hamilton

Hi Andy:
 
Great shot! Your rails look perfect - I wish my build was as clean as yours....The real issue for me is maintaining the overall colour scheme and not adding anything new in one section of the build that isn't reflected elsewhere....I had thought about staining the rails with Golden Oak, and using black (or blue) on the vertical timbers, but this went out the window once I decided to use the Corel flexible beech instead of cutting the rails from a thicker sheet of lime....
 
This is certainly a tricky part of any build and I look forward to an opportunity to do better! 
hamilton

Nice job on the head timbers.  I couldn't make those in 1,000 years.  The best part is the symmetry as seen from head-on.
 
Congrats!

You've done a great job there.
 
Head timbers are never easy (even ones in kits are bu***rs). Personally I think your colours are fine as they are, they match well with the ship.
 
What you may wish to consider (And it's entirely up to you, of course), is tying in the vertical head frames to the stem. Like this:

 
 
Andy

Just helping to embed the idea firmly into your subconscious, where it will reside.......taunting you for years to come....... until there will come a day when you will no longer be able to tolerate the incessant droning in the back of your mind......... "build me.......Build me.......Build ME!"    

Hi Andy - I know it seems weird to go back and build something again...but when I consider the beauty of the vessel and the deficiencies of the Corel kit, and the existence of the Goodwin book....it is a tempting idea....anyway, such a project would be impossible for me at the moment....I have a few kits left to build and a lot of tools to buy (not to mention a bigger house with a proper workshop).....
hamilton

Thanks BE, Ferit, Augie & Andy for the comments! Much appreciated - yes this is a very small scale to work in....at some point in the far far future I'd like to scratch build this from the Goodwin book at 1:48 scale - it would be a bit of a monster, but would be a lot of fun! 
hamilton

Careful there Hamilton.  You're about to enter "The Darkside".       Super looking pumps and bridle port lids.

The galley stack was quite straightforward. I constructed it out of a single 3mm x 3mm strip of lime, shaped according to the drawings in Goodwin and painted black. I drilled and filed out a hole for the actual funnel, but it's barely noticeable...I cut and stained a 6mm x .5mm piece of lime for the base and wrapped some pinstripe tape around it to simulate an iron band that Goodwin shows just below the outlet. Here it is.
 

 
I was a little worried about the pumps but they ended up not being too difficult to make. I used 2mm x 2mm lime, with a section filed out at the end for the pump bracket, and 3mm x .5mm lime (shaped) for the handle. Here is a shot of some of these parts beside the kit-supplied metal part.
 

 
I used a 4mm dowel for the pump barrel. I drilled a hole in the side for the spout, which I made from a piece of brass rod. I drilled another hole in the top and painted the interior black to simulate a well. A bit of pin stripe tape wrapped around the top simulates an iron band, and a small piece of wire set in the well and propping up the handle completed the assembly. Here is a comparison with the Corel part....
 

 
....and here are mine installed on deck....
 

 

 
hamilton

Well I have a couple of updates - one documenting the bridle port lids and the other documenting the galley stack and the elm tree pumps. Here goes.
 
The bridle port lids consist of 2 layers of planking - a horizontal (outboard) layer consisting of 2 6mm x 1.5mm lime and a vertical (inboard) layer consisting of 3mm x .5mm lime, painted red. Here are a few shots of the process.
 

 

 
It took a bit of filing to get the port lid to fit, but eventually I got it....
 

 
I bevelled the inboard layer of planking and added a ring bolt in the lower centre. I also used 1/16" pinstripe tape and blackened brass wire to simulate the hinges and hinge pins outboard - they're a little large for scale....
 
Here's the finished product.
 

 
hamilton
 
 

A nice bit of scratching there hamilton, the decks are gaining interest as all the fitting are put into place.
 
It is worth repeating this is a small ship at only 1:100 scale, not easy making convincing fittings at that size.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks John, that's a method I will be practicing at some time in the future, it sounds good to me.  
 
As promised some pics of my efforts on the catheads and the completed stern.
 

