grsjax

Anyone know anything about this company?  Ran across one of their models.

Interesting article in the June 1983 NRG Journal on the Willie Bennett kit with a lot of interesting info about the original boat's history including pictures.

grsjax,

I do have some plans (courtesy of a museum in Norway) in PDF for the Polaris, which was the ship's name before Shackleton purchased it. They are the construction drawings that it was built from, so it is in Norwegian. Tough to figure out how to translate. 

I have a massive sheet of mast details. 106 x 29 inches.

Hull structural

elevations

deck structural

figurehead

rigging

I'm not sure how to post images or PDFs since I am new to this forum.

 

As for me, I am building a 3D model of it in Sketchup. My eyes are useless for the fine detail work involved in physical modeling so I use the monitor instead. I need help in the rigging details as some of the hardware is not shown in detail on the plans. On the mizzenmast the peak halyards are connected how? Is there a hoop around the mast with eye rings?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Has anyone used any 3D printing to make parts foe ship building? Just curious about that.

Hi  tsurfing

I think you can post pdf files as an attachment to a post.  Not sure how large a file can be posted but it might be worth a try.

Howard Chappell actually covers the original design that all these models except the Roger B. Taney are based on in his book "The Baltimore Clipper".  It is shown on page 115 as Marestier No. 6.  The schooner is listed as having a length on deck of 92' 9" and a beam of 24'.  All of the kits based on these lines are inaccurate to various degrees and none of them accurately represent the rig and deck layout.

There is an article in a back issue of NRG (Volume 29 Number 2 June 1983 by Erik Ronnberg, jr and some follow up comments in the next issue, Sept. 83) that covers this ship, mentions several of the kits made from its lines and has pictures of a model made by Erik Ronnberg, Sr. 

Hi

Is there a list or links to companies in Turkey and/or Russia?  Seems like they would have some interesting subjects you wouldn't find here.  Found one on the internet, Turk Model, but they had a limited range of models and I couldn't find any US dealers.

Ran across this kit on eBay.  Interesting Turkish trading vessel that isn't something you see everyday in a kit.  From a Russian seller called Speedekin.  The pictures of the kit look good but the instructions look like they are in Chinese (I think that is what it is).  Anyone ever seen this kit in the flesh?  Is it one of the proscribed kits?

Basswood quality seems to vary quite a bit.  I have some that is almost as soft as balsa and some that is pretty hard (for basswood that is).  The harder pieces have a very dense, close grain while the softer pieces are a bit fuzzy.

Speaking of making very small diameter treenails you might want to consider using bamboo.  Bamboo can be draw down to very small diameter without breakage.  May not be worth the effort but it can be done.

Have to be careful with plywood.  It doesn't bend in two planes at the same time like regular wood will.  Soaking or steaming is not usually a good idea as the plys tend to delaminate when they get wet.  I would think the best way would be to make a jig that approximates the curve you need and clamp the plywood to that until it assumes the correct curve.  Haven't tried that with plywood but it works well with wood strips.

A table saw falls into the nice to have column unless you are planning on doing a lot of straight cuts.  If you want to get one but don't want or need a top of the line Byrnes you can usually find Dremel table saws on eBay for under $100, sometimes a lot less.  They are pretty good out of the box but can be vastly improved by tuning and a few mods.  The cheap table saws from Harbor Freight and others are ok but not up to doing really fine work.

nice set of tools.  Pretty good price as well.

The first model I built was from popsicle sticks.  That was about 55 years ago and the model was a small scow I found the plans for in an old book of building projects for boys.  The book must have been 30 years old even then.  I got the sticks from a local grocery store and it was the only small size wood planks I was aware of at the time.  Lots of fun for a kid with no tools and no experience but willing to jump in and start making something.

Just a heads up to anyone interested in obtaining a copy of this 7 volume work with the original wooden shipping crate.  There is one listed on eBay right now ( item number 111436694734 ).  Buy it Now for $360.  This is very cheap for this and I would snap it up if I could afford it.

