abelson

Continuing with build, I rigged the Top Mast Stay Sail sheets (.012”). The sheets have a 1/8" single clump block with a .012” pendant (.016” called out on Sheet 5). The fall is .012” rope (.014” on plan). One end is seized to the main top mast shroud and the other end is reeved through a 1/8” single block seized to the same shroud as depicted on Sheet 5. I set up sheets based on my interpretation of how they might appear with the top mast staysail furled. The falls are belayed to pin 56 P&S on the pin rail. Next, I rigged the Fore Royal backstays. I used .012” black rope. The plan calls for .010” which is not furnished. Fashioned a simple eye that slipped over the royal mast and seized a 3/32” single block to the end of the rope. Per the plans. The tackle was made with .008” rope. The tackle fall is belayed to cleat 39 P&S. I like to belay the lines temporarily in case they need adjustment. It’s now time to add the bowsprit that was fashioned early on in the build (January 23, 2023 post) Note: The bowsprit has a cleat P&S for belaying the royal stay back rope fall. The cleats have to be removed so that the bowsprit can pass through the bulwarks and added after. I used the kit suppled cleats and painted them black. I used .018” rope for the gammoning. The plan calls for .020” which is not furnished. Completed the Fore Stay and Fore Preventer Stay. I used .045" Syren line for the Fore Stay and .035" Syren line for the Fore Preventer Stay. The Fore Stay and the Fore Preventer Stay each have a 7mm Syren closed heart and lanyard (.018”) attached to a laser cut open heart with a double collar (previously installed) lashed around the Bowsprit. Note: The plans do not call out the size of the closed hearts for the Stays. The laser cut closed hearts scale roughly 3/16” (4.8mm). I used 7mm instead of 5mm closed hearts because I thought 5mm closed hearts looked out of scale with the open hearts. I reeved the lanyard through the hearts and tied it off on the upper lashing of the heart. Note: In the following photos, the Spritsail Yard Lifts were previously added. per the Plan At Bowsprit on Sheet 5. The falls pass through the fearlead holes in the chock rail and are belayed to pin 1 P&S at the bow pin rail. Looking at the Plan At Bowsprit, I'm reminded that I need to add the Jib Boom Outhaul Tackle to my To-Do List. I Progressing, I rigged the Fore Stay Halliard (.012”). Seized a 1/8” single block to the fore stay throat. Tied the standing end of the halliard to the stay throat. The halliard is reeved through an 1/8” single block with hook and the 1/8” block seized to the stay throat and is belayed to pin 14 at the forward fife rail. Rigged the fore staysail bolt rope and downhaul. The downhaul (.008”) is seized to a ring that is attached to the single block hook and is reeved through a thimble on the bolt rope and the 1/8” downhaul block and grommet on the bowsprit as shown on Sheet 5. The downhaul passes through a fairlead hole in the chock rail and is belayed to pin 2 at the bow pin rail (not added yet). The bolt rope (.008”) is a continuous rope that is reeved trough the downhaul ring and tied off at the grommet. Note: I wasn’t sure what to do with the bolt rope ends so I just tied them off. Rigged the fore stay sail sheets. The sheets have a 1/8” single clump block, .018” pendent, and .012” downhaul seized to an eyebolt in the waterway and belayed to cleat 10 P&S. Like the top mast stay sail sheets, correct or not, I set up the sheets based on my interpretation of how the sheets might appear with the fore staysail furled. Last progress items, I rigged the two Bobstays followed by the Outer Jib Stay. I used .035” Syren rope for the bobstays (plan calls for .031”). The stays are double lines and are set up with 1/8” hearts and .018” Syren rope lanyard (plan calls for .016”). I used 7mm hearts purchased from Syren Ship Company. The outer jib stay is .018” rope (plan calls for .020”). The outer jib stay passes through the dumb sheave in the jib boom and is set up with a 1/8” double block with hook, a 9/32” fiddle block (purchased from Syren) and .012” fall that is belayed to itself. The double block is hooked to an eyebolt on the port side of the bowsprit cap. Up next on the To-Do List, the Inner and Outer Jib Stay halliards, downhauls, and sheets.

Congratulations. Nicely done.

