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Cleat

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Everything posted by Cleat

  1. Cleat
    A spice container has the right diameter to bend the spiral staircase railing. I also bent a piece of mahogany I plan to use as an accent for the railing. Just before I was about to bend the second railing, I remembered to consider the direction of the bend which would be opposite the first piece. I discovered the first railing I bent didn’t turn out as expected, I got the diameter close but I didn’t consider the height the bend needed. The second piece turned out better. I might have to re-bend the first one (but I'm not sure if the wood can be re-bent). It looks like the railing is longer than the stairway and I'm not sure how it is supposed to work (what is the pointed end of the piece for).
  2. Cleat
    The seams connecting the curved end pieces were not good enough so I cut out the bad work to install a new plank, it worked out better but not totally clean. I started the spiral stairways. I set a marker to 2mm and scored the stairs to help align each step. I almost forgot to reverse the rotation for the second stairway. I noticed the pie shaped pieces are not symmetrical, the short side isn’t as long as the straight pieces so I used the longer side as shown. I used the pole to help register each pie shaped step. I don't know how close I got the the 90 degree turn. I put the third deck on the structure to determine how I might apply the herringbone plank pattern and I noticed that holes don’t line up between the two decks. I’m wondering if I should not have opened the holes on the second deck. I don’t know what the holes are for.
  3. Cleat
    I'm about to clean some of the metal parts for my King of the Mississippi riverboat. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and degreaser. I'm wondering if diluted degreaser is the right solution for the job. I'm also trying to decide if I should use automotive primer or a water based primer; I'll be applying acrylic paint with an airbrush (and details with an artist brush).
  4. Cleat
    Hind-Sight Tip I didn’t soak the wood long enough for bending; I cracked one piece and broke the other when I formed and clamped them into shape. I fixed it: Next up is to apply primer to the gray metal parts. I’m trying to decide what shade of brown to make for the windows, doors, and shutters. I’ll be using acrylic paint with an airbrush). I’m also trying to figure out how to apply color the window panes and the indentations of the shutters.
  5. Cleat
    My King of the Mississippi project went on hiatus last spring; my workbench is shared with other hobbies as I transitioned to the garage season. Model ship building is one of my winter hobbies. I’m picking up where I left off (including making mistakes). I built the state room compartment and I didn’t pay attention to what I was doing. I installed one of the round end sections upside down. I managed to dissolve the glue with isopropyl alcohol without damaging anything. But re-glueing it wasn’t as clean as I wanted. I’ve started my process of sanding and leaving the saw dust in place, then I apply some finish and use wet/dry sandpaper to create a slurry to fill any gaps. After two or three applications things will be smooth.
  6. Cleat
    Item 59 – where are you? Item 59 is the bar supports for the open area and they are not included in the kit, you have to manufacture 8 of them. I scanned the picture of the piece, traced it in a drawing program and scaled it for an 8 mm height. The parts list identifies the part as a 5 x 8 mm piece but when I measured the tracing it was smaller; it was too delicate to make for my skills so I stretched the tracing to match the part list dimension. These are the dimensions I came up with (all dimensions are in mm): I printed out several copies of the part and glued a strip to walnut scrap from the paddle wheel brace parts. Three of the four pieces turned out so I made a bunch more using up the scrap. I cut the closing bars to the size identified in the parts list which is precisely the distance for the bar supports. To make the bars cross like the picture you need to cut a longer piece (90 mm). I also made a little piece to cover the hole from the tab for the forward structure. I attached the paddle wheel supports. I started to work on the floor of the second deck.
  7. Cleat
    The bow strip was a challenge. I soaked the walnut piece for 30-45 minutes. My plan was to do two soakings, one to set the general arc, the other to set the final contour. I was wondering how I could clamp it in place. I managed to get the clamp to sort of trap the piece in position. I let the half circle dry overnight. I used the plywood scrap from where the deck was removed as a template for the second soak. I had a hard time gluing the piece to the front of the deck. Between trying to get the clamp to work on a non-flat surface and the wet glue causing the piece to move around. Once the glue got tacky I could set it in place and use the palms of my hands to clamp the piece in place (for about 3-4 songs). I drilled the holes with a 2 mm bit, then with a 2.5 mm bit. I realized I glued the piece in crooked. I debated about trying to unglue it, but I don’t have a lot of experience un-gluing stuff (mixed results) and I was concerned I’d loosen other pieces or break the piece. I chose to let it be.
