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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. In order to post a build log, do you go to the section entitled build logs from model kits and post a new topic with the title of the build or do you simply start a new topic anywhere?
  2. Thanks for the encouragement. I will give it strong consideration. I already have kept a photograph documentation log on my phone which I could use to bring a build log up to where I am now.
  3. I have thought about a build log but I am going so slow that I don’t know if it would be beneficial to me or anyone. I hope to complete the boat someday but sometimes I wonder.
  4. I think I will start over to just before the errors begin. Thanks for the input as I just needed a little encouragement to get it done right. A little time is worth doing it correctly.
  5. I assume that by the lack of response, what I do is up to me and really is up to me. Except for scale, this boat is very much like the smaller Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat. If builders of that boat have any comments on this I would appreciate them. My present plan is to start jointing according to the suggested plans. That way only one strake joint will be out of plan.
  6. Suppose wood glue dries in a somewhat smeared fashion, let’s say, on strakes. If scraped and sanded, will stain not cover uniformly?
  7. This is probably a somewhat silly inquiry. I am working on the Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Long Boat. When I first looked at the instructions, I got the stem and stern reversed as only the center or 0 bulkhead was marked for placement of the strake joints. Therefore my placements of the joints are now on the way to being 180 degrees out of phase from aft to bow. Since I am only two strakes beyond the garboard, I could continue, or I could start correcting or I could start over. I would prefer to not start over as the completed strakes were very difficult. Which of (1), continuing on, or
  8. Working very slowly on building this boat and wish to share a couple of things I have found which worked for me. When fairing the bulkheads, I also found some bulkheads are too low. Rather than replace them I carefully used something like Testors or other suitable Contour Putty to build up low areas. How this will look on the inside remains to be seen although I use it sparingly and keep it off the sides. Additionally, when bending strikes, I found that soaking the planks in near boiling water for a few minutes, clamping in place followed by judicious use of a heat gun on low, w
  9. If the nails are for looks and not for holding, their is a log I saw on this site where a build showed black monofilament line inserted into predrilled holes.
  10. Gregory, referring to the above photo, is the next plank to the garboard a straight plank which is cut angled at the end and bent into place? I am asking this as it seems this will have something to do with how I cut my garboard which is very much like the one shown here.
  11. The garboard on my model does not meet the bow but is supposed to terminate three bulkheads short. It then appears to curve outward from the keel towards the stern. Would using masking tape work here or is there a better way? It looks like the curvature (near the center of the curve) of the cut generally points towards the stern in all cases. However, in your case, the curvature points below the keel. In my case, the curvature points above the keel. So if you move from your case to my situation on different models , it looks like the curvature will move from somewhere below the k
  12. I think maybe I might have it. After looking at logs and studying the shapes of garboards, I think this quick sketch might show what the instructions are trying to say. The striped area would be cut away. Does this seem reasonable? The plank is 1/4 inch wide. Do most builders just make the shape of the garboard by looks so that it has a smooth flow into the keel or what?
  13. I am going to start building the relatively new Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Long Boat 1/24th Scale. This will be the first planking I have ever done. I have read many logs of the earlier MS 18th Century Armed Long Boat builders in preparation for this adventure. I have also being studying the various articles on planking. I have a very specific question concerning the garboard shaping on the Armed Long Boat. It involves a specific step in the instruction manual. The particular step is as follows: "Now start planking at the Keel by cutting an angle from the dry end
  14. I just finished a Scientific Cutty Sark kit #163 which I had started many years ago. Last year around February, I decided to finish it, so I dug the box out of storage only to find half of the material was missing. Since I had the hull nicely shaped a sanded smoothly, I went to eBay and found another kit for sale. When I go it, I found it had a different set of plans than the one I had. My original kit did not have a several page booklet of instructions plus a different "lifelike" plan sheet. Also, some details and expected parts were not included. I decided to used the newer more detail
  15. On 1:100 and smaller scale, has anyone tried notching the yards a bit with a Dremel to fit the masts ?
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