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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. Interestingly I have used the plans extensively for building. In the case of the longboat, I rarely used them. There is a great deal of carving to do - which I really enjoy. There will be sails to make and a whole lot of details. Whaleboat gear will probably take as long as I have already spent.
  2. Jonathan and Arthur, thanks for the comments on the colors. Actually the present colors might change slightly. Painted surfaces were used on whaleboats in order to preserve the wood surfaces as much as possible. At present I might paint the thwarts two tone. I am thinking the color of the risers will be extended inward about 1/5th or less of the thwart width on each side. The rest would be a dark brown similar to the stain shown in most of my recent photos. (See the first photo in my last post entry above where I painted just a bit of the first thwart the riser color.) The only change I might consider is to paint the entire thwart the dark brown. I have been spending a lot of time studying different color schemes and have gone back and forth with different ones several times. Any suggestions on thwart colors which I have discussed above are welcomed.
  3. Bow chocks were cut from 1/4” x 1/8” stock and glued in place. Also a cleat for the center board lifting rod was cut from scrap and glued in place. In the first photo notice the completed Thigh Board. In the photos you can also notice the small copper nails in place on the thwart knees and Thigh Board. The nails are made of copper and are 0.5 mm x 0.6 mm.
  4. Well, I found that I had done the thwart knees wrong on half of the thwarts and so I redid them. In addition, I worked on the Thigh Board and the Mast Tabernacle. Shown below is the start of the Mast Chute. The Mast Hinge was constructed from the photo etched sheet and bent into shape using round nosed pliers. The hinge pins were made from 1/32" brass rod. The Mast Tabernacle was drawn and then cut from 3/32" a basswood sheet. The Thigh Board was completed by adding leather to the Clumsy Cleat; adding the Kicking Strap; and adding the Lance Tails.
  5. I am also wanting to do smaller boats which don’t take a lot of time to build. If I do all the smaller build kits, I may try scratch building one.
  6. Three Thwarts and their Knees essentially finished. Yet to decide if I want to paint the center of Thwarts. I kind of like the look as is right now. We’ll see. Anyway, one and a half Thwarts to go. As a break in the action, I worked on the Box, Cuddy Board and Lion’s Tongue. Then I added a bit of paint to check out the color scheme. After looking at the photo below, I see the unstained Thwart may need straightening. Interesting how photos sometimes reveal things you miss otherwise. I will check in out tomorrow.
  7. One Thwart and its Knees in place. I find this process is very slow but the laminate procedure seems to work out well. Ready for the next one. I am using Minwax Golden Oak Stain. I may paint the center portion of the Thwarts dark brown or black I will wait and see how the whole boat comes together before I make a decision on this.
  8. Arthur, The Thwarts, Thigh Board and Cuddy will be stained light oak. Maybe the Thwarts will have black or dark brown centers. Not sure what I want to do yet. I think the Centerboard Case will remain blue.
  9. Arthur, she looks absolutely wonderful. I am struck by how much great detail you put into her. Congratulations and I hope your move go well.
  10. Finally got the stem and stern sheets done and in the process discovered that I got the Sheet beams set a bit too high above the keel. When installing them, I measured on the plans from the Inwale down to the top of the beams and ended up putting the bottom of the beams at that position on the boat. This resulted in the Sheets being wider than the plans and an interesting herringbone pattern which I kinda like. Anyway, the height of the Sheets increase as a result of this mistake would only amount to about two inches on the prototype. After the Sheets were made, they were stained. Then I painted the inside of the boat. The Gunwales will be black.
  11. I would say that scratch building oars is the best option as it seems easier and less time consuming. Good job.
  12. Thanks John - I have a question which you might answer. When the Gunwale and Inwale stripes are in place, is there any additional cap rail strip which needs to be added? I do not find any reference to it in the manual or on build logs. However, in the parts list there are strips designated as for cap strips and sheets.
  13. I just found your log. Absolutely nice build and welcome to MSW.
  14. Hah, I did make a change of plans on the paint scheme. After researching museum pieces and reading several articles, what I was proposing was within historical accuracy. However, I found some interesting paint schemes which I liked better than my first one. As of now I am thinking about the following: Hull to Sheer - White Rub Rail - Black Sheer - Red Gunwale/Inwale - Black Wales, Thwart Risers and Thwarts - Buff Ceilings - Light Blue Stem and Stern Sheets - Light Oak Stain After I make the Sheets, I plan to paint the interior so I will be heading into several days without posting.
  15. Arthur, Hurry up and finish the longboat. Then you can get started and catch up with me on this one. LOL I have the Inwales, Gunwales and roller in place. And now I am getting very close to color decisions time. Right now I am leaning toward the following: Hull to Sheer - Dark Green Rub Rail - Black Sheer - White Gunwale/Inwale - Black From Inwale to first ceiling plank - Light Green or ? Ceilings - Gray Thwarts - Light Brown & Black ? All else - Natural or Stained And of course I reserve the right to change my mind.
  16. Very nice Arthur. I like your innovative procedure and final look. You are actually getting yourself ready for scratch building. Just curious as to how long it took to make one oar. After a couple were made and I had the procedure in hand, I was able to carve one out in less than 30 minutes. I used to be afraid of carving but now it is actually one of my most favorite things to do. Either way yours look great and you have provided an excellent alternative to a lot of carving.
  17. Yes it has some new interesting challenges for me to learn to overcome. This one is definitely helping me learn new skills which should be helpful for more complicated builds. I am glad I went this route. As I read ahead, I see that there are several more learning curves facing me.
  18. First cut was deep enough to include the rabbet cut for the gunwales The second was cut parallel to the drawn line to form the outboard side of the Cheek. The rabbet cut was then shaped to give a fit. Finally the scarf was made for the inwale.
  19. I have taken a different approach and think I am on the right track now. I will post my results when finished.
  20. I see how cardstock would work great fro 2D; however, the Cheek pieces have a complicated 3D twist with scarfs. I think I can get the scarfs OK if I can get the basic twists down. I can probably used cardstock to get the proper length and height of the Cheek and then do some carving on the resulting block. I will continue working on it - trial and error. If other builders of the MS NBW have scale drawings of the Cheeks, I would appreciate any help.

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