  8. Cleat
    I worked on the doors. I discovered there are two sizes of the rectangular doors. I tried to stain the plywood doors but I didn’t like the results. I applied deck planking to the doors but I didn’t like how that was working out either. I picked up a 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) piece of birch plywood at Menards (they have a hobby wood section). I finished the birch with a sealer, nutmeg stain, and many thin coats of finish. I glued the doors to the back of the birch plywood. I drilled holes to define the corners of the windows (smaller holes work better). I got a couple divots when while processing the doors. I found a piece of nylon screen (from a window screen patch kit) and glued them to the back of the doors for the windows. I drilled holes for the eyebolts with a pin vice. I put a ring on the eyebolt with a dot of glue on the tip and pushed them in, I bent the pins over because the pins weren't a little loose. I glued a brace (kit scrap) on the back of each door and glued the assembly in the doorways. I planned on gluing the double doors in place. I couldn’t figure out how the brass hinge pieces worked until I looked at other logs to see how the hinge should work. They are folded over to make a hoop of the narrow section, each hinge is two pieces with a pin through the hoops. My skill with tiny components isn’t very good so I decided to make it less complicated and apply a single brass piece as a decorative hinge.
  9. Cleat
    Building the ventilation windows was an interesting job. I finally got to use the x-axis part of my drill press. I bought the Vanda-Lay Acra Mill about a year ago and so far I’ve mostly used it as a fixed platform for my Dremel tool. I made a drill press table with clamps (not knowing how I’d actually use the x-axis part). My clamps worked – barely (I already have a new design in mind). Since I had to clamp the work piece, I could only use a portion of the x-axis travel so I had to reverse the piece to continue the drill spacing. I glued each ventilation window frame together to ensure my drilling aligned the top and bottom beams of the frame. I made a couple mistakes when I had to reverse the piece to complete the drilling, it took me a couple tries to figure out my process.
  10. Cleat
    I like your idea to skin the doors. I was looking at your build and noticed you did some raised panels which is giving me some ideas to try.
  11. Cleat
    I’m working on the doors. I used a nutmeg stain on the traditional doors but the stain was absorbed unevenly (I should have used a pre stain). I’ve been playing around with the color and I’m not happy with my results so far. I don’t think I can get an even tone, I might have to paint the doors a sold color. I noticed the instructions show a pattern on the window, I wonder how they did that. I found an aluminum piece from a small hole patch kit that has a pattern that might work for me (I haven't decided whether to paint it or leave it shinny). I’m wondering if I should mount it on the back of the door (easy) or try to fit it in the opening (hard) and if should I use the clear plastic for the window. The double doors are undersized, I can add another set of door frame material for a nice fit. I
  12. Cleat
    After cutting a couple hundred planks for the first deck and structures I decided to get a Chop-It tool. I tried it out making planks for the second deck. The tool makes cutting planks much easier than the small miter I was using. I have four 31 mm rows so I made the calculation to determine that a 45 mm length would work. I test fitted several pieces to see how it would work out. It was fairly tight but it looked like 45 mm pieces would work. But when I glued the first pieces in each row, I realized I didn’t center the first pieces exactly on the deck. OOOPS I noticed some tiny gaps as I was gluing the planks and wondered how the error would add up. That’s when I noticed that my alignment was drifting to one side, one side wasn’t clearing the edge of the deck. I couldn’t figure out how to correct it without making the change obvious so I finished the planking of three rows. My rows drifted about 5 mm for the length of the deck. I cut some longer planks to finish the last row. Hindsight Tip I calculated the length of the planks precisely based on my measurements but I didn’t give myself much of a margin for error. I should have made my planks closer to 50 mm.