Before stepping the main royal yard, I decided to add the main topgallant stay. I used .018” rope and fashioned a simple eye that slipped over the royal mast. The plan calls for .020” rope which is not furnished with the kit. The stay reeves through the collar with thimble on the fore top mast and is set up with a fiddle block (not furnished) and tackle as per Detail 5-D on Sheet 5. The tackle fall is belayed to itself. I used a 11/32” fiddle block and .012” rope for the fall, each purchased from Syren Ship Model Company. I added the 1/8” single block (plan calls for 3/32”) and grommet for the topgallant stay sail down haul. Sheet 5 is not clear where/how the block and grommet is attached. I chose to attach it to the collar thimble. Rigged the main top gallant stay hallard (.012” tan) and the downhaul (.008” tan). Seized a thimble (3/32” split ring) to the downhaul as shown on Sheet 5. The halliard is reeved through the 3/32” single block at the royal mast and is belayed to pin 67 on the port side. The downhaul is tacked around the topgallant stay lead down to fore top and is reeved through the eye at the 3/32” single block, the eye at the end of the halliard, the thimble seized to the downhaul and the 3/32” block and is belayed to pin 24 on the port side of the forward fife rail. Stepped the main royal yard in the lowered position. Made the halliard (.010”) as per detail 6-E. The halliard is belayed to the main top mast sheer pole at the lower top. Rigged the main royal yard clew lines (.008”). Each clew line is seized to the cringle at the top gallant yard clump block, is reeved through the single block on the royal yard and is belayed to the sheer pole at the lower top. o The main royal yard lifts (,008”) were rigged next. The lifts are fixed and are not draped because the royal yard is lowered. Decided to rig the main royal backstays before rigging the main royal stay. I used .012” black rope for the back stay and the royal stay. The plan calls for .010” which is not furnished. Seized a 1/8” single block to each backstay (plan calls for 3/32”). The tackles were made with .008” tan rope. The tackle fall is belayed to cleat 74 P&S. Lastly, the main royal stay was rigged. The royal stay (.012”) is reeved through the collar and thimble at the fore top mast hounds and is set up with a thimble and a lanyard (.008”) and an eye bolt on the starboard side of the fore top as per DetaiL 5-F. Next up, fore royal yard, clew lines, and lifts.

Thank you for the compliment. It means a lot. The rigging may not be accurate but it's my interpretation of the plans, which leave you guessing in some places.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Stepped the fore topgallant yard. Used a .012” rope parrel. Fashioned the lashing for the topgallant tye using .018” black rope. Rigged the tye (.018”) and Halliard (.012”) as per Detail 6-D. Added the 3/32” clump blocks for the topgallant lifts (plan calls for 1/16” blocks which are not furnished). Seized the 1/8” single blocks to the topgallants shrouds as shown in the detail below the topgallant yard on Sheet 6. The plan calls 5/64” blocks which are not furnished with the kit. These blocks are for the topgallant bunt/leech lines. Completed the following rigging: Fore topsail yard clew lines (.008”). Seize to eye at topsail lift block. Passes through 3/32” double block shared with royal sheet. Belayed to pin 30 P&S at the pin rail. Passes through fairlead bar. Fore Topgallant yard bunt lines/leech lines (.012”). Passes through 5/64” block seized in shroud. Belayed to pin 29 P&S at the pin rail. Passes through fairlead bar. Fore topgallant yard lifts (.012”). Passes through thimble seized in shroud. Belayed to pin 33 P&S at the pin rail. Fore royal yard sheets (.008”). Passes through double block shared with clew line. Belayed to pin 34 P&S at the pin rail. Next up, step the royal yards.