 

 
Still to be rubbed down with a fine paper

 

 
mobbsie

I managed to spend a bit of time on the ship today. I finished off the inner bobstay. I also redid the gammoning using rope made on my ropewalk, and it looks much better I think. I have decided not to use any black rope on my model, I will use the tan rope and blacken it with thinned black paint, I reckon it gives a more realistic look.
 
Steve

Feels like a long time since I've made a post.  With a bit of focused effort all 16 carronades are ready for final assembly (last cannon is getting close), I'm taking maybe a rather convoluted approach but hoping it will work OK.  The pedestals are all attached to the deck, but I'm leaving the slides unattached for now so I can rig the breaching ropes off the ship.  It also give me a chance to align the elevations individually using the small elevation screws before attaching the turning handles.  I'm not sure of the correct elevation for these, but think it would make most practical sense to have a small gap at the top of the gunport as I've tried to achieve.
 
I'll leave off the deck fittings until everything is rigged to hopefully make this task as easy as possible.  Think I'm finally homing in on the approach to the rigging which I suspect will be the next never-ending task, but hope not.
 

 
 
 
 

Looks a good result Jason, those pre- drilled bowsprit caps are a pain because as you say the cap should be in a vertical plane when viewed from the side and the hole for the jibboom needs to be angled to suit the stive of the bowsprit. To make it so the hole becomes too big.
 
An additional problem on Pegasus was that there was no provision on the starboard side to take the Jack staff; I got around the problem by scratching a new cap and fixing angled inserts in the vice to give the correct stive for the hole before drilling.
 
Enjoy your trip back home.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

SUCCESS !
 
The case has been completed.  Amazingly, everything fit   :D .  Frankly, I can't believe it.
 
In addition, Syren exhibited her maneuverability (and sheer tenacity) in negotiating the perilous voyage from basement to home port.  The predictable 'I think it should be going the other way' battle was encountered and victory seized from the jaws of defeat.  Callie, the ships' cat, now has free run of the workshop once again with all rigging now under glass.
 
On the glass, I was looking for non-reflective but couldn't find it locally.  Still, she looks great.  And, although ME specifies 1/8" glass for the case, I went with 3/32 which is plenty strong, lighter and actually fits perfectly in the pre-cut slots (after some final sanding).  I'd estimate the total weight in the neighborhood of 20 pounds.
 

 
As advertised, the fit in the cabinet space is tight.
 
About 20 pages ago, I penned a list of thank you's and overall impressions about the project.  It's been a happy time for me and, I hope, for those who followed along.  I could not, would not, have finished without your encouragement.  Thanks to each and every one of you out there on MSW.
 
So now, in a (very) few days, we shall begin on Confederacy.  Her shipping crate has yet to be opened.  I'm hoping I can do her justice.
 
And with that, we shall now secure this thread.

Hey guys,
 
Wayne, thanks for stopping in!  I just noticed we have the same quote in our signatures just with different wording, how funny.
 
Hamilton, as I mentioned in my previous post, I am so relieved to have finally finished the coppering and I agree that the build will start to move along at a better pace now.  In fact, this update has multiple mini projects which were completed.
 
Update time:
 
This update is a bit picture heavy, sorry.  Also, this update is one in which the camera shows every flaw!  Anyways, I created the pintles and gudgeons for attaching the rudder and it is now attached.  The work of creating and installing the bulwark stanchions is also finished.
 
I cut a strip of brass measuring 1/32" x 1/64" off of a sheet of 1/32" thick brass I had laying around.  Then, to create the bends in the material, I clamped about 3/16" in a set of pliers and used my jeweler's hammer to hammer it flat against the flat side of the pliers I was using.  Then, just bent the second bend the best I could in the tight space about 1/8" up the strip and snipped off.  I was happy to get to use my jeweler's hammer for this because I just picked it up at the IPMS nationals which had something like 20,000 square feet dedicated to vendors and came fairly close to my stomping grounds.  On a side note, it was mostly all plastic models in the competition but there were about 5 wooden ship models there as well, one being the MS Niagara which is a ship I will likely build in the future (debating on that being my next project).  Back on topic, here are the rudder pintles before being painted and attached.  
 

