel and bulkheads needed to be filed out so that the bulkheads could sit square with the false keel without putting any strain on it.
         
This was done and the ones that need a shim to allow them to sit level with the top of the false keel was also completed.
         
Then the first two bulkheads were glued on. I am gluing the bulkheads starting at the bow and the stern and working towards the centre because of the small gaps between them in these areas so that I can clamp blocks to the bulkhead and keel to keep them square.
          
            
Thanks for looking and the likes.
All comments welcome.
 

The instructions come in the form of a large 74 sheet booklet which include the rigging instructions and mast and yard dimensions. 
           
There are photos of the building stages accompanied by a brief description of the step.
           
There is a parts list and a drawing of the laser cut parts, showing their number in the front of the book.
            
There are some fold out sheets in the book which show the locations of deck fittings ect. but these are not to scale and there are no 1:1 scale plans supplied. Some dimensions are supplied in the description at certain stages of the build but not all the mast and yard dimensions are next to their drawings but the drawings are not to scale but at what distance a blocks are spaced on a yard for example is not so some educated guessing will be required.
            
              
The main downfall of this kit is the rigging cord which I did not realise before I purchased it that while being of good quality only three sizes are supplied, 1mm black cord for all of the standing rigging, 0.5mm tan cord for all of the running rigging and 0.25mm tan cord for the ratlines. I have since purchased some extra rigging thread in various sizes in both tan and black so that the rigging can be more authentically presented in my humble opinion.
              
Oh and some extra belaying pins too.
More to come soon
Thanks for looking.
All comments welcome.
 

Hello All,
With the Pickle nearly complete and just waiting in between for coats of varnish to dry I have made a start on the Supply. 
All of the bulkheads were numbered and their slots on the false keel were also numbered, they were then cut from the 4mm boards and dry fitted together. Some of them will need shims fitted into the slots so that they are level with the top edge of the false keel while most of them will need their slots squared, both on the bulkhead and the false keel as they have been cut on a slight angle.
       
        
          
All of the bulkheads are a nice snug fit on the keel.
Before any bulkheads are glued to keel there are a few things that I want do to it.
1. Mark and sand a bearding line.
2. Drill two holes through the keel and into the false keel for pedestal mounts between bulkheads 4 and 5 and bulkheads 9 and 10. I was planning on 3mm holes for the mounts but seeing as the false keel is only 4mm thick I have opted for 2mm holes for now.
3. Drill 1mm holes for dowels through the keel, stern post and stem post and into the false keel.
4. Glue support blocks to the false keel where the pedestal mounts are.
So the first job was to mark up the bearding line, a template was made from card of the area around the last 3 bulkheads and using this I marked the line on both sides of the false keel.
         
           
And then carefully sanded the excess material away on a slight taper so that the rear edge of the false keel was 2mm thick. The first planking will also have to be sanded back in this area as it is 2mm thick and the stempost is only 4mm thick.
           
            
Thanks for looking and the likes.
All comments welcome.

Scratch builder for a long time.....various models from rc planes to boats.....as all my models are working, they are not pristine but fully functional.....my next project is a 1:30th  Golden Hind ......marinated....looking for other scratchbuilder who have installed a pair of torks in the bilge that is wet......the idea is basically a tunnel hull....anyhow food for thought......this probably horrify the purists......
 
Regards



golden_hindSm (3).pdf

Going to try to post a couple of pics of my Cuty sark, fingers crossed

Hi Everyone. What a great site, full of fantastic builds and info, I am at the moment attempting the Cutty Sark, with some success but with some mistakes but learned a lot. I do want to build the Victory however I have decided to start small with a bow section from Mantua. when the kit comes I will be let you all know and post some pic hopefully.
Thanks everybody for giving me the inspiration with your fantastic models, just hope I can come somewhere near to your standards
Kind Regards to you all "OldMart" Martin from UK.

Planking has been an issue with me...it’s my first ship and I’m learning.  Thanks to advice from the shipmates and some deeply buried articles on this site I’ve decided to get rid of the “planking tool” and create an easy jig.   I pulled all the planks and started again... my OCD stepped up and wouldn’t let me proceed😂 

 

A brief update on where I'm at. It has been slow progress to date as work and family commitments have been keeping me away from the shipyard.
 
I've started on the ratlines and will send photos as soon as I have made progress on them. In the meantime the standing rigging is almost complete.
 

