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Henke

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    Norrkoping, Sweden

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  1. Hi all, I have to make a clarification on the post above. Y.T. also has a very nice build log on the Mamoli Victory. If you take a look there Rob you will see how Y.T. solved the "stern problem". Y.T. is also very good at planking. Regards Henrik
  2. Morning Rob; at least it is morning for me when I write this. I do not want to dishearten you but I think you need to take a step back and re-think because otherwise planking the stern will be difficult. I had a recollection seeing something on this problem with the Mamoli kit before and after some search on the MSW I found it. Y.T. did a post on this in April last year under the section "Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ship's hull and deck". I have no personal experience from the Mamoli kit but I think you should try to see if there are pictures from other Victory Mamoli build logs to see how this problem can be solved or contact Y.T. Kind regards Henrik
  3. The bottle is empty and progress has been slow. Is there a connection 🙂? But now, first planking is finished! Being first time with such a big boat I am reasonably happy with the result. Filler, sanding, filler, sanding, sanding and more standing will start now. I am now almost 6 months into the build. Kind regards Henrik
  4. Thanks for all kind comments. You make me nervous. I know your capabilities. Yes, I have checked some of your builds and mine will not come up to your standard..... Here is a picture as of today. I did not like the Tamiya deck tan. It looks so flat. I therefore did some weathering brushing the deck with a wash of turpentine and Vallejo pigment Natural iron oxide (too strong unfortunately). I have to tone it down but that is OK. Guns are not weathered yet. I will do some ongoing weathering as the build continues. I am sorry for the messy table. Regards Henrik
  5. Hi JamesT1, Welcome to the Agamemnon club. Aggy is a very nice kit which will keep you occupied for many years if you have the stamina 🙂. You are a couple of months after my Aggy but with my slow building tempo you will probably pass me soon. As Stuart aka stuglo mentioned above, plans require much forethought (Not just this kit but all...) and sometimes instructions should not be followed. May I therefore suggest that you wait gluing the rudder post and aft keel strip until you have thinned down the false keel towards the rudder post and aft part of the keel strip. The false keel plywood has the same thickness as the rudder post (about 5 mm). When she is planked (double) you want nice transition between planking and rudder post and keel strip. First planking is 1,5 mm on each side and second 1 mm on each side. Towards the rudder post I would suggest that the false keel is gradually thinned down to towards 1 mm for the last 10-20 mm. Once at least first planking is finished you can glue on the rudder post and do the finishing touches to the transition between second planking and rudder post. I also post an earlier picture from my Agamemnon build to show what I mean. If you already have glued the the rudder post and keel strip to the false keel, take a sharp chisel and carefully separate the parts. I did it and it worked fine without causing irreparable damage to rudder post or aft keel strip. I do not know why this is not explained in the instructions but maybe this is the wicked way the manufacturers differentiate the professional builders from us other ignorant amateurs by omitting useful information 🙂. Regards Henrik
  6. In my youth I had a wish, buying a dragon in scale 1:1 but the dream never realized. It looks so fantastic in real life. I was not aware that Corel had a model of this beautiful sailing boat. Good luck Jim! Regards, Henrik
  7. Here comes another report from captain Slow. Since last post I have started a new employment and the Grand(e) Admiral has ordered me shore leave in order to clear parts of our house before a major rebuild which will start in a couple of weeks 😓. There has not been that much time for modelling although I now and then has managed to sneak out to the garage/shipyard. A couple of sessions with the airbrush has resulted in this. The hull red has a basic black shading which I was looking for with a sort of grimy look. It is Prince of Wales as she looked arriving to Singapore December 1941 I am aiming for, not newly painted in the dry dock. The grey also has some nice shade variation although it is not very clear from the picture. I think I will start with the deck and super structure before I continue with the camouflage of the hull and weathering. Regards Henrik
