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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I just found your log. Absolutely nice build and welcome to MSW.
  2. Hah, I did make a change of plans on the paint scheme. After researching museum pieces and reading several articles, what I was proposing was within historical accuracy. However, I found some interesting paint schemes which I liked better than my first one. As of now I am thinking about the following: Hull to Sheer - White Rub Rail - Black Sheer - Red Gunwale/Inwale - Black Wales, Thwart Risers and Thwarts - Buff Ceilings - Light Blue Stem and Stern Sheets - Light Oak Stain After I make the Sheets, I plan to paint the interior so I will be heading into several days without posting.
  3. Arthur, Hurry up and finish the longboat. Then you can get started and catch up with me on this one. LOL I have the Inwales, Gunwales and roller in place. And now I am getting very close to color decisions time. Right now I am leaning toward the following: Hull to Sheer - Dark Green Rub Rail - Black Sheer - White Gunwale/Inwale - Black From Inwale to first ceiling plank - Light Green or ? Ceilings - Gray Thwarts - Light Brown & Black ? All else - Natural or Stained And of course I reserve the right to change my mind.
  4. Very nice Arthur. I like your innovative procedure and final look. You are actually getting yourself ready for scratch building. Just curious as to how long it took to make one oar. After a couple were made and I had the procedure in hand, I was able to carve one out in less than 30 minutes. I used to be afraid of carving but now it is actually one of my most favorite things to do. Either way yours look great and you have provided an excellent alternative to a lot of carving.
  5. Yes it has some new interesting challenges for me to learn to overcome. This one is definitely helping me learn new skills which should be helpful for more complicated builds. I am glad I went this route. As I read ahead, I see that there are several more learning curves facing me.
  6. First cut was deep enough to include the rabbet cut for the gunwales The second was cut parallel to the drawn line to form the outboard side of the Cheek. The rabbet cut was then shaped to give a fit. Finally the scarf was made for the inwale.
  7. I have taken a different approach and think I am on the right track now. I will post my results when finished.
  8. I see how cardstock would work great fro 2D; however, the Cheek pieces have a complicated 3D twist with scarfs. I think I can get the scarfs OK if I can get the basic twists down. I can probably used cardstock to get the proper length and height of the Cheek and then do some carving on the resulting block. I will continue working on it - trial and error. If other builders of the MS NBW have scale drawings of the Cheeks, I would appreciate any help.
  9. I am having real problems making the Cheek pieces. The dimensions on the plan sheets don’t help very much. I have attempted several pieces and none seem very close to what others have achieved. Not only do I have to get one right, I will have to cut another matching one for the other side. I have several pictures of what others have done, but descriptions are very sparse. Some have indicated that they are not too hard to make. Before I waste more daylight and wood, I would appreciate any tips from others.
  10. I have completed the ceiling. I used 3/64” x 5/16” strips for all ceiling planks except #6 on the port side where the gap was a bit too wide. Here I cut a plank to fit from a 1/2” wide strip.
  11. Centerboard Trunk and Mast Step have been completed. Reinforcing strips were glued to the top of the keel in two places for mounting rods.
  12. I have now completed installing the Thwart Risers, adjacent ceiling pieces and beams for the stem and stern sheets. The Thwart Risers and Ceilings will be painted so I have chosen not to use nail fasteners. The outer strakes will also be painted. Next will be the Centerboard Trunk and Mast Step.
  13. The frames were finally completed. They were held in place for the PVA glue to dry with a clamp at the gunwale strake and a pin at keel. The thwart risers were also attached with PVA glue at a distance below the top edge of the gunwale strake as indicated on Sheet 2 or the plans. The risers were made from kit supplied 1/16” x 1/4” strips.
  14. Looking really good 😎 Aren’t medicine bottles great. What did we ever do without them?
  15. Arthur, the color scheme is my biggest pondering right now. I know Whaleboats were not always painted the same but each company had their scheme for recognition at sea. The recommended colors are not too bad. Other folks building this model have deviated from this, some completely. Curious, do you have any suggestions as to what you would do? As a matter of fact, I would like others out there to jump in on this.
  16. Started framing and decided to make a jig for spacing the frames. The jig was simply made of blocks, cut to the correct length, glued with Extra Thick CA glue to a 1/32” brass strip. The central portion has no spacers so that the frames can be easily positioned. After marking the central frame using mold three, I proceeded to put the bottom half of the laminated frames in place. I expect a few days of work to finish the frames entirely.
  17. Well, the hull has been built. I noticed a couple of issues which I should have caught and addressed earlier. Looking at the stem from the front, I noticed the strakes below the Sheer are off a bit (the stern was spot on). 😳 The second issue is that the tops of most of the molds do not touch the inboard side of the keel. The latter probably resulted from the fact that I removed the boat from the molds after each strake placement so I could run super thin CA down the seams. Hopefully it will not affect the outcome. Here the Sheer strake is clamped until the glue dries. Below, the Sheer and Gunwale. Below, the boat, retaining battens and molds have been removed from the Horse. Because the boat fits rather loosely, I have decided to do the framing without the molds, etc. Before removing, I will use mold #3 to mark the position of the central frame.
  18. Really looking good. Your heading down the last stretch. I found the final steps as tedious and somewhat time consuming. Have you ever wondered how many builders throw in the towel at this point??? I encourage you to keep up the good work. 😎 I really like your knot board on the wall. Did you make it and do you refer to it?
  19. Not too bad! For some reason I find it a bit slow going. The nice part is that the strakes were laser cut but some needed battens attached to them. Soon the fun begins as 24 frames have to be added.
  20. Strakes #’s 2, 3 and 4 were glued into place using CA glue. In order to keep the glue off the molds, waxed paper was slipped between the strakes and molds. The battens were glued to the strakes with PVA prior to placement. Strake #5 is shown below clamped to the provided clove piece for shaping prior to gluing. So far, no real problems have occurred. 😎

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