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Haze Gray

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  1. Haze Gray
    Hello all, just an update - all I've printed all the major components I'm starting down the path of putting together the assemblies and getting things ready for painting. Here I'm gluing the 3 parts of the spar deck together - the kitchen is a great place to do so since the granite countertop is quite flat and there's a wide variety of heavy objects that I can use to hold things in place .... while the epoxy is curing I can also make a sandwich so kitchens are a real win-win scenario in my opinion! and finally the completed part:
  2. Haze Gray
    Hello Dancooper - at some point in the near future I'll make the STL's available - the USS Maine was the first ship I modeled and it could use some cleaning up + a build guide. I'll try to work on it over the next few months and will reach out to if/when I am able to release it. in 1/72 scale the hull parts are fairly big - a 3d printer bed size of at least 280mm X 280mm Y and 250mm Z is recommended. what kind of printer do you have?
  3. Haze Gray
    Yes, my knees are being "utilized" but at the moment I'm just placing parts one by one - so they only take abuse for 15-30 seconds.... My knees are in fairly good 'nick' but I still take it easy.
  4. Haze Gray
    So, I really like how unique the French armaments are - here's the Canon de 65 mm Modèle 1891 - love it! I can't design it exactly per its real configuration since even with resin printing some accommodations need to be made but happy with the result. The Charles Martel had four of these on board.
  5. Haze Gray
    Hi Wefalck - I will say that it's a lot easier to make mistakes in CAD but also much faster to correct them in CAD - sometimes I don't notice a problem until I actually print out the parts and realize they don't fit/look like they should... While I've never had to re-print a hull (thank God) everything from the deck up has a strong chance that I'll need to re-print after correcting/modifying them. I think that with a complete set of plans and traditional construction techniques could be just as fast or faster than what I'm doing. While I've created 973 Bodies in fusion many have been combined so by my count, I've only actually printed out 112 thus far. Here's what the Charles Martel looks like at this stage....
  6. Haze Gray
    Thanks Lou - I think the term masochist applies in my instance 😃
  7. Haze Gray
    I've been keeping the printers busy......... but I think I have about 100+ more parts to design and print (at least)...
  8. Haze Gray
    I'm impressed that you got that support structure printed without supports! Well done! Looking forward to seeing the upper deck take shape too.
  9. Haze Gray
    Thought I would provide an update on the Charles Martel - been busy studying lots of photos since there's a lack of complete drawings (especially for structures above the deck). Happy to report that I am starting to understand a lot more about the ship and making changes that the cad model reflects. Still much to do but here's a look at the actual model progress thus far:
  10. Haze Gray
    Hi Dr. Per - yes I'll write something up with some photos - no printing yet on it (printers are busy with Charles Martel parts). If I remember correctly - there's a connection between the USS Baltimore and a famous inventor from Sweden
  11. Haze Gray
    Well I did kind of forge ahead and got the hull created in Fusion 360. To be honest each hull has it's own problems to solve - here's the model with some details show as to the frames and rails that I put in to make it as smooth as possible.
  12. Haze Gray
    Thanks JReeves - good to hear from another tumble home adorer! A 1/96th static model would be 2 inches shy of 4 feet long and ~ 8 inches wide. This is something I could probably print but I need to make some adjustments to the model. I'm going to be moving to a new place so 2-3 months before I even get things setup to make an attempt at that scale. I do have her sister ships in mind to do as well (Messena, Brennus, Bouvet, Jaureberry, and Carnot (yes...Carnot!.... this one will be huge challenge!).
  13. Haze Gray
    Back when you were having extrusion issues I was thinking it could due to not enough pressure on the filament and it might be slipping - but looking at the distortion on the gear maybe you had it screwed down extremely tight..... but I've never seen plastic filament actually deform metal - that a first for sure!
  14. Haze Gray
    Thank you Steven, some of those pictures I had but some were new to me - many thanks for the link (every photo helps!!).
  15. Haze Gray
    Some truly amazing work here Richard! My hat's off to you for tackling a project this big - I can't wait to see it finished and in the water!!! What have you been using to laser cut the wood parts?
