CPDDET

33 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Curious about this.

 

Did you order via the Malco web site?

 

Home - Malco Saw Company

 

How did Martindale enter the picture?

I did order thru Malco, but Malco filled the order thru Martindale. Greg at Malco supplied the 2 names at Martindale for future orders. 

3 hours ago, niwotwill said:

Great information about how and where you got your bladed. With the two names listed I was unable to find how to contact them, could you explain how you were able to contact them?

How many blades did you have to order?

Thanks

 

I ordered thru Malco but it seems Malco filled the order thru Martindale. Greg, at Malco, supplied the two contact names at Martindale to be used for future orders.

Malco had a 3 or 4 blade minimum. Not sure if that will hold true at Martindale.

Can you give us a size ?

Finally received saw blades from Malco after a long wait. After thanking them I received this email.

"Dave ,You’re welcome. Martindale deserves the credit on this one.

On future quotes contact Bill Pavlik or Mike Jensen at Martindale Electric for pricing and delivery.

      Thanks, Greg"

Nice work! Welcome aboard. 

3 hours ago, wefalck said:

The problem is, that it only works for the set of diameters provide in the tool ...

True. It may work best for builds at a certain scale. Larger dowel drilling can be done in various other ways. But for some it may be a big time saver.

5 hours ago, Nirvana said:

Interesting tool, now that I have a mill this is some I would like to try to recreate.

Oh, by the way, did someone said, "we are suckers for tools"?🙂

Keep the rest of us mill owners posted on your efforts.

2 hours ago, Y.T. said:

I had not much success using a dowel plate on wood. I found no way to draw it through holes. It beaks if drawn or pushed through. May be I need to know some technics? How to draw the wood through the holes?

I'm sure there are examples on youtube. 

35 minutes ago, Y.T. said:

 This is cool tool. I would be especially interested in axial center drilling. Thinking over it I can see that to have a good centered hole I must use very accurately dimensioned round dowel stock. I measured my so called 4 mm dowels and they are all 3.87 mm. I have to put it into a groove marked as 4 mm DIA. The drilled hole will not be at axial center. I am afraid it will be very noticeable by the eye.

 

Would have to use a dowel plate first to assure the correct diameter. 

7 minutes ago, GGibson said:

Saw the same ad in the past few days on a Hobbyist Haven ad.  As CPDDET said, looks pretty cool, may be useful and, unfortunately, I'm a sucker for little things like this. 🤷‍♂️😅

Hard to resist, isn't it? I'm a tool addict.

https://hobbyisthaven.com/products/locator-for-coaxial-and-through-holes-drilling

Agreed! I used the NRG half hull model to gain experience. Had to do it twice but now feel pretty confident.  

Well, I finally finished up. Mistakes made? many! But more knowledge was gained than mistakes made. I now feel much more confident in my next build which will be a bit of a change.

I'm going to attempt my first scratch build. This will be Hemingway's fishing boat Pilar. But first it's off to Alaska for a weeks vacation. When I return Ill get started on that.

I can highly recommend this Nautical Research Guild kit to learn proper hull planking.

Dave

Plan is to stain the hull a warm oak. I had a few small gaps in the hull strakes that needed filling before staining. In order to make these as invisible as possible I did the following:

Using this filler that can be tinted with either oil or water base stains.

Placed some in a paper cup and, using a pipet, added my stain and mixed until I was happy with the color. A few hours to dry and then sand and stain.

Thought I would pass along a few new techniques, at least new to me.

First is this pre-stain which is very convenient as you sand before using, apply pre-stain, wipe off excess and then stain without further sanding. The only drawback is that you are limited to oil base stains.

 Here is a piece of basswood, sanded and pre-stain applied to the right side. While the right side is a bit lighter, a second coat could be applied. But much nicer looking grain.

I also discovered this wood filler that can be tinted with either oil or water base stains.

I'm using a warm oak oil stain to fill some small gaps on my hull. Placed some filler in a paper cup and used a pipet to add the stain and mixed well before using. While this wood fill will take stain as it comes, I find the tinting works even better. The filler is pure white.

Welcome aboard!

10 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Just look at build logs for Cheerful, Medway Longboat, and Winchelsea. Almost all built with AYC. 

I see what you mean. Thanks!

Thanks for relating your experience, Kurt.

8 hours ago, tlevine said:

Looks very nice.  Looking forward to seeing the final product.

Thanks! Not nearly as pretty as it could be but what a great learning tool! It has definitely added to my education and learning skills. Now I don't feel so lost or confused when it comes to hull planking. 

Thanks Chuck!

Absolutely beautiful workmanship on your models. 

In a few weeks I will begin my first scratch build of Hemingway's Pilar.While the hull will be painted, I really don't want to use basswood for the hull planking due to it being so soft and it's inability to hold crisp, sharp edges. And there's the "fuzzy" texture as well.

I certainly won't be using boxwood.

I was wondering about Alaskan Yellow Cedar. I see it's harder than basswood but softer than boxwood. 

I was wondering if anyone has experience with yellow cedar as to it's bending ability, both steam and edge, and if it cuts easily for spiling.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Dave

Been awhile since I last posted an update but I have been moving along. Planking is complete except for the second wale and the rails. Of course staining / panting will be the final step.

How well did it go? Not as professional as I would have liked but the kit did serve the purpose of teaching me the correct way to plank a hull and what spiling is all about. Only practice will improve the newly learned skill.

I will post when again the model is completely finished.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard!