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Cleat

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Everything posted by Cleat

  1. Cleat
    Thanks, that is a good idea. I did that for the top of the posts to place the bead on top. I learned I couldn't center the hole with consistency and I think aligning a post pin, deck hole, and connect to the railing assembly might be too hard for my accuracy skill. But I think a hole in the post and the deck could create a pin when the glue cures (I'll try that the next time I knock one off).
  2. Cleat
    The company is Bridge City, this is a link to the plane: Adjustable Plane
  3. Cleat
    I played with the various curved railing pieces to find a way for the rear railings to work. I was wondering how to curve the brass railing pieces to match the wooden radius. My first attempt was the curved section on the forward short deck; I formed it to the wood piece, then bent the piece by hand to get it close to a fit (I wasn’t happy with the result). I used the railing jig I made and found it could help form the arch a little easier. I placed the curved wood railing with the straight metal piece in my jig; I pushed the straight metal piece to create an arc and used a piece of wood to help shape it. I used a Glue Looper to apply thin CA glue to each seem and sprayed the area with an activator to cure the connection. I added the second curved wood railing and glued it with the Glue Looper. I later added a short piece to the white railing to complete the assembly. One of the things I’m discovering is how light the wood glue bonds to the deck, my deck has many thin layers of finish making it a polished surface and it is only now that I realize I need to find a way to rough up the surface for a 3mm square post. I’ve knocked off many posts/rail assemblies via accidental touches (I swore each time).
  4. Cleat
    I played around with the curved pieces and found a combination that works for me. My kit included several curved pieces that aren’t called out in the manual. Item 234 is mostly straight with a little curve at one end. It looked like it might fit the forward end of the straight railings – and it does (I removed the railing I had installed). There are four pieces for two railing sections, I wish there were more for the same section in the lower deck. I’ll still have to figure out how to create longer brass railing sections (I painted white); I noticed the instructions don’t identify the curved brass railing section. The three bow brass railing sections will need to be created. For the stern I used the straight railings I removed from the bow and tested the fit with different curved sections. My custom stern railing doesn’t use any of the parts called out in the manual.
  5. Cleat
    When I scoped out the curved pieces at the front and rear decks, I discovered problems. The pieces that make the front railings are longer than the space available. You can see the last straight railing is too far forward which reduces the space for the curved pieces; it also cuts the corner a bit which probably caused the short space. Everything depended on where I aligned the first column on the main deck; I had cut out the second deck from the full scale drawing and laid it on the second deck to determine the column placement. I’m thinking I should shorten the forward straight railing to accommodate the curved pieces. I also noticed another problem with the length of the curved pieces, they are longer than the metal part of the railing. It looks like I’ll have to create a longer metal piece; I don’t know if glue will work and I’m wondering it solder might work. The rear of the deck also has a problem. The rear straight piece should be 45 mm but the metal railing in the kit is 35 mm (same problem as the front). I noticed other curved pieces (I don’t know what they are for) and laid them out to see how they might work but I need to figure out what they for (I can’t find item 192 in the manual).
  6. Cleat
    I have been working on the railings. I made more railing assemblies using my home-made jig. I installed the straight pieces. I discovered I need to determine how I want to modify things to finish the railings. I made all of the top deck railing posts. I drilled a .08 mm hole in one end of the posts and used thick CA glue to install a piece of solid electrical wire (20 AWG), then trimmed the length of the wire to fit in the bead. I quickly learned not to use tweezers on a small round piece when a bead took flight; I touched the trimmed wire in a puddle of thick CA glue and stabbed the hole in the bead with the wire and it sticks.
  7. Cleat
    I looked at many Mississippi build logs to get an idea how others made the railings, I estimated a range of railing heights. I measured the angle of the steps (60° from horizontal) and made a couple measurements on the full-scale drawing to create a stick drawing of the railing. (I’ve discovered the full-scale drawing varies a bit from what I build). I printed my template and tested the fit to determine changes; I used it as a guide to form a railing with a piece of the brass wire with pliers. I adjusted the brass wire test piece to best fit the stairway. I revised my drawing, test fit a new print, and used it to revise the brass test piece again. Repeat as needed. I considered how I was going to make six railings the same. I think the easiest way is to print a template and use pliers to form the wire to match the template. I decided to make this an opportunity to use (learn) my hobby CNC machine; I took the drawing and turned into a file to use a spindle router to route the pattern into a piece of wood. The jig was helpful but you still form the wire with pliers to match a template. I drill 1mm holes to anchor the top of the railing. I added dimensions to my template drawing: Check fitting the railings. I see the forward pair are a little low, I pushed the wire in too far and you can see it below the floor.
  8. Cleat
    The stairways were tricky for me. The stairway sections included in the kit are delicate and I broke pieces. Rather than glue the broken pieces together, I have an option to make pieces from scratch so I decided I could use the practice. I also ran out of step material and had to make more. I made a pair of step runners with my hobby cnc machine. It was a straight forward process and everything worked as expected, then I discovered I routed the step slots to the wrong angle. I corrected my drawing and that started a fiasco making a new stair runner file. I’m learning CAD/CAM/CNC processes and it took me time to troubleshoot my process. I eventually cut what I wanted – it was educational. Test fit. I broke the 1 mm bit that routed clean (broke it during troubleshooting - bummer), my other 1 mm bit was a different style and made a rougher cut (hard to clean). Aligning the steps and the runners was tricky because I had not been consistent where I cut the pieces to length; when the steps were aligned the runners were not. I had to file the ends of the runners to get them even. I added 2mm sepeli wood to the 3mm stair runners on the other stairways so I did the same with the short steps.
