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FlounderFillet5

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About FlounderFillet5

  • Birthday 03/27/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ormond Beach, FL
  • Interests
    Building things, model ship building, flying RC Helicopters, video games, fishing, firearms, hunting(well, getting into this... hopefully I will bag something this Fall/Winter)

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  1. In my experience, I didn't normally get a response, but a package with the requested parts just showed up a handful of days later. I would wait a week or so to see if they arrive in the mail before purchasing elsewhere. Is there another part of the build you can work on in the meantime? Maybe a lifeboat or similar to keep you occupied while you wait? I hope this helps and good luck getting it resolved!
  2. Thanks Wayne, and Happy New Year to you as well! Upon a close (not that it needed to be that close) inspection a few days ago, I noticed that the garboard strake was very wavy and wouldn't be able to be resolved with some sanding as I originally thought. I decided to tear the planking out and restart on it. This took some very careful chisel work to maintain the sharp edges on the keel. I have seen people mention that they have the set of mini tools from veritas and basically never use the chisel set, but I have found them to be very helpful in the nibbi
  3. Also keep in mind that you can get more eye bolts for free from model expo if you just contact them for replacement parts. They will send the same ones you received in your kit to you and they will not charge you for them. That is one great thing that Model Expo does, their warrantee is fantastic.
  4. Time for another update, got a little work done over the New Years holiday. I lined out the hull and started laying my first hull planks ever. I think I mentioned this in my previous post, but I am using Swiss Pear for the hull planking below the waterline as well as for the keel, stern post, and (eventually) the rudder. Also note that I added a strip of Swiss Pear to the false keel where the planking will butt up to the sides. I do realize that the majority of this will be above the waterline, so they will be ebony planks butting up against it, but I think it will look fine with the Swiss Pe
  5. Hey everyone, Wanted to come back for another quick update on milling the wood for the planking portion of this build which will get us just about caught up. I started with rough boards of swiss pear and american holly, and then the castello boxwood and malagasy ebony both came from Gilmor wood company and they provide blanks that are fairly flat and square, which is pretty convenient, but an expensive convenience. Anyway, I am getting an error when uploading pictures of the rough stock and planing process, but I used one of my block planes to plane the rough boards. I do have
  6. Hello again, It has been far too long since my last update and I am glad to say that my schedule finally calmed down enough to make some progress on this build. I have been having a great time with this build, although, fairing... and fairing... and more fairing! I am hoping it has been enough on the fairing front, but we will soon find that out. First, I needed to attach the bulkheads to the false keel. I wanted to do my best to get these as square as possible, so I used some small squares and clamps to accomplish that. Here are a few different views of the setup
  7. Ulises, I'm not sure if they are still in business, but I did see that Model Expo recently started selling Proxxon tools, not sure how the prices compare, but something to keep in mind for us modelers in the States.
  8. Thanks everyone for the informative posts! Bill, that is interesting, I have never seen end grain flooring, but I absolutely love my home made end grain cutting board I made with scrap cutoffs! Very durable in that configuration, but like you said, I don't think end grain would be suitable for planking the hull haha.
  9. Thank you both for the replies! To clarify, I am currently working at 1/48 scale, but plan on doing 1/64 going forward. The species in question are Swiss pear and Castello boxwood, the boxwood is what I was looking at primarily when I asked the question, but I'll probably use Swiss pear below the waterline and boxwood above it, with ebony for the wales. I plan on using Holly for the decks, but I don't think it matters much for the ebony or Holly, only the pear and boxwood.
  10. Hey everyone, Quick question about milling my own planks. I have some different species of wood that I would like to mill into planks, but I'm unsure of which face to cut them from. I have already searched and I feel as though I've gotten some conflicting information. For example and explanation going forward, I have wood that is 2" x 4", so the 2" side has very straight grain and is the edge and the 4" side is more wavy in its grain pattern and is the face. I would like to end up with 1/8" x 1/16" planks. Some people say to cut the boards that will be ripped into planks from fac
  11. Just wondering what diameter of round brass stock I'll need to turn the cannons for the Syren kit. Also, how long is each one?
  12. Ahoy there! This is the beginning of my build log of the Model Shipways Benjamin Latham POB kit. DISCLAIMER: This is my first POB kit, so this is not the place to come to learn best practices, but maybe I can offer a little insight between my stumbling through like a blindfolded elephant in a china shop! It's been a while since I have been active on this forum, but now I have my degree, have a job, have an extra bedroom to set up my workshop, and have a little extra time to do some modelling. Many many big life events ago, I had a build log for the Model Shipways Pilo
  13. Clever idea! Thanks for sharing, I will certainly make use of this tip in the future.
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