canoe21

Thanks Lawrence..... the fun will begin to start shortly,....... tying off the ropes!! ( let's see now, where does this one go ??? )   
 
frank

Thanks to everyone for your kind words, support, and encouragement.  And for the "likes".
 
I have completed most, but not all of the standing rigging.  Here are some pictures to show progress.  Again, the instructions accompanying this model are very good, but the information provided by Chapelle (The American Fishing Schooners 1825 - 1935) REALLY is helpful.  Chapelle gives dimensions for SO many things - the turnbuckles, the crosstrees, etc that a modeler needs to know to make things in correct proportion (not that I always did...).
 
These build logs are intended in part to give help to future modelers.  Two pieces of advice.  First, for splicing line, get large needles called "yarn darners" (ask the Admiral).  These come in a packet with a variety of sizes with eyes that will accept most rigging diameters.    Second, to make turnbuckles at 1/48 scale, use the 1/16" square wooden strips.  Drill a hole longitudinally through a piece 3/8" long.  Make an eye is steel wire, run the wire through the wood, and make an second eye.  Smooth the ends of the wood to the shape of a turnbuckle, paint it grey to look like galvanized steel, and put a black stripe down opposite sides to create the appearance of the open center.  
 
 

Lawrence, Heinz, Jparsley, and Brian,
     I thank you all for following the Bounty's build, and additionally thankful that Heinz decided not to use his copper plates. They arrived in great condition, and I know they will make the ship look even more beautiful in the end. I am recovering from a hospital stay and surgery, but some progress on the ship has been made.  I will post the recent photos to keep this log up to date.
Charlene

Thank you very much Boyd,
 
I`m about to finalize My "Pegasus" soon, There`s not much go any more. The intension is to do it when the follower model "KWdG"  hull, which is well on the way, has been plated......
 
Nils
 
Here the present status of "HMS Pegasus" :
 
made a new, and larger white ensign on cloth of an old fine-structured handkerchief by ink printing / ironing methode,
 
when complete all square sails shall be braced to appr appr. 45° angle. The  main courses sheets and tack-lines as well as the bow-lines still need to be rigged. Also the spare spars resting on the gallows still have to be made, whereby the ships boat is already finished for mounting. Half of the anchors are done. Maybe also a securing rudder chain will be fitted
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Build log part 89
 
 
here some impressions of the status,,.....
 
ready for rigging bracelines, bowlines, tacks, outer anchor cables
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Build log part 87
 
 
Update
 
have started to coil up the line-ends  (separate coils)
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
several lines to foremast bits and to bow pin rails
 
 

 
 

nice appreciative comment Lawrence,
 
thank you very much, and I`m sure that your "Annie M." is going to be a pride of a schooner under full rigged sails in not so Long time....
 
Nils

Time out for a little update.......... I,m starting to attach the mizzen and main mast sails.... the first one finished is the mizzen. the sail was a  little big  so I had to cut it some... unlike the yard sails  that are reduced  a third of their size , these are full , I thought it would be a little difficult leaving them full lenght and width, but as it turned out at least the mizzen did'nt come out too bad. I soaked it up pretty good with the glue mixture so hopefully it'll set OK .
 
 
Here I'm marking were the rings will atacg to the sail

 
 
the furl is complete  just letting it dry up some

 
 
temporarily set on deck

 
This last one shows zip sizeings being made

 
Thanks for ooking in
 
Frank 
 
 
 
                                                                                                                      

....... continued
 
Once the glue has dried I trim off the tails of the seizings with sharp sidecutters. The tails of the "splice" in the strop are cut with an Xacto knife :
 

 

 

 
 Danny

This is how I tie the strops to the clue blocks. Below is a pic from TFFM on the configuration of the Clue block, Sheet block and Tack at the foot of the sail.  Note that the clue block strop has a large eye to enable it to turn around the eye in the boltrope :
 

 
First step is to tie the seizing for the eye. Here's the setup I use. The wire hook gives me more room to work the seizing around the strop :
 

 
I start by tying the seizing with a single knot around the strop :
 

 
Then I apply some dilute PVA and tie 2 half-hitches around the strop. This gives the effect of a siezing and won't come undone later on :
 

 
Next I turn the block/strop assembly around in the vise and tie a single knot around the **** of the block :
 

 

 
More PVA is applied to the knot and I pull it tight :
 

 

 
Continued in next post ........

Hi all,
 
Here's a small "tutorial" on how I make the rather tricky Clue (aka Clew) Blocks. The ones here are scale 9" blocks and are just 4.5mm long in 1:48 scale. I'm also making 8" and 6" blocks using the same techniques.
 
I start by cutting the stock for as many as I need from English Box. I find this the best wood to use for these as it has no grain and is very dense, important features on something this small that requires a number of holes.
 
Next I set the 0.020" kerf blade on the table saw to cut a shallow groove for the sheaves.
 
