Fernando E

HISTORIC ANECDOTE:
As I sink my teeth into this hobby, I am reading more about maritime history. Half the fun for me is the research. I'm currently reading this fascinating book, The Ship Asunder, by Tom Nancollas. It helps me understand why the hull shape between the Endeavour, launched as the Earl of Pembroke in 1764, is so substantially different to the Bluenose II.
 

 
As a bark ship, the Earl of Pembroke was designed with rounded bows and a flat bottom as she needed ample carrying capacity, being used for coastal sailing transporting coal. This carrying capacity was one reason why, in 1768, she was purchased by the navy for South Sea exploration and renamed Endeavour.
 
FITTING BULKHEADS
After a cuppa (giving a good hour or so for the keel to set), I proceeded to cut out the bulkheads - 10 in total.
 

 
I then marked where each bulkhead would sit against the keel in pencil. These lines will help guide how I position the bulkheads to ensure they are straight.
 

 

 
I then dry fitted the bulkheads to the keel to test their fit. Compared to the AL model I built previously, the OcCre bulkheads slid on easily, with ample wriggle room; no filing was necessary to fit.
 

 
I am careful to ensure each bulkhead sits flush to the keel. The exception is piece no.4, the first bulkhead from the stern, which sits 5mm lower by design.
 

 
Following Mastini's recommendation, I then dry fit the false lower deck to the model to help square and align the bulkheads. While Mastini recommends pinning this deck, I leave mine free as I need to remove this deck later for planking in the next stage.
 

 
Using my square, I align each bulkhead and then run wood glue down the bow and stern side of each frame. I then add a touch of CA (I use Roket rapid) to help "grab" straight off the bat, ensuring capillary action.
 

 

 
Et voila, now to let this sit with deck in place for a good few hours. I'll remove the deck to go onto planking as the next step, but it's important that I don't touch the keel or frames for the next 24 hours.
 

 
My next step is planking. I'll be double checking how long and wide the planks on the Endeavour are, and rechecking the trenail pattern.
 
I will likely use my own wood supply for the decks... perhaps use Tung or Orange oil for the stain. Thoughts and recommendations on ideal dimensions and recommended oil are of course welcome!

A brief introduction to this kit  ---
Unpacked and contents checked.
All complete and in very good order.
Ply sheets perfectly flat and undamaged,  All strip wood is of finest quality and straight as a die.
Fittings and brass sheets perfect.  Eight big sheets of plans.   Full size plans are important.
With my eyes measuring from reduced plans then scaling up or down is hard work.
Ordered necessary paint pots with kit plus, balsa sheets for stem and stern blocking.
Bought a building board from my local hardware shop.
Already have wood glue and cyano in stock from my last build.
Tanganyika strip supplied instead of lime so no extras to buy.
Have a copy of Marquardt's AOTS book and, James Lees Masting and Rigging in stock
also several logs (of excellent quality) on this forum
Noticed from other logs on this forum that there may be a problem with the width
of the mizzen channels but have found enough 2mm walnut sheet in my spares box
to cover this.  So all ready to go.
First is to build the jig,  then assemble the false keel and bulkheads and the false decking.
Working as a draughtsman for 53 years, 20 of these using AutoCad I much prefer
drawings rather than pictures so am really looking forward to working on this kit.
 
Photo's to follow.
 
Best regards,
Sam.

I'm Canberran born and bred. A hidden beautiful city of roundabouts and parks.
 
And thanks for the welcome, guys! I'm currently in Melbourne over Easter but once I'm home I'll start the Endeavour log!

Hi everyone 👋
 
First time poster, long time lurker. I've been perusing more and more frequently MSW and have found it such an amazing resource... I bit the bullet and have joined.
 
New to model ship building, but have been modelling since I was a kid. I was lucky enough to grow up with my grandparents owning a hobby store, so every weekend my brother and I would spend our days there.
 
I've picked up the hobby again in adulthood, recently completed my first model ship - the AL Bluenose II. While certainly not perfect, I had an immense amount of fun and caught the bug. I have since been gifted the OcCre Endeavour for my birthday, and back ordered the Caldercraft Agamemnon... for when I feel brave enough.
 
Below are some pictures of my AL Bluenose II during and after construction. I didn't take comprehensive photos of the build... but I will endeavour (ba-dum-tss) to do so with the Endeavour!
 
During the second layer of planking

 
My first attempt at putting lipstick on the supplied barrels

 
Close ups of the deck while under construction


 
And shots of the near-complete and complete model
 
 


 

 
Looking forward to my time in this community!
KJ
 
 
 

A quick update: the planking above the channels and below the main rail has been completed: 
 

 
Now, I will brush a first coat of yellow and then continue with the upper planking and the rails. I usually place 5 coats of yellow and blue, with fine sanding in between. It takes time to make it look nice.
 
