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    Norrkoping, Sweden

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  1. Some pictures of the last months efforts. Mighty Hood on the cutting mat sea 🙂. Prince of Wales and a Panzerkampfwagen IV watch on in the background. Regards Henrik The table is a bit messy
  2. Thanks for posting Rob and having such a nice build log. I follow your work with interest. These "loose" Mamoli gun ports are different compared to my Agamemnon build where each gun port is cut out by hand after first planking and after that lined with balsa tube. I do not know which is best and it does not matter. Stay healthy Rob. Regards Henrik
  3. And welcome although we already have been contact. MSW is a very friendly community. Cheers Henrik
  4. Hi all, I have a question. Lower gun deck ports on starboard are soon lined as well but there is one thing which I am a little puzzled about. Instructions says "the gun ports without lids can be framed using 1x10 mm walnut strip". Looking at the drawing (sheet no 2) all gun ports except those without lids are framed. I think the information is slightly ambiguous 🙂. I intend to frame all gun ports regardless whether they have lids or not. Is there a reason not lining/framing all gun ports? Please give me advice. Regards Henrik
  5. Lining of gun port on lower gun deck on port side is done. Lining is done from a balsa tube (shown by other builders here at MSW) made from 1 mm balsa. It is a fast and simple method of lining the gun ports and ensures that each gun port gets the same size and correct rectangular shape. Regards Henrik
  6. I have to ask a question (Grandpa)Phil. Have the cannons been dry brushed with white or silver to give them a more vivid appearance? Kind regards Henrik
  7. I have now browsed around through other Agamemnon build logs and I now understand my mistake. I have now decided that Nelson have to climb through a window if he wants to drink his afternoon rum on the balcony 🙂. Another alternative is to paint something "door like". Anyhow, it is another stupid mistake of me. The drawings clearly indicates which bulwark patterns should be on which side.......☠️☠️☠️. Hopefully nobody at MSW has to do this mistake again. Thanks once again ETNZ for the notice. Regards Henrik
  8. Thanks for the comment ETNZ. I do not know for the moment if I will rectify my error. I will have a look how others have done and what the consequences will be if I leave the bulwark patterns as they are. Regards Henrik
  9. The varnish is probably OK as long as it is not too glossy. Make a little piece of "sample" deck sanded the same way and try the varnish as suggested by Wahka_est and use a good quality flat brush. If fibers start rise after the first application you may have to sand lightly and add another layer of varnish to get a smooth surface. Regards Henrik
  10. I have spent the weekend doing gun ports. Using the paper template was little bit scary. What if I cut out of alignment? But I have now cut out 52 gun ports and I think I got them where they should be. I think I deserve an extra ration of rum today 🙂! Gun ports opened on starboard and the port is blindfolded before surgery. Starboard finished! Regards Henrik
  11. My tedious sessions with filler and sanding is over now. What you lack in planking skills have to be compensated with filler and sanding 😓. This is how Aggy is looking for the moment. The build is going forward and I feel happy and almost proud 🙂. Regards Henrik
  12. The work on Hood is progressing but I have been slow on updates. I decided to follow Trumpeter's paint recommendations using Gunze Mr Hobby water based acrylic paint. I have not used them before and it is a positive experience. They work fantastic in the air brush (diluted of course) and are easy to paint with an ordinary paint brush. The recommended colors are a bit glossy as you can see from the first picture. The deck is airbrushed and the grey and rusty details are hand painted. I then used Tamiya panel line accent color (black) to get a little bit of the life in the deck caulking. After drying I wiped away most of the accent color with a bit of paper towel dampened in turpentine and airbrushed with matt varnish. The varnish tones down the appearance. Trumpeter's 1:350 Hood is a nice kit. It has its flaws but at least an amateur like me can live with it. I hope to be able to spend some time at ship yard this weekend building the super structure. Regards Henrik
  13. Hi ObviousNewbie, I am sorry. That greeting sounded condescending but it was unintentional 🙂. May I suggest that you use a water soluble aliphatic glue (water soluble before it has set) for the deck planking. You can then easily wipe off any excess glue with a wet cloth. Do the caulking before gluing using a pencil or a a black or dark grey pointed pen marker. Kind regards Henrik
  14. Tervetuloa (Welcome) Mikko, Can I encourage you to start a build log? You seem to have a good start. There are others building "Dragen" (The dragon in Danish). A build log can be useful when you get stuck with poor instruction etc. Regards Henrik
  15. Having finished my Prince of Wales (Tamiya 1:350) I am now starting a new project. In the end of my previous build log Canute recommended Trumpeters 1:350 Hood. Thanks Canute. I have now bought that kit from my local supplier. The kit looks very nice. I think this is the first MSW build log of a Trumpeter Hood 1:350. As you can see on the box it is a long ship (75 cm) which is about 10 cm longer than Prince of Wales, i.e. 35 m in real life. Commissioned in 1920, as the last battle cruiser for the Royal Navy, the profile looks differently compared to other large WW2 ships. The mighty Hood as she was called was in service between 1920-1941 as she was sunk by Bismarck. The kit can be built as a water line model as well as a full hull. I think my Hood will be a waterline version. I have not tried that before. Maybe a diorama...... I now some pictures. Regards Henrik

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