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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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  1. The Whaling Gun Box was constructed from 1/16” sheet boxwood. The ends fit the curve of the ceiling. The front side joins the two shaped ends while the backside is formed by the ceiling itself. The top was split as shown and the front piece was hinged to the back piece by leather strips. The box was stained to match the Bow Sheet.
  2. Tiller and Rudder completed. The Gudgeons and Pintles were made from the supplied thin 3/8” wide brass strip. The Pintles were formed and fitted to the rudder and small brass nails were soldered to them to serve as the hinge pins. The Gudgeons and Pintles were attached using small copper nails. The Tiller was “riveted” with copper nails The Steering Oar Brace is also shown in the last photo. The support brace was made from 1/32” brass wire.
  3. RB, Very nice build. I hope mine turns out half as good. This is a fun and instructive boat to model. Paul
  4. Completed the Compass and Compass Box. The Box was made from 1/32” basswood sheet according to plans. Compass Rose reduced in Photoshop. Lens effect was made using a drop of CA glue. In the first photo below, the box slides were glued to a scrap of wood as shown, then glued to bottom of Cuddy. When the glue was dry, the scrap was cut away leaving the slides attached.
  5. Finished carving and attaching the Peak Cleats, Oarlock Pads and Foot Brace. Also, I decided to remove some of the dark brown paint from the thwarts. I used lacquer thinner which gave the thwarts a “worn” look which I like. Photos don’t do the “look” justice.
  6. Finished carving and mounting some unpainted cleats. Starting at the stern is the cleat on the Cuddy Board. Next to the Cuddy Board are the Standing Cleats with another cleat above each. Near the stem are the Preventer Cleats. Stern Stem
  7. This will be the inboard color scheme. The Gunwales are black; Thwarts, Thigh Board and Cuddy Board are dark brown. The Stem and Stern Sheets, Lion’s Tongue and Logger Head are Golden Oak stained. Two other colors, as seen here and in earlier photos, are buff and blue.
  8. I have finished putting in place the Logger Head, Mast Tabernacle and Mast Chute. The Logger Head was carved from a piece of 3/8” dowel (not provided) following the plan sheets and manual. Much care was needed to position and drill a 1/8” hole into the deck floor for the Logger Head support post. The hole in the Lion’s Tongue was 3/8”. The Tabernacle and Chute have been described earlier. The mast is not finished but was temporarily used for positioning
  9. Interestingly I have used the plans extensively for building. In the case of the longboat, I rarely used them. There is a great deal of carving to do - which I really enjoy. There will be sails to make and a whole lot of details. Whaleboat gear will probably take as long as I have already spent.
  10. Jonathan and Arthur, thanks for the comments on the colors. Actually the present colors might change slightly. Painted surfaces were used on whaleboats in order to preserve the wood surfaces as much as possible. At present I might paint the thwarts two tone. I am thinking the color of the risers will be extended inward about 1/5th or less of the thwart width on each side. The rest would be a dark brown similar to the stain shown in most of my recent photos. (See the first photo in my last post entry above where I painted just a bit of the first thwart the riser color.) The only change I might consider is to paint the entire thwart the dark brown. I have been spending a lot of time studying different color schemes and have gone back and forth with different ones several times. Any suggestions on thwart colors which I have discussed above are welcomed.
  11. Bow chocks were cut from 1/4” x 1/8” stock and glued in place. Also a cleat for the center board lifting rod was cut from scrap and glued in place. In the first photo notice the completed Thigh Board. In the photos you can also notice the small copper nails in place on the thwart knees and Thigh Board. The nails are made of copper and are 0.5 mm x 0.6 mm.
  12. Very nicely done. I have enjoyed following you as well as having numerous interactions.
  13. Well, I found that I had done the thwart knees wrong on half of the thwarts and so I redid them. In addition, I worked on the Thigh Board and the Mast Tabernacle. Shown below is the start of the Mast Chute. The Mast Hinge was constructed from the photo etched sheet and bent into shape using round nosed pliers. The hinge pins were made from 1/32" brass rod. The Mast Tabernacle was drawn and then cut from 3/32" a basswood sheet. The Thigh Board was completed by adding leather to the Clumsy Cleat; adding the Kicking Strap; and adding the Lance Tails.
  14. I am also wanting to do smaller boats which don’t take a lot of time to build. If I do all the smaller build kits, I may try scratch building one.
  15. Three Thwarts and their Knees essentially finished. Yet to decide if I want to paint the center of Thwarts. I kind of like the look as is right now. We’ll see. Anyway, one and a half Thwarts to go. As a break in the action, I worked on the Box, Cuddy Board and Lion’s Tongue. Then I added a bit of paint to check out the color scheme. After looking at the photo below, I see the unstained Thwart may need straightening. Interesting how photos sometimes reveal things you miss otherwise. I will check in out tomorrow.
  16. One Thwart and its Knees in place. I find this process is very slow but the laminate procedure seems to work out well. Ready for the next one. I am using Minwax Golden Oak Stain. I may paint the center portion of the Thwarts dark brown or black I will wait and see how the whole boat comes together before I make a decision on this.
  17. Arthur, The Thwarts, Thigh Board and Cuddy will be stained light oak. Maybe the Thwarts will have black or dark brown centers. Not sure what I want to do yet. I think the Centerboard Case will remain blue.
  18. Arthur, she looks absolutely wonderful. I am struck by how much great detail you put into her. Congratulations and I hope your move go well.
  19. Finally got the stem and stern sheets done and in the process discovered that I got the Sheet beams set a bit too high above the keel. When installing them, I measured on the plans from the Inwale down to the top of the beams and ended up putting the bottom of the beams at that position on the boat. This resulted in the Sheets being wider than the plans and an interesting herringbone pattern which I kinda like. Anyway, the height of the Sheets increase as a result of this mistake would only amount to about two inches on the prototype. After the Sheets were made, they were stained. Then I painted the inside of the boat. The Gunwales will be black.
  20. I would say that scratch building oars is the best option as it seems easier and less time consuming. Good job.
  21. Thanks John - I have a question which you might answer. When the Gunwale and Inwale stripes are in place, is there any additional cap rail strip which needs to be added? I do not find any reference to it in the manual or on build logs. However, in the parts list there are strips designated as for cap strips and sheets.

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