AndyMech

The last two weekends have been spent on the outside hull - painting and coppering.
 
First: painting.  I prepped the hull with 3 coats of wipe-on-poly (WOP) sanding in between each coat with 400 grit sandpaper.  The first two coats must have soaked into the wood, as the poly was evident, but not very thick. The last coat provided the base that I expected - it was a very different feel to the wood after that one.
 
I used acrylic paint - ModelMaster Acryl (left over from my Revell Constitution), and I thinned it down quite a bit with plain water.  The plan was to put on as many thin coats as needed to get good coverage while still hoping the wood grain would show through a bit.  I did the black first, then masked it off with Tamiya tape and then painted the white.
 
Here are the results.
 

 

 
Next was the bottom of the hull - copper.  The kit provided a bunch of wood pieces that are a mottled green -  I think they are going for the weathered patina that copper will eventually take.  I wanted to practice coppering with copper tape instead.
 
First, I found some nice 3/16" wide (about 4mm) tape with adhesive backing from a local stained glass hobby shop.
 

 
I cut a whole lot of 15mm long strips from the roll and put them on one-by-one, overlapping from stern to bow, up keel to deck.  This took a lot longer than I thought it would - both the cutting and placing.  I used a pencil erasure to rub them onto the wood (at first I used a hobby knife handle, but that left a lot of creases on the tape - which are still evident on some plates near the keel).
 
After it was all done, I gave it a cleaning using lemon juice and salt - that worked really really well - removed all fingerprints and tarnish that had already started to appear and I didn't have to go out and buy a commercial polish or use acetone (which is nasty smelling).
 
(This first photo is prior to cleaning with lemon juice):

 
(This is interesting - how I secured the hull for the coppering process.  I had already installed the hammock netting, so couldn't rest the hull on the table top.  I inserted the main mast into the hull, and clamped it upside down using my keel clamp.  Worked very well - I could still rotate the hull toward me to get the angles I needed to get the tape on.)

 

 
Next up is finishing the ballast in the lower hull - painting barrels, adding rocks, etc.  Then, I think, starting on the mast and spars.
 
Andy.

This weekend was dedicated to cannon creation. I glued and painted the 6 bow cannons, the 16 stern cannons and the single bow chaser cannon. 
 

 
Typical cannon:

 
Bow chaser:

 
 
With the guns painted, I thought I would install one of the forward guns. The instructions say to "tie or seize" the gun to the eyebolts using the large diameter tan thread.

I did some reading on seizing, both in this forum and Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified". I thought I would try the method of tieing a half-hitch, creating a loop, wrapping around the loop and finally threading it through and pulling both ends tight. I use a small drop of CA to hold the initial half-hitch.

It took about 1/2 hour to do one gun - two seizings. The first went ok, as the gun was not yet in the way. The second was tougher due to the gun and probably my waning patience.


Before I continue with the other 5 forward guns (and possibly the remaining 16 guns to the rear), I thought I would see if there were any tips, hints or just "more practice" comments. The second seizing (see photo below) didn't come out as smooth - I probably was unable to get it to lie flat, but still looks ok, I hope. 
 

More progress this weekend - lots of snow here, so not any distractions.
 
I made the ladder on both sides of the hull - the kit provides 3x3mm right angle wood, which I cut into 10mm lengths, sanded off the square corners and glued into place with 1mm spacing in between.
 

 

 
Next, I blackened the braces for the hammock netting and the end-pieces.  Those, I also painted a bit of the highlight.  I used black tulle for the hammock netting, like on my last Connie, and I still think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 

 

 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

More progress this weekend - lots of snow here, so not any distractions.
 
I made the ladder on both sides of the hull - the kit provides 3x3mm right angle wood, which I cut into 10mm lengths, sanded off the square corners and glued into place with 1mm spacing in between.
 

 

 
Next, I blackened the braces for the hammock netting and the end-pieces.  Those, I also painted a bit of the highlight.  I used black tulle for the hammock netting, like on my last Connie, and I still think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 

 

 
Andy.

More progress this weekend - lots of snow here, so not any distractions.
 
I made the ladder on both sides of the hull - the kit provides 3x3mm right angle wood, which I cut into 10mm lengths, sanded off the square corners and glued into place with 1mm spacing in between.
 

 

 
Next, I blackened the braces for the hammock netting and the end-pieces.  Those, I also painted a bit of the highlight.  I used black tulle for the hammock netting, like on my last Connie, and I still think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 

 

 
Andy.

More progress this weekend - lots of snow here, so not any distractions.
 
I made the ladder on both sides of the hull - the kit provides 3x3mm right angle wood, which I cut into 10mm lengths, sanded off the square corners and glued into place with 1mm spacing in between.
 

 

 
Next, I blackened the braces for the hammock netting and the end-pieces.  Those, I also painted a bit of the highlight.  I used black tulle for the hammock netting, like on my last Connie, and I still think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 

 

 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

Today's update seems small, but took me all Sunday afternoon.  I added the deck supports for the first deck:
 

 

 
Then, I added the mast support base and the framing through the deck rails, making sure all was straight and true.
 

 

 
I'll add ballast (probably small rocks) and barrels after more is complete.  Next up very well might be planking the first deck!  But at my pace, let's not get ahead of myself.
 
Thanks for watching.
 
Andy.

Wow, it's really been a long time since I last updated.  Holidays, vacations, illness (a really bad cold) have all prevented my progress.  But, I'm getting back to it.
 
First, I noticed that I had forgotten to put in the deck supports for the 2nd deck, and when I test fitted them, the barrels I had so carefully glued in were in the way.  So, I learned how to de-bond my PVA (Titebond) with a little isopropyl alcohol, I was able to remove enough barrels to get them installed.
 
Next, was the deck planking.  The center is planked with 6 2x4 (mm) walnut planks and another mast hole needs to be created.  I did it half-by-half, carefully laying the first plank to make sure it's centered and orthogonal, then using that as a guide for the other.
 


After the first half circle was carved out and mast test fitted, just repeat on the other side.
 

 
The rest of the planks are then added.  Unlike the lower deck, I wanted to add the "butt joints", but like I said in my earlier post, I was concerned about doing it exactly on the framing pieces as they didn't line up and I didn't want to have a joint over open space.
 
So, I merely used pencil to mark the lines after deciding on the spacing pattern.  I also chose to not do treenails after some debate (with myself anyway).  I don't have a small enough drill bit, so I skipped that for now.
 


 
Next up, I'm planking the bulwarks and I added the mast ring supports.  Those were a soft metal that I blackened.  If you remember (and who would?), I had issues with flaking on my last blackening attempt, so this time I diluted the solution (1 part water, 1 part solution) and took more care cleaning the rings.  It worked out so much better - no flaking in solution, and a nice even black color.
 

I got the furniture on deck one glued on - a combination of PVA with poked holes for the wood stuff and CA for the metal buckets.
 

 

 
I also put in the gun deck supports and mortised the mast hole.  Next up will be to plank this deck.
 

 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

I did the pin rails, both the one surrounding the mast and some side cleats.  Overall, I found this to be easy (must be learning something), if I go slow and careful.
 
The more difficult part was drilling the larger holes in the pin rail supports - the wood wanted to splinter.  I ended up sanding down the 2mm dowel so it would fit in the 1.5 mm hole I prepared.  I also found the need to file down every one of the pins so I didn't force them into the 1mm holes I drilled.  If forced, the would crack the wood in two.
 
I used a bit of diluted white glue to "secure" the pins - just enough so they don't fall out - the lines should hold them in just fine.
 
And, finally, I realize the white metal of the pins probably isn't the right color.  I could, I suppose, paint them a wood color, but perhaps the lines, once belayed, will cover them up pretty well.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who's looked and commented - I really do appreciate it, even if I don't have time to respond individually.
 
Andy.

Next step in the instructions is to glue 34 eyebolts to various positions along the hull. Previously I had made the decision to make my own from 26 gauge beading wire, so I spent the day making them. I thought I would document the process for anyone who's interested. 
 
I cut 34 lengths of wire approx 4cm or 1.5 inches long

 
I loop each wire around a pin vise bit, chosen to give a good sized, but not too large, "eye"

 
34 loops ready for twisting.

 
To twist, I secure the loop with needle nose pliers and use my fingers to twist each of the two ends equally

 
All twisted and ready for trimming

 
Trimmed up and ready for dry fit

 
Glued into the stern:
 

 
 

I'm a little behind in the updates, so I'll post a couple of replies to get caught up on the progress.
 
I had finished the gun deck planking and added the mast support ring.  Next up were the cannons/carriages.
 
I deviated from the instructions a bit.  First, I painted the carriages red, like on my Revell Constitution.  I also decided to add breech ropes, but not pulleys.  At this smaller scale, I didn't feel I had the skill, nor the model have the space to add both.  I used a large tan thread that the kit intended (I think) for the shrouds.  Shrouds should be black, so I ordered some nice thread from the Syren ship co.  That left this nice tan for the cannon breechings.
 
Also, the kit was short 4 of the wheel assemblies for the cannons, so I fabricated them from some dowels.  Once they were painted black, I doubt anyone can tell.
 
The cannons themselves, I attempted to blacken, but they utterly failed - I'm guessing they are aluminum or steel.  I sanded off the lousy blacken attempt and just painted them.
 




 

To finish off the gun deck, I added the pumps.  These were blackened, mostly successfully but I find the black tends to rub off pretty easily, leaving shiny bits.  That happened as I assembled the pumps - putting the rods through the holes.  I used a bit of touch up paint to hide the worst of the scraped off bits.
 