 
I then painted them black along with the gudgeons and used epoxy to affix it all to the rudder and hull.  Chuck used a piece of wire in the hinge but I figured that won't be seen and the epoxy should be more than capable of holding the rudder in place.  The full scale measurements of the pintles and gudgeons are 3" tall and 1.5" thick which seemed reasonable to me.  Everything in this picture looks horrendous!  Once I saw the picture I looked very closely and decided I may do a little touch up of the paint but most of the flaws are not noticeable to the naked eye and it definitely passes the 5-foot test as it stands now.
 

 
When I was cutting the brass strip, it created a bunch of brass dust which I thought I would save for a future project maybe to be used as gold inside a chest or something.  I don't know for sure if it will prove to be of any use but I really did think it looked a lot like gold lol.  
 

 
Next, the bulwark stanchions.  I took pictures every step of the way except for ripping the strip of wood I used for them, so there are a lot of pictures here.
 
First, I marked the locations where the bulwark stanchions will be by using a strip of 1/4" square basswood and a sharpie.  I must have screwed up a little bit on the rear quarterdecks because one side has one more than the other.  No big deal but I thought I would mention it.
 

 

 
Next, I cut small lengths of wood from the 3/64" square strip of boxwood I ripped from a 3/64" thick sheet.  These dimensions are from Chuck's practicum where he calls for 1.2mm wood and these are about 1.15mm, pretty close. 
 

 
Following Chuck's instructions, I made each one a little too long.
 

 
Next, each one was filed down to be flush with the top of the bulwarks.
 

 
Here are a couple pictures of the bulwark stanchions installed from both the bow and stern of the ship.
 

 

 
Now on to installing the cap rail, bulwark details like cleats and eye bolts, fabricating the splash rail and fairleads, and then drilling the mast holes.  I like when there are a bunch of small projects to work on, it makes the build more enjoyable for me.  See you next time!

Great little upgrades!
 
She's going to look really sweet when you're done

I'm with Ferit.  Your scratch built stack, and particularly the pumps, outshine the supplied items.  Nice work.
 
I like your red, by the way.

The galley stack was quite straightforward. I constructed it out of a single 3mm x 3mm strip of lime, shaped according to the drawings in Goodwin and painted black. I drilled and filed out a hole for the actual funnel, but it's barely noticeable...I cut and stained a 6mm x .5mm piece of lime for the base and wrapped some pinstripe tape around it to simulate an iron band that Goodwin shows just below the outlet. Here it is.
 

 
I was a little worried about the pumps but they ended up not being too difficult to make. I used 2mm x 2mm lime, with a section filed out at the end for the pump bracket, and 3mm x .5mm lime (shaped) for the handle. Here is a shot of some of these parts beside the kit-supplied metal part.
 

 
I used a 4mm dowel for the pump barrel. I drilled a hole in the side for the spout, which I made from a piece of brass rod. I drilled another hole in the top and painted the interior black to simulate a well. A bit of pin stripe tape wrapped around the top simulates an iron band, and a small piece of wire set in the well and propping up the handle completed the assembly. Here is a comparison with the Corel part....
 

 
....and here are mine installed on deck....
 

 

 
hamilton

Well I have a couple of updates - one documenting the bridle port lids and the other documenting the galley stack and the elm tree pumps. Here goes.
 
The bridle port lids consist of 2 layers of planking - a horizontal (outboard) layer consisting of 2 6mm x 1.5mm lime and a vertical (inboard) layer consisting of 3mm x .5mm lime, painted red. Here are a few shots of the process.
 

 

 
It took a bit of filing to get the port lid to fit, but eventually I got it....
 

 
I bevelled the inboard layer of planking and added a ring bolt in the lower centre. I also used 1/16" pinstripe tape and blackened brass wire to simulate the hinges and hinge pins outboard - they're a little large for scale....
 
Here's the finished product.
 

 
hamilton
 
 

The galley stack was quite straightforward. I constructed it out of a single 3mm x 3mm strip of lime, shaped according to the drawings in Goodwin and painted black. I drilled and filed out a hole for the actual funnel, but it's barely noticeable...I cut and stained a 6mm x .5mm piece of lime for the base and wrapped some pinstripe tape around it to simulate an iron band that Goodwin shows just below the outlet. Here it is.
 