Then I drill the sheave holes using my mill - saves a lot of time and ensures accuracy, but it can be done using a Dremel or Pin Vise. Here's a pic up to this stage :
 

 
Back to the table saw again, and I cut the various steps required :
 

 

 
Using a very narrow chisel made from an Xacto blade I clean up the holes and round off the shoulders of the "sheaves". This not only improves the look of them but makes the line pass through them more realistically. The two blocks on the right in this pic have been shaped :
 

 
Next I drill the two holes for the strop through the head of the block using a Pin Vise :
 

 
A sanding stick fitted with 240 grit paper is used to shape the head of the block in both planes, and I cut the **** of the block with a sharp Xacto. The sides of the block are rounded with a small flat needle file :
 

 

 
Once detached from the stock I tidy the rest of the block up with the sanding stick, and also cut a notch for the strop (that stops it from slipping off the block later on). Here's the finished article, the coin measures about 19mm in diameter :
 

 

 
I use most of the above techniques for making all my blocks, the only real variation to these is the shaping of the head of the block and the drilling of the two strop holes. On normal blocks I use the table saw to cut a 2nd shallow groove in the stock for the strop.
 
 Danny

Hello cg451 and David.  Your advice on Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners" is right on for this build.  I was able to get a copy used in great condition online.  The man's attention to detail is astounding.
 
The glue cured overnight and today I started fairing the hull.  Also, note the stand that I constructed to hold the hull upside down.  I took advantage of the holes for the mast steps and used dowels of the appropriate diameter that I secured into a piece of scrap wood.  This will provide me with a stable platform to use when planking the hull.  Obviously I am not done "fairing" yet but did want to provide a progress report.
 
<<Gary>> 

I has the most trouble with the main turret wall.  The first time I glued it up it did not fit the base properly in trying to fix it I damaged it.  Fortunately I had scanned the plans earlier just in case,  This time I cut out the opening for the cannons.  The carriage was not acceptable and I redid it. Then I fitted everything and proceeded to put in the cannons.



Then to my surprise the main guns would not fit in their numbered occasions.  After some trial and error.  I found out that for some reason the print mislabeled the assemblies.  Once I reversed the locations I got a god fit.
David B

I then started working on the cannons.  This time even though I followed the plans and studied everything it was a bit tricky.
The first thing was cut out the main parts to build up the base'



Then I started on the barrels.  This is where I deviated a bit.  I was not happy using the card for the core to flimsy.  I took a toothpick and using Jim"s draw plate I brought it down to the right diameter and used that as a core.
After building them up I painted them watercolor.  I thought they were a great improvement.




David B
 
 

I have been lax lately so I better bring things up to date.  After making the 6" guns I glued them into place an assembled the Panzerdstan.



David B

One the items I picked up I have found very useful..When many of us use glue we usually put some on a pad and apply a needed so as to not make a mess.  I piked up a couple of syringes. and at the advice of a friend tried using them.  Less mess and more control.

David B

I have made some progress and finished the deck house.  Thanks for the tip.  

 
I started working on the 6" guns.  The first thing was to find and cut out the pieces and figure out how to assemble them.



One touched up they were put together.
So far so good.
David B
 

I then put in the rest of the interior.





The problem is I am not sure about how this last part is to be placed.  I went through the plans but I could not find anything.


So I will work around it until I can find and answer.
David B

Time for another update.  I started working on the center house.  Once more I cut out the panels and applied the extra panels.


I also cut out the deck and started to fit them into place.







So far so good
David B

Once everything was added to the side panels they were glued into place.  The first thing I did was to tack the bow sections in place so I could make sure everything was even on both sides.  And glued the sides to the hull.  I then noticed that one side was about a 1/16 to short.  So I cut a section and added a strip to make it fit.  A little pressure and the seam is hardly noticable.  I will proceed to hide it as I proceed with the model.





David B

The next item was the hull.  The sides were two parts each. The first thing was to cut them out and glue them together.
I used a piece of scrap on the back at the joint and a straight edge to make sure it was lined up properly.




Then I cut out and applied the accents.  This part was the nerve racking part where a steady hand and a sharp scalpel came in handy.




David B
 
 

The aft deck was pretty much the same way but once more the alcohol saved the day.  One of the items I found usful for applying glue is a dental pic.  Not only will it apply glue it helps to put pressure on the joint as well.
  On the aft deck to help with the tabs I used a ruler and some weight to get an even edge

Then after reworking the cabin sides I started to fit the roof. Dry fitting it first.



And once more a weight was used to help keep everything straight.




Then I proceeded to touch up the edges.
David B
 
 
 

I have been able to get some more into the Maine and was able to finish off the two cabins.
And here is where I found that rubbing alcohol can be your best friend. 
While fitting the roof of the forward cabin I noticed that the walls were not fully aligned.  By using a brush and a drop of rubbing alcohol I was able to reposition everything for a better fit.  Plus the alcohol evaporated quickly and did not stain or damage the material.  Once the roof was placed to my satisfaction I glued it down using a weight to hold it until the glue dried.  Then a little touch up with a brush and it is about as good as I can make it.
.






David B
 

The next piece of business was the roofs of the for and aft cabins.  Basically cut them out and put in the plugs for the holds.
This was straight forward just keep a steady hand and a sharp knife.  The holds were put together by folding them and adding a piece of paper to the back to aid in the glue up.  Then everything was glued together






David B

Thanks Lawrence, I'm just taking a few weeks off at the moment.. There are major roadworks going on outside my build room and it isn't ideal for delicate work     (has been going on for the past 2 months and won't be finished 'till end of August..)
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn