AndyMech

I found an easy way to melt the beeswax on my line was to simply fill a water glass with near boiling water.  Coat your line with wax by running it over the wax cake, then run the line against the glass that's been filled with the boiling water.  Beeswax melts at a low temperature and the water-heated glass is plenty hot enough to melt the wax into the line.  With the scarcity of incandescent bulbs (at least in our house), this seems like an easy solution.  Plus, you're not staring into a bright light or worrying about burning the thread with a lighter.
 
I did end up with streaks of wax on the glass, but it washes right off.
 
Andy.

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.
 



 

I found an easy way to melt the beeswax on my line was to simply fill a water glass with near boiling water.  Coat your line with wax by running it over the wax cake, then run the line against the glass that's been filled with the boiling water.  Beeswax melts at a low temperature and the water-heated glass is plenty hot enough to melt the wax into the line.  With the scarcity of incandescent bulbs (at least in our house), this seems like an easy solution.  Plus, you're not staring into a bright light or worrying about burning the thread with a lighter.
 
I did end up with streaks of wax on the glass, but it washes right off.
 
Andy.

I found an easy way to melt the beeswax on my line was to simply fill a water glass with near boiling water.  Coat your line with wax by running it over the wax cake, then run the line against the glass that's been filled with the boiling water.  Beeswax melts at a low temperature and the water-heated glass is plenty hot enough to melt the wax into the line.  With the scarcity of incandescent bulbs (at least in our house), this seems like an easy solution.  Plus, you're not staring into a bright light or worrying about burning the thread with a lighter.
 
I did end up with streaks of wax on the glass, but it washes right off.
 
Andy.

I found an easy way to melt the beeswax on my line was to simply fill a water glass with near boiling water.  Coat your line with wax by running it over the wax cake, then run the line against the glass that's been filled with the boiling water.  Beeswax melts at a low temperature and the water-heated glass is plenty hot enough to melt the wax into the line.  With the scarcity of incandescent bulbs (at least in our house), this seems like an easy solution.  Plus, you're not staring into a bright light or worrying about burning the thread with a lighter.
 
I did end up with streaks of wax on the glass, but it washes right off.
 
Andy.

Thanks to Bender (and with his permission) I have put together as brief video about how to rig a block to a spar, mast or gaff.
I hope this may be of some use to you.
 

I spent the weekend working on the vertical stanchions and starting on the lower deck work.
 
Here are the stanchions - used a weighted bit of string to find the vertical lines, then just sanded to length and glued in.
 

 
Next up was framing the hatch - the plans called for mitered joints, so I made cuts at 45-degree angle using a lego as a guide.  I glued in the outside frame, then added the slats (I guess the hatch is closed, eventually a ladder is placed on it):
 

 
Finally, I started on the deck planking.  I thought it would be very straightforward, but I have some questions.  First, here's how it stands right now:
 

 
I used a #2 pencil to mark the ends of one plank for caulking, which I think is ok looking.
 
The questions I have are:  I see in the plans that each plank doesn't run the full length - like most decks, the planks are staggered and should have butt-joints at periodic locations.  How, generally, do folks do this?  Do you cut the planks the lengths the joints demand, or can one simulate it by scoring a line?  I hesitated to cut them to the shorter lengths as I wondered how folks get them to line up properly?
 
Finally, you can see in the last photo, there is small gap on the left of the hatch and an even smaller one on the right side.  What's the best way to fill these?  My approach to date has been to try to cut a length of planking so narrow that it fits in there, but the right side one is no more than a sliver!  I really would appreciate some advice for fixing this, and I'm sure similar situations will come up on the next two decks - how do I avoid this for the future and how do I fix this now?
 
I found measuring the distance from the edge of the deck to the hatch should have left 3mm or so, and with a 4mm plank, I should have had a bigger gap.  But after the planks are laid, they must take up more room, or the planks aren't exactly 4mm, so I've got a very small gap instead.
 
I also must not have centered the hatch properly, or the keel isn't dead center - either way something is off and I'd like to fix the deck planking.
 
Andy.

After finishing my first wooden build, I decided to take a step backwards and build the Revell Viking Ship, since it was a gift by my wife and she would be upset if I didn't attempt it. I did already start the kit and figured, why not do a build log?
 

 

 
 
One thing I did want to try with a plastic build again was to make the plastic look like real wood (I always admired other plastic models that accomplished this). I did the method of spraying a tan under coat, but instead of dry brushing and washing with browns and blacks, I applied a stain lightly over the already molded wood grain, and so far I like the results. The only negative to this approach was the amount of time it takes for the stain to fully dry and cure on the plastic undercoat (several days).
 

 
 

 
I'm currently at the step of undercoating the deck, and will be applying two seperate stains to differentiate the crossbeams from the deck baords.
 

I got the furniture on deck one glued on - a combination of PVA with poked holes for the wood stuff and CA for the metal buckets.
 

 

 
I also put in the gun deck supports and mortised the mast hole.  Next up will be to plank this deck.
 

 
Andy.

I got the furniture on deck one glued on - a combination of PVA with poked holes for the wood stuff and CA for the metal buckets.
 

 

 
I also put in the gun deck supports and mortised the mast hole.  Next up will be to plank this deck.
 

 
Andy.

Thanks for the tool links guys.  I must have missed that post from Augie (even did a search before I asked the question).  Very useful to me, as I have none of this stuff and struggle to get nice cuts.  Combining these miter ideas with the true sander sounds like it'll make my life easier for not much expense.
 
I've got an on-going bookmark folder of tool links which makes it easy to hint, hint to anyone at home willing to buy my Christmas gifts. 
 
Andy

That's a great explanation - and I went back to look at your log and I understand better how you did it.  My mast was mortised as well, but using the template in combination with starting the hole a little small worked well for me.  I also found (but didn't photograph) a plastic circle template of exactly the right size to help make the hole a perfect circle, which I could not do free-hand.
 
Your technique of doing half at time is nice as the mortise can still be seen to make sure all is being lined up - that's a nice benefit.
 
Thanks again,
 
Andy.

So, I was solved the issue of making the mast hole.  Before planking the rest of the deck, I made a paper template of where the mast should go in relation to the hatch.  After the planking, I placed the template back on the deck, and used a pencil to mark the location of the hole.  Using my pin vise, I drilled a bunch of holes, removed the majority of wood and sanded to fit.
 
(It has the word "good" on it because the first one was off a little bit, so I marked the good one)

 

 

 

 

 

 

I planked the outside of my cross section this weekend.  Since I plan on building the decks one by one, I can't plank the inside until after the deck supports for the top decks are in place.  I can plank the outside, however, so that's what I did.
 
Starting at the top of the bulwarks, I wanted to make sure the highlight pieces (3rd plank down) were lined up:
 

 
Then I added the cap rail piece.  In order to line up the initial planking, I had to place the shorter bulwark pieces up a little higher than the top of the internal, leaving a gap:
 

 
It looks a little sloppy, so I was thinking of filling the gap with a spare piece of wood or some wood filler.  Any ideas?
 
Then, ran the planking down the outside, following the directions:
 


 
It's not been sanded yet, so looks a little rough.  I plan on sanding, adding some wipe-on-poly and painting it black and white with a copper bottom.
 
Andy.
 

Today's update seems small, but took me all Sunday afternoon.  I added the deck supports for the first deck:
 

 

 
Then, I added the mast support base and the framing through the deck rails, making sure all was straight and true.
 

 

 
I'll add ballast (probably small rocks) and barrels after more is complete.  Next up very well might be planking the first deck!  But at my pace, let's not get ahead of myself.
 
Thanks for watching.
 
Andy.

Thanks for the ideas on keeping the stanchions straight.  I wish I had a laser line level, but it's hard to justify buying that, even the low-end stuff.  I've seen other build logs use them to mark the water line.  It would be cool though.
 
I used a mini-plumb bob to center the deck mast supports by just weighting a string over the keel line and letting it hang straight.  I could easily do the same for the stanchions.  Then it would just be a matter of sanding off just enough so they fit against the curved surfaces above and below.
 
Dave, the deck camber is part of the kit - they have a nice template of the curve that I copied and pinned the beam supports to and let them dry in place.  The build is fun as you get to do essentially all the ship without having to do each part 16 times.  The only thing it isn't really teaching me is full hull planking - there is no curve  or taper at all to the hull strips as it's mid-ship.  I did do some beveling, but that was trivial.
 
Andy. 

Thanks for the ideas on keeping the stanchions straight.  I wish I had a laser line level, but it's hard to justify buying that, even the low-end stuff.  I've seen other build logs use them to mark the water line.  It would be cool though.
 
I used a mini-plumb bob to center the deck mast supports by just weighting a string over the keel line and letting it hang straight.  I could easily do the same for the stanchions.  Then it would just be a matter of sanding off just enough so they fit against the curved surfaces above and below.
 
Dave, the deck camber is part of the kit - they have a nice template of the curve that I copied and pinned the beam supports to and let them dry in place.  The build is fun as you get to do essentially all the ship without having to do each part 16 times.  The only thing it isn't really teaching me is full hull planking - there is no curve  or taper at all to the hull strips as it's mid-ship.  I did do some beveling, but that was trivial.
 
Andy. 

Wow, it's been a long time since I've updated this log.
 
I've been spending much of my weekends building a display case for Revell Constitution - glass has been ordered, and I'm waiting for it to be ready.  Pictures of that will show up in the Revell's build log.
 
I did make some progress on the cross-section.
 
Planked the inner hull, below the first deck.

 
And added the supports for that deck.  

 
I'm planning on doing it deck by deck, based on some of the other cross section logs, so I will plank what I can from the keep upwards.
 
Next up is to place the mast support and plank the first deck.
 
Andy.

Today's update seems small, but took me all Sunday afternoon.  I added the deck supports for the first deck:
 

 

 
Then, I added the mast support base and the framing through the deck rails, making sure all was straight and true.
 

 

 
I'll add ballast (probably small rocks) and barrels after more is complete.  Next up very well might be planking the first deck!  But at my pace, let's not get ahead of myself.
 
Thanks for watching.
 
Andy.

Awesome price - I hope it's intact inside when you get it.
 
As for ideas - I wouldn't have posted to a build log if I wanted to keep them to myself.  Use them, extend them, combine with other people's ideas.  Go for it.
 
Andy.

I also glued on the cannon door covers as the instructions indicated and added the ropes to hold them.

Doesn't sound like a lot, but it took time, especially with 32 cannon doors to rig. 
 
Using pencils to achieve a uniform door position. Pencils were almost the right size for the door openings - the cards are there to ensure they are up against the upper frame and won't move during gluing.
 

 
The pencils holding the doors - this is either a dry fit or after gluing.

 
The pencils were removed after about 3 hours drying time. The results were a pretty uniform set of doors at a good angle.

 
All the ropes installed on one side of the ship

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.
 



 

Thanks everyone for the nice words - I'm very pleased the way it turned out.  Kim, I didn't even consider value from an insurance standpoint, thanks for the advice.
 
Now I can finally focus on my cross-section and eventually the Syren.
 
Andy.

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.
 



 

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.