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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. Arthur, it looks very good. I had the same problem when drilling the holes in the cap rails. I like the tape idea. I too will have to give the cap rails an extra coat of paint or two. I probably should have squared in the tholes but It never occurred to me to do it. Oh well 😔 a perfectionist I’m not. That is why my treenails are pencil marks not in very straight lines.
  2. Finished shaping and painting the Mast, Boom, Gaff and Bowsprit. All of these were shaped using the technique described above. Also, all small parts were blackened using Jax Pewter Black. The Horse was blackened using Birchwood Casey Brass Black.
  3. Hello Aaron, I just noticed you have not posted in a good while. I hope you continue to make progress on your boat. As a suggestion, I would contact Model-Expo again and request a new sheet which contains the keel and false keel. Paul
  4. Welcome Curtis to the group building the 18th Century Armed Longboat. I hope your build goes well and if you have any questions, there are several of us in the process of building this boat. There have been a number of surprises found by the group members which you might want to read about in member logs. Paul
  5. The Boom was made from 1/4" round birch dowel. A piece of dowel 15" long was cut and marks made at 1.5 inches from each end and 5.5 inches from one end. The end nearest the 5.5 inch end was turned down to 3/16" at the 1.5 inch mark and the the other end at the 1.5 inch mark was turned down to 1/8 inch. The former will be the hook end. The 1.5 inch pieces on both ends were used to clamp the dowel in an electric drill and were cut off after finishing. Both tapers were started by cutting around the dowel at the 1.5 inch marks and then making slicing cuts towards the cuts moving a
  6. I think the kit oarlocks looked to be too large and, in my opinion, seemed to dominate the scene. I like the looks of the smaller oarlocks painted the same color as the cap rails. They don’t draw attention to themselves.
  7. Arthur, I chucked the wood pieces tightly in the Dremel so they would not wobble and then used Squadron course sanding sticks. Usually when they first turned round, they would be 1/16”. Then I would go to medium grit sticks and finish them to 3/64” which seemed to be the next step in sanding. This size would be 1-1/8 inches in diameter prototype which seemed reasonable. They probably would have used a real hard wood. I think 1/16” would have been okay as well but 3/64” just came out well as a finished product. BTW, I used a Dremel drill press work station to hold the Dremel.
  8. The Oarlocks were turned from 1/16”x1/16”x3/4”basswood with a Dremel to 3/64” round. They were cut at 5/32” height after gluing in place and then painted red to match the cap rails. I used a block of scrap basswood with two holes drilled in it as a template to position the Oarlocks.
  9. Arther, I am waiting on getting some dowels. Also, this weekend is filled with activities so I may not get a whole lot done. However, I do plan to work on the Oarlocks next. I will make a template of metal to use as a drill guide so that I get all the spacings the same. I still don’t know exactly what size or color. Do you have any suggestions?
  10. I have carved the mast from 3/8” x 3/8” basswood. In order to make the foot fit properly into the floor foot, I glued a small piece of round 5/16” round dowel on the mast foot As discussed in post #116 above, I chose to use the Medway graphics (see post #118) instead of photo etched brass provided in the kit. I have also removed the Oarlocks for now.
  11. Arthur, I had already started on the photo etched approach and after talking with Chuck and seeing his work, I decided to go that route instead, especially when he graciously offered his patterns for use. I also decided to go with smaller Oarlocks as mine seemed too large and I didn’t do them as well as I liked. I have decided to make them out of small dowel (yet to be decided) without a base plate. I will probably paint them red. Chuck said it it was alright to share the friezes. I have made one for the transom of our build. Here they are for anyone interested: Sid
  12. I have backed up a bit and will not be making any forward progress for a while. I have removed the Transom Rub Rail for good as well as the Oarlocks. I have decided to use the decorations that Chuck used on his Medway Longboat 1742 (with his permission). I used Photoshop to create an appropriately shaped Transom piece with his design. I also plan to use the decorations below the Cap Rails. I suppose I can make these available for this build. I will ask Chuck. As far as the Oarlocks, I plan to use small brass wires/rods or wire nails of appropriate diameter. Also, I have shaved a 3/8" x
  13. Arthur, I found Chuck Passaro's website where he discusses his 1/24 scale Medway Longboat (1742) and his mast is 3/8". I think I shall go with the 3/8" mast starting with square stock as then I will not have to change other parts as you did. I found that HD sells square basswood strips so my trip to get some was much shorter than I first thought. Anyone reading this should check how true they are before purchasing.
  14. Arthur, you have confirmed what I have been trying to say. With that said, a 3/8" Main Mast would work just fine as the mast foot could be sanded just a bit to fit the floor plate and the Boom Ring, Mast Brace and Thwart Seat would all fit. Also, the inset at the mast top would work out well. I think using square basswood rod as a starting point would be ideal. The following was by GMorrison on Fine Scale Modeler in response to me about various wood types. "Try basswood strip longer than the finished part, plus whatever is needed to anchor the mast to the hull. To me, that means
  15. Ken, the Traveler Ring on the Horse in the picture looks considerably smaller than the one I have which is marked/called the Horse Traveler (3/8” ID). I would think that the Boom Ring would be larger than the Horse Traveler but maybe I’m Incorrect.
  16. Arthur, you say that the Mast Support Iron Bracket fits the 5/16" dowel. My bracket is way too small. Could you give me the dimension of the inside diameter of yours? Mine is 17/64”. Also, my mast foot hole is 21/64” which is only 3/64” smaller than 3/8”.
  17. Thanks Ken for your reply and information. I really appreciate your response. Please read my comments to Arthur as well. Arthur, Thanks for the information. Concerning the Mast Thwart, I was planning to use card stock to make a collar for the mast to bring it up to 3/8”. Ken kindly replied and affirmed that the 5/16” mast stock and labeled parts were correct. My biggest concern is the size of the mast at the 3” mark above the foot to get the boom ring to fit. It will be quite a bit smaller than 5/16”.
  18. I have to scale the plan sheets to 93% in Photoshop to get things to work out. I think I am going to try a 3/8" dowel if I can find one, if not, a two hour round trip to Hobby Lobby is next. The item marked Horse Traveler has an ID of 5/16". A 3/8" dowel can be worked down to fit this piece as well as the Mast Brace.
  19. Arthur, your boat really looks good. The trim pieces really make the boat stand out. I can't wait to get mine on although I will probably work in the order of the manual. I think your tiller came out very well. I glued my tiller into the rudder and, without thinking, cut the excess off the back side - not a serious error I hope. On another note, I am having problems with the main mast (see my last post) and I think your discovery that the mast brace was too large for the 5/16" mast is an issue that may mean the mast dowel provided is too small.
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