Cheers..........Fernando 

Hello dear friends,
and thank you very much for your comments and likes. I am pleased, you enjoyed pics from the progress.
I use mainly water-based - dispersion glue, in our country known as "Herkules" :
https://www.google.com/search?q=lepidlo+herkules&sxsrf=ALeKk02EIjI_jrGWdKcG_WO5JPyXDsvNtg:1585674617926&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=JlezZe3F3Bel4M%3A%2C0luYouwhWcn-EM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRDKInHGaIkIlgLbCZdDJkMEL_y9w&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwibsNKimsXoAhXSoVwKHYIWAH0Q9QEwAXoECAoQEA
 
or Ethyl Cyanoacrylate super glue as well.:
https://www.mpmshop.cz/bolt-medium
 
The ropes are sometimes shaped and "glued" even with a matt clear varnish.
 
I tried to create realistic flag, so I spent quite much time to look for best technology, how to do. Finally I used clear varnish (Tamiya TS-80) and during drying it was shaped exactly as I needed. The flag then remains relatively stiff and does not change its shape.
 
 
Thank you for your help and great inspiration. I do appreciate your kind words, they mean a lot for me. 
 
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I know it will be really challenging to complete this model with realistic rigging, but as two friends have written to me, it is important to find a way to proceed with the rigging, and to take the model to completion.
Some years ago I faced a similar challenge when I was building Sovereign of the Seas, and although it was really hard, it was worth the effort. 
Yesterday, I took several pictures of both ships together. I wish I would complete the Royal Katherine as successful as the Sovereign of the Seas model.
 

 
So, it is time to study and look for the right solutions.
 
 
 
 
 

Hello everyone, since I've finally started posting vs. browsing I thought I'd introduce myself.  I've been a scale aircraft modeler for over 20 years and have found that the research and learning journey is almost as rewarding as the build itself.  My interest in aircraft stems from a fascination with flight coupled with 23 years in the Air Force and Air National Guard.  However, a fascination with ships is close behind.  It's the history, people involved at the time, and how the machines I model helped change the world for good or bad that really drives my interest.  I guess my biggest flaw when it comes to modeling is a quest for accuracy and perfection in the build.  I'll never achieve perfection and only be as accurate as the research material available but I will sure keep trying.  For instance, the MS Niagara was my first attempt at a ship.  It would be a beautiful model to display, but after finding out it doesn't really represent the real ship, I have absolutely no interest in completing it.  The beautiful work that I see on this site is inspirational and I'm learning a lot.  Please be prepared for lots of stupid questions.

All pins are now equiped with coils..... So I can move to cleats. 

And few overview pictures. 

Hello dear friends, 
I am honoured reading your comments and responses to my work. I do appreciate them a lot. Thank you all very much. 
Well, I would like to continue and finish this model in maximum historical accuracy,  but I am not sure if I manage it. The rigging is quite complicated and I was not succesful to find plenty of details in available books. Although I have commercial plan of this ship, there are a lot of mistakes and nonsense, which I cannot apply to my model in any case. I do not want to give up although it would be possible to leave the model without rigging and finish the build even at this stage.
Please, if you have any drawings or documents suitable for English ships from the second half of the 17th century, especially the rigging, please share them here. It can help not only me but also other people interested in realistic design of such ships. I will be very grateful for that.
 
 
Yesterday I added remaining ropes to gunport lids on the upper deck and quarterdeck; the ropes in the middle/open section of the upper deck will be tied later.
 

And finally I have added required ropes - the spans on gunports lids on lower and middle deck. The upper ones will be completed later.
 

 
 
 
 

Making gunport lids from card and foils + brass rings.....
 

Hello dear friends,
I am very grateful for your support and kind words, thank you all very much. And thank also for all your "likes". I appreciate them a lot.
Well, sculpting is my favourite hobby as well, I love creating beautiful things and bringing pleasure to other people who can watch my work. I am not sure if I would enjoy making sculptures for manufacturers and see how they make coppies..... The uniqueness of the original is very valuable to me.
 
Few days ago I finished remaining ordnance for the Royal Catherine. The barrels are made of card, but for carriages I used wood - it was much less laborious than paper and I saved a lot of time. The cannons are still without rigging and tackles, will be added later.
 
So, have a great time and enjoy the pics from progress.....
 
Here is first piece -  demi-culverin for the main deck - in comparison with the biggest gun from RK - "cannon-of-seven" from the lower deck:

Few more coils added. It goes slowly but looks ok to me. 

Welcome! Flew into Sydney last Friday from Auckland, just in time, today I would be in isolation for 14 days. Hope you all stay well and get through this!!