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Henke

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    Norrkoping, Sweden

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  1. I think the bow/arc is caused by too much tension in the crowsfeet in relation to the tension in forestay preventer attaching to the fore mast. Maybe it is difficult release tension in crowsfeet but when the main top mast stay is in place it will pull the foremast backwards. What if you pull the foremast back below the trestle tree? Does the bow/arc improve? We want a nice tension in the crowsfeet without any sagging but the angle/bend of the forestay preventer should be small compared to the angle between crowsfeet and forestay preventer. If we look at this as a mechanic problem there are three forces which act on the point where the crowsfeet connect to the forestay preventer. Fa is the force in the forestay preventer towards the bowsprit, Fb the force in the upper part of the forestay preventer stay connecting to the foremast and Fc which is the force in the crowsfeet. What we want is an angle alpha much smaller than the angle beta. The only forces which act in the y-direction are Fb and Fc. Applying Newton's first law one can prove that Fc/Fb=sin (alpha)/sin (beta) I would try to increase Fb (tension in the forestay preventer attaching to the foremast). I hope I have not been too long-winded. The NRG motto is "Advancing Ship Modeling Through Research" 🙂. Thanks Ian for posting. This will help me when I eventually reach rigging of my Agamemnon. Regards Henrik
  2. Hi Ian, This looks really good. Could you please post a close-up picture of the fixing of the crowsfeet the fore preventer stay? In Allan Sandercott's build log http://www.sandercott.ca/modelships/agamemnon/agamemnon_build_page7.php there is a picture of the crowsfeet attachment to the preventer stay. Is it possible to create a little bit more tension in the preventer stay by applying a bit more pulling force from the upper end of the preventer stay? The "arc/bow" is created too little force taken by the preventer stay above where the crowsfeet are attached too the preventer stay compared to what is taken through the crowsfeet. If you can achieve this the tensile force elongation in the upper part of the preventer stay above the the crowsfeet attachment will take off force from the crowsfeet. This was difficult to explain. I will try make an illustration. I will come back on this. I have to go to work now ☹️. Regards Henrik
  3. Jörgen, you have a fantastic attention for details. It is really inspiring to see! Regards Henrik
  4. Thanks for the information Robert. 1:48 may explain my question about the tapering of planks towards the stern. May I suggest, and this is sounding as if I am a moderator of this forum, which I am not 🙂, that you to your title of the log add manufacturer and scale (although it is not mandatory) according to: How to Name your build log? We have a "Build Log Naming Convention" to enable the Search Engine to sort them Alphabetically by "Ship's Name" and/or "Builder's Name". We urge you to follow the guidelines below to make this work properly. If you don't, a Moderator will do it for you anyway - so you may as well get it right first time and save us the trouble. To Edit your Build Log Title - simply go to the FIRST post of your Build Log and click on the Edit button in the bottom-right corner. The Title Box is at the top in the Edit Box. This is how your Build Log Title must be set up for Static Wooden Ship Kits : HMS Victory by Fred Bloggs - Caldercraft - Scale 1:75 - 1805 as she appeared after Trafalgar - First wooden ship build The first section in RED is MANDATORY and must be done EXACTLY as shown to enable correct Sorting by the Search facility. Use your Username exactly as it is registered. Note there are SPACES either side of the dash following your Username. I am now a follower of your log (don't feel the pressure). Remember that we are very friendly and positive at MSW. Questions can be asked and advice will be given. Hang on now Robert! Kind regards Henrik
  5. Welcome to MSW Robert1377. What is the scale and which manufacturer has done the model? Regards Henrik
  6. Well done and thanks for posting such nice pictures. This will be interesting! Once again I notice that first planking can be done in different ways and work fine anyhow. I am building Caldercraft´s Agamemnon which is slightly bigger boat than Bounty. Instruction stated that planking should start from main deck and downwards, an instruction which I followed. When planking turned around onto the underside of the transom planks had to tapered quite severely, one thing which also drawings pointed out. Looking at the last picture from your latest post you do not seem to have done any tapering of the planks in towards the stern. Could it be because you started from below and worked yourself upwards? When my downwards planking reached the upper end of the stern post I started planking from the keel and then closed up the hull. What does your the instructions say? Anyhow, it looks very good. I think you did a good job with bow also although I think filler blocks at least in front the first bulkhead would have helped. Regards Henrik
  7. Samuel, I use matt polyurethane varnish. And Samuel, remember that you can use your build log to ask for advice as you just did. MSW is a very friendly forum. Regards Henrik
  8. Hi Christian, Thanks for the comment regarding ruler or coin but I then need a long ruler or big coins 🙂 (at least in her present stage). Aggy's hull is about 90-95 cm equivalent of the average length of a three year old child 👩‍🚀. Then to the question about reference literature and drawings. I actually spent some time this very weekend searching the internet looking for reference literature but I did not find anything particular on Agamemnon. I found books about HMS Victory (of course) but also HMS Diana but nothing on Aggy. I therefore raise the question if there are any knowledgeable people on MSW who could suggest suitable reference literature for my Agamemnon build? Aggy with reference object (1 liter) Kind regards Henrik
  9. Just a short posting from captain Slow 🙂. The shipyard activity has been low the last couple of weeks due to summer vacation with my family. First planking on on port side is almost finished and starboard (not show on this picture) is done 2/3. Regards Henrik
  10. How could I miss your build log? Such beautiful planking! My eyes get wet when I see your planking 🙂. Is it a single or double planking hull? Now you have another follower. Kind regards Henrik
  11. Hi David, Thanks for sharing. It gives ideas for the future coppering of my Agamemnon, which in my slow building tempo probably will not take place in a year's time. From the pictures, I agree that the coppering side starting from waterline looks better but perhaps it is because your coppering skills has improved after practicing many hundreds of plates later? What if you had started the second band earlier on the first side you did (5-8 rows of copper plates closer to the keel than you did)? This approach may have required a third band but the passage between the bands would perhaps be more harmonic. I do not know which method is the most accurate to Cutty Sark's actual or original coppering but maybe someone else at MSW knows? Anyhow, your model looks great and I follow your build with great interest. Thanks once again for sharing, David! Regards Henrik
  12. This will be interesting Vince. I will take a seat and watch with interest. Good luck and let's hope it will be a happy ship. Regards Henrik
  13. Hi Eric, Thanks for the tip regarding second planking with rather short strips. I will try that and I hope your medical issue with your hands will be better so that I can follow the progress of your build. From your pictures it looks as if you are a year ahead of me (at least). Regards Henrik
  14. No coppering for me yet ETNZ but hopefully I can start second planking soon. I am a slow builder but my summer holiday starts on Friday. Unfortunately the Admiral has ordered me to do some holiday travelling with her and the navy cadets so dry dock activity will probably be low for the coming weeks. Regards Henrik
  15. It looks great and far more exiting than watching paint dry . Well done! Regards Henrik

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