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    Suburban Chicago
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    Fly tying and Trout fishing in my Nirvana, New Zealand.

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  1. Time for an update: I have been spending time working on the fiddly bits and machinery. I installed the windless in it's frame and attached the brakes, I then turned my attention to the brake mechanism on the post. The plans and instructions seemed to contradict each other one calling for wood arms and the other for a rectangular brass arm. I found a photo of the winch that appeared to show steel arms so I went that route as the other options would have been a challenge to connect, probably not period correct but the model is not destined for a museum or juried competition. I used a piece of s
  2. Looking good! I second the opinions for using yellow glue, works much better, Titebond is a brand that has worked well for me. As for excess cleanup, I have found that if you let the excess start to setup and get a bit rubbery it is easy to cut that excess away with a sharp knife.
  3. As a relative newcomer myself don't try to build a museum quality masterpiece first time out, do the best work you can and it will be a great learning experience! Enjoy your progress and ask any and all questions, I have received great advice and help from experienced members here. As to sanding, druxey gave great advice, I have found that a flat piece of sandpaper will lie fine on a flat surface without rubber cement although it will certainly help! Another thing I have found is that when sanding a long surface like the planks in your photo I unintentionally tend to apply a bit more pressure
  4. Another vote for Renaissance Wax. Apply it it to rope and draw the rope through the fingers to create a bit of friction. I have also used it for years on wood, metal, paper and cardboard also with no ill effects. It is a favorite of museum conservators due to it's neutral PH and longevity. A bit expensive but a small container will probably last a lifetime. https://www.talasonline.com/Renaissance-Wax
  5. G. Delacroix, thanks for your input! I reviewed the instructions and believe I have installed the wheels backwards!☹️ I will attempt to correct that, you have a very sharp eye. MS4000_Cannon_Wheel_construction_method.pdf
  6. Thanks! I could probably still reverse them. You are exactly right!! As I mentioned instruction were a bit lacking. I should have done some research.
  7. Sea Hoss, I cut the rudder post in order to be able to insert the rudder from from the bottom, much easier to adhere and paint the rudder to the post while not in place. If anyone tried to move the rudder with the tiller it would immediately break the handle. I left enough of the post above the rudder to allow it to be easily inserted into the hull and the cut not visible.
  8. Beautiful Job! As a retired 35 year Firefighter we used to call that brand of apparatus American Take a Chance.
  9. A few months ago I took a break from ship modeling and spied the Napoleon Cannon and Limber kit on sale at Model Expo for about 1/2 price. I decided to give it a try and thoroughly enjoyed it! The large scale made it easier than many ship models. The parts and material supplied were typical of Model Shipways, wood good, castings fair the biggest surprise was the instructions were mediocre at best. I muddled through and was pleased with the result. One of the most tedious but enjoyable tasks was building the wheels. A template and building fixture was included and each wood spoke had to be shap
  10. Thanks Will! Epoxy seemed the strongest option that would give me time to adjust position.
  11. A bit more progress to report. I installed the lashing rails. It was very straight forward but I still need to paint them. I turned my attention next to the tiller. The tiller handle itself is very delicate and I used utmost care shaping it lest I damage it. I am happy with result, in the photo it is temporarily in position as the post still requires painting. Next I worked on the winch. I painted the metal part and let it dry. I worked on the whelps to get a proper gluing surface on their bottoms. I then used a small file to get down to bare metal on the landing surface after care
  12. I purchased a diamond file to work brass and it worked great.
  13. Excellent suggestion! I have found it easy to use a bit of excess glue, wipe off as much as you can immediately after installation and then lightly sand the area before the glue sets and the sawdust created will then fill the area. It has worked both with CA and PVA adhesives and saves a step as it is done during original installation rather than later. Even if you don't edge glue the planks after the plank is installed put a little glue over the seam, wipe off the excess and lightly sand the area. Much easier than slathering the hull with wood filler and sanding for hours. Saves mixing up a
  14. Sea Hoss, thank you for your thoughtful comment! I actually did consult the plans and directions in advance, so now I will probably have to relinquish my man card. The decision came down to the old chicken or egg first conundrum. I finally decided to install the brass first as it will give me specific area to create the slot for the the rudder strap. I realize some of the simulated fasteners may be in the way but I thought I could either flatten them or file them flush prior to installing the strap. I appreciate all comments especially those that may point out perils or pitfalls moving forward
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