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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. Before proceeding to the rigging, I decided to redo the canon mounts. I cut them from 3/8” dowel. The stem starboard gun mount was carved to fit between the bow Thwart and G bulkhead/frame, then come up inside and over the cap rail.
  2. In the reading I have done, many of the Longboats or launched in the early 1800’s were converted or built as armed. I would not be surprised if some of the boats did not have bowsprit backstays. When sails were up as for rescue boats, there would be strong upward forces needing a counter force. As as far as the x2 enlargement, I think you are correct. Obviously, some mods were needed for their concept of arming the boat.
  3. Thanks all for the comments. I don’t think Arthur and I are in a mad dash to finish rather we want to do the best we can. Actually I find it interesting and fun to make modifications to the kit plans. Both of us have been in a discovery mode and we hope it will give others ideas and help as they work on their builds.
  4. I have adopted Arthur’s approach to chainplates and deadeye strops as we are both on an approach of modifying our boats using Chuck’s design. I tried forming strops from small brass rods but found it difficult to create the small curves. I experimented with various wire and decided copper would work well. I settled on 20 gauge thermostat wire. I used small round nosed jewelry pliers to form the bends and curves. In order to create a black color, I used Brass Black Metal Finish on the copper parts. Holes were drilled in the deadeyes to receive the eyebolts. The bands and hooks were glued with thin CA. I would refer readers to Arthur’s fine detailed description, but basically there are four parts: modified kit chainplates, strop rings or bands, strop eyebolts and strop-chainplate hooks. In the first photograph below, the parts are shown with the strop bands appearing as unbent straight wires. Finished assemblies -
  5. I remember the mention about the cap rail width problem, but it would require either removing and replacing or shaving off some from the outside. The inside is somewhat fixed because of the frames so only the outside can be reduced. I am not sure I want to tackle this as if I mess up, I would probably scrap the build and start over with Chuck’s or something else. At this point I think I will probably have fun and finish it. There was also mention that the boat boat was too narrow for a gunboat.
  6. Arthur, great look for the strops and hooks. Right now I am not doing too well getting something looking even a fraction as good as yours. The hole idea may be the key. I have been trying to make a one piece strop-hook combination. Trying to bend a hook on it is a real problem. Thanks for sharing your post on this.
  7. Arthur, I have not looked at the bowsprit Traveler at all other to make sure it fit and slid. Can the rigging be made to reflect reality? With regards to your rigging, what size are you considering? Chuck on his rigging plan uses 0.45 mm and 0.63 mm. I have some of both and some other sizes leftover from my Cutty Sark build. Also, are you using wire or brass for your strops? I tried using 1/32” brass rod but it is way too hard to shape and also I think it looks too large. I think 20 gauge wire might be the ticket.
  8. I think Chuck is happy when boats are improved in any way. I have slowed way down as I ponder what I am going to do next.
  9. Working on rigging but undecided as what to do with the chainplates and strops. I am looking at various options which also includes those offered in the kit.
  10. Arthur, I looked at the Medway Longboat and l like the color scheme and am tempted to go with it as well. I will think about it.
  11. Arthur, it looks very good. I had the same problem when drilling the holes in the cap rails. I like the tape idea. I too will have to give the cap rails an extra coat of paint or two. I probably should have squared in the tholes but It never occurred to me to do it. Oh well 😔 a perfectionist I’m not. That is why my treenails are pencil marks not in very straight lines.
  12. Finished shaping and painting the Mast, Boom, Gaff and Bowsprit. All of these were shaped using the technique described above. Also, all small parts were blackened using Jax Pewter Black. The Horse was blackened using Birchwood Casey Brass Black.