  8. Yes, I know. I have a tendency for mumbling around. "Come to the point!" as my impatient children and wife use to complain. Here is the box: It is neatly packed, not too many parts and well organized as usual with Tamiya. As you can see I had already started with the gun turrets when I took the picture. The molding is not the best compared to modern kits but much better than many of my beloved Airfix kits of the 1970s 🙂. My plan is to paint PoW in the camouflage pattern she had when she arrived in Singapore on her last mission in 1941. I have seen black and white pictures where the painting looks very worn and roughly painted. I will try to mimic this on my model. The hull in its self has very little detail on it. I have drilled out the port holes with my finest Dremel drill and airbrushed a flat black ground colour. Today I have airbrushed the first thin light gray tone above the water line. The idea is to let the black give a shade variation both on the light gray as well as the "hull red" below the water line to get a more busy look. Before the camouflage is applied I am considering using salt to get a sort of worn appearance. On top of the light gray I will apply a little bit of salt on water and let it dry. Then I will paint on the camouflage and then carefully scrub away a little bit of colour with a wet sponge. I have tried this on airplane kits with good result. The scale of this model is different. Will it work? Are there any other suggestions? Regards Henrik
  9. This will be my first MSW build log “in plastic”. I first want to be clear that this build will be “out of the box”. There will be no aftermarket wood, PE, resin or brass. The purpose of this build is pure glue galore and using MSW to improve my weathering skills and try to do simple improvements on a cheap model. The Tamiya model is quite old and dates to 1980s, I think. I bought it cheaply a couple of years ago and have had in the stash ever since. The battleship HMS Prince of Wales had a short and dramatic active service period. HMS Prince of Wales took part in the battle of the Denmark Straits against Bismarck and Prinz Eugen, hosted the conference between Churchill and Roosevelt at Newfoundland and was tragically sunk by Japanese planes outside Malaysia, all this in period of less than seven months in 1941. Although I prefer wooden ship models, plastic has its charm. Building a ship in plastic brings me on a trip down the memory lane. My first model ship was a torpedo boat which had an electric motor driving the propeller. I played with it in the bathtub practicing torpedo attacks towards my younger brother. The second kit was a pirate’s ship in black plastic which I think I built in 1973 or 1974. I do not remember the manufacturer. I do not think it had an archetype from real life. It looked more like something from a Disney movie, but the model was very intriguing. One detail I remember was that it had shrouds with ratlines in injection moulded plastic. My third ship was Wasa by Airfix which I got for Christmas in 1975. Wasa was a lot more advanced than the previous pirate’s ship and had shrouds with ratlines in sheets of threaded material which you cut out with a pair of scissors. Wasa came with sails in creamy yellow thin and brittle plastic. At that time, I always followed the building instruction and meticulously used all the material included in the box although the model looked much better without the sails. All my friends at that time built Wasa and we compared our building results. Some of us did better than others. Next ship was HMS Victory which I got as a birthday present in 1976. I wanted the 1:180 Airfix version but was given a model in a slightly smaller scale from another manufacturer (Revell?) and thus probably cheaper than the big Airfix version. For some reason I seem to remember that Christmas presents used to be more lavish than the birthday presents. Another disappointment with my Victory was that many of the cannon ports of the hull were moulded closed. What is the point of building HMS Victory if you cannot see all the cannons? I remember my parents had a book about HMS Victory which I studied. It was in English, a language which I did not understand much of at that time, but in it was a picture indicating where Lord Nelson had stood when he was shot during the battle of Trafalgar. I painted a pool of blood on the deck of my model with Humbrol number 19 (bright red gloss) indicating the misfortune of Lord Nelson. My interest then turned towards ships from WW2. First, I built Admiral Graf Spee (Airfix), then HMS Nelson (Airfix) and finally Bismarck (Airfix). My first plastic modelling era ended with the build of Golden Hind (Airfix). This time I ignored using the creamy yellow sails. My fixation to the Airfix kits probably has to do with their fantastic box art of the 1970s. My inaccurate notion for Airfix kits from the 1970s being the pinnacle of plastic modelling was not changed until my wife gave me a modern Tamiya kit 25 years later. 1970s now turned into 1980s and my interests focussed on other things than plastic model kits. University studies, marriage and a beginning working career eventually brought me and my wife to northern England (Cumbria) for a couple of years in the early 2000s. Cumbria is known for its mountains, sheep, rainy weather and beautiful lakes where the rain eventually pools up. During the first rainy and dark winter there, I felt I needed a hobby and, in a town, called Kendal I found a model shop displaying a re-boxed Airfix version of Wasa. I was hooked. Gone where the creamy yellow plastic sails and shrouds and ratlines were made using gigs which were included in the kit. It turned into a decent model and for nostalgic reasons I painted the decorations according to the erroneous Airfix instructions from the 1970s. Ever since this second Wasa build I now and then dabble in plastics although I now prefer wood. HMS Prince of Wales is my first ship in plastics since my second Wasa almost 20 years ago. Off we go! Regards Henrik