Started on the topgallant yards. I realized I didn't have enough parrel beads. I had previously ordered 1.5mm parrel beads from the Crafty Sailor. Apparently, they are no longer in business. I have not been successful in finding a supplier of 1.5mm wood beads. I researched the Model Shipways forum on Parrel Beads but didn’t find anything helpful there. So, I’m going to step the topgallant yards with a rope parrel. Stepped the main topgallant yard. Used a .012” rope parrel. Fashioned the lashing for the topgallant tye using .018” black rope. Rigged the tye (.018”) and Halliard (.012”) as per Detail 6-D. While studying the plans, I discovered that I had missed the 1/16” single clump blocks for the topgallant lifts. There is an enlarged detail of the clump block on the Main Mast Looking Aft on Sheet 6. I used 3/32” blocks because the kit is not furnished with 1/16” blocks. Completed the following rigging: Main topsail yard clew lines (.012”). Seize to eye at topsail lift block. Passes through 3/32” double block shared with royal sheet. Belayed to pin 64 P&S at the pin rail. Main Topgallant yard bunt lines/leech lines (.012”). Passes through 5/64” block seized in shroud. Belayed to pin 64 P&S at the pin rail. Main topgallant yard lifts (.012”). Passes through thimble seized in shroud. Belayed to pin 66 P&S at the pin rail. Main topgallant yard sheets (.008”). Passes through double block shared with clew line. Belayed to pin 69 P&S at the pin rail. Note: I find that it is easier to belay the ropes if I run them through the belaying pin holes in the pin rail and to then insert the belaying pins. The kit furnished walnut belaying pins were filed down slightly to fit into the holes. Whence the rope coils are added it won’t be noticeable that the ropes pass though the pin rail holes. Next up, repeat the process for the fore topgallant yard.

Thanks, Jason. Review my Fair American build log. It may be helpful.

I forgot to add a 5/32” single block P&S on the fore most shroud at the main mast for the reef tackle. The Main Mast Looking Aft on Sheet 6 shows this block. The main course yard reef tackle is belayed to pin 58 P&S at the pin rail. Note: The pin location is not identified on the Main Mast Looking Aft but is noted in the Belying Plan. Stepped the main topsail yard. I added the bead parrel to the batten as per Detail 6-B and mounted the topsail yard to the main mast in the lowered position. Completed the following rigging: Main topsail yard Tye & Halliard (.018”) a la the fore topsail yard (see post #107). The halliards set up with a tackle and are belayed to pin 71 P&S on the pin rail. Main course yard clew lines (.018”). Belayed to pin 49 P&S at the aft fife rail. Main course yard bunt lines (.012”). Belayed to pin 61P&S at the pin rail. Main course yard leech lines (.012”). Belayed to pin 62P&S at the pin rail. Main course yard reef lines (.018”). Belayed to pin 62P&S at the pin rail. Main topsail yard bunt lines (.012”). Belayed to pin 42 P&S at the main mast. Main topsail yard leech lines (.012"). Belayed to pin 43 P&S on the main mast. Main topsail yard reef tackles per Detail 6-F. I used .012” rope. The reef tackles pass through the yard sheave and the upper block in the top mast shroud and are set up with a tackle belayed to itself. Main topgallant sheets (.012”). Belayed to pin 60 P&S at the pin rail. Seized a small ring (cringle) on the end of the rope at the block seized into the topsail lift. The cringle is for the topsail clew which will be added when the main topgallant yard is stepped. Main topsail yard lifts (.018”). The lefts pass through the lower block seized in the top mast shroud and belay to pin 57 P&S at the pin rail. Here are some photos. Next up, the Topgallant Yards.

Completed the crane lines (shroud foot ropes). Used .012” rope. The replica ship has 5 foot ropes at the main mast and 3 ropes at the fore mast (see photo). I cut out a copy of the detail on Sheet 5 and used it as a guide to get the spacing of eyebolts on the masts. I drilled a hole P&S at each location. I didn’t eye splice the ropes (too difficult), just tied a simple half knot. Suggestion: Add the eyebolts before stepping the masts.