 
I was a little worried about the pumps but they ended up not being too difficult to make. I used 2mm x 2mm lime, with a section filed out at the end for the pump bracket, and 3mm x .5mm lime (shaped) for the handle. Here is a shot of some of these parts beside the kit-supplied metal part.
 

 
I used a 4mm dowel for the pump barrel. I drilled a hole in the side for the spout, which I made from a piece of brass rod. I drilled another hole in the top and painted the interior black to simulate a well. A bit of pin stripe tape wrapped around the top simulates an iron band, and a small piece of wire set in the well and propping up the handle completed the assembly. Here is a comparison with the Corel part....
 

 
....and here are mine installed on deck....
 

 

 
hamilton

The galley stack was quite straightforward. I constructed it out of a single 3mm x 3mm strip of lime, shaped according to the drawings in Goodwin and painted black. I drilled and filed out a hole for the actual funnel, but it's barely noticeable...I cut and stained a 6mm x .5mm piece of lime for the base and wrapped some pinstripe tape around it to simulate an iron band that Goodwin shows just below the outlet. Here it is.
 

 
I was a little worried about the pumps but they ended up not being too difficult to make. I used 2mm x 2mm lime, with a section filed out at the end for the pump bracket, and 3mm x .5mm lime (shaped) for the handle. Here is a shot of some of these parts beside the kit-supplied metal part.
 

 
I used a 4mm dowel for the pump barrel. I drilled a hole in the side for the spout, which I made from a piece of brass rod. I drilled another hole in the top and painted the interior black to simulate a well. A bit of pin stripe tape wrapped around the top simulates an iron band, and a small piece of wire set in the well and propping up the handle completed the assembly. Here is a comparison with the Corel part....
 

 
....and here are mine installed on deck....
 

 

 
hamilton

Well I have a couple of updates - one documenting the bridle port lids and the other documenting the galley stack and the elm tree pumps. Here goes.
 
The bridle port lids consist of 2 layers of planking - a horizontal (outboard) layer consisting of 2 6mm x 1.5mm lime and a vertical (inboard) layer consisting of 3mm x .5mm lime, painted red. Here are a few shots of the process.
 

 

 
It took a bit of filing to get the port lid to fit, but eventually I got it....
 

 
I bevelled the inboard layer of planking and added a ring bolt in the lower centre. I also used 1/16" pinstripe tape and blackened brass wire to simulate the hinges and hinge pins outboard - they're a little large for scale....
 
Here's the finished product.
 

 
hamilton
 
 

The galley stack was quite straightforward. I constructed it out of a single 3mm x 3mm strip of lime, shaped according to the drawings in Goodwin and painted black. I drilled and filed out a hole for the actual funnel, but it's barely noticeable...I cut and stained a 6mm x .5mm piece of lime for the base and wrapped some pinstripe tape around it to simulate an iron band that Goodwin shows just below the outlet. Here it is.
 

 
I was a little worried about the pumps but they ended up not being too difficult to make. I used 2mm x 2mm lime, with a section filed out at the end for the pump bracket, and 3mm x .5mm lime (shaped) for the handle. Here is a shot of some of these parts beside the kit-supplied metal part.
 

 
I used a 4mm dowel for the pump barrel. I drilled a hole in the side for the spout, which I made from a piece of brass rod. I drilled another hole in the top and painted the interior black to simulate a well. A bit of pin stripe tape wrapped around the top simulates an iron band, and a small piece of wire set in the well and propping up the handle completed the assembly. Here is a comparison with the Corel part....
 

 
....and here are mine installed on deck....
 

 

 
hamilton

Well I have a couple of updates - one documenting the bridle port lids and the other documenting the galley stack and the elm tree pumps. Here goes.
 
The bridle port lids consist of 2 layers of planking - a horizontal (outboard) layer consisting of 2 6mm x 1.5mm lime and a vertical (inboard) layer consisting of 3mm x .5mm lime, painted red. Here are a few shots of the process.
 

 

 
It took a bit of filing to get the port lid to fit, but eventually I got it....
 

 
I bevelled the inboard layer of planking and added a ring bolt in the lower centre. I also used 1/16" pinstripe tape and blackened brass wire to simulate the hinges and hinge pins outboard - they're a little large for scale....
 
Here's the finished product.
 

 
hamilton