  9. Cleat
    I got a Bridge City mini block plane with depth skids (HP-8). It looks scrupled; the best part is that the sides can be adjusted to set the height of the plane. The plane is about 4” (100 mm) long, with a working width of 1.25” (33 mm). Recently, I was running out of 1 mm thick material for steps. I had 1.5 mm material so I set the mini plane to 1 mm height (using some 1 mm material) and planed the 1.5 mm material – it works fine. And it looks cool.
  10. Cleat
    I got a device to straighten the brass coil for the stairway railings, I’m working out how it works. I’m trying to determine measurements for the railings. I want to make a template to help the railings be consistent.
  11. Cleat
    I left off making steps but I ran out of 1mm wood. I picked up a bag of assorted hobby wood (basswood) at Menards and found pieces 1.5mm thick. I had picked up a cool little hand plane last winter where you can adjust the sides to set a height. It took three passes to get some 1mm wood (the tool works fine). I had a lot of breakage with the stair runners, I had to assemble pieces for some of the runners – that was tricky to try and align the stair supports. I stained the steps and added a trim piece on the runners (like I did on the spiral staircase). I realized I needed to make one more, short stairway – I might be able to kludge together another short stairway. But I’m thinking about plan B; I’ve been learning my CNC machine and I think I’ll try making a new piece (just to practice with the machine). I found the wheelhouse crest I lost last spring (it was surprising where the missing piece managed to hide). I installed the wheelhouse and remembered that I attached the rear door piece backward so the platform & stairway goes off the other side of the stateroom. I discovered the wheelhouse stairway is a couple steps taller that the deck stairs.
  12. Cleat
    I hadn't thought of adding figures to the model. What scale are they?
  13. Cleat
    Nice pictures. You get a pretty good depth of field.
  14. Cleat
    I noticed the knot you tied in the picture showing the side railings and I'm wondering how you tied that, what kind of knot is it. Your anchor looks like it is two knots (dark & light rope). I had strung the rope on my build last spring before my build went on hiatus, I'm not sure what type of knot to tie. (I hope to get back to my build in a couple weeks).
  15. Cleat
    I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.
  16. Cleat
    I bought a Createx 6-pack of basic colors because my local art supply shop carries the brand. With the 6-pack I can mix most any color I want (except brown - I haven't figured that one out). I mix small quantities of paint just to fill the airbrush bowl and I try to write down how many drops of each color I mix; I've discovered that I might need to mix the same color again if my first batch isn't enough or I have to touch up later.
  17. Cleat
    One of my hobbies is pen tuning. I discovered two new hobby knife kits. Both kits are available in chrome, gun metal, and brass. The classic hobby knife uses #11 X-ACTO blades. The bolt action hobby knife uses #65 Excel blades. The classic hobby knife has a cap covering the blade and the cap can be stowed on the rear post. The bolt action hobby knife extends and retracts the blade using a rifle style bolt lever. I got both kits from PSI (Penn State Industries).
  18. Cleat
    I'm learning the Genmistu 31018 Prover (has a laser and a router). The laser configuration is easier to learn. For the router, I've been trying several open source software (CAD/CAM/controller control). I got it to work but I still have stuff to learn. I started writing myself a manual to document how to do various procedures. Mine has a working area of about 6x10 inches (260x155 mm), I'd prefer a bigger working space but I have limited space and I think this setup is good for learning hobby CNC processes (Genmistu offers an expansion kit to make the 3018 into a 3040). I wrote controller manuals for industrial CNC machines so I know the basics and G-codes.
  19. Cleat
    I thinned it with mineral spirits. I cut up an old bed sheet into small pieces of cloth and used one to wipe the finish on; I apply several thin coats to build up the finish.
  20. Cleat
    I started with a Badger airbrush and a small California Air compressor (both are quality inexpensive products). I'm not an artist, I don't make fine lines. I want to paint stuff with a color I can mix, I use my airbrush more like a small spray can of paint. There is a learning curve to figure out air pressure, paint thinning, and cleaning the airbrush.
  21. Cleat
    I have the Rikon 10" bandsaw and I like it. I haven't had any problems with it and I've had mine for many years. I consider it a general purpose tool for a hobbyist. (I have several Rikon products). The fence is pretty basic, it works but I'd prefer something better. I use a magnetic fence now. And it doesn't do very well for resawing (you need to go real slow). I have a Jet mini wood lathe and I like it, but I had to replace the clamping disk for the tail stock.
  22. Cleat
    The ladders are tricky for me and I only made the short ones so far. I ran short of the step material so I need to find more. I like the dark wood trim detail around the stairway opening.
  23. Cleat
    Your build is looking great. What kind of glue did you use for the white railing installation. I like the brass railing on the short stairs, it is a nice addition. It looks like you pinned the 1st deck railings; I've been debating if I want 2 or 3 horizontal railings (yours looks good).
  24. Cleat
    Those speakers are an experiment. I have open baffle speakers (speakers on a board) in my garage and they sound good, they hang from the ceiling and need to be a couple feet from a wall to disperse the sound. But the desktop application sounds very bad. I'll try something out but I suspect I'll have to make boxes for better sound.
  25. Cleat
    Your build looks great. Your craftsmanship is impressive - it is a level I hope to achieve some day.

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