  16. Haze Gray
    If I was restricted to only one type of printer I'd have to chose FDM (but luckily I don't have to make that choice!) . You can get some pretty astonishing results with FDM nozzles that are sub 0.4mm - I've use 0.3mm before and it's big difference in the amount of detail you can resolve. There's still a lot of development in the FMD space - E3D is developing a nozzle change system that's a lot like swapping an air tool https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/rapidchangerevo so going for 0.4mm to 0.3 or smaller could be a very fast change. Don't get me wrong though, if there was an affordable SLA machine that had 1500mm Z and 300x300 build plate I'd have one - but I can't see ever fully ditching FDM for SLA entirely based of the type of models that I print. Changing materials (PLA to ABS) on a FDM is quick and painless compared to changing to a different resin for SLA. SLS seems like it would have most of the benefits of both SLA and FDM but oh my - that's getting into really expensive territory.
  17. Haze Gray
    I already use somewhere between 4-7mm (sometimes more) for the mating surface. Rather than a flange along the entire length of the edge I use a reinforced flange but only in specific areas.
  18. Haze Gray
    Kevin, overall how well are those square locating pins working for you? Originally when I started designing hulls for 3D printing I decided not to use them since I wanted a solution that both located and applied some clamping pressure - I use a kind of socket on either side of the hull sections to join and clamping tabs when mating them.
  19. Haze Gray
    Kevin, for me 99% of the time I keep history on in Fusion 360 - so if I discover an error in my work I can attempt to go back and fix/change it. Sometimes that's works great, and sometimes it also drives downstream effects and completely wreck things ...but it does provide a chance. Sometimes I'll save a particular state and then remove the history and save as a separate version and carry on from there. It's all personal choice of course....
  20. Haze Gray
    Count me in on the Rhino session as well (whether live or video). Question on Rhino - is it mostly just for modeling or does is also have a workspace similar to F360 & SW? When I'm working on a model for 3d printing there's a lot of tools that I use to align, cut, combine, offset, etc on solids. F360 isn't the best when it comes to the creating the model but it feels pretty strong in the CAD arena.
  21. Haze Gray
    Hi Egilman, Kevin probably has the best idea for attempting this in fusion 360 - using 3d sketch to draw a spline and manipulate the control points to get the right angle and curve but that could be little messy/time consuming but could be made to work. Since I really only design ships based off frame/hull lines I don't have any meaningful experience doing a hull without them.
  22. Haze Gray
    Hi Egilman Is this boat something that you will also be 3D printing? looks like it would really be a treat to run (and fast) on the water for sure!
  23. Haze Gray
    Egilman's description of calibrating the drawing to known dimensions is a very good writeup. One challenge that may present itself is when you don't have perpendicular lines to calibrate. Since I do a lot of older ships where the plans are rough and don't show reasonable detail down the the individual frames or the only available reliable measurement is LOA (length over all) or the two extremes of the ship are at different elevation (stern high and bow low) drawing a calibration line at an angle won't get you the right size. I've also found that (for me) it's hard to draw that calibration line perfectly horizonal which can impact accuracy.
  24. Haze Gray
    First time printing the Ram I had problems - the raft was truly fused to that laser etched build plate - worked way too good plus I hadn't really dialed down my exposure settings so it came out essentially fully cured- despite all the razor blades and other sharp metal tools I used that sent brittle pieces flying it took me 20 minutes to clean off that build plate essentially ***zero damage*** and I was not being careful at all. Adjusted my settings and used the original build pate I got with the printer and the ram print worked out just fine even if I had gone way overboard on the support.... so much easier to get off the build plate with just a razor blade and only just a few seconds. does appear that the MonoX can print holes that are under 0.5mm diameter where as the Photon S I had to use .8mm and up
  25. Haze Gray
    Hello Max, when you are ready please share your you version of the Charles Martel - I will be happy to see how you design it and hopefully it will be more accurate than what I have ! - I really wish there more information available on this ship. Here's another French Ship relaxing on the table waiting for more parts.....

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