Just started on a Dumas Mahogany runabout kit (build log to follow) and was wondering about the mahogany that comes with the kit.  Is it actually mahogany or is it a substitute wood?  If it is mahogany what type is it, african, honduran or something else?  Don't have a problem with the wood, easy to work and it takes a nice finish, just wondering what it actually is.

Thanks

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but if it isn't please move it.

After a session at the work table I always manage to get a layer of super glue on my finger tips.  I try scrubbing it off with soap and water but end up waiting for it to flake off over time.  I decided to experiment with other items around the bathroom sink to see if I could do a better job.  Turns out hand lotion works pretty well.  I put a drop on each finger tip and rub them together.  With in a short time the glue starts to come off.  Only takes a few minutes and I don't have the feeling of dry skin I usually have with CA glue residues.

I try to get wood in 1 to 2 inch thickness and 3 or 4 inch widths because most of the time you end up re-sizing it anyway and these sizes are easy to work with.  As for species I try to keep poplar, maple, black walnut and basswood in stock.  I also keep a lookout for any local woods that I can get and re-saw on my band or table saw.  Not sure what you would find in Colorado but I would think apple, pear, cherry and plum might be some you could lay your hands on.  If you know anyone with these trees in their yards you could offer to help prune them in exchange for the offcuts.  Another possible source is orchard operators.  See if you can get pieces they trim off during pruning operations.

There is something called barrier cream ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrier_cream ).  There are several brands but they all do the same thing, keep harmful chemicals from irritating the skin.  This stuff is used by machinists, mechanics, chemists, pest control people and others that regularly come into contact with chemicals.  It works well.  Check with a pharmacist if you can't find it.

Well things have not gone very well with the peapod.  After I recovered from the eye surgery and got new specs I got caught up in a long list of "honey do's" that needed doing.  That ran into more time than I expected.  Along with a family reunion on the mainland and a few other distractions I didn't get around to working on the peapod until recently.  Then along came hurricane Iselle.  Ended up being a tropical storm by the time it hit and it didn't do much damage to us.  However I had packed everything away to get ready for the storm and a lot of it ended up in my work area.  When I got around to unpacking everything and getting my work space cleaned out I found that the peapod had not survived as well as other things did.  The hull got a bit beat up (actually more that a bit) and redoing it is going to probably take more time than starting over.  For now I have set it aside and will work on something else from my kit stash until I can get around to buying a new peapod kit.  Maybe a ChrisCraft runabout from Dumas, always liked the looks of the old mahogany runabouts.

Next question would be; Does anyone know of a source of plans for Skackleton's "Endurance"?

Inquiring minds want to know.  I know I do.

Wish I could get one shipped to Hawaii for a reasonable price.  I checked with HF and they wanted more than the cost of the bench for the cheapest method.

Just a thought.  If you can find a good Unimat 3 lathe you might want to consider it.  It isn't made anymore but I think it was one of Unimat's best offerings.  If you can get the complete set it also has a milling column that is great.  Here in the US they show up on eBay regularly for a couple of hundred U$.

Very true.  There are several of the trees in the pasture next to our place and the cows love it when a branch is low enough to reach.  They gather around and eat everything they can get to.

I will take some pics and post them.  I have read that the gunpowder tree wood was used to make charcoal that was used to make gunpowder and that is how the tree came to be call the gunpowder tree.  Don't know if that is true but it makes a good story.

The band saw ideas are very interesting.  You could cut both length wise and across and have a grid pattern to work from.  I would think you would need to make patterns the thickness of your saw kerf to keep the hull same size.  That way you wouldn't need to make templates for hull shaping.

I have read that in smaller sailing vessels that if a sailor needed to go aloft for some reason, clear a block or untangle a line, he could climb the mast hoops like a ladder.  After seeing a large (by our modern standards) schooner at a tall ships parade it made sense.  The mast hoops were easily larger enough and strong enough to be used as a ladder when the sail was hoisted.