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Cleat

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Everything posted by Cleat

  1. Cleat
    I place the pieces that make the spine of the kit on the print to check the fit. Once things fit I glued the pieces directly on the print. I placed a piece of the planking material on the edge of the keel to mark the width of the rabbet, I also did it on the keelson. I told myself to cut up to the line. I tried several methods to cut the rabbet with poor results, I ended up sanding the material along the straight bottom section, I carved the bow section. When I was done my marks were gone – I made the rabbet much wider than it should be. (I’m still getting used to working with such small material).
  2. Cleat
    While building my first boat kit (Chris-Craft) I had a hard time doing the planking, I discovered that a straight plank did some unexpected things at the bow of the boat. I was frustrated and knew I’d have to figure out planking. I came across the Half Hull Planking kit when searching the forum for planking information. I previewed the instructions and realized I didn’t know the terminology. The instructions identify the names of the laser cut parts but there were a number of terms in the documentation that I didn’t know. I found an illustrated glossary of ship terms (it is helpful): https://www.oxfordhandbooks.com/view/10.1093/oxfordhb/9780199336005.001.0001/oxfordhb-9780199336005-e-48 I previewed builds by tlevine, dcicero, modeler masa, and LyleK1 and I’ve been referencing those builds during my build. The kit comes with laser cut pieces to build the frame structure and planking material you cut for each plank. The instructions are a PDF file; the instructions are well written and explain concepts to understand how wooden ships are built. The kit includes an 11x17” print that shows the location of the structural parts along with other significant lines. I mounted the print on a piece of art board but I quickly discovered that I wanted to cut the size down to accommodate the use of clamps during parts of the construction.
  3. Cleat
    I have the Proxxon vise with the table clamp and I really like it, the ball clamp lets you adjust the position of the jaws. I removed the table clamp (it slides out from the base) and mounted it directly to my workbench (it has holes to mount it with screws).
  4. Cleat
    Thanks for the pictures. I've started my Half Hull project and was wondering how the transom was orientated and I noticed it in one of your pictures.
  5. Cleat
    I'm about to start the Half Hull project kit. But the first thing I came across reading the instructions is that I don't know the terminology such as keelson, sternpost, etc. Is there a place I can find a list of ship terminology?
  6. Cleat
    I set the compressor to 30-40 psi and use a MACvalve at the airbrush to lower the pressure to what works the best. The MACvalve (the section with the round knob) is connected to air input of the airbrush and it makes it easier to adjust the air pressure. (I'm a woodworker and made a stand for the airbrush). I picture is small parts I painted chrome with the airbrush.
  7. Cleat
    I have recently started learning the airbrush. I got a Badger Patriot 105 (inexpensive, quality starter airbrush – it has a large nozzle which is easier to handle), a California Air 1P1060S compressor (inexpensive and quiet), a six pack of Createx acrylic paint (different colors to mix for any color), and some auxiliary parts (cleaning tools, cleaning pot, MAC valve, color wheel.). I modified the air compressor; I added a manifold with a moisture trap and more accurate gauge for the airbrush operating pressure range (less than the compressor output). So far, I’ve mastered full on (which is useful for what I’m doing now), I need to practice control exercises to figure out the double action. I’m getting more comfortable cleaning the airbrush – it is the first thing I learned. I’ve been learning to thin and mix paint colors and figure out an ideal air pressure. I’m at the stage where I need practice; mix colors, paint practice lines & dots, clean – repeat. I bought a Mississippi river boat kit for my winter project and plan on using the airbrush for painting; I need to decide what colors I want for the river boat (and practice using the airbrush).
  8. Cleat
    I recently started to learn the airbrush, I got a Badger Patriot 105 ($75), a California Air 1P1060 compressor ($100), plus $25 for a 6-pack of paint. I'm no expert but from my research this is a decent basic system. So far I've mastered full on (like a spray can); I'm doing some line exercises to learn finer control.
  9. Cleat
    Thank you for the comments. I work towards perfection but fortunately I'm not a perfectionist. I recognize my skill level and eventually say it's good enough. I'm happy with the experience and I'll do it again.
  10. Cleat