Yves

Hello everyone. I would like to introduce myself. I am a 44 year old recovering alcoholic with 5 years sobriety. Many great things have happened as a result. (If there is anyone out there struggling with addiction, just know there is a better life out there if you really want it). One of those great things was that many of my old interests and hobbies started coming back to the forefront, and one of them was my love of ships. Ever since my Grandmother first told me of the Titanic, I was hooked on ships and shipwrecks. paired with a passion for the ocean, specifically Nantasket beach since I grew up there. (I moved to Hull, Massachusetts in 1984, just in time to watch them tear down the beloved "Paragon Park") 
     So one day at work I was just looking at a bunch of old photos of old Nantasket beach, and I began to come across photos of the old steamboats that once serviced the area. Hull being a summer resort town, and during the turn of the last century there were many Steamboats that ferried people to and from Boston and the surrounding areas... So that's when I got the Idea that I would like to model one of these steamboats, but which one. There were so many... The SS Rose Standish, The SS Betty Alden, The SS Mayflower, The SS Town of Hull. But the one boat that really captured me was the SS Nantasket. Her beautiful lines, and ornate paddle box, really make her something to see. 
      The beginning stages of research were not as easy as I initially though. It took me a while to figure out that there were actually at least to my knowledge four paddle steamers named "Nantasket". I set my focus on the second Steamer to carry that name. She was built by the shipbuilding company Montgomery and Howard in Chelsea, Massachusetts in 1878 for the Hingham, Hull, and Downer's Landing Steamboat company. I do not have the exact numbers in front of me at the moment, but I believe she was 174.5' from Stem to Stern, 28' beam, and 9' draft wooden hull, single cylinder vertical (walking) beam steam engine. She was later sold to some company who ran her in the Sag Harbor area of New York, or New Jersey. I believe in 1910 she was  sold again to the Keansburg Steamboat Co. and renamed SS Keansburg. Sadly she succumbed to a dock fire on April 16, 1928.
     I apologize if this post is getting long winded.  One of my other hobbies is 3D modelling. I have dabbled a little over the years, tinkering with Bryce, Blender, etc. I picked up a 3D resin printer last year to create miniatures for Dungeons and Dragons, so naturally when the thought of modelling a ship came to mind, I knew I had to incorporate that into this build. So in anticipation I began to learn and teach myself Fusion 360. I have been at it for a little over a year now, and would like to show you all what I have so far. Keep in mind that I have also been reading antique books on ship building, and also taught myself how to read ships plans. I would also like to thank a member of this forum who started a similar project, and who was the inspiration for this project, The Hull from these two boats are very similar, and there being no plans available of the Nantasket, I have decided to use these as a base.: 
 
3-D Armenia by SalD – Hudson River Sidewheeler, 1847 
https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=armenia&quick=1
 
       From his post I was able to find out that a copy of the plans he was using actually came from an issue of "Steamboat Bill" magazine from 1956. So after five failed attempts, this is my sixth iteration. I plan to model this project in 3D, and use Fusion to create the parts I need. I plan on purchasing a CNC router in the near future, so I will have that at my disposal as well. I look forward to meeting you all, and look forward to documenting my build here on the forum. Thank you!!!
 
Skip
 
 

Here are a couple of better pics of the "Nantasket"... I have also began collecting post cards of her. I believe one of them shows her under the Brooklyn Bridge.

Hey There! After a lengthy pause (which was filled by other non-shipbuilding projects) I've pulled out the Dragen from Billings. The level of difficulty was the reason I started the Will Evered. I'm just going through the parts now, and looking at the plans. I've also taken a look at the other builds of the same boat. When building the Will, I often complained about the lack of detail in the plans, and didn't think it possible that any other model would have even LESS information. I was wrong. The building plans for the Dragen leave even more to the imagination!

More work completed on the lower mast tops. Although I used some of the parts within the kit I tried to make the tops a bit more realistic and shaped the ribs. I also used the milling machine to get a more accurate holes for the crows feet. All in all I am quite happy with the final result and made sure that the tops were on the same plane as the water line and keel. The stantions for the hand rails are at 90 deg to the tops but this did not look quite right on the mizzen due to being stepped at quite a large angle so  rightly or wrongly I set the handrail stantions inline with the mizzen mast. Here is a few photos of the process.
 


 



 

I also used the black card supplied with the kit cut into srtips to form the iron hoops on the mast heads and 1mm suare walnut for the battens.Sorry but once this is painted it is difficult to make out in the photos.
 
 
 

Still following Session #2, it is kind of difficult to figure out how the Stern and bow will be built. Therefore, I am leaving them unfinished for now: 
 

 

 
Yves

I am now working on the upper planking of the Port side of the vessel: 
 

 
The channels have been installed and glued, following the curves of the wales.
 