  13. Hello Aaron, I just noticed you have not posted in a good while. I hope you continue to make progress on your boat. As a suggestion, I would contact Model-Expo again and request a new sheet which contains the keel and false keel. Paul
  14. Welcome Curtis to the group building the 18th Century Armed Longboat. I hope your build goes well and if you have any questions, there are several of us in the process of building this boat. There have been a number of surprises found by the group members which you might want to read about in member logs. Paul
  15. The Boom was made from 1/4" round birch dowel. A piece of dowel 15" long was cut and marks made at 1.5 inches from each end and 5.5 inches from one end. The end nearest the 5.5 inch end was turned down to 3/16" at the 1.5 inch mark and the the other end at the 1.5 inch mark was turned down to 1/8 inch. The former will be the hook end. The 1.5 inch pieces on both ends were used to clamp the dowel in an electric drill and were cut off after finishing. Both tapers were started by cutting around the dowel at the 1.5 inch marks and then making slicing cuts towards the cuts moving around the dowel as well as away from the 1.5 inch marks. In this way a rough taper was cut. The dowel was then put in the electric drill and brought to final shape with 50 grit sandpaper. The dowel was clamped in the drill with the chuck nearest the end being worked on so that chances of the dowel breaking were reduced. Finally, 250 grit sandpaper was used to finish the piece. Initial slicing cuts to form end of taper were made from the downward cut at the 1.5" mark backward towards the 5.5" mark - - Rough cut taper and coarse grit sanding done on one end - - Finished Boom before cutting off chuck holding ends - - The finished Boom (not shown) is 12 inches long and has a shoulder notch cut at the 1/8" end for the Topping Lift Rope. As a note in passing, I made the mast from basswood and the boom from birch and I think that the birch is a whole lot easier to work with.
  16. I think the kit oarlocks looked to be too large and, in my opinion, seemed to dominate the scene. I like the looks of the smaller oarlocks painted the same color as the cap rails. They don’t draw attention to themselves.
  17. Arthur, I chucked the wood pieces tightly in the Dremel so they would not wobble and then used Squadron course sanding sticks. Usually when they first turned round, they would be 1/16”. Then I would go to medium grit sticks and finish them to 3/64” which seemed to be the next step in sanding. This size would be 1-1/8 inches in diameter prototype which seemed reasonable. They probably would have used a real hard wood. I think 1/16” would have been okay as well but 3/64” just came out well as a finished product. BTW, I used a Dremel drill press work station to hold the Dremel.
  18. The Oarlocks were turned from 1/16”x1/16”x3/4”basswood with a Dremel to 3/64” round. They were cut at 5/32” height after gluing in place and then painted red to match the cap rails. I used a block of scrap basswood with two holes drilled in it as a template to position the Oarlocks.
  19. Arther, I am waiting on getting some dowels. Also, this weekend is filled with activities so I may not get a whole lot done. However, I do plan to work on the Oarlocks next. I will make a template of metal to use as a drill guide so that I get all the spacings the same. I still don’t know exactly what size or color. Do you have any suggestions?
  20. I have carved the mast from 3/8” x 3/8” basswood. In order to make the foot fit properly into the floor foot, I glued a small piece of round 5/16” round dowel on the mast foot As discussed in post #116 above, I chose to use the Medway graphics (see post #118) instead of photo etched brass provided in the kit. I have also removed the Oarlocks for now.
  21. Arthur, I had already started on the photo etched approach and after talking with Chuck and seeing his work, I decided to go that route instead, especially when he graciously offered his patterns for use. I also decided to go with smaller Oarlocks as mine seemed too large and I didn’t do them as well as I liked. I have decided to make them out of small dowel (yet to be decided) without a base plate. I will probably paint them red. Chuck said it it was alright to share the friezes. I have made one for the transom of our build. Here they are for anyone interested: Side decorations - http://clearstarrynights.com/longboat/freizescaprailMS.pdf Transom decoration http://clearstarrynights.com/longboat/freizeTransomMS.pdf There are multiples at same size.
  22. I have backed up a bit and will not be making any forward progress for a while. I have removed the Transom Rub Rail for good as well as the Oarlocks. I have decided to use the decorations that Chuck used on his Medway Longboat 1742 (with his permission). I used Photoshop to create an appropriately shaped Transom piece with his design. I also plan to use the decorations below the Cap Rails. I suppose I can make these available for this build. I will ask Chuck. As far as the Oarlocks, I plan to use small brass wires/rods or wire nails of appropriate diameter. Also, I have shaved a 3/8" x 3/8" basswood rod into a round mast and I am close to getting the taper done using the electric drill technique. In a day or two I hope to be able to post some progress pictures.
  23. Arthur, if you want to use a 3/8” mast, it is quite easy to file the bottom of the mast to fit the mast foot. It will never show.

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