    Working with the small parts was hard, I'm not accustomed to working with small parts and I haven't mastered using tweezers yet. The windshield was a bear to do and I'm not very happy with the way it turned out. The real boat has an odd bulbous feature on the bow which I tried to replicate but failed. I wanted the base to emulate a wake, I cut two pieces of oak at an angle and glued them together. I got frustrated several times during this build but I decided to see it through, I wanted to know if I could build it and to what level of quality I'm at (I need improvement). I misplaced the flag staffs, the bow light doesn't have a hole for a shaft, I found a piece of the material so I'll add a flag staff to the rear. My next kit will be the Planking kit I've seen in this forum. I am trying to decide what kind of kit I want to try after that.
  11. Cleat
    This is what I made.
  12. Cleat
    This is what a real boat looks like.
  13. Cleat
    This is what the box shows what can be made.
  14. Cleat
    I'm glad I came across this log. I was frustrated with planking during my first build. I found a reference to the kit and I'm considering it for my second build. I'll be referencing your build.
  15. Cleat
    I painted the water line red and the rub rail bumpers chrome. Masking the areas was trickier than I expected. I repainted the water line three times and it got kinda thick. I also painted the bright parts but I haven't mounted them yet. I used the mirror chrome that usedtosail recommended and that stuff looks pretty good. I haven't figured out how to deal with the chrome trim decal for the windshield. The decal is gray, I'm considering painting it chrome but I don't see how I can work with it I paint it. I might look into foil. I forgot the foot steps for the deck so I have to work those too.
  16. Cleat
    After my first experience planking I decided my next kit will be chosen to work on planking. Do you have a recommendation for a kit to help me learn planking?
  17. Cleat
    Tru Oil is used on gun stocks and knife handles. I used it on a couple of fish filet knife kits and I'm working on an Ulu knife. (In the picture you can see that I collected the saw dust on the instructions which I used to make a slurry to fill gaps).
  18. Cleat
    I installed the rub rails, bumpers, and coning; it was messy. Mistake # 7 I didn’t read the manual. The step describing the application of the half round styrene rod material should be done before finishing the wood. I didn’t do that. After making a CA glue mess on the finish and my fingers I sanded down to wood to apply the half round styrene rod material. I use CA glue to finish wood when turning pens; CA glue doesn’t stick to the pen part bags so I used a couple bags to help position the material before I hit it with accelerator to instantly cure the glue. Once I came up with a better process, I managed to glue the rub rail on the edge of the deck and the bumpers. The perfectionist in me wasn’t happy with parts of the job but the practical side said it was good enough. I’m not willing to try to fix my mistakes because I might make it worse (which is what I should do for the learning experience) but I don’t want to spend unlimited time on the task. The instructions say to install the cockpit coning on top of the deck. The real boat has it on the inside edge and I decided to give it a try. I used a hair dryer to see if the coning would take the inside turn, it worked. Next up is to paint the rub rail and bumper chrome and paint the cockpit coning the seat color. I’m trying to decide if I want to paint the bottom. All of the real boats have the bottoms painted (I assume for water protection reasons) and the color is mostly copper but some use the color of the interior. I’m also trying to determine what color to paint the water line. White is the most popular but the interior color is used sometimes; I'm considering red if I don’t paint the bottom.
  19. Cleat
    The copper foil looks good. Where do you get it?
  20. Cleat
    I've started to learn the air brush with a Badger Patriot, California Air compressor, and Createx paint. I'm also looking into a spray booth. I came across a video of a Master B400 portable spray booth. It is self contained and folds up for compact storage.
  21. Cleat
    It turned out nice. I like the detail of the the foot steps. What did you use for the case, and how did you cut it?
  22. Cleat
    It looks great with the various hardware fittings installed. Kinda like jewelry for a Chris-Caft.
  23. Cleat

    I started a Chris-Craft 1956 Capri build log.  You mentioned you'd be interested in it.

    1. usedtosail

      usedtosail

      Great. I’ll check it out

  24. Cleat
    Thanks, I didn't notice the Edit button.
  25. Cleat
    I started my first build but I noticed when I copied my title the first letter was missing. Can I correct it or does it take an administrator.

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