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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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  1. The second laminate layers were assembled and glued. The upper and lower keels were positioned and glued to the laminate layers at the stem and stern.Next, the keel lips and laminate bevels were smoothed at the kerf joints. Then the garboards were beveled on the upper outboard edge, soaked in 50/50 alcohol/water, fitted to the molds and keels, allowed to dry and glued in place using medium and super thin CA glue.
  2. John, I really like what you are doing with your Longboat. She’s going to be a good looking boat.
  3. Assembled and glued first laminated keel pieces for stem and stern. Next a copy of top and bottom center keel board templates were glued to 3/64”x1/2” and 5/64”x1/2” boards and trimmed. Only the lower layer has the center board slot cut at this time. The first layer laminate pieces were beveled and the kerf cut. Glued paper is easily removed with application of some alcohol
  4. Finally got the molds fastened to horses and horses fastened to construction board. I should have studied the plans a bit more carefully as I glued the fore and aft horses to the cap strip. I don’t think it will pose too much of a problem as they should be fairly easily cut away.
  5. This is my second build log on this site and it is my first POF. There are excellent build logs for the New Bedford Whaleboat here (Carlmb, Mike-In-Ri, Rbohlman, Senior-Old-Salt, Soup591, Ziled68) and elsewhere (https://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html). As a result of this, I will post progress pictures and make only brief comments where necessary to point out peculiarities found during my build. First the kit: Marked waterlines on profile mold. Fitted section molds. Cut notch in cap strip. Fitted with cap strip. Glued cap strips and section molds to profile mold.
  6. Hello Tony, I think you are doing a super job on this build. I am impressed by your workmanship and techniques. Your log is great. You know, there are so many tricks of the trade for achieving sometimes very difficult results on a particular step that I wished someone could put together a compendium of all these techniques. Oh well! Keep up the very good work. 😎 Paul
  7. Arthur, I have decided to put the KC on hold for now as I have decided to do the New Bedford Whaleboat. This is a POF build and should be fun and not take two plus years to complete. I am leaning toward projects which can be completed in a reasonable amount of time so that frustration with teadium does not set in. A near example of this was rigging the Cutty Sark model that I had from my younger years. It took a long time and involved a lot of repetitive actions. I wanted to finish it and bore through it all. A POF build should offer some new challenges and be instructive.
  8. Dave, thanks for the article list. I have not purchased the NRG Model Ship Builder and Ships-in-Scale archives as of yet. Do you know if any of these articles you mentioned contain more information on building techniques than, say, Chuck’s practicum on the Sultana?
  9. Tiger, I’m glad others might be able to be of some value from our work. In the same way, I hope to benefit from others for my next build. That’s the real beauty of MSW logs - what goes around, comes around. I hope your build goes smoothly. 😎 Paul
  10. Is it possible to use chemical aging by applying Metal Black with a Q-tip or brush after the copper is applied? I would not want to have the glue run or loosen the plates,
  11. I wonder why the included instruction manuals still favor carving the bulwarks and refer to cutting them off only as an option? Is it perhaps just left over from another age?? It seems that the carving machines could be easily refigured or else perhaps they made a big run some time ago and have a big stock.
  12. Thank you Jaager and Betaqdave, I believe you have laid a good case for cutting the bulwarks off. I was somewhat hesitant to do this as it seemed drastic and definite. Do either of you or does anyone in the community have a copy of the articles Betaqdave mentioned who could make me a copy since I am sure they are no longer in print? I would also be willing to purchase a copy of the magazines. Thanks again for your help as I will probably cut them off.
  13. I am considering building the Model Shipways Kate Cory. I have looked at a number of logs and Model Shipways model ship instructions and practicums and find two approaches to carving. They are to either leave the bulwarks on and carve away or cut them off at the start and add them later. The practicum on the Sultana is fairly clear that the bulwarks on the raw hull should be taken off. The Kate Cory instructions say cutting bulwarks off is an option. The Phantom, Dapper Tom and Elsie don't seem to mention an option. My question is this, from experienced solid hull builders, what is the easiest and/or best approach to to take? My previous experience with solid hull builds was an old Scientific Models Cutty Sark which had no bulwarks on the raw hull.
  14. Yes they are. I have the Kate Cory which had a badly milled solid hull which they just replaced. This probably will be my next build especially since it was given to me by my son-in-law. 😎
  15. Thank you Ken. I appreciate your design work on this kit. I hope many others will enjoy this build as well.
  16. I want to thank everyone who looked in on this build as your comments and encouragements were greatly appreciated. I want to especially thank Arthur for his help as we both moved through this build. I also appreciate Chuck letting me use his friezes to replace the photo etches. This has been a fun and valuable learning journey for my first POB build. I want to encourage other beginners to try this boat or Chuck's Longboat as you can finish them in reasonable time and learn much. 😎
  17. 18th Century Armed Longboat - Model Shipways - Started build March 17, 2019 and finished July 14, 2019 . The kit was modified using ideas from the Medway Longboat (1742) plank on frame group project started by Chuck Passaro. This build was POB.

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