  10. Fantastic work Martin. I like the cathar pins. How did you fix them to the shrouds? Regards Henrik
  11. Welcome to MSW, Woodartist. This a very friendly forum where questions can be asked and advice will come quickly. At this early stage be vigilant for any warping and try to correct before continuing. It could be my eyes, but on your last picture it looks as if there is some kind of warping, but maybe that picture was taken before you relieved the pressure from the flooring. By the way, it looks as if you have borrowed my mitre box whilst I was asleep tonight. This arrangement is probably OK since you are living with 8 h time zone behind me but I want it back now because I plan to spend the day at my shipyard today 🙂. Kind regards Henrik
  12. I think the bow/arc is caused by too much tension in the crowsfeet in relation to the tension in forestay preventer attaching to the fore mast. Maybe it is difficult release tension in crowsfeet but when the main top mast stay is in place it will pull the foremast backwards. What if you pull the foremast back below the trestle tree? Does the bow/arc improve? We want a nice tension in the crowsfeet without any sagging but the angle/bend of the forestay preventer should be small compared to the angle between crowsfeet and forestay preventer. If we look at this as a mechanic problem there are three forces which act on the point where the crowsfeet connect to the forestay preventer. Fa is the force in the forestay preventer towards the bowsprit, Fb the force in the upper part of the forestay preventer stay connecting to the foremast and Fc which is the force in the crowsfeet. What we want is an angle alpha much smaller than the angle beta. The only forces which act in the y-direction are Fb and Fc. Applying Newton's first law one can prove that Fc/Fb=sin (alpha)/sin (beta) I would try to increase Fb (tension in the forestay preventer attaching to the foremast). I hope I have not been too long-winded. The NRG motto is "Advancing Ship Modeling Through Research" 🙂. Thanks Ian for posting. This will help me when I eventually reach rigging of my Agamemnon. Regards Henrik
  13. Hi Ian, This looks really good. Could you please post a close-up picture of the fixing of the crowsfeet the fore preventer stay? In Allan Sandercott's build log http://www.sandercott.ca/modelships/agamemnon/agamemnon_build_page7.php there is a picture of the crowsfeet attachment to the preventer stay. Is it possible to create a little bit more tension in the preventer stay by applying a bit more pulling force from the upper end of the preventer stay? The "arc/bow" is created too little force taken by the preventer stay above where the crowsfeet are attached too the preventer stay compared to what is taken through the crowsfeet. If you can achieve this the tensile force elongation in the upper part of the preventer stay above the the crowsfeet attachment will take off force from the crowsfeet. This was difficult to explain. I will try make an illustration. I will come back on this. I have to go to work now ☹️. Regards Henrik
  14. Jörgen, you have a fantastic attention for details. It is really inspiring to see! Regards Henrik
  15. Thanks for the information Robert. 1:48 may explain my question about the tapering of planks towards the stern. May I suggest, and this is sounding as if I am a moderator of this forum, which I am not 🙂, that you to your title of the log add manufacturer and scale (although it is not mandatory) according to: How to Name your build log? We have a "Build Log Naming Convention" to enable the Search Engine to sort them Alphabetically by "Ship's Name" and/or "Builder's Name". We urge you to follow the guidelines below to make this work properly. If you don't, a Moderator will do it for you anyway - so you may as well get it right first time and save us the trouble. To Edit your Build Log Title - simply go to the FIRST post of your Build Log and click on the Edit button in the bottom-right corner. The Title Box is at the top in the Edit Box. This is how your Build Log Title must be set up for Static Wooden Ship Kits : HMS Victory by Fred Bloggs - Caldercraft - Scale 1:75 - 1805 as she appeared after Trafalgar - First wooden ship build The first section in RED is MANDATORY and must be done EXACTLY as shown to enable correct Sorting by the Search facility. Use your Username exactly as it is registered. Note there are SPACES either side of the dash following your Username. I am now a follower of your log (don't feel the pressure). Remember that we are very friendly and positive at MSW. Questions can be asked and advice will be given. Hang on now Robert! Kind regards Henrik

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