Rigged the main topgallant mast shrouds (.018” rope) and rat lines (.008” rope). Added 1/16” single blocks (P&S) to the fore shroud near the hounds as shown in Detail 6-A. The blocks are for the fore royal yard braces. Added the 3/32” single block at the hounds for the Topgallant Stay Halliard. Rigged the Topgallant Back Stays. I used .018” rope (the plan calls for .016”), and .008” rope for the lanyard. Stepped the main course yard. Rigged the .012” lanyard for the course yard sling and the course yard truss per Detail 6-G. Rigged the main lower yard lifts as per Detail 6-C. The lift tackles are belayed to pin 50 P&S at the aft fife rail. Used .018” rope for lifts. Rigged the main topsail sheets with .018” rope. The sheets are belayed to pin 46 P&S at the aft fife rail. Note: While studying the Main Mast Looking Aft on Sheet 6, I realized that I forgot to run the rigging lines through the fairlead bars as noted on Sheet 5. The plans aren’t clear which lines run through the fairlead bars. Looking at photos of the replica ship, it appears that there are 8 lines that run through the fore fairlead bars and 4 lines that run through the main fairlead bars (see photos). Presumably, the lines are the main course braces , main topsail braces, fore course buntlines, fore course leechlines, fore topgallant buntlines, fore topgallant clew lines, and the main top gallant braces which are belayed at the fore most pin rail, and the main topgallant stay sail sheets, main topgallant sheets, main course, buntlines, main course leechlines, fore royal braces, main topgallant clew lines and bunt lines, and spanker throat Hilliard which are belayed at the second pin rail forward of the stern. Going forward, I will attempt to run the various lines (.008" and .012") through the fairleads - lines greater than .012" will not pass through the fairlead bar. Next up, I'm considering adding the crane lines (shroud footropes) shown on Sheet 6.

Continuing with the fore topsail yard, I added the bead parrel to the batten as per Detail 6-B and mounted the topsail yard to the fore mast in the lowered position. Note: I raised the yard so that the foot ropes clear the top mast cap - just a preference. Also, the kit is not furnished with the beads for the parrel. I ordered them from Crafty Sailor (I believe they are no longer in business). Studied Sheet 6 before embarking on fore topsail yard rigging. Removed the bowsprit for fear of snagging it while rigging the fore topsail yard - highly recommended. Rigged the topsail Tye & Halliard per Detail 6-B. Used Syren .018” rope (plan calls for .020”) and .012” rope (plan calls for .014”) for the halliards. The halliards are belayed to pin 37 P&S on the pin rail. Setup the Topgallant Backstays (.018 rope) with 1/16" bullseyes and .008” lanyard. Rigged the fore topsail yard Bunt lines and Leech lines. I used Syren .012” rope (plan calls for .014”). Fig.9-12 in the Instruction Manual says these lines are knotted off or omitted if the there is no sail or furled sail. Instead of knotting off the leech and bunt lines, I seize a small ring to the end of each rope for passing the reef tackle. The bunt lines are belayed to cleat 12 P&S on the Fore mast. The leech lines are belayed to pin 18 P&S on the fore fife rail. I left the lines slack until the fore course yard Clew Lines are rigged and securely belayed. Rigged the fore course yard Clewlines and the fore topsail yard Sheets as per the Main Mast Looking Aft on Sheet 6. I used .018” rope for the clewlines and .012" rope for the sheets. The clewlines are belayed to pin 20 P&S on the fore fife rail. The Sheets are belayed to pin 19 P&S on the fore fife rail. I seized a small ring to the end of the sheet rope for the top sail yard Clewlines (to be rigged later). Lastly, I rigged the fore topsail yard Reef Tackles as per Detail 6-F. I used Syren .012” rope. Next up, the main topgallant royal mast shrouds.

Steve, I have not yet rigged the outer jib stay tackle. I only added the 1/8" double block which is hooked to the lower eyebolt on the port side of the bowsprit cap. The .014" "fall" is attached to the fiddle block and is reeved through the double block and through the lower sheeve of the fiddle block and then back through the double block and the upper sheeve of the fiddle block and then "belayed to itself" as shown in Fig. 8-6 in the Instruction Manual. I presume the access to the jib stay tackle was via the manropes netting.

Thanks so much for the compliments. I'm glad you find the build log helpful - that's the intent. I frequently study the plans and make a to-do-list. Sometimes I'll make a sketch to help visualize and clarify certain rigging. I frequently review other build logs, albeit there aren't many. I also find photos of the replica ship by Rick Wise helpful (www.fourmilephotography.com/FlagshipNiagara). My approach is to be methodical and sequence the work so as not to interfere with completed work, especially rigging. One of the problems in advancing the build, particularly the bowsprit, is to not snag something, which is easy to do. I try to be very conscious and cautious about that. I'm almost 24 months into this build. As the old proverb says, "slow and steady wins the race." Keep on sailing.