 

 
Next, I have to rework all the gun ports which do not have a lid. They have to be flush with the plywood of the upper hull. When that is done, I will plank the upper hull and install the wood strips (D) and (E).
 
YVes

Everything seems to be coming along nicely!  

Like others before me, it took me a bit to find the courage to flex the deck in place but it really just fits right in. Part of the deck did splinter a bit but it was nothing tragic or consequently. It really is incredible how perfectly everything has fit so far and it really has been plug and play. Even now the boat feels SOLID when picking it up. 

Next step is fairing. This is the first model in which I had to to do planking like this so a bit nervous. Any pointers or tips would be super appreciated! 

As you say, it's your model. So if your pleased with it that's all that really matters.
I'm a firm believer in this approach.

On a happier note, Indefatigable development moves on relentlessly. I have started the first planking of the hull, which will take a few days. Still not sorted a figurehead though, but all armament, anchors and other castings type fittings have already been produced.
 
I decided to 3-d print the majority of the belfry. This is still quite small, and the original has many shapes.  I did originally design it in separate parts, with laser cut and engraved supports, but it would have been quite fiddly to assembly, and I don't like fiddly if I can help it. I then designed it with the stanchions and canopy (always a problematic shape if in wood form) as one piece, and the bell cross beam in pear.
 
I have attached my original drawing for this, it will not look as 'clunky' as a wood only part. As with the anchors and guns, this is produced using black resin.

A few progress on that big hull, with the completion of the starboard side: 
 

 
I am still following the CAF instructions with the installation of the D and E wood parts.
 
The "D" strip is made of 4 x 3 mm, and the "E" strip of 3 x 2 mm. These are put in shape thanks to these small devices (Micro Shapers) from AMATI: 
 

 

 

 

 

 
This looks like great progress, but I still have the entire PORT side to tackle....
 

 
This will take me some time and most likely there won't be any updates for a little while. In the meantime, here is a view of the overall beast.
 
I am not moving too fast and decided to not install the decals for the freezes (Session #5) as I am trying to see if the kit can be put together by following the instructions, at least when it makes sense to follow them.... By the way, I changed the blue and went with an Ultramarine Blue from Liquitex. It is a lot darker and richer than the Cerulean blue I was planning to use at the beginning.
 

 
Yves

Well I have finally finished the first plank and preliminary sanding.  There's a couple of small gaps to be be filled that revealed themselves when the planks were sanded back (bevelling not done as accurately as I should have).  
I am using finely sanded plank material mixed with PVA, water and detergent to fill the gaps between planks.
The dark areas on the planks were a result of a previous fill with the PVA mix eating with a steel applicator.  I have to do a little more shaping sanding around the deadwood area before getting onto the cherry whales I plan to use.
I am happy how the planking went keeping as close to the original line of planking as I could.
 

 

A few more bits a pieces added to the bowsprit including the cleats for the gammoning, fairlead, wooden bands and woldongs. All fairly straight forward  other than a bit tricky getting the wooden bands to stay in place . I ended up using two spots of CA whhere the two ends meet and then running a bead of superphatic glue on the inside of the bands before running 0.5mm black thread for the woldings. Just a few more cleats for the Stays and preventer stays and then the collars to complete.
 



Next will I will be moving onto carrying out ptetty much the above to the main,fore and mizzen masts. Starting with the fitting of the cheeks to the main and fore masts. 
 

My printers who do my plans and manuals did it for me, gratis. I have had it in its tube since last November, but couldn't put it up until the new door and the two large doors were fitted..

Little update..
 
My 'new' garage conversion is now more or less complete. I now have a good electricity supply going into the workshop and have a good amount of sockets, so no more extensions snaking all over the floor. The final job was the insulated roller shutter doors. I took a couple of pics, but realised I took these after I just finished maintenance (cleaning) of the laser machines. In this room, the parts are produced, both laser cut sheets and castings.
 
I have also added a couple of pics on my Indy prototype progress. This is the third hull since starting, and the final designs. All beams and decks above the gun deck are just dry fitted in place, to check general fit of all of these parts, the beams especially. The upper deck and poop you see are sub decks only, and they will require planking (no pre etched decks for the final kit). But I will include the etched planking on the sub decks as shown, in case some want to use as a template. Decks can be fully planked or part open, as shown. I would suggest you don't deviate too much from these openings, however, as there are 10 guns per side on the quarter and forecastle deck..
 
Gun deck inner bulwarks have been added (all pre-cut) as well as spirketting. Most of the outer hull will be planked in the traditional manner, though.
 
