grsjax

Couldn't find a woodslicer locally but I did get a Starrett bimetal 1/2" blade for a good price.  Starrett has a good reputation.  Will give it a try and let you know how it works.

Ran across an interesting tool in the fabric department and thought it might have some utility in our hobby.  It is a rotary cutter used by quilters and leather workers.  It has a handle and a round, rotating blade about an inch across.  The blade is very sharp and is used with a cutting mat for cutting out patterns.  I think it would work with wood veneer just fine.  Anyone used one of these and if so what is your impression.  This picture is one I found on Amazon.

Can't say I'm familiar with those yet, but they sound like the advantage to bi-metal would be in better heat dissipation. What kind of cutting are you doing?  Scroll, re-saw, ect.?

A bit of both.  I presently mostly use a 3/8" 8 tooth blade for general cutting.  Thinking of getting a 1/2" blade for serious resawing and a 1/8" 15 tooth blade for fine scroll work.  Would like to know what experiance others have had with different brands. 

Recently read an article about bandsaw blades and it mentioned using bimetal blades for woodworking.  The reasoning seemed sound and the article mentioned good results.  Anyone here using bimetal blades?  Also what brand of blade is preferred?  I have been using a no name blade that came with my bandsaw and a Delta blade I picked up on sale.  Both seem adequate but I am sure there are better ones out there.

If you want a simple (realitively simple) practice project try building a small pulling boat like a whitehall or peapod.  Plans for both of these types are available from the Smithsonian for reasonable prices and Howard I. Chapelle's books "American Small Sailing Craft" and "Boat Building" also have plans as well as a wealth of info on building them.

A long sharp schooner like the America or a pilot boat would be good.  One with a sharp bow and a transom stern would probably be best.  Try to find one with no hollow in the garboard.

I have a set of checkering tools used to cut the checker on gunstocks.  There are several different types and shapes of cutters and on my set the blades can be replaced.  The are great small cutting tools but I have never heard of anyone using them for doing anything but cutting the checkering on stocks.  Has anyone tried using them to do carving for models? 

I can't answer the question but it may be possible to recut the threads in the nuts with the jewelers tap depending on what material the nuts are made of and how close you can get to matching the original thread.  I have done this with regular sized bolts and nuts when I could not get an exact match.  Can't guarantee it will work for you but it might be worth a try if all else fails.

Bought some and tried it out.  Worked pretty well for me.  Good for getting small items to stay in place when they can't be clamped.

Hi

I was taught that the hole for the tap should be the minor diameter of the thread plus the difference between the major and minor thread diameter.  Hope that helps.

I have used cuprinol but I would not suggest it for model building.  It left a greenish color in the wood.  Good stuff for protecting wood from bugs but I don't know how it would impact painting or other finishing processes.  Don't know what pentacyrI is.  I have used clear shellac to stablize wood for carving.  However it is sensitive to water and turns white if it gets wet.  Works great.  Can be painted over with water or oil based paints and I have clear coated over it with oil based finishes including tung oil and BLO.  Haven't tried using acrylic clear over it.  Plain white wood glue works well with soft woods like basswood.  Super glue can also be used.  Clear acyrlic paint is something I have used as well to keep down fuzz when sanding.  Hope that helps.

Have you tried a thin coat of clear spray paint over the tape to seal it first?

The book "Fast Sailing ships: Their Design and Construction, 1775 - 1875" by David R. MacGregor has an entire section devoted to the Scotish Maid with drawings and commentary.  Might be worth while to use this as a source of information on rigging and deck layout.

Bandsaws come from the factory needing a tune up.  There are several good websites and books available that go through a step by step procedure.  Not difficult to do unless something is really out of kilter.  Biggest single improvement is alining the wheels.  That alone will eliminate a lot of vibration.  Other things like truing up the tires and getting all the bolts tight will further improve things.  Take an hour to go through your new bandsaw and you will be much happier with its performance.

The tackle used was more than just a rope.  It usually consisted of two double blocks.  This gives a 4 to 1 mechanical advantage if the end of the line is belayed to the first block.  If the line is continuous, i.e. both ends free, the mechanical advantage is 5 to 1.  This would be more than enough purchase for two men to lift a 400 pound anchor.

On smaller schooners it was a common practice to not have a windlass and instead use a tackle attached to a strong point near the main mast to haul the anchor.  There would be one on either side of the deck used alternately to haul the cable inboard.  Made for a simple, light weight system that could be cleared away when not needed so it took up no deck space.

There is a distinction to be made here.  If this were a contest or professional venue detailed specifications of catagores would be appropriate.  However I, and suspect many others here, build ship models as a hobby because we enjoy it.  I do not see what utility there is in making ridgid lines between classes.  Just my .02 for what it is worth.

I received my copy over a week ago.  Some great articles this time.

If formaldehyde is an issue for you get the waterproof MDF, it does not contain formaldehyde.  However that said it is probable that irritation of the lungs and mucus membranes by wood dust from machineing MDF is probably a greater health hazard than formaldehyde released from the boards.  Use a dust mask and eye protection when cutting/sanding any wood product.

If you can put all your tools into organizers you don't have enough tools.

Don't know for sure but the pullys and belt are probably standard parts.  Do a google search for toothed belts/pully and see what you find.

BTW there is a guy on eBay that sells a similar kit for Dremel table saws.

Thanks for the comments guys. It looks like I've set the bar a bit high, the main reason I'd chosen this ship was because of the availability of plans. (not to mention high quality tiff files) For my first build I'd like to use a full set of plans, just to keep myself at ease. Could you folks suggest me good website with plans I could acquire? 

Modelexpo sells sets of plans for all their kits.  Several websites have plans available.  Lots of books with plans in them, anything by Howard I. Chappel or William A. Baker would be good place to start.  The Smithsonian Institute sells plans from their collection at very reasonable prices.  The National Maritime Museum also sells plans but I have heard that they can be expensive.  Google ship or boat plans (3,090,000 hits when I googled it) and you will come up with a lot of websites.  All depends on what you are looking for in terms of size, price and subject.

A good first build from the days of sail is the Armed Virginia Sloop (P-O-B, plans available from Modelexpo).  A British revenue cutter would also be a good one.

Have to agree with the above comments about the difficulties of doing a two decker as a first build.  However that is your choice so enough said.  As for wood I like poplar as a general building wood.  Widely available, not expensive, hard enough for most purposes but easy to work.  Cherry and walnut are also good choices if you can get straight grained pieces.  Maple is very good but some species can be hard to work.

Just a suggestion but build the ship's boats first as a lead in to the main event.

Very interesting comments.  I look forward to the day when laser cutters and 3D printers are both cheap and reliable tools for the hobbiest.  Considering the huge advances made in other areas of high tech over the last decade I don't think that is an unreasonable hope.

Received an email ad this morning for a MicroMark Laser Knife.  A desk top laser cutter for the hobbiest.  Great looking machine and something I would definately want to add to my workshop but the price is a little steep at $2000.  Hope these go the way of laser printers and come down in price to where it becomes affordable to the average model builder.