Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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I thought about using acetone to free them up, but allowing the strakes to follow their natural flow would result in shortening the strakes at the stem. The only solution then would be to cut new boards I believe you are correct in saying the shields will hide small errors. I have not had this issue before but I have learned I have to be more careful. -
Thanks, Paul
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Yes there is a small kink on that side near the stern. I noticed it later after I was finished planking and did not know how to fix it except to remove several layers and reshape the frames as needed. That option was nixed as I have been using CA glue for the strakes. I should have been more careful and watched the fairing as I proceeded. Thanks for your comments, Paul
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I tried to edit out the last four photos in last post with no luck. Would like to know how to solve this reoccurring problem.
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I have not posted in a while but progress was made. The following photos and brief comments will take this log up to date. Finished Keel all stained. Below, the keel, frames and false deck were simultaneously assembled and glued. Next the garboard is fitted and glued. Then other strakes were attached. The deck and interior. The mast foot is fashioned using a dremel. The deck was stained with a light oak stain. The mast foot, shown, was stained and attached. The rudder, hand sanded, is shown ready for staining.
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Actually yes! I have been rather lax on posting. I’ll try to catch my log up soon.
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Very nicely done. I love the details. She's off on a journey in the North Sea and beyond.
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Very nice work 😎
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Thanks all. I have never tackled a clinker model before and none of what has been said was even hinted at in the instructions. Paul
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Thanks Jaager and Mark, I think I am am beginning to see. I will need a chamfer on the upper edge of each strake, near the stern and stem posts, and a rabbet down the keel as well as the stem and stern posts. Is this correct? Paul
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I am trying to figure out how the strakes on a clinker built ship or boat overlapped (the sud) at the stem and stern. I find it possible to bend strakes from having sud to not having sud as you approach the stem and stern but I feel this may be incorrect. If the strakes do overlap at the stem and stern, how are they joined at the stem and stern posts? Are they beveled or notched in some way? Is there an article or post on this which I might have missed. Thanks
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Johnathan, thanks for the translation. I looked at a bit of it and it looks like a fantastic read.
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Thanks for your suggestion. I am not sure what I will do as yet.
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Well, I have finally started the build. After reading the instructions, I have decided to follow them for assembling the keel, frames and false deck. I think the false deck should properly align the frames. Some others have found success building jigs to aid in frame installation and alignment. First I drilled the required holes in the stem and stern posts. Next, I glued the two keel pieces together between wax paper held down by a “sad” iron. Sad irons were fire heated clothes irons. Then the finished piece was stained Kona color
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The pillow approach gives me an idea. I think a homemade “bean bag” would work well. Thanks 😎
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A previous build, Model Shipways Armed Longboat, had frames which were like shown below. My current build, Dusek Gokstad has neither the frame centers intact (to be removed or knocked out later) or the attached “plank” or “strong-back” running from stem to stern.
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I am ready to plank my ship which has no solid frame knockouts or strong back. Also, it has a false deck in place which is not strong enough to attach any kind of holding rod or device. I think the stem and stern are not strong enough to use. Does anyone have experience or ideas?
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Ah Colorado Springs one of my old stomping grounds. I grew up in Denver and I love the Rockies. I hope you get your move and house soon. Right now I’m working on my N scale railroad layout and have a project going which I want to finish before starting the Gokstad. BTW, I just finished a Model-Expo Gatling Gun for my son-in-law. These are quick and fun projects.
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Hey Arthur, when are you going to post more on this one? Your work looks superb as usual. I am going to start a Dusek model soon. I have decided on the Gokstad Viking ship. It looks like it will be fun build and its history is very fascinating.
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Hey Tiger, have you started a new build yet? If not, you might want to look at the Dusek models. They look like good kits. I am going to give a try at one of the Viking models as I am not really wanting to start a two or three year project.
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Hello John, I just got my Dusek Gokstad and plan to start on it soon. I will be following your build with interest. 😎 Paul
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I will be starting my third ship build log. Gokstad Viking Ship, a Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale The model is based on a find near Gokstad Norway in 1880. The prototype was built in mid ninth century. The ship was shown to be very seaworthy by Magnus Anderson in 1893. The ship had 32 oars and a square sail. I will be starting the actual building in a couple weeks but I would like to post the usual kit pictures.
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Thanks I will. 😎. Thanks to all for your wonderful comments.
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I have finally finished the New Bedford Whaleboat. In line with the pictures in my last post, I have mounted my whaleboat on a whale 🐋 The picture of whalers in a whaleboat on a whale with sail tucked away was excellent inspiration for my final display. Thanks for looking and for all your comments. This has been a fun build and one which added more to my skill and confidence bag. My next project will be Model Shipways Gatling Gun.
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I made two waifs using a visible red color. I painted some “sail” cloth and rolled them onto the poles. I forgot to mention the making of the hatchet in my last post. The waifs and hatchet can be seen in the following pictures. The last item in completing the Whaleboat was the sail. I was in a quandary whether to have a raised sail or a wrapped sail as shown on the kit box (see post #1). I decided on the latter as it will fit my display (to be shown later when completed) as well as the following pictures which I found on the internet (no source was found). My finished sail is shown below.
Our Emblem