  13. Cleat
    Thanks Bob, Your technique worked out pretty well for me. My pieces don't have a consistent width and others not parallel (I'm still getting used to working with small pieces). For the curve, I used a needle file to make the inside arc with mixed results and used the overhang technique for the outside arc. Overall I'm happy to have a result and I learned a new technique. I also noticed that sapelli wood has different grain patterns on each side, most of the door frame pieces show the good side (something I'll pay more attention too when using it).
  14. Cleat
    I'm scoping out how to make the doors. The instructions call for the planking and trim wood with the stock sizes of the kit but the pictures look like the wood used is about half the width of the wood included with the kit. I tried cutting a piece of scrap but I don't know how to make uniform pieces (as shown in the right door). The left door shows the stock wood width.
  15. Cleat
    I'm making progress. I've assembled the first deck structures and planked the exterior. I've noticed in other builds that the vertical lines of the planks are highlighted, I'm wondering how they did that (and whether I want to do it). I also wonder what I want to do about the empty tab slot of the forward structure. I've added the structure corner accents and a light coat of wipe on finish.
  16. Cleat
    I forgot about the large drawing, it is folded up because I don't have anywhere to display it. It is a pretty detailed drawing (I need to remember to reference it more). I test fit the second deck to see which tabs work.
  17. Cleat
    I'm learning how to air brush. I spent $90 for an airbrush, $100 for a compressor (with tank), and $25 for a 6-pack of paint and cleaning fluid. It takes a lot of time to learn and there are a number of variables to figure out. It takes time to clean which is a chore. I'm still getting used to it; I've only mastered full on and I'm still practicing the art of small finger movements to adjust the amount of paint. I use my airbrush more like a can of spray paint. I decided to get an airbrush with a pistol style trigger because I prefer that feel over the top button. I'm getting a lot of practice cleaning the airbrush and I still practice dots and daggers (beginner exercises). I see how useful an airbrush can be but it is a skill that takes a lot of time to learn. While I'm learning I have gotten good results on projects that didn't require precision.
  18. Cleat
    Bummer When I test fitted the first room structure, I discovered what Jeff5115 identified. One of deck slots doesn’t align with a structure tab. I did the other structure and it has the same problem. It is another challenge to solve. Hindsight Tip Construct a structure before cutting the deck slots to determine if the slots match the tabs.
  19. Cleat
    I don't know how the shingling happened when I glued the hull planks: I managed to sand through the edges without going through the thin planks.
  20. Cleat
    I finished the hull with Minwax Wipe-On Poly (clear/satin). I finished the deck with Watco tung oil thinned with mineral spirits (50/50). I wanted the deck to look more polished than the hull.
  21. Cleat
    I sanded the deck and hull and left the saw dust on the pieces. I applied some finish and used wet/dry sandpaper to create a slurry to fill gaps and openings in the grain. Before: After:
  22. Cleat
    Hindsight Tip The gap on the #8 frame from my clamping mistake turned into a gap when planking the hull, adding ax extra plank turned into a new problem. When I tried trimming the plank, it broke and separated which required blending a smaller piece into the hull.
  23. Cleat
    I'm fine tuning the sternpost. I filed the sternpost a bit and I filed out a channel for it. I'm off center on the bottom of the hull but I registered my contact patch by filing the V of the bow bulkheads. I'll square up the channel and fine tune it.
  24. Cleat
    I started to plank the hull but I didn’t like how my process to apply a thin layer of glue worked. I decided to plank the deck to work out my gluing technique. I set up a jig and cut the 10 cm planks; I cut 26 plank strips, I got 5 planks and 1 slightly shorter plank from each 60 cm plank (I kept the last pieces separate and used them for short sections). I like using the Rockler silicone gluing tools, one of the applicators worked well applying a thin coat of glue.
  25. Cleat
    I sanded the bulkheads and the bottom board to the same angle around the bow to achieve the best contact surface but I didn’t check the other bulkheads of the hull which created a few small gaps. I used some scrap from the laser cut panels to reinforce some of the bulkheads.

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