 

Yesterday, started work on the top deck.  I had previously laid the supports, so I framed the hatchway, then planked the rest.
 
I again made a paper template for where the mast hole should be, and after the deck was laid, cut out the circle and added the mast ring.
 
Finally, today, I added breech ropes for the guns on this level.  I'll leave these black instead of red as they were pre-painted by Mamoli (not the greatest reason, but they look ok to me this color).
 

 

 

 

Thanks John.  The wood vs. plastic is an interesting contrast - different skills required for sure.  I had virtually no wood experience after my Revell, so I made the canoe (you can see in the first page) as a training.
 
I'm finding the most mistakes I'm making are symmetrical - the center line where the mast goes, down to the keel is not exactly center with the bulwarks - sometimes I'm off by as much as 2-3mm.  It emphasizes the need to really be careful when putting the frames together.  I thought I was doing it correctly, on the plans, etc., but I guess not.  The good news is, I can cover up and adjust for the errors with the deck planking and I don't think it's overly visible, even to the expert eyes MSW provides.  (If anyone has noticed, I am prepared to be highly impressed).  
 
I'm expecting that plank-on-bulwark will be easier to keep centered, as I will probably do that type of ship next (whether it's the Syren or a smaller ship, I don't know yet).
 
Andy.

Yesterday, started work on the top deck.  I had previously laid the supports, so I framed the hatchway, then planked the rest.
 
I again made a paper template for where the mast hole should be, and after the deck was laid, cut out the circle and added the mast ring.
 
Finally, today, I added breech ropes for the guns on this level.  I'll leave these black instead of red as they were pre-painted by Mamoli (not the greatest reason, but they look ok to me this color).
 

 

 

 

Wow, it's really been a long time since I last updated.  Holidays, vacations, illness (a really bad cold) have all prevented my progress.  But, I'm getting back to it.
 
First, I noticed that I had forgotten to put in the deck supports for the 2nd deck, and when I test fitted them, the barrels I had so carefully glued in were in the way.  So, I learned how to de-bond my PVA (Titebond) with a little isopropyl alcohol, I was able to remove enough barrels to get them installed.
 
Next, was the deck planking.  The center is planked with 6 2x4 (mm) walnut planks and another mast hole needs to be created.  I did it half-by-half, carefully laying the first plank to make sure it's centered and orthogonal, then using that as a guide for the other.
 


After the first half circle was carved out and mast test fitted, just repeat on the other side.
 

 
The rest of the planks are then added.  Unlike the lower deck, I wanted to add the "butt joints", but like I said in my earlier post, I was concerned about doing it exactly on the framing pieces as they didn't line up and I didn't want to have a joint over open space.
 
So, I merely used pencil to mark the lines after deciding on the spacing pattern.  I also chose to not do treenails after some debate (with myself anyway).  I don't have a small enough drill bit, so I skipped that for now.
 


 
Next up, I'm planking the bulwarks and I added the mast ring supports.  Those were a soft metal that I blackened.  If you remember (and who would?), I had issues with flaking on my last blackening attempt, so this time I diluted the solution (1 part water, 1 part solution) and took more care cleaning the rings.  It worked out so much better - no flaking in solution, and a nice even black color.
 

Wow, it's really been a long time since I last updated.  Holidays, vacations, illness (a really bad cold) have all prevented my progress.  But, I'm getting back to it.
 
First, I noticed that I had forgotten to put in the deck supports for the 2nd deck, and when I test fitted them, the barrels I had so carefully glued in were in the way.  So, I learned how to de-bond my PVA (Titebond) with a little isopropyl alcohol, I was able to remove enough barrels to get them installed.
 
Next, was the deck planking.  The center is planked with 6 2x4 (mm) walnut planks and another mast hole needs to be created.  I did it half-by-half, carefully laying the first plank to make sure it's centered and orthogonal, then using that as a guide for the other.
 


After the first half circle was carved out and mast test fitted, just repeat on the other side.
 

 
The rest of the planks are then added.  Unlike the lower deck, I wanted to add the "butt joints", but like I said in my earlier post, I was concerned about doing it exactly on the framing pieces as they didn't line up and I didn't want to have a joint over open space.
 
So, I merely used pencil to mark the lines after deciding on the spacing pattern.  I also chose to not do treenails after some debate (with myself anyway).  I don't have a small enough drill bit, so I skipped that for now.
 


 
Next up, I'm planking the bulwarks and I added the mast ring supports.  Those were a soft metal that I blackened.  If you remember (and who would?), I had issues with flaking on my last blackening attempt, so this time I diluted the solution (1 part water, 1 part solution) and took more care cleaning the rings.  It worked out so much better - no flaking in solution, and a nice even black color.