It has been a lot of long hours to get to this stage, but I can relax a little once all critical structural parts are finalised - but these very early stages of the pre-prototype will give you an idea of what I am aiming for, for this kit. I will keep on building using this hull until I get to the stage, like my Sphinx 'throwaway' (which I still have...) where I know everything fits as it should, then over to Jim!

My first planking attempt. Went reasonable well

Hello every one I joined awhile back but this is my first build thread here.
I just received the kit today. I will start the build tomorrow and will post progress and pictures as I go, feel free to comment on any mistakes I make or ideas to make the build better.

I have finally got the top 2 planks installed on both sides of the ship. It turned out better than I thought. The only thing is, there is not much overlap on the top plank to the bottom plank in places. Hopefully this will not be a problem.
 

Still following (more or less) the CAF Model instructions, it is now time to dress and stiffen the upper section of the hull. I am approaching one side of the hull at a time. Because of the large size and weight of the hull, it is not practical to jump back and forth between the two sides.
 

 
So, after Step #8 (Coppering), we are now focusing onto Step #9. The main wales (B) have already been taken care of before the planking of the hull, as indicated before. I am now planking the space between (B - Wales) and (C - Channels). This is done in the following way, after careful measurements: 
 

 
(A) is coppering, (B) are the wales and (C) the channels. The distance between the wales and the Channels is of about 28-29 mm. As some of you may recall, I installed a lime wood strip of 6 mm wide x 2 mm thick (not provided in the kit) on top of the main wales. That strip plus three strips of 8 mm x 0.4 mm Maple (provided in the kit) will end up at around 29 mm, once sanded and glued. So it will fit perfectly and is easy to install and cut with scissors. 
 

 
You can see the progressive transition from the bulky 3 mm thick wales to the top wale (2 mm) and then the hull planking at 0.4 mm.
 
A view of the bow: 
 

 
You can see that I started building the Channels, using the 2 mm x 8 mm planks provided in the kit (Package "C").
 
The question came for the stern. Should I extend all the planking to the very end of the ship or should I stop it at a certain distance? Will the planking (and specifically the channels), affect the construction of the Galleries (coming in Session #5 .... and thus far away).
 
After a quick discussion with Tom, it was decided to extend all planking all the way to the end, and then sand very thin the channels at the exact size of the side galleries, so that no extra thickness exists to jeopardizes the alignment of the windows.
 

 
I hope you are enjoying the discovery of that complex and large kit.
 
Yves
 
 

Completed the spare masts including the spare stunsaol booms. I stiil need to attatch the lower stunsail booms to the channels but all in good time. I have also done some work on the bowsprit and Jibboom  but still need to add the cleats and fairlead saddle.  Also fro Lees book there are no iron bands only rope woldings with wooden rings on each side as per the other masts other than the iron bands on the caps. For the bowsprit  bees I made my own as per lees book and also fitted some bees blocks. which helped to secure the bees. I also made the bowsprit cap too. Here is a few photos of this weeks work. Doesn't seem a lot but there you go.


 
 

 

Finally, Step 8 of the second session is over. 
 

 
I am letting you enjoy the plethora of information and guidance that CAF model is giving to the builder: Coppering !!! It is all in the name :-)
 
That tedious process is finally over, with close to 2,400 tiles cut, embossed, peeled and placed by hand. The number is very close to what the real ship used and that is a testimony to the size of the model tiles (25 mm x 8 mm). I would absolutely recommend the process of using the 3M copper tape, as it is so much easier to prepare, install and glue than pre-cut tiles with CA glue. The burnishing allowed with the copper tape also permits you to finish nicely, those delicate sections where a piece of metal may not fit perfectly.
 
Finally, if the cost is a consideration, know that I was able to finish this enormous hull with only two rolls of tape and I have plenty left for the rudder or any repair. Cost was $43 including shipping versus the $400 for the tiles + many glue bottles that the kit copper tiles would cost you. A big thank you to all the readers that have convinced me to go with the tape.
 

 

 

 
I am going to let it sit for a few days, as the copper is slowly tarnishing and acquiring that red and warm hue that I enjoy so much. After that I will seal it with Future Floor most likely.
 
Let's enjoy some pictures of the finished animal: 
 

 

 

 

 

 
For those who would be tempted to follow this process, here is the invoice for the two rolls of 3M tape: 
 

 
and the product: 
 

 
There are some variations in the color of the tiles, which is actually rather pleasant, but the more I wait and the more everything blends nicely like the foliage in autumn.
 
I hope you have enjoyed that approach. I know I was very hesitant to start it and I do not regret it in any ways. The only casualty of this process is that I no longer have a full nail on my right thumb, after peeling 2400 copper tiles from their protective adhesive backing. I am going to force on the brewer's yeast supplements to re-grow that nail....
 
Yves