Valeriy V
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Everything posted by Valeriy V
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Avoiding wrinkles is not difficult: 1) I make cuts in the fiberglass fabric as shown in the photo along the green lines before applying the resin 2) after applying the resin in small portions, I smooth it along with the fiberglass with a soft rubber spatula 3) in case the resin polymerizes too quickly, I have a construction hair dryer nearby with which I can heat the desired area of the resin and fiberglass to liquefy it
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For rivet head size calculations I show the German Lloyd chart. Circled in blue is the thickness of the cooable panel sheet that I choose. Green color is the required rivet diameter. As a result of a simple calculation, I get the dimensions of the rivet head for my model on a scale of 1:100 - diameter 0.3 mm and height 0.15 mm. Even if I can make such small details on the model, after covering with primer and paint they will simply visually disappear. Therefore, it makes no sense to show rivets on this model. But the belts of the outer hull plating sheets will be shown.
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It looks more interesting from the nasal angles.
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Then I sand the hull and bring it to this look.
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After the epoxy resin has dried, I cover the hull with liquid automotive putty using a spray gun.
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The hull of the model is covered with fiberglass with epoxy resin.
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Thanks Andy! All these photos show a process that lasted approximately two and a half months.
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Hello Nils! You have glorious maritime roots and it's an interesting story! The customer of Blagoev’s model is collecting his collection dedicated to the participation of the USSR in the Spanish Civil War.
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Yes that's right! Brass is much closer to the scale thickness of the bulwark. After covering the model's hull with a layer of fiberglass, the wooden strips will be removed from the inside of the bulwark.
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Thanks Phil! I impregnated the hull of the model with liquid resin only inside. It makes no sense to do this outside, since there will be fiberglass with the same epoxy resin.
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Brass inserts were made into the hull of the model for the bulwarks.
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The wooden lining of the model hull is sanded.
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The model supports will be attached as shown in the drawing. They will be similar to those shown in the photo, but only much smaller.
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Hello Nils! This ship has a horizontal keel. Only the thickness of the sheathing sheet will appear on the model.
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... and then it is soaked in very liquid epoxy resin.
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Thank you Roger! Everything is fine with me and I continue my story about Blagoev’s hull. The model hull is fully assembled...
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Thank you, Nils! I don’t have a laser cutting machine, so I ordered laser cutting. This is not an expensive operation. But I developed a drawing in vectors for laser cutting of plywood.
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Thank you, Yves! Unfortunately, I don't know anything about Billing Boats. But I think that this is the simplest and most reliable method for constructing a model hull. I build all the hulls of my models using this method, including the Varyag.
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The photo shows the process of assembling the hull.
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Thanks to Lloyd's archive, good drawings of the ship's hull have been preserved. Based on these drawings, I developed a drawing of the model body and began its construction.
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A brief description of ss Blagoev can be found here https://skipshistorie.net/Bergen/BRG223LorentzWHansen/Tekster/BRG22319210100000 SONGA.htm
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SS Blagoev. Key dates from the life of the ship: - built 1921 under the name Songa , Armstrong, Whitworth & Co. Ltd, High Walker Yard, Newcastle, England - sold in 1935 to the USSR and received the name Blagoev - during the Spanish Civil War, the ship carried military supplies for the Republicans - during the last voyage from Odessa ( march 9, 1937 ) the ship was sunk by an Italian submarine LUGI SETTEMBRINI
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It so happened that I would have to build ss Blagoev for the customer in parallel with the destroyer.
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Phil, I'm glad that we understand each other! The photo shows a Cyclone-class destroyer after modernization.
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Ras, I always admire your tenacity! Small failures only strengthen your resolve. So I enjoy watching your progress.
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