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turangi

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suburban Chicago
  • Interests
    Fly tying and Trout fishing in my Nirvana, New Zealand.

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  1. Another brief update. In my previous post I had a photo of the cheek blocks on the mainsail boom. The directions suggested a couple of holes could be drilled in them as a simulation. It didn’t look right so I made some proper blocks. I had some Aluminum tubing left over from another model so I glued a bit of Bamboo skewer in the center to allow it to be pinned in place. I used a wee file to make a groove around the outside, cut it in a miter box with a razor saw and pinned it in place. I am much happier with the result!
  2. I use both and now prefer scalpels. I also occasionally use single edge razor blades as they are thinner with a less severe bevel and make square edged cuts easier in some materials.
  3. Warning! Do not use the pictures below as a guide for installing the parts shown at the main boom jaws! I misread the plans and the parts belong on the jaws of the upper boom! I only leave them up as perhaps they will help another builder to check the plans twice and build only once. I have fixed the problem and the bottom photo shows what the main boom jaw area should look like. Time for a long overdue update. With the decent weather I have been trying to catchup with outdoor chores. The weather turned rather too warm and humid for my taste so I did some work on the boom for the mainsail. There is a rather surprising amount of fabrication and installation of parts to be done on what would seem to be a rather simple affair. I won't bore you with details but will post some photos, still a fair amount of touch-up etc. to be done. If you have any questions feel free to post them or contact me.
  4. The other way is to press the home button three times rapidly and the magnifier will come up.
  5. Your model is looking great! When I built my ECB kit I started with the garboard strake on the starboard side but on the port side started the planking above the garboard according to the frame lines and worked my way down to it and found it much easier to shape and fit the garboard then as the upper planks are less complex in terms of twisting etc.. I twisted and shaped the garboard to approximate shape and incrementally trimmed it to a proper fit. Both sides turned out completely to my satisfaction. It was much easier to shape and trim the garboard to fit the existing space. Both sides were done according to plans.
  6. Great job on the windless! I used 5 minute epoxy to attach the whelps, gave me a bit more working time. As far as the handles I made mine based upon a photo of the ECB windless, may not be the original configuration but worked for me. Post #50 and 56. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25110-emma-c-berry-by-turangi-model-shipways-132/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-815288
  7. Bill, I seem to learn more from my mistakes than successes!
  8. Very nice! I'll bet you learned a lot.
  9. I normally seal the wood with a dilute oi based varnish or shellac then sand smooth. It prevents raised grain especially if you are finishing using water based paint or water based clear finish.
  10. Time for a bit of an update. I have been working on the various rigging points, lines etc.. Neither the mast or bowsprit are permanently attached yet but fitted for a trial run. I thought it best to complete as much of the rigging work as possible beforehand as it is easier off boat. I had read of the difficulty of serving the chain going to the bowsprit and use of shrink tubing or other methods so I tried a different approach and applied 5 minute epoxy to the appropriate area of the chain to achieve a smooth surface, let it harden and then served it, worked to my satisfaction. The shrouds were a challenge as they called for serving full length, I gave it a go with little success so decided to just leave them bare which I am sure I will regret. The plans called for some small bullseyes for the bowsprit chain assembly and said to just drill out the center of a deadeye to create a single hole, no go. What I did was carve out the center between the hole with a scalpel to create a divot and then drilled them out, worked a champ. My next step will be to build a stable base for the model and proceed with the permanent rigging A few lousy pictures:
  11. Your model is looking wonderful! Have you considered leaving part of the cabin roof off in order to see the interior details?
  12. As promised my cobbled together apparatus for creating fully served lines called for in the plans. My first lesson is that I need to clean my workspace, ignore the clutter. I first inserted a barbless fly hook in my rotary fly tying vice. I next spliced the line around the hook, much easier if you dip the end in thin CA glue to create a rigid portion to pass through the running line. After creating the splice I thread the serving material on a fine needle and pass it through the splice a couple of times to hold it together. Next I secure the other end to a swivel to allow the line to rotate. The serving thread is in my fly tying bobbin the whole time. I rotate the head of the vice while holding the tag end of the serving thread along the line several turns to lock it tight and then apply a touch of CA to secure it. I then just continue to turn the line with the rotary vice using the bobbin to feed the serving thread. I also apply diluted PVA glue to the served area as I complete several inches and then keep serving. As I approach the required length I leave enough of the line to pass through the fitting on the bowsprit, disconnect the line from the apparatus, pass it through the fitting, make a splice and serve that area and finish with some half-hitches, a touch of CA and the diluted PVA. Rather like tying fishing flies. My directions are probably as clear as mud but feel to post any questions or contact me. No patents pending so free feel to copy my cheapskate serving apparatus 😁
  13. A bit more work, I decided it was time to start rigging the bowsprit. The directions called for sister hooks so after Googling them to see what they were I made up a couple and was fair happy how they turned out. I used a bit of wire and bent it into shape. Not sure they are to scale but will not let anyone near the model with a micrometer. I also served the line full length with a Rube Goldberg contraption I cobbled together and will post photos of that later.
  14. A bit of an update: I moved on to painting the accents on the hull below the scuppers and the edge of the cap rail. Liberal use of masking tape sure helped! After removing the tape I went back and touched up a few areas and finally decided enough is enough already. I have to shift my perspective from a microscopic view to a two foot view, looks good to me. The plans called for a cream color the same as the interior but I exercised artistic license and painted them white for a bit more contrast. I also stained the exposed hull frames a bit as they looked too pristine to me. I needed some eyebolts and after trying to close the gap and solder it on the kit supplied items made my own by twisting wire around an appropriate sized drill bit and like them much better, very easy to do.
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