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    Norrkoping, Sweden

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  1. Per (Nirvana) and others, The last two month I have been focusing on the second planking of my other build, Agamemnon. There are only a couple of details left on Hood (and this diorama idea I have....). For some reason the last small details are often to me the most difficult things to finish. It will be finished, I promise. Regards Henrik
  2. Welcome to MSW. You have had a clean good-looking start of a model not very common on MSW. I will be watching. Regards Henrik
  3. I really like the color variations and tone of the deck. Could you please explain to us all how you did proceed? Regards Henrik
  4. Hello my friends, Started second planking four weeks ago and have now finished starboard side. It is the most comprehensive second planking I ever have done before but I did it. I have done some sanding today but I have decided to leave the final touches to when port side is done. I had some problems with a couple of gun ports but on the other side I am confident that port side will be much better as the builder now has more experience 🙂. Most of the planks are fixed with a combination of CA and wood resin glue. I have a feeling that wood glue is more reliable but CA has its advantages when planks are to be set in curved positions. Looking at my pictures below make me realize that flaws which are barely visible to my eyes when I work on Aggy becomes very prominent with the Iphone camera. Is there a flaw filter I can use before publishing🙂? This makes me realize that when some of you, dear fellow builders, publish close up pictures without any apparent gaps, bumps and cracks, there are some very skilled builders at MSW. I lift my hat! Regards and stay safe Henrik
  5. Interesting kit you have found and welcome to MSW! Not that I really know what I am talking about but..... I would take a piece of scrap material from the same kit, a piece of runner for example and leave it for a couple of minutes in warm water. Start with 50 deg C (abut 120 F) and then try to form in a slightly different shape and leave it like that to cool down. Can you permanently change the shape of the runner? If not increase the temperature a little bit more etc. A totally (under 🙂) educated guess is that a temperature between 120 F and boiling point will be enough to soften the plastic enough to at least correct the worst warping. My feeling is that the temperature range between when the plastic becomes slightly softer and very soft is narrow so be careful in the beginning otherwise you may end up with a deck looking like the warped clocks in a Salvador Dali painting. Once you have found the correct temperature when the plastic in your kit starts to soften enough, try to only heat the warped section of the deck and not the rest thus preventing any "Dali" effects 🙂. Regards Henrik
  6. I use Admiralty Paints and ordered an "Agamemnon" set from Cornwall Model Boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/HMS-Victory-Paint-Set-APS9014W.html#SID=339. They have acrylic paint sets adopted for Caldercraft so there is a kit for Caldercraft's Victory also, which is a bigger ship than your Mamoli kit. The kit I am thinking of contains 10 colors in 14 jars. I do not if it is worth the money + shipping from Europe to US but the paint is good and diluted it can also be air brushed (I have tried, it worked). Regards Henrik
  7. Hi Trent, I did same as you. I glued the main wale and cut out the affected gun port openings with a new and sharp blade. The result was ok. I have considered pre-cutting on the port side but I do not think the accuracy will be better. An off-set of two or three tenth of a mm will be seen on a 1 mm rim anyhow. You will be there with the scalpel anyhow risking damaging the lining of the gun ports ☹️. A steady hand and very sharp blade will do it 🙂. The idea of cutting 12 cm planks was something that that was suggested to by ETNZ a couple of months ago. Thanks for the tip ETNZ. Regards Henrik
  8. First of all thanks for all likes. Started second planking this weekend. I use the method of planking from midship and outwards toward the bow and stern trying to be 2-3 rows of planks ahead at midship. By doing so I get a better feeling for the need for tapering towards bow and stern. All the work of getting av smooth surface from first planking is now paying dividend 🙂. Most the second planks are cut in 12 cm lengths which are glued with wood glue with two or three blobs of CA-glue. The only problem so far is a small tendency (very small) with a dimple just ahead of the first lower gun port. Regards Henrik
  9. Hello Rob, The most difficult part is often the bow. We average builders do not get the first planking of the bow to the standard where no or very little filler is needed. We others have dimples and ridges which need to be handled with a lots of filler 🙂. You ask when am I done? Personally I think that is a question of ambition (What is good enough for me?). The result of the second planking will be much better if you get the end result of the first including the filler work, smooth, but most of us have a limit. You are working on a challenging project where this question of what is good enough for me will pop up now and then. At the stage you are now Rob I think you should focus on the bow and get that area to a standard which is good enough for you. The rest of the hull will probably require less work to get to the same standard. Kind regards Henrik
  10. It has been a pleasure John following your build from start to end. Well done! I hope there will be a log of that build as well. Regards Henrik
  11. Hello Trent, Welcome to the Aggie-club. Your build looks great. It feels good to have someone at MSW who is about at the stage as I am. I hope to start with the main wale this weekend. Regards Henrik
  12. It has been almost a month since last post of my out of the box Hood build. After some fixes to the seams on the barrels Tigerdvr observed I have added blast bags made from kitchen towel paper. And what is it on the gun tower? Graffiti? Regards, Henrik
  13. I have now done the lining and painting of the port side upper gun deck gun ports. When I initially cut out the upper gun deck ports I intentionally did them slightly smaller than what the drawings said. I then prepared a 18 pound gun with carriage to check the fit in each gun port before starting carving to correct size. I think have a problem with the fit of the upper gun deck below the fore castle which means that the first gun below the fore castle will be sitting on the deck without wheels but it does not matter. It will not be seen anyhow. Will hopefully continue with the starboard side today. Then it is time for main wale. By, the way Rob, on Thursday I ordered a used copy of "Nelson´s favourite" by Anthony Deane from a British antiquarian. Promised arrival late May or early June. Kind regards, Henrik
  14. Many thanks for likes and encouraging comments, especially to Rob for the book recommendation. I do not have the book. I will definitely try to get hold of it. The quarter galleries are now finished and I am now doing of the upper gun deck gun ports. I hope to post some pictures later this coming weekend. I was a bit worried about the quarter galleries but it all went together very well. As the instructions for the quarter galleries assembly say: " Time, patience and care are the key words for assembling these parts." To anyone interested building Caldercraft´s Agamemnon, I say build it! It is a huge project but the quality of the model is the best I have seen. It is very well designed. Regards, Henrik
  15. That could be a way to do it. And Rob, the best thing with that approach is that there is nothing preventing you from doing the masts and rigging at a later stage 🙂. Thanks for posting. I am watching. Regards Henrik

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