
Mldixon
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Chapter Nine begins and comes to a screeching halt... Remember this photo, well I tore all that planking on both sides of the bow out all well as the starboard side of the q gallery deck. Now I gottta tell you that it broke my heart to do this, but I've come a long way to compromise at this point in the build. It just wasn't right. 🔺 A really sharp chisel did the trick, and I had plenty of practice doing this when I was planking the hull. 🔻 The problem was my bulwarks shape. I cut the planks from chuck's Template and just forged ahead. But my ship was not Chuck's Ship, and even though I could install them, it wasn't right. In the next photo you can see a clear template that I overlaid on the framing this was adjusted to the center line of the hull. I clamped it into place, and all was revealed. My margin planks were installed to my incorrect hull and it threw the whole thing out of kilter 🔻This next photo is the Qdeck and the wave in the planking. Now at this point it was clear to me that I could not proceed and that is when I started tearing up the decks. One bright note in this destructive process was that I remembered knocking out some windows and did not repeat that mistake. So the solution to my problem is going to be to lay all the center line decks first fore and aft. These areas are correct and will split the decking into equal parts port and starboard. Then I am going to lay the deck planks from the center line outward to margin planks, and then the Margin planks will have to be scribed to the bulwarks as they are, I will most likely have to change the widths and tapers, I am hoping the this will result in a symmetrical deck that is more pleasing to the eye. I am going to do this with paper and cardboard templates to make sure it will look right before cutting the actual deck planks. So much for a well laid plan....
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The start of chapter nine. I have to cut some more planks and make the hatch covers so this is where I concluded building till I catch up on some supply chain issues Cap rails were pretty straight forward, I love the look of this. Cap rails make a world of difference in the overall look of this model. I use a bic lighter and crayons to create a wax filler to hide the seams and minor flaws. The primer paint sticks to it, and I have no idea why...still working on fine tuning . Planking was not perfect, but I'm going to keep it for the moment. The camera shows the port and starboard sides as unequal in this photo, and I shuddered at the thought of replacing one side or the other, then I went back to the model and checked and they are the same size. I thought it was odd to have them come out differently as I had cut them from the templates with rubber cement as suggested by Chuck. In the above photo they look fine Just the camera I guess as it looks right when viewing the model. I'll put it to the test with some other viewers and see if they make a comment. The center planks are just resting as I prepare more wood.
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Inspired workmanship, leave no stone unturned...
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Glad to see you photos have gone upright, I thought I had an inner ear problem...She looks great.
- 105 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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So when you watch the video of the carver doing the Cutty Sark figurehead. You can translate what he's doing directly to zbush. The big difference as he points out is that his is not an additive process. Zbrush let's you correct mistakes and reverse course when necessary. Other than that its the same, start with a form and manipulate the shapes...sounds easy enough. 😆
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You own the program, and its permanent forever. You just have to purchase future releases if you choose to get the latest and greatest. I never own anything with a subscription plan.. thought you might like this ,nice link to figurehead carving art https://hec.lrfoundation.org.uk/whats-on/blogs/figurehead-carving-a-lost-art
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Yes, export a blocked model as close to your figure as possible. I like to fit it to the digital model I'm working on. Then you can start the chipping away and building out process. You'll need to pay attention to the subdividing of the import after you start modeling as that let's you add the very fine details As far as results on par with Chucks guy, thats a leap, I have toyed around with some bas relief, but I fear you need a lot of Anatomy skills and a sculpture background to get to those levels, but doable for sure. I tried winnies wreaths on the aft transom as practice, I bought Chucks...lol Not sure what my version is but I think 2021, I'd go for 2022, they just announced that updates for permanent licenses won't be provided,, bummer
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Yep, Chuck suggested I only breech, so I tried that, and liked the look. But the .055 rope from his store really sold the package. If your printer is resin you'll get great results on the lanterns. I printed all my cannons and was amazed at the detail. Airbrushed them with a bronze metallic paint over a black primer coat
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Not too bad a curve, I use the crash bang method of learning new programs, l watched the absolute begineers videos on YouTube, that was a great help. I like to jump in and go for end result, rather than go through tutorials. Lots of starting over, but quicker results as you get the skills specific to what you need. I haven't tried 2d approach yet, I suggest you export a 3d model from your cad program as a stl, and then import that as a starting